Skip to main content
Topic: ed ATC Error Code (Read 1183 times) previous topic - next topic

ed ATC Error Code

Good morning everyone!  I'm getting ATC error code #2: Floor/Panel actuator out of position.

What's the fix for this?

Thanks!

Chris
"I put my foot in my tank and I began to roll." Chuck Berry

ed ATC Error Code

Reply #1
I had that one as well for about 4 months back in 2002. It didn't hurt the performance of the heat any. Whatever it was, it fixed itself because I haven't had it since.

The ford dealer couldn't even give me any input.


 

ed ATC Error Code

Reply #3
man chris i wish there was a way to scan this whole shop manual,,,

ATC Codes
possible of codes 1-15, code 88 is system passes test

Code trouble code 2 displayed
**assume first off that your Floor Panel is jammed with debris from buildup ect which may prevent the door from moving freely and cause this code.
**we are going to bypass the EATC system in the following steps
1 Disconnect the two identical 14 pin conn's at rear of ATC
2 Turn Ign switch to Run
J1= (or conn C124) pass side control assembly, pin 11 should be blank, pin 1 should be BR/LG
J2= (or conn C126) driver side control assembly, pin 12 should be blank, pin 1 should be LB/RD

**verify you have a good ground on J2 pin 4 via continuity check from vehicle chassis to the conn.

3 Supply yourself with two jumper wires and perfrom the two tests.
*caution, you are going to supply Direct battery voltage to the Floor panel via pin J2-8 to test that it moves. Make sure you have power on this pin.  The door should move when the J2-4 is made which is ground.

4 jumper J1-6(pink) to J2-8(+bat LB/Pk AND J1-9(wh/y) to J2-4(bk)
*******The book says to do this test quickly, as in no more than one second or you may burn something up.
If door swings fully in one direction the proceed to next step by reversing the polarity to swing door in opposite direction

5 jumper J1-9 to J2-8 AND J1-6 to J2-4.
if door swings opposite driection fully, proceed on.

Resistance check of Floor Panel sensor **J1 only***
the sensor is nothing more than a variable resistor with three legs.
Pin 4 is one side of the resistor, pin 5 is the other side of the resistor, pin 13 is the moving center tap.

6 total resistance of sensor at J1 pins 4 to 5 should be about 500-600ohms

7 This step is kinda tricky and really depends on which position your door is in at this moment in time, especially if there is debris in the duct work that prevents the door from moving fully.
anyway, resistance from J1 pins 13(R/lg) to 4(BK/W) should be 70-550ohms
Resistance from J1 pins 13(R/lg) to 5(LG/O) should be 200-500 ohms.

8 Here is what i would do if you can manually move the door with your hand or something.  Treat this sensor like it were a throttle position sensor.
from J1 pins 13 to 5 with an ohm meter, measure resistance and manually move the door slowly watching the resistance scale increase and decrease smoothly.

from J1 pins 13 to 4 with an ohm meter, measure resistance and manually move the door slowly watching the resistance scale increase and decrease smoothly.

I have attached pics,, but chris, if your color codes are not matching what i have displayed,, please reply cause my shop manual has a different color code from my EVTM.  I think the shop manual is taken from the Linc or Mark.

this took me a while, i hope its helpful.