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Topic: (long post) Preparing the LSC for a road trip (Read 2218 times) previous topic - next topic

(long post) Preparing the LSC for a road trip

Reply #15 –
Quote from: Bird351;104122
Oh, almost forgot: I have an almost brand new reverse-rotation flex fan sitting in the '88 T-bird. The clutch fan in the Mark is a little tired, and the temperature starts to creep when the car is idling for some time. (like in a traffic jam) Would I be better off switching to the flex fan for the trip, or staying with the clutch fan? To be honest, I really don't like the flex fan.. seems to sap too much power at low revs.. and highway RPMs in this car aren't all that high, which would seem to negate the purpose of the flex fan.. yea or nay? (leaning towards "nay" at present) I've heard that a heavy duty F-150 clutch can be put in and helps cool better at low revs, but that's kind of expensive for a last-minute swap here. ($60-something, if I recall)

If you're after fuel mileage...ditch the flex-fan. Those things suck up power.

If you buy a fan clutch...only buy Motorcraft. Hayden/Imperial clutches generally give up the ghost long before an OEM clutch will.
 
If you're really into upping your mpg, slap on a Taurus fan and use a relay with a switch. A fan will run you about $50, a relay will be another $20, a switch for $5 and then some wires. It'll cost a little more than a Motorcraft fan clutch.

(long post) Preparing the LSC for a road trip

Reply #16 –
If I do a Taurus electric fan, I'll do it after the trip when I can save up for the fan plus a DCC controller. Didn't get as much for an Ebay auction as I was hoping, so I have to keep the expenses to a minimum.

Update time:

Pulled codes tonight, and got a 33.. EGR not opening on the continuous/memory codes. S nuff, the diaphragm went. No more wondering why, after a SPOUT-pulled timing reset, my car still knocked around half to 3/4 throttle with 87 or 89 octane, I guess. (EGR shuts off only on full throttle, right?)

Swapped out the de-icing switch on the A/C. One more small victory, I'll take all I can get.

Put all the tires up to around 39 PSI from the 30 they were down to when I checked. I know some say to go right to the max listed on the tire, but I'm still having trouble getting by the old 32 PSI standard.. baby steps to 4 o'clock. :p Anyway, ride is noticeably stiffer now.. so I hope that's a good sign.

Got my rear rotors today.. gonna try my hand at 'em tomorrow, along with a spark plug change, complete brake system bleed, and checking the ABS sensors for accumulated debris. Hopefully that clears up the yellow ABS light, because for the life of me I can't find the  ABS test connector. Supposedly in the trunk on later Marks.. no idea if it is on earlier Marks. Anyone have any tips on using that stupid little cube for the pistons without giving myself a migraine? :p

Have an ABS relay on order. Hope it gets here in time for the trip, because I've already had one relay go.. the relay from the parts car is what's in it now, and I've had that stick open once and drain the battery completely.

Preparing for the trip is still driving me insane, (short drive) but tonight's small victories (cleared up an issue with the door trim panels as well as the above) helped a great deal. 7 days and counting.
 

(long post) Preparing the LSC for a road trip

Reply #17 –
Oh man, I just had that right rear wheel off for the first time, and this is the worst brake damage I've ever seen without actually throwing the pad(s). The pad is so far gone, the wear tab mounting is now part of the pad surface. The rotor is so torn up that it looks like it is close to wearing through to the cooling fins in the middle.

Well at least they had their priorities straight and gave that corner a liberal covering of anti-seize on the wheel studs.. :rolleyes: