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Topic: AOD or C4 or C6 (Read 3649 times) previous topic - next topic

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #15
I am a C-4 guy all the way, Small Bulletproof design. have 2000 stall and freshly rebuilt for $450.00 at Local Trans shop here in Southern Alabama. I am running 3.55 locking Rear end. ..........I have heard the aod is pretty expensive to handle anything over 350 Horses.

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #16
what are the weights of the 4 different tannys we are talking about?
c4,c5,c6,t5?

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #17
Quote from: jcassity;191140
what are the weights of the 4 different tannys we are talking about?
c4,c5,c6,t5?


and does anyone know the HP lose threw all the tranys

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #18
Quote from: thunderjet302;190958
Neat :D . Any idea how much they cost now?


Bought mine used for 1500 w/stall converter, approx 1000 miles on it just a little age

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #19
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;190890
AOD all the way... Been beating on a 3.8 SC version for 7+ years... Other than a Trans-Go shift kit and hardened shaft, it's stock(never apart)... Yea it's due for a freshening up, but I been saying that for three years...


If you drive the car any distance there's no decision, AOD...



My AOD has 9+ years 60K+ and then some on stock internals with a TransGo and hardened input shaft.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #20
Quote from: V8Demon;191188
My AOD has 9+ years 60K+ and then some on stock internals with a TransGo and hardened input shaft.


The input shaft is the first thing to go on the AOD when it's in a high power application. Oh  I hope mine doesn't go out soon........:hick:
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #21
THe loss thur a C4 is approx 25%

 The AOD loss is approx 30%

 But the 40%dropi in RPM is worth it.

Just my 2cents




SCT Tuned by Me(Greg@SpeedyDyno.com)

E.T. 10.28 @ 136.5 MPH 1/4 mile: List of Mods; 351 EFI, AFR heads,AOD,Rousch 13in frt brakes,11in rear brakes, AirRide Tech air ride system, Sub frame connetors,2400 RPM stall, 3.50,BBK shorties,T62PT Turbos  air to air intercooled, Home built kit.
Car weights 3705lbs without driver:burnout:

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #22
Here's an interesting read on horsepower lost through a driveline:  http://www.superstang.com/horsepower.htm

Quote
What's the Loss?

When we began to contemplate flywheel horsepower figures for our different combinations, we bantered about some concepts that can be deceiving.  Most enthusiasts have been exposed to the idea that flywheel and rear-wheel horsepower can be equated by factoring in a given percentage for drivetrain loss - the drag that occurs from all the items between the flywheel and the rear tires.  You may have seen factors such as 15 percent for stick-shift cars and 25 percent for automatics, applied by dividing rear-wheel horsepower by either 0.85 for stick-shifts or 0.75 for automatics.

Now take a time-out and consider the following.  Our original baseline indicated 195 hp at the rear wheels, which when divided by 0.85 equates to 229 flywheel horsepower, and implies that the drivetrain is absorbing some 34 horsepower.  On the other hand, our combination of blower and traditional bolt-ons netted nearly 340 hp on the Blood Enterprises dyno, which when divided by 0.85, equates to 400 flywheel horses, and implication that the drivetrain is now absorbing 60 hp.

Nothing has changed between the flywheel and the rear wheels on our '93 LX, so does it make sense to figure the drivetrain is now absorbing nearly twice as much power?  Such a concept just doesn't jibe in our little brains, so we asked a couple of people in the biz what they thought.  Lee Bender of C&L Performance and Paul Svinicki of Paul's High Performance are both well versed in evaluating Mustangs on the dyno, and they both agreed that extrapolating drivertrain horsepower loss via percentages is flawed.  Lee believes that the stick Mustangs experience roughly a 35hp loss through the drivetrain, whether they make 200 hp or 400 hp.  He did explain that ultra-high-powered vehicles - typically race cars - can be and exception to this rule, but that's a topic for another time.  Interestingly, a 35hp loss for stick-shifted drivetrains is strikingly similar to the difference between Ford's horsepower ratings and the rear-wheel numbers we've observed on dynos across the nation.  Hmmm...


I'd always always heard an AOD was in the 20-25% area.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #23
do ant of you guys have a tranns brake? im thinking about buying a tranny with a tranns brake to give me better launches
1988 LX coupe. a dressed up motor with full exhaust and BBK shorties with flowmasters, BBK CAI, accufab 65mm tb, HO upper intake, cobra valve covers.

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #24
Quote from: quicksilver;192007
do ant of you guys have a tranns brake? im thinking about buying a tranny with a tranns brake to give me better launches


That's basically for the race track only... Unless you have slicks(and I don't mean the average Drag Radial), all you're gonna do is burn up a bunch of tires...

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #25
Quote from: quicksilver;192007
do ant of you guys have a tranns brake? im thinking about buying a tranny with a tranns brake to give me better launches


If you're going that route, you'd better think about having a custom driveshaft made, 31-spline axles, c-clip eliminators...and I would hope that you at least have a set of Chucks poly motor mounts.  You'll want to buy a set of control arms also.  Trans-brake really isn't worth it unless you're racing it regularly...competitively.
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #26
where is a good place i could buy 31 spline axles and c-clip eliminators?
1988 LX coupe. a dressed up motor with full exhaust and BBK shorties with flowmasters, BBK CAI, accufab 65mm tb, HO upper intake, cobra valve covers.

 

AOD or C4 or C6

Reply #27
Jeg's, Summit, many of the vendors listed in MM&FF also carry them...if you have a T/C rear, you may be screwed...I don't think they make c-clip eliminators to work on the 8.8 with disc brakes...if you still have the 7.5...well...throw that in the dumpster and find yourself a nice 8.8 with 10" drums from a fox body mustang...direct bolt in.

Good luck,
Don
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads