This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves

Topic: This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves (Read 3202 times) previous topic - next topic

This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves

Reply #15 – April 21, 2007, 02:22:43 PM

I don't know....it sure sounds like the stator problem I had. A stator is an electronic part inside the distributor. It's part of the mechanism that senses crankshaft position so the computer knows when to apply fuel and/or spark (it is NOT the TFI module on the outside of the distributor). I don't know if the stator is physically separate from the hall effect sensor or not, someone else here would have to answer that. I had the same issues with massaging the pedal, thought it was my transmission, but really the computer wasn't sending fuel and/or spark because the stator was cutting out and the computer was thinking that the crankshaft wasn't turning. When you let the car sit, heat drains away from the distributor and in my case that was what let the car run again after a while -- the stator had cooled. I had replaced everything else in the ignition system before a friend had suggested the stator to me, and that turned out to be it.

This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves

Reply #16 – April 21, 2007, 02:37:20 PM

I think you guys are both thinking my car is fuel injected. It's not. Doesn't have an EGR and the computer has nothing to do with the ignition.

This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves

Reply #17 – April 21, 2007, 05:36:12 PM

ah well, i guess i underestimated the 4 eyes... thats usually what causes those symptoms on my 87..

hell if it's not so complicated, just make sure everything that seals, SEALS. i doubt its the dist and such, like i said the stuff that makes my car do what your's is, is a vacspoogee leak... so if its high humidity that causes the car not to run right, and i suspect carburation? possibly your timing isnt perfect... i mean it runs GOOD on nice days? well from what i've learned, height from sea level, humidity, etc, on a full out motor is KEY to making the car run right. next time its at that special moment where it'll start and die, mess around with the timing and such. i mean you got a pretty badass setup, it kinda makes sense that the thing is finniky...

This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves

Reply #18 – April 22, 2007, 02:54:42 PM

Let's assume for a minute it is not electrical. Then we have to wonder if the fuel/air ratio is correct for the temperature of the engine.

I had a 61 Ford Anglia that was a great little warm weather car. But in the winter, especially when I had it up in NY State for a couple of winters, it was a dog. At 0 degrees F it would not start. Running at highway speed between 0 and 25 degrees it would cool down so much I would have to pull the choke out (manual choke) to keep it running.

I think either too rich or too lean could cause your problem.
Do you have a hot enough thermostat and is it working?

Have you looked at the choke when it stalls? open, closed, in between?

I believe your original choke was heated by warm air piped through the exhaust manifold. Some chokes are warmed by an electric heater powered by the stator voltage from the alternator.
I don't know what your choke situation is.

Your original air cleaner had a temperature controled door to let in either outside air or air warmed by the exhaust manifold.

There is usualy some method of warming the under side of the carb.
Like exhaust gas routed through a chamber in the intake manifold under the carb. This would be controlled by a valve to shut off the exhaust gas when the engine is hot enough.
You may have had an EGR spacer under the carb with engine coolent running through it. Not sure if that is to cool the exhaust gas or warm the carb. Maybe both.

Just a lot of rambling thoughts.

This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves

Reply #19 – April 22, 2007, 05:11:43 PM

Well granted the car was running much cooler than normal out on the highway. There's no thermostat in the dash but the one in my rad cap read only 60 degrees. Normally reads 180 and I tend to assume the engine's thermostat had closed since it's rated for 192 so I don't really know what the temp was. Currently there's no means for temp control in my engine, and the choke is a Holley electric version. But I tend to think temp isn't really the deciding factor because I finnished the drive home today and it wasn't any warmer but it had finally stopped raining and the car had no trouble.

This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves

Reply #20 – April 22, 2007, 09:03:27 PM

Quote from: sum_weirdo;142083

Well granted the car was running much cooler than normal out on the highway. There's no thermostat in the dash but the one in my rad cap read only 60 degrees.

The last time I saw a temp. gauge in the radiator cap was on a 20's vintage car with the cap at the front of the hood with a thermometer built into it. You could look at it through the windshield.

Quote

Normally reads 180 and I tend to assume the engine's thermostat had closed since it's rated for 192 so I don't really know what the temp was.

Maybe you should consider installing a temp. gauge sensor in the intake manifold.

Quote

Currently there's no means for temp control in my engine, and the choke is a Holley electric version.

The thermostat and the radiator are the temp. control.

Quote

But I tend to think temp isn't really the deciding factor because I finnished the drive home today and it wasn't any warmer but it had finally stopped raining and the car had no trouble.

I would think water evaporating off the radiator and other engine parts would drive the temp. down farther than air alone.

But you are right, it probably is electrical, this is just something else to keep in the back of your mind.

This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves

Reply #21 – April 23, 2007, 12:30:44 AM

I bought that rad cap in a performance shop one day when I felt like blowing some money. There is a temp sensor in the manifold but it just connects to an idiot light in the dash. Actually pretty much every sensor just leads to the same check engine light. Probably saved Ford some money at the time. When I said there's no temp control I meant for the carburetor itself. The warm air intake system isn't connected, it never seemed to make a difference, not to mention it stayed on way more than I thought it should. There's an old connector in the harness that my coil wire routes through, that's the wire I use to trigger my HEI ignition. I'm gonna try taping that up or something and see if that's it.

This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves

Reply #22 – April 23, 2007, 10:41:33 PM

Yeah, my 84 has the red "Engine Light" which indicates the coolent is too hot or the oil pressure is too low. Take your pick.
No way to know if its running too cool.

This stall problem is seriously getting on my nerves

Reply #23 – April 25, 2007, 08:18:00 AM

you said that it was chugging black smoke the last time it acted up?
If I understand you right the choke coil isn't hooked up. If you have a holley you can put an electric choke on easily. sounds like your choke plate is closing and making your motor pig rich.

louie