So, this wasn't the original plan. The past few months, my wife and I discussed picking up another vehicle (which would stay automatic). Being the weirdos that we are, we narrowed down to an 83-86 LTD or Marquis wagon, and then eventually opened it up to an option for a sedan.
Had been casually scanning for something for the past couple of months. No rush to get anything. Even inquired with the owner of a Marquis wagon that was in the neighborhood. Figured something would pop up.
Then a couple weeks ago, an ad on FB appeared for an '85 Marquis LTS with an LTD LX parts car in western PA. Both were kind of rough, but there was plenty of bonus stuff included. With no way to get 2 vehicles moved, I kind of sat on it for a week or so. Then after someone asked the seller about just purchasing the parts car, I went ahead and messaged them about the LTS.
For those that don't know, the '85 Marquis LTS is the one-year, Canadian-only, Mercury equivalent of the LTD LX, which was the "hot rod" of the Fox LTD line-up. They made 135 LTS's, total.
After a phone convo with the seller about it, he basically said he didn't want to bother with the guy interested in the parts car, and if I were to buy the LTS, he said I could take whatever I wanted off of the LX. He then sweetened the deal with offering to bring the car to me.
So, on a Sunday morning, I hopped in the car for the 5-ish hour drive to check things out and to hopefully make a deal.
Got there, looked things over, made a deal and got to stripping off the parts I wanted from the parts car. I was on limited time and wasn't *really* concerned with drivetrain/suspension stuff, as it's a Fox-chassised car after all. But I did grab some specific items, like 4 better doors, and hood, along with some LX-specific items (console, cluster).
Also included in the deal were a bunch of LTS-specific NOS parts.
We got everything organized, I loaded the NOS stuff into my car and drove home.
The next day, he shows up with the car and all of the other parts and we get it all unloaded.
In addition to the above stuff, the car also came with a set of Bullitt wheels, a half-installed 5-lug swap (94-95 spindles and 99+ 11" brakes up front), axles and drums for the rear 5-lug. New front suspension components, new fuel pumps and a new windshield. The car was FULL of parts when it arrived. As was the back of his truck.
Now, for those that care. I paid $2,400...total, to my door, for all of this.
Now it's sat languishing for at least a decade prior to the previous owner getting it, and looks "battle hardened", but underneath, the only bad rust spot is right at the front of the passenger floor board. The rest is solid. I have it running, but need to run through tune-up stuff, etc.
Primary goal right now is to get it running and driving and doing some clean-up and minor cosmetic stuff.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/arrival_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Beginning/int_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Beginning/int_2.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Beginning/under_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Beginning/underhood_2.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/arrival_3.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Beginning/nosstuff_2.jpg)
That is a cool find!
looking forward to the updates.
What are your plans after running/cleaned up?
Nice score! That has the CFI setup, what can be done for parts on that if you are going to keep it original?
Not quite sure yet. Going to kind of see where things stand and then go from there. It has roughly 100K miles on it (150K km), but it's been dormant for a while.
Yeah, CFI, which isn't really all that complicated. Worst case, it'll get a SEFI set-up on it. The emissions nonsense is the worst part of it all, really.
As far as keeping it "original", that's not really my thing. It'll get cared for and improved, but I don't do concourse builds.
That was my only hesitation with buying it. However, if someone wants to restore it...they'll need to show up with a nice "standard" LTD/Marquis (And let me keep my "non-original" stuff) to take it off my hands. Other than that we'll do what we want with it. :)
Congrats Chuck! The Marquis LTS is a rare bird it definitely deserves to be saved.
Hell yeah! Looking forward to pics of the car and work :smile:
Been busy going through all of the mechanical systems on this thing, trying to get it mobile.
No real exciting pics, other than getting the 5-lug axles in and testing wheel fitment on all 4 corners.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Susp_Brakes/newtires_2.jpg)
If you don't have any center caps for the wheels I found some SVT ones for the Bullitt wheels on my '83 on Amazon. I know you know but be sure to measure the ID of the cap well as there are different sizes out there.
https://www.amazon.com/Appl-Raptor-Applicable-Center-Cover/dp/B08FG7X43D/ref=asc_df_B08FG7X43D/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475793174801&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12577094337452667555&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026563&hvtargid=pla-1188911223057&psc=1
Would be pretty cool if these fit:
https://www.hubcaphaven.com/p/22260/c3802-mercury-milan-factory-oem-center-cap-9e5c-1a096-bc.html?gclid=CLCIkbTD88oCFQhbhgodMX8H0w
We're going to be making some custom ones. :toothless:
Those are 17" wheels. Those are also some pretty good sized brakes you have on 'er. :star:
Rock n roll man! :headbang: :headbang:
Yeah, I hadn't paid attention when I bought the car, as the ad listed "99+" brakes on it, and I assumed they were the 11" dual piston jobbies (Didn't really care either way). I pulled the wheels off the front to work on the lines/hoses and though "Those look bigger than 11"..." Pleasant surprise.
Still just 10" drums on the back for now, though. Other things to sort through before worrying about a rear disc upgrade.
Teaser on the new center caps for the Bullitts.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Susp_Brakes/centercap.jpg)
OK, well the rain forced me inside again, so I finished up the center caps.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Susp_Brakes/allcaps.jpg)
That is what I am talking about Chuck!!! Now how did you do it?
I searched for generic black caps that would fit the wheels. Took a little bit of searching and measuring. I had 1 original cap, which helped out quite a bit to get all of the dims.
I couldn't find a good image of an "LTS" logo online, and my Google-fu wasn't good enough to find the proper font (Mainly for the "S"), so I scanned the new "LTS" emblem I had and fixed the image so I could use my wife's Cricut machine to cut out the vinyl transfers. Got those on the caps and then sealed it all up with a few layers of clearcoat.
I think I have $20 into the center caps, so not an overly expensive proposition.
Afterwards, I was directed to Eric's Telnak Font (https://www.coolcats.net/media/font.html), which would've made mocking things up easier, but I can remember that for next time.
Well I can honestly say I’ve never seen one of those. I love weird/rare stuff like this. Nice score, Chuck.
Well, been working on this thing as time has allowed.
Got it out for its first drive today. Just a couple miles to get more gas in it, but it was a pretty successful ride.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/General/12_19_21_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/General/12_19_21_2.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/General/12_19_21_3.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/General/12_19_21_4.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/General/12_19_21_5.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/General/12_19_21_6.jpg)
Need to do the heater core and then get the interior back together, but this is a definite milestone.
Well, when we last left off back in Dec, I had a bunch of work to do in the interior. Foul weather slowed me down during Jan/Feb, but things finally started to clear up in March.
One of the first projects was to replace the heater core.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Interior/Heater%20Unit/gettingstarted.jpg)
The heater core itself was easy. However, investigations of the fan housing revealed more work...
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Interior/Heater%20Unit/nesting.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Interior/Heater%20Unit/hole.jpg)
Lost a couple weeks finding/waiting on a new fan housing (Which is the same as the TBirds or that era). Was mis-listed on ebay as for a 99-04 Mustang... (Found it from a Google search of the housing PN stamped on it)
I had to also rebuild the HVAC switch unit.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Interior/Heater%20Unit/accunit_4.jpg)
We'll see how long the repair on the (vacuum) selector switch holds.
Swapped out the sad steering wheel for one I had on the shelf
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Interior/oldsteeringwheel.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Interior/newsteeringwheel.jpg)
Pulled the old carpet out to install the new stuff
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/grosscarpet.jpg)
and found this...
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/holesholesholes_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/holesholesholes_2.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/holesholesholes_3.jpg)
All that rust was from the inside and not seen underneath except for a couple small holes.
So I had to repair a bunch of stuff.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/repair_10.jpg)(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/repair_12.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/repair_13.jpg)
and got the carpet in
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/newcarpet_1.jpg)
Had to swap all of the manual window regulators for the power ones and install a vapor barrier.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/DR_door_2.jpg)
Then I cleaned all of the seats and put the rest of the interior together.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/assembly_2.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/assembly_3.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/DF_door_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/PF_door_1.jpg)
And grabbed some matching floormats.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Interior/mat_2.jpg)
A couple more details to sort out, but it's on the ground and set of driving.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/4_2_22_1.jpg)
That field mouse was a busy dude. Any idea how the water got into the car to rust if from the inside out or do you think it was just prior neglect like leaving the windows down?
As I found out, it didn't have a windshield in it for probably 4-5 years. Tarps only keep so much out.
That and at least one of the front windows was slightly open all of the time.
Well, this is currently in regular driving rotation. It gets driven once or twice a week by either me or my wife.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/5_13_22_1_s.jpg)
I need to address the rear suspension before I let her get it on the interstate, though. The rear is a bit "loose", more than likely due to old suspension bushings in the RCAs and a little wonky roll axis because the car is a bit "raked".
Just going to poly bush and box a set of stock arms and put new rubber in the axle ears. Also going to do the "anti-squat" mod and drop the rear mounting point of the RLCA a bit. This will also help bring the rear ride height down a bit.
Gathering parts to get the AC functional again. At some point, one of the lines was cut, so I ordered a new drier, condenser, lines, etc. and will button things up and see if it holds vacuum. If so, I'll do a R134 retrofit on it and get the cold air blowing.
I've also begun pondering an engine swap for it.
Since it is staying a driver and also needs to remain an auto, I think I have a plan.
Looking at the 3.7 V6 from an 2011-2014 Mustang, with the 6R80. Some folks are already fussing about it. To me, 305hp and 30mpg in a light package seems like a good choice. Found a swap done in a '99 Mustang for a proof-of-concept that it can be done and keep the stock engine/trans management. I could do stand-alone engine and trans control, but seeing as we're not going to mod this, there's no need. Not interested in a built SBF, or messing with a 4.6 mod motor. The Coyote is just too ed expensive for my budget, and we don't need 500hp in this thing.
Planning on getting parts (or a donor car) at some point later this year, I think.
Looks like it is doing well.
The 3.7/6R80 combo, the computer will be from the donor car? Do you have someone to program the body control / PATS etc out of it?
If I get a complete car, yes. If not it will be purchased separately. I have a contact for someone who can do it, if not it's something readily available.
The guy who did the '99 swap used an engine and trans. Bought a trans harness, a swap harness for a Coyote (and modified it) and installed a stock ECU that had the PATS removed from it. He even kept the return-less fuel set-up.
Do those 3.7 sixxers tend to survive a hairdryer hanging off the side?
I admittedly know little about them, but am intrigued.
The 3.5's are the EcoBoost version.
This car won't get boosted.
thats exactly what i would've done, home grown solution. i like this thread.
btw, i had no idea this car had factory dual snorkle air cleaner.
i know you mentioned tossing the cfi stuff but.. investigate the 351 80's/90's bronco or trucks.
those eec's may be the power adder solution rather than grooming in a new eec harness. all the truck eecs i mention only have two injector pin outs which is what you have now on that car.
Ahh...brings me to query if the RWD 3.7 has the same water pump (internal) as the fwd versions....
Doesn't look like it. Looks to be external.
Waaaaay better!! You get the rear suspension issues settle and that car will be a fun one to drive.
That instrument cluster looks like it would fit a 83/84 Cougar or TBird. Would be a slick way of getting a functioning tach.
The dash is the same as the 80-82 TBirds/XR-7's.
The clusters physically fit, but there are a couple wiring changes needed.
When I had my old white 80 XR-7, I swapped an 83-84TC cluster into it. The tach worked, but I never got around to "fixing" it properly (4cyl tach on a 8cyl engine)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/80%20XR7%20White/interior%2010_07_04.JPG)
Well, I decided to go with a set of adjustable MM RLCAs for this, instead of boxing a set of stock ones. Of course they wound up on backorder (even though they showed in-stock when I placed the order...).
While I'm waiting on those, I took care of a couple more little projects.
First up was an e-fan installation.
I had a couple spare Volvo 850 fans/shrouds/relays, so I decided to pursue that option,
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/CoolingHVAC/fanrelay.jpg)
It took only minor tpuppies of the shroud and mounting the fan on the inside of it to make it all fit.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/CoolingHVAC/installed_1.jpg)
The Volvo relay has inputs for triggering the LO and HI speed modes on the fan.
Since I had already relocated the temp gauge sender into this 2-port manifold, I installed the Hi-speed temp switch there as well.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Drivetrain/tempsender.jpg)
Now, the LO-speed trigger was perfect for---triggering the fan for when the AC is turned on.
Yup. AC.
I replaced the condenser and all the hoses and flushed out the evap core and compressor for the conversion to R134a.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/CoolingHVAC/condenser.jpg)
Pulled a vacuum on the system (Just to verify that the evap core was indeed still good).
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/CoolingHVAC/thissucks.jpg)
A short while later, we now have working AC and an e-fan in the car.
On the other front, I now have this in my possession.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Drivetrain/3_7%20Stuff/unboxing_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2022/Drivetrain/3_7%20Stuff/unboxing_2.jpg)
A 2011 3.7 V6 with the 6R80 6-speed auto trans.
Right now I'm just researching all of the other details needed to make the swap work. Fortunately, the engine/trams harness are very modular and 98% complete, with the PCM. I think other that having the PATS disabled in the ECU, only a couple other configuration changes will need to be made. I'm planning no "mods", save for whatever the exhaust looks in the end, and maybe the large-bore TB upgrade.
The biggest decision up front will be to spend the money on an AJE K-member for it to be almost drop in, or stick with a stock K-member and make some mounts, etc. I haven't gotten that far yet. The AJE would have provisions for a stock spring set-up, so no need for anything fancy.
There are a few other systems and details that would need to be addressed, but I'm formulating a plan for those.
I'm hoping to have all of the stuff together to start this swap sometime next year.
Been a minute since an update.
As mentioned in the LTD wagon thread, the 3.7/6R80 is going there and this is staying as-is drivetrain wise for a bit.
Not too much to report, just been driving it and doing a little maintenance work. Nothing exciting.
We did take it up to Detroit for the Motor City Fox Fest back in July. Did great on the trip.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2024/General/MCFF_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2024/General/MCFF_2.jpg)
It'll get parked when the snow/salt starts to fly, but I do have a couple projects for it when I can get more done on the wagon engine swap.
Coming back from spectating at the velodrome Thurs night, I noticed that the PS pump was making more noise than it should.
It was dark at the time, but I looked under the car to see this mess.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Susp/psmess.jpg)
Awesome.
A quick investigation revealed that it was probably the reservoir o-ring. Seeing as it was probably the original to the car. It did have a bit of movement to it.
I was hoping to tend to it when I pulled the drivetrain out for a reseal, but I guess this didn't want to wait.
The reservoir was basically empty, but there were no signs of any rapid losses. I guess also hadn't noticed the dribbles on the driveway, but it rained a bit earlier in the week and I hadn't driven the car in a few days.
Since I had a pump rebuild kit but didn't want to pull the pump from the car, I just decided to do a quick o-ring replacement.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Susp/resoff.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Susp/flatoring.jpg)
You can see that the old o-ring (right) was kind of flattened.
Since I had it out, I also replaced the o-rings on the inlet fitting and the high-pressure connection.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Susp/inletfitting.jpg)
Got it all back together and power washed the gunk off of everything.
Now back to driving it until I'm ready for the aforementioned side-quest.
Well, after a couple of days of driving, the PS reservoir was low again. The fittings on the rack are clean and the boots are new-ish and aren't full of fluid, but should probably warrant a closer look.
I replaced the PS return hose with new clamps and cleaned things up.
Watching it run, it looks like the pressure line is seeping at the crimp. :shakehead:
Also, at this point, the front main seal on the engine is merely a suggestion. :nonchalance: That's where the bulk of the "mess" is coming from. I may need to park the car until I can get the drivetrain pulled out for the reseal/clean/port induction/MS swap.
I need to do a couple things on her Beetle, mainly to get the parts/boxes out of my way. Then this may move into the "work bay" spot and I'll bounce back and forth between it and the wagon. There are piles of parts in my way for this project as well, and it would be nice to get them off the floor and on the car.
OK, so I did wind up parking the car for a few weeks and dealt with other things.
This weekend I began tearing into it to do the refresh.
This includes:
- Resealing the engine. (All seals are merely suggestions at this point)
- Valve seals
- Motor mounts
- Factory headers
- Trans seals
- Fix PS leak (turns out to be a bad pump)
- Port injection set-up install with MegaSquirt ECU
- Rear disc brakes (S197s)
- A couple other fiddly bits
This is where we're starting
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/day_1_1.jpg)
Everything up top disconnected, and after removing the belt was when I found the bad PS pump. The pulley moved in/out but about 1/8" or so.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/day_1_2.jpg)
Also, a little project I'm working on for the intake
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/intake%20plaque.jpg)
Got this done today
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/drtivetrainpulled.jpg)
It wasn't playing nice on the hoist, so I conned my wife into being a second set of hands to get it out without damaging anything.
As I mentioned, the seals on this engine are merely suggestions.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/sealsuggestion.jpg)
There is nothing open here. That is oil actively draining from the oil pan or rear main seal
Messy, messy.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/messy.jpg)
The engine is on the stand and hopefully I can get the powerwasher out tomorrow and clear off the crud from the engine and transmission and start getting things taken care of.
Fired up the powerwasher this morning. Also hit the engine bay.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/cleaned.jpg)
Engine in the garage, ready for rehabbing.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/readyforteardown.jpg)
Mannnnn that is a nasty leak. In the worst possible place too. Seemed to clean up nicely though, and you had help which means the world. Great to see progress on this....wish I had that kind of motivation...
I’m retired (still have a lot of energy) and I can’t imagine undertaking all the projects you tackle (and succeed at) and have time to breathe. I assume you have a full time job, helpful, supportive wife, kids maybe. Kudos to you for forging ahead with all you do and contribute here.
Rick
This is honestly the first time I've had any help getting any help getting a drivetrain pulled/installed. I was in a bind. Luckily she hadn't left to run errands yet. :p
Yeah, full time job. 2 young kids (8 and 6). Trying to get back in shape after the hip surgery, etc. She supports my mania, but I do have A LOT of projects currently cooking. This doesn't even count the house projects that I'm peppering in.
I like to keep moving, but it's getting a bit more rough as I'm closing in on 60.
The front main isn't any better, Eric. If the PS hadn't given up on me, I'd probably still be driving it around, like I was. Time to get it fixed now, though.
At least it doesn't look too terrible in there.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/liftervalley.jpg)
While I have the rocker arms pulled for the valve seal replacement, I'm going to do a leakdown test, just to get a general idea of engine fitness. It ran well enough and didn't show any signs of problems, so it's more for informational purposes.
quietly in the background, "Project creep, pull the heads, project creep, roller rockers, project creep, roller lifters, project creep, project creep......."
edit: I have a nice set of heads with 1.9 intake 1.6 exhaust, with some bowl porting that would look really nice on that motor. LOL
Lol.
Yeah, that's not gonna happen here. I have other creeping projects I need to keep a handle on.
The only creep that has been added is redoing the Y-pipe. I did a quick patch up to get the car on the road, but now I need to change the f langes to accommodate the larger outlets on the factory headers vs the manifolds. I can't cobble bigger f langes onto this and feel good about it.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2021/Drivetrain/ypipe_1.jpg)
I'm also going to make a new dual tip, to mimic what they came with originally, as I just did the single when I built the rest of the exhaust. No duals on this car.
Been taking some time in the evenings to get the engine torn down and things that need it tossed into the ultrasonic tank.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/teardowncrust.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/timingcovercrust.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/strainer_pickup.jpg)
Lots of crust down low, not much up top.
This engine never gave me an oil light, or so much as a low-oil rattle.
Pulled the oil pump cover off and it didn't look too bad, honestly. Going to toss a new Melling pump and pick-up on it though, while I'm in there.
The harmonic balancer needs to be replaced and going to toss a new timing set on it, since I have it all apart.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/harmonic.jpg)
Pulled the ECU harness out to do the modifications for the MS swap.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/Wiring/harness.jpg)
I took out all of the EGR and other mostly-non-working emissions stuff. Pulled the wires out of the ECU connector and fixed up a couple of things.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/Wiring/castoffs.jpg)
The harness is now ready to go back into the car.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/Wiring/moddedharness.jpg)
I'll do the final wrapping, etc. once I get things in their final spots. I need to splice in the TPS harness to replace the non-OEM connector I used to get the car running, and make the connections to the injector harness. This is just going to be batch-fired, as I can use the 2 injector triggers I have and they ran the trucks this way, so it'll work. I didn't want to run 6 new injector triggers, for pretty much no gain.
The fan control is getting slightly altered. The LO-speed is still controlled by the stock AC relay, but the HI-speed will now be triggered by the MS unit, and not the temp switch I installed originally. I'm going to retain the WOT cut-out for the compressor, and can trigger that in the MS unit as well.
Speaking of the MegaSquirt ECU. I guess I haven't talked about it in this thread (I think I did in my old, lost FEP thread)
What I'm using is a OLD MS1 V2.2 board unit. The same thing I have had in the TBird, for 20-ish years.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2024/MS%20Install/MSunit.jpg)
What I'm using to connect it to the factory harness is the almost as ancient adapter board by Scott Hall that I've had sitting on a bookshelf forever (and I almost sold it too).
I was able to find the BOM for the components and de-soldered a connector from a junk EEC-IV ECU and put it all together.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2024/MS%20Install/adapterboardcomp.jpg)
Then with a short harness, you can connect it to the MS unit and all of the needed connections are made.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2024/MS%20Install/adapter_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2024/MS%20Install/adapter_2.jpg)
Kept me from going down the rabbit-hole to a more custom install with the harness, etc. I've done it. Didn't need to do it here.
Once I get things cleaned up a bit more, parts will start going back on the engine.
I also got a bunch of stuff to get the new Y-pipe made. I may, or may not, have purchased a bunch of stuff to be able to attempt TIG welding stainless with my welder...
Chipping away at things.
New timing set, oil pump and pick up are installed.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/newbits.jpg)
Got the engine all scrubbed down and in paint.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/inpaint.jpg)
Also got the engine harness back into the car.
Next tasks are
-Install timing cover and water pump.
-paint and install oil pan.
-replace valve seals
Able to budget my time and got the timing cover, water pump and oil pan installed this evening.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/timingwaterinstalled.jpg)
Looking good!
Got into the valve seals this evening.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/valveseals_1.jpg)
Wait...
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/noseal.jpg)
All of the valve seals on the DS of the engine are gone.
They are intact on the PS, however.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/oldvalveseal.jpg)
I have 2 sets of valve seals here, and neither fit the 0.550" guide diameter of these heads. Awesome. Now I'm looking for some that aren't the "umbrella" type to fit.
WTF??? That is so weird. Did I miss it or how did the compression/leak down tests go?
I didn't get a compression test done before I pulled things, due to time constraints to get that done.
I didn't do a full leakdown test, as I could tell the valve seals(or as it seems, lack thereof) were making things worse.
I know the engine has some wear, but it's not close to dead yet. If it could keep oil, etc inside of it, I'd still be driving it as it was.
Any big drivetrain changes are FAR down the list of things to do.
Gotcha. Was just curious as to how healthy it is with it being 40 years old. You are making some great progress but the seals missing on the one side is crazy.
Pssst, Project Creep. Just saying. LOL
Still getting things done.
While I wait on valve seals (got the Ford kit), I wasn't just going to stare at the wall, so I worked through a couple other details.
I went ahead and installed the thermostat and dropped the lower intake onto the block.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/lowerint.jpg)
I took a couple bits of AL can to seal off the EGR ports before I dropped things on.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/egrblock.jpg)
I'd cleaned up the motor mount brackets and decided to at least attach the isolators to them.
While doing so, I noticed that the replacements didn't have the little locator nubs on them. So I added some.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/motormounts.jpg)
More than likely not really needed, but I do know I had issues with some of my 2.3T mounts I used to make. If folks were lazy and didn't install the secondary hardware to keep the bases from twisting on the K-member pads, there would be some binding and vibration. So I just began installing the "nubs" on my mounts. Not a direct correlation, as those were poly mounts, but they were there for a reason.
The transmission x-member was crusty and the bushings were pooched, so I picked up another "adjustable" one and got it welded and cleaned and in paint (No painted pic)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/transxmember.jpg)
Final task for the weekend/day was getting the injector harness trimmed down.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/injharness_1.jpg)
The harness I have has sensors and such all tied into it with the injectors, but I don't need that, since my sensors are already in the harness that I have together.
Got it down to just the injectors, and now I need to cut off the big connector and group up the "banks", as I'm doing batch fire. Slightly different grouping vs the trucks, since I have the HO firing order.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/injharness_2.jpg)
Looks like I need at least 1 new u-joint on the driveshaft, so I'll just replace them both.
I've had this gear-reduction starter sitting on a shelf for who-knows-how-long. It's going to finally get used.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/starters.jpg)
I would like to add an oil pressure gauge to the car, and I have a couple old VDO ones in my stash. Just need to get a sender and figure out mounting. My coolant gauge is just mounted down low currently, which is fine, but there's not room for another gauge there. I may replace the ashtray "drawer" with something, that I'll probably just 3D print.
Once the valve seals land. Aside from priming the oil system and replacing the rear main, the block is basically done.
Valve seals arrived yesterday.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/valveseals_2.jpg)
Had a chance to get them installed today.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/valveseals_3.jpg)
Slapped the rest of the valvetrain together last night.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/valvetrain.jpg)
Going to prime the oil system before I put the valve covers back on.
Looking more and more like a non-leaking motor. Is the provision for a mechanical pump on the timing cover functional? I’ve seen where they are there but cast closed so was just curious. Hopefully that makes sense.
It's cast, but closed.
Looking ahead at 3 busy weekends in a row coming up. I'll have time to get things ready to drop in, but probably won't have time to stuff the engine/trans back in until after that.
Am I correct in remembering that the upper intake won't clear the PBF valve covers I have on the engine? May have to add a spacer, if so. I know there were certain covers that were kind of tall and interfered. I haven't messed with a port injected EFI 5.0 set-up before.
I want to say that what hits the valve cover is the throttle body linkage as it is directly over the valve cover. If you remove the EGR spacer then it move the throttle body in far enough that I think it may clear. Easiest way to know is to mock everything up.
I did a little looking around and found that Mike has valve covers similar to what you are going to run so check this thread out:
https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/valve-cover-clearances.901669/post-9338386
Was able to squeeze in a little work around everything else this weekend.
I'd attempted the install of the new AOD front seal, but I managed to slightly damage it on the install, so I opted to buy another. This time I printed up an install tool, to avoid any issues.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/AODfrontseal%20tool_2.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/AODfrontseal%20tool_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/AODfrontseal%20tool_3.jpg)
This evening I had a little time, so I thought I'd at least get the PS pump rebuilt.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/PS%20pump/pspump_1.jpg)
Compressing the unit to get the big c-clip out to release the valve cover.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/PS%20pump/pspump_2.jpg)
All of the guts. That cam assembly on the left with the shaft came apart on me during reassembly---. Had to fight all 10 of the springs and "slippers" back into place. Pretty easy to push that all apart when you're trying to get it installed and the shaft pushed through the new shaft seal.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/PS%20pump/pspump_3.jpg)
Aside from the 1 fumble, it all went together pretty quickly, and I wrapped it up just after dinner.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/PS%20pump/pspump_4.jpg)
All of the internal o-rings and that shaft seal were pretty stiff and obviously not doing their job.
Stopped and picked up some oil on the way home from work. Dumped 5 quarts into the engine and primed up the oil system.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/oilprime.jpg)
The #8 intake took quite a bit longer than the rest to finally flow oil.
I picked up an FL-1A filter as well, but I think I'm going to run on that MANN filter I put on to paint things for a short bit, then change it out. The MANN is a quality filter, even though this one is shorter than the FL-1A . (It's the same size as the ones used on the 2.3T turbo cars, though). Gonna run it for a couple hundred miles, then pull it and install the FL-1A.
Then I grabbed a few more parts and got them installed.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/moredressed.jpg)
Gotta clean up the valve covers, then they get put back on. Also going to stick the distributor in it.
Looking good Chuck! Talk about a huge change under the hood and it should be a good power plant until you decide to do something else or not.
Limited time the past few days, but I did get a little time today to get the valve covers, distributor, and injectors installed.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/installready_1.jpg)(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/installready_2.jpg)
Other than the rear main seal, the engine is ready to drop back in. The only other item that needs to be tended to is to replace the trans filter.
Hopefully next weekend I'll have some time to get that accomplished.
Got time to work today.
One of the firsts tasks was to get the RM seal replaced. Made use of my install tool. It took almost nothing to get the old seal out.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/rearmaininst_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/rearmaininst_2.jpg)
Got the trans filter replaced and got things back together again.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/togetheragain.jpg)
While I was prepping to move things into place, I found this. A busted PS cooler line.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/brokenpsline.jpg)
*sigh* Guess it's good I found it now, instead of after I filled the system up.
That wasn't going to stop me from my goal for the day, however.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/droppedin_1.jpg)(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/droppedin_2.jpg)
All bolted down, so now to finish up the rest of the stuff.
No time to get on this until today. Of course it's the day the weather decided to take a turn and get cold and blustery.
I needed to get the driveshaft back into the car, but I needed to replace the u-joints first. During the RnR of the U-joints. One of the balance weights got knocked off of the shaft, so I welded it back on.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/driveshaft.jpg)
Got that knocked out and got the unit back into the car.
I did pick up a new rear sway bar for the car too, so I got that swapped in while I had things up for the driveshaft install. Went with a 24mm one over the 21mm that was in there. The 21mm will wind up on the wagon. (Unless I buy another larger one for it :toothless: )
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Susp/rearsway.jpg)
The next, tedious task was to replace the bad trans cooler lines. Which took much longer than it needed to. Just used a Classic Tube set.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/transcoolerlines.jpg)
By this time, the temps had dropped quite a bit, so I was done for the day.
Following up on the throttle body spacer clearances.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/TBspacer_1.jpg)
With the thinner aftermarket spacer, it clears the valve covers and such just fine. What doesn't clear is the throttle cable bracket.
It hits the FPR on the rail. I'm probably going to just go back with a modified stock EGR spacer instead. It'll give me the clearances I need.
I need to get back under the car and reinstall the shift cable and the the TV cable.
I've also made the decision to just mod the stock Y-pipe to fit the factory headers and build the new Y-pipe later. Not what I wanted to do, but I'm just running out of time before it gets generally miserable outside.
Nice little progress, that's always so satisfying to bang out all the details in a row.
On my car I had to slot the throttle cable bracket to move it upward and get clearance over the valve cover (Cobra intake, tall valve covers, 1" phenolic spacer). But all that did clear the adjustable FPR. It's not uncommon to need to adjust things. The EGR spacer will do the trick though.
Yeah, I think everything will clear just fine with the stock spacer, and I shouldn't need any intake spacers.
I also have some downtime coming up this week that'll slow things down. Got to have cataract surgery on one of my eyes later this week, so that's going to limit me for a short bit. Hopefully I'll still be able to work on some of the underhood wiring.
Looks good so far. Nice to have the engine back in I bet.
Hope it a quick and easy procedure for you. You'll have that new twinkle in your eye after the new lens. Maybe even see better under the hood!
Well, I had some time to work this weekend, but not much picture-worthy stuff.
Yesterday I spent some time under the hood, to limit my getting up and down from under the car. I got the sensor wiring and such where it needed to be. Had to extend a couple leads, as a couple things were in different locations from with the CFI set-up.
I also got the battery tray moved from the PS to the DS of the engine bay, as the air box needs to live in the old battery location.
I test fit the throttle body with the stock adapter, and it does look like I'm going to need a plenum spacer for the throttle cable bracket to clear the valve cover.
Today was wrestle under the car day.
Got the shift cable connected and was looking at the TV cable and realized that I don't have the correct lever arm on the trans for the cable, so I need to hunt one of those down.
Next was reworking the old Y-pipe to fit the new factory headers. That turned into a fight, and I still need to make another adjustment. Just ran out of time today.
The only thing worth a picture is the intake plate I printed up. I got it in paint this weekend, so that'll be ready when it's time to put it on.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/intake%20plate_painted.jpg)
I think the main problem with the fitment of the Y-pipe is that when it was originally done, all of the mounts, especially the transmission mount, were toasted. Now things are raised back up, and so is the Y-pipe.
Just gotta get back under there and sort that out now.
Finished fighting with the modded Y-pipe today. I hate it. It'll work though until I can build the new one.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/moddedypipe.jpg)
Got my 1/2" intake spacer today, too.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/intakespacer.jpg)
A quick test fit shows that the throttle cable bracket clears and the hood still closes.
All kinds of little stuff left to do, but we're starting to close in on the end now.
Progress and setbacks.
Right now, my biggest problem is finding time to work on this thing. Also, since the weather has decided to turn disrespectful much earlier this year, that's compounding the problem. Been chipping away at things as time and weather has allowed.
This week, I got the upper intake installed (with 1/2" spacer) and got the TV cable stuff all sorted out.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/underhood_12_7.jpg)
ECU wiring is all located aside from the O2 sensor. I plan on wrapping/looming things after it's running.
Also, got all of the vacuum lines, etc connected to their appropriate locations, except for the tube from the VC to the TB.
Since I'm insisting on using a stock airbox, I needed to relocate the battery to the other side. This required some new cables.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/Wiring/batterycable_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/Wiring/batterycable_2.jpg)
I started to work on the starter wiring, as I needed to make changes for the new starter. After about 5-10 minutes of sorting out what to do with the wiring from the fender-mounted starter solenoid, I pulled my head out of my butt and realized that I no longer needed the solenoid on the fender...
Order some parts to change that out.
About that time, it was getting colder, so I decided to call it for the day. As one last thing, I opted to start to fill the cooling system.
That was great and all, until I noticed a leak from behind the water pump.
Looks like I need to pull the pump off and see what's happening there. Awesome. :shakehead:
Ordered more parts and hopefully will be able to get the fuel lines hooked up and the PS system complete soon.
The current list of things needed to get the car running.
- Rework fuel liness - Need to connect existing nylon lines to the later fittings on the new rail extensions.
- Replace throttle cable - Have it, just need to get under the dash to swap things out.
- Wiring for new starter - Waiting on parts
- O2 sensor wiring - Not *needed* to get it running, but I'll be running a WBO2 for a short bit to sort the tune, and then I'll swap it back to a NB version.
- Evidently replace H2O pump gaskets...again - It's either between the pump and the plate, or the plate and the timing cover.
- Fill trans
- PS pump pressure hose - Install new one and fill PS system
-Mount airbox - Being totally unfamiliar with Fox 5.0 EFI installations, looks like I need to cut some sheet-metal and I think I have the wrong parts for inside the fender. The oval portion of the "silencer/etc" is much smaller than that on the air box. Do I even need it?
- Relocate and fix tubing for HVAC vac reservoir
It was the pump to plate gasket that was leaking, Shoulda pulled that apart when I did everything else, but didn't have a gasket for it in the kit I had.
Took advantage of some reasonable weather yesterday to pull the pump and clean everything up for when the gaskets arrive.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/h2opumprepeat1.jpg)
Got the hole cut for the airbox. I'll have to sort out the upper mount, as the indents/provisions for the attachment bolts aren't in the sheetmetal. (They're recessed and angled)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/airboxhole.jpg)
Planning to add an oil pressure gauge, so I picked up an sender with a warning light trigger.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/oilsender.jpg)
Also got the throttle cable swapped out and connected.
Now we're due for some really cold weather the next few days, so I'm probably away from thing until after that.
Waiting on parts and the cold weather happened at the same time, so by the end of last week when I was off for the holidays, I had the bulk of the stuff I needed to button up the major systems.
I was still waiting on water pump gaskets, but I took some time to fill the trans and install the new pressure line for the PS over this past weekend. Since I was filling up things, I decided to add some fluid to the PS system. The pump was still semi-attached because I was waiting to finish the water pump reinstall, but it could take fluid. I filled the reservoir and started to turn the pump to move some fluid into the system. I got 1/8 of a turn in and the pump locked up. :disappointed:
Now, when I was rebuilding the pump, I fought with the multiple spring-loaded fingers on the cam/pump assy. I figured in the scrum getting them all to stay in place while I pushed it all together, I might've had an errant/misaligned spring. It's pretty easy to pull it apart, so I dug back into it. I discovered that I had managed to not align the proper holes in the top plate of the compressor assy with the dowels. So, once I chased the springs and fingers around again, I made sure things were aligned properly. Took me about an hour to sort that screw-up out.
Water pump gaskets and fuel line fittings showed up, so I was able to tackle getting the water pump reinstalled and let it sit overnight before trying to fill it up.
As a refresher, I needed to adapt the stock nylon lines on the car to the quick connects on the new fuel lines at the engine.
From the factory, the later Fox Mustangs had the (steel) fuel lines run along the outside of the passenger frame rail, and then pop under to attach to the engine lines with some rubber hoses. My plan was to mimic that with the nylon stuff (for now) and see how things go.
I got a couple sets of quick disconnect fittings and got the one side installed into the nylon hose.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/fuellines_1.jpg)
I used the Dorman fitting tool to install these. Kind of a pain in the butt, but it got the job done.
I then attached the other fitting to some fuel hose with the needed factory fitting on the other end.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/fuellines_2.jpg)
Kind of a productive couple of days. The fuel system is connected (just waiting on some mounting clamp brackets), the cooling system is done. The PS system is done. Starter wired and fender solenoid has been replaced with a power post.
I did swap out the TFI module, as the MegaSquirt needs a "push start" module, and claimed that the white one was not going to work properly. Luckily I had a stash of the others.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/Wiring/TFI.jpg)
Here's where we are now.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/12_23_25.jpg)
At this point, Only an O2 sensor and building the initial tune file for the MegaSquirt is keeping me from trying to fire this thing up.
I'm going to stick one of my WBO2 sensors in it , as I'm going to need to do a little tuning. It'll eventually go back to a NBO2 when I'm happy enough with it,
I may have to extend my wiring harness for the MS to the adapter board, as I'm not too happy with my mounting options that are within reach of the current harness. Right now I just want to get it running again.
Well, I've spent time the past couple of days to get this thing fired up. It's refusing at the moment.
Got my Spartan II WBO2 sensor wired in yesterday and then fought with the starter.
The starter seemed to be struggling, so I tossed the original stock one back on and all I got was sparks. The engine spins by hand, so I tested both starters with direct battery voltage.
The gear reduction one works fine, and the original is locked up. It was fine when I pulled it, and evidently went bad sitting in the garage. It wasn't even installed when I power washed everything, so it didn't get wet and sit. :dunno: I put the small one back on and it seems OK.
I swapped the TFI module that was on the car back on, as I researched, and it's perfectly fine for use with the MS, and I think the one I grabbed from my stash was bad.
Right now, I'm having an issue where it seems that the fuel system isn't getting controlled properly. The pumps won't prime, and even when I bypass the relay and have them running, the injectors seem to not be firing.
The MS unit appears to be doing what it's supposed to, but it might be something in that adapter board.
Other than removing the EGR and other stuff I don't need, this is the original harness. Only the injector harness was added and a couple sensor leads were altered. I didn't mess with any wiring for the relays.
Gotta do some more digging, and I'm out of nice weather after today. It's close, though.
So, I dug into it a bit last night.
The program was commanding for fuel pump activation, but the ECU was not sending the signal. I discovered this while running the ECU with the Stimulator on the bench.
I've run into this before on these, so I hunted down the transistor for the fuel circuit. You can see the old one on the bench and the new one (next to the MAP sensor hose) ready for soldering.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/Wiring/MSrepair.jpg)
Hooked things back up to the laptop and now we have FP signal (The LED on the lower right)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/Wiring/fuelpumpsignal.jpg)
The weather is pretty gross today, but I may brave it for a few to plug this all back in and see if we can get signs of life out of it.
Well, I made an attempt earlier to start this thing, and while I have fuel pump function, it seems like the injectors aren't firing. Things check out with the Stimulator, and the adapter board is just a passthrough.
I need to trace forward to see if it's something in the harness, or what. Too cold and windy today to mess with it.
Wind is pretty crazy here too.
Hope it is a simple find and fix.
You have the patience of a saint, Chuck. Most of us would have no idea how to work through a complicated electronic issue like this. Kudos to ya.
OK. I had to finish up a house project by yesterday (Solar battery), but I decided to brave the chilly temps this afternoon to do some trouble-shooting.
I rigged up a couple test lights and set about to verify spark and fuel.
I had spark and the injectors were firing. I pulled a plug to check to check to see if it was wet, and it had some fuel on it.
I decided to recheck the timing. I rotated the engine to my 10* BTDC mark and popped the dist cap. Sure enough, I's somehow managed to get the timing 180* out. I pulled the dist up and rotated the rotor 180* and put things back into place.
Then it started to make the proper noises. I got it running, but couldn't get it to idle and I know I need to work on the tune.
By this time I was starting to get a bit chilly, and the laptop ran out of charge, so I took that as a sign to stop for the day.
Not a 100% success, but I know that my ECU and the adapter are good. Just need to fiddle with the tune now.
I still have to secure the fuel lines down, but the clamps I needed didn't show up until yesterday, so I'll get to those soon enough.
So this happened today.
Running! (https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/Running_1_3_25.mp4)
We had some family visiting through this morning, so I only had a couple hours yesterday to try and get the fuel lines secured. That failed, so I left things alone, as I knew I was going to try and start it today.
After setting the base timing and flashing a revised tune that I liked a little better. The car fired right up and began to idle. I'm not running an idle control valve, so I adjusted the throttle slightly. Idles at about 700-800 rpm. It was 30*F outside, and it didn't miss a beat.
Had to chase the cooling system around to get it to fill up. Once I was satisfied with that, I put it back on the ground to shuffle cars around. (I needed to move the TBird and the Beetle around to get this out of its work spot).
Once I got the trans filled enough to get it to move, I took it around the block to put some more gas in it. I need to add a little more ATF, evidently, but other than that it seemed to shift OK.
My WBO2 stopped reading correctly during all of this, so it was pegged full rich, but the sensor shows it's "at temperature" and was working for the initial start up.
Gotta check that out, but it is for sure not running rich. Throttle response is good, and it revs clean when I blip the throttle.
At some point I lost my tach signal when converting things. I cut out a couple things, including the diagnostic plugs, so I need to trace that down.
My HI-speed fan output isn't functioning in the car, but it was on the stimulator. I'm not seeing the indicator activate in TunerStudio, so another mystery.
Waiting on more materials to do the fuel lines now. I couldn't get the nylon to cooperate well enough to my liking around the frame rail, so I'm working up a solution.
Good to finally have it running again, even if I have a couple things to button up.
Fired things up again today after a tweak in TunerStudio and I have proper WBO2 readings again. I messed with the warmup routine a bit while it was coming up to temp.
Still don't have a working HI speed fan, and it might be a problem in the MegaSquirt itself. More digging on that to come. Might just switch which output I'm using.
I still can't figure out what happened to the tach signal. :dunno:
The tach signal comes from the coil, but at some point in the process of cutting out the excess in the wiring harness, I must've removed something needed. The only thing that is even close is the old diagnostic plug. I cut it out at the splice and redid the splice with the wires that remained. I'm tempted just to run a new lead to the cluster. The LTS (and the LTD LX and Police versions) were the only ones with the tach, and none of the wiring diagrams have all of the info.
OK. Mystery solved on why the outputs (temp related) weren't working.
I originally wanted to use the Ford sensors, as I had a good set of them. MegaSquirt is base coded around GM sensors. The resistances are different.
Now, you can change the settings to use other sensors, but it's much more difficult with the old, MS1 stuff. I got the settings for the gauges to change without problem, but I couldn't get the firmware changes needed to work properly.
So, what I had happening was, while I had good readings on the gauges in the TunerStudio dashboard, what actually runs things is the firmware. The gauge might be showing 205*, but the ECU wasn't seeing that, and thus wasn't switching the output channel.
My TPS related output for the WOT signal to cut off the AC compressor was working fine, as it hadn't been altered.
I should have parts for this and the fuel lines this week, so hopefully I can get this fully on the road next week.
Got some time today before the rain came in to get the fuel lines and the fender liner wrapped up.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/fuellines_3.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/fuellines_4.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/fuellines_5.jpg)
I was limited to 12" lengths of hardline that had the proper quick disconnect ends on both ends. Until I source a new or used set of factory metal lines these will work just fine.
Got a little kink in the feed line, but my hand bender is kinda cheap. Not going to affect anything though. I cut down the nylon line as needed and fit new straight female quick connect ends to them to mate to the hardlines. The hardlines fit the fittings I was using in the engine bay, so no changes were needed there.
Fitting the fender liner took more work than it should've. I had to relocate the HVAC vacuum reservoir and then had to straighten the fender a bit on the rear of the wheel opening to get the liner happy and fit up properly. This is the damaged fender, so it wasn't too unexpected.
With that wrapped up, the car is road-worthy again. Ready to put miles on it to sort the tune. Once I'm happy enough, I'll switch it to a NB O2 sensor.
A couple things to deal with in the near future.
- Sort the location/mounting of the MS ECU. I'll probably need to extend the harness for this for me to be happy, but it won't affect things in the short term
- Get the tach working again. (Still a mystery)
- Mount the fender-mounted wiper/washer tank-pump. The old engine bay one was displaced by the battery.
- I've been needing to figure out what's binding on the DS door lock I replaced the switch a while back, but it won't stay down and stay locked. Gotta pull the door panel to sort that out.
- Clean up/loom wiring in the engine bay.
Glad to have it drivable again :toothless:
Got a little time before dinner to tuck the factory ECU box into its spot and find a temporary home for the MS unit.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2025/Drivetrain/Refresh/msecumounted.jpg)
Waiting on the weather to cooperate a bit to get it out and about.
Probably the last "decent" day to get out for the next week or so.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2026/Gen%20Pics/1_22_26.jpg)
Got it out for a little tuning time while commuting and picking up the kids from school.
So far so good. :toothless:
Looks Good!
There is something about a wagon with a healthy exhaust that is just a head turner! The wheels look great man!!
The current state of things.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2026/Gen%20Pics/snowday_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/85%20LTS/2026/Gen%20Pics/snowday_2.jpg)
Got a foot of snow this past Sunday. Got everything else dug out, but had to put this off for a bit, as I have no place to easily put the snow.
Started working on that a bit after work today. I have to carry the snow to a couple different places to move it, so it takes a bit longer.
I want to have it uncovered so I can start it (and work on the start/warm-up routine a bit while it's cold) and work on a couple of the other small bits. The roads aren't going to be clear enough for a while now, so Natasha (as my wife refers to it (i.e. the Black Widow) is sidelined for a little while again.
why do i not remember this thread... gots me some reading to do.
the LTS is not a car i have ever heard of.
i wish the board had a way to reactivate all the older pics here now that just show up as an X
I imagine a bunch of the missing pics are from where hosting for the pictures moved or disappeared.
I know a lot of the pics in my older threads got broken when my original webhost shut down w/o warning.
I'd have to go back through each post and relink whatever was originally there.
Got the car dug out over the weekend, but the roads are going to be a yucky mess for a while yet.
I'm just glad this board is still working. It's barely running as it is...we're just one PHP update from losing all functionality. Love to move things over to a different board software. Unfortunately that takes way more database magic than Alex or I can do. So we just keep limping along and hoping for the best...
Yeah, all of the backend stuff is waaaaay out of my skillset.
Well foureyedpride is now gone and all of the knowledge with it. It would suck for the same to happen here. Is getting this forum over to new software simply a bit enough time thing and/or a money thing? I’m super ignorant when it comes to this stuff so forgive me if I’m not asking the right question.
Also, do not mean to derail your thread Chuck.
I've been following the foureyedpride saga from afar and definitely do not want our board to go the same way, not if I can help it. There's just too much accumulated knowledge to let it slip out of existence. I'm sure everyone here is in agreement with this.
I'll start another thread in the Lounge so we don't keep drive-by-pooping all over this one LOL.
Back to your regularly scheduled Chuck. ;)