I just weighed my car at the local DOT scale in track configuration. It was exactly 3400 lbs. Not bad concidering how much modern cars weigh these days. I remember when we used to consider our cars heavy, lol... now our cars are 200 lbs lighter than s197 and s550 mustangs. I'll be eading to the road course at msr cresson for scca track night in america next tues. I'm hoping the 347 and t5 stay together! Anywho, here's a pic with the track wheels and hankook rs-4 tires on the car.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/124yagy.jpg)
Almost forgot, here's the mild fordstrokers 347. Peak power is around 5400 and i shift at 5600. Tmoss ported the Cobra intake. Ive got a fast ez-efi 1.0 fueling it with 36# injectors (too much, 30's would be fine), an msd 6al2 programmable controlling the ignition timing, tfs tw heads and a custom billet core comp cam ground on xe lobes. Basically an xe274hr12 with a little less lift. I intentionally built it to stay under 6000 rpm so i dont scatter parts all over the road course. Its got to handle 20 min sessions and the factory 5.0 block is the weak link (i need a dart block)! Based on fuel flow i should be making around 330 hp at the wheels. There is alot more power in this engine waiting to be unlocked but for now I'm pretty pleased with it.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/35jmu8o.jpg)
Looks good, good luck
Sweet!! Good luck at the track.
Looks good!
Thanks guys! Ive been in a final 3 month thrash trying to get this thing ready. I think ive worked on the car almost every day fixing everything from the flywheel ring gear and starter bendix to replacing blown head gaskets and worn hubs... and it seems like just about everthing inbetween! Alot of the maintenance was planned but alot was "oh !" unplanned. I'm glad i have a supportive wife that gets it (she likes street outlaws and fast and loud, lol...). Stuff breaks on an old hotrod and then you fix it!
I think this is the first day i have not had to raise the hood or put the car on jackstands, thank goodness! I actaully finished up with 5 days to spare! There's nothing like working under a deadline to make you get stuff done. Now no more beating on it now till i get to the track!
Car looks killer! Best of luck but I wouldnt worry about the block at that power level just yet tho. Let er rip!
Looks clean! Whats the suspension and brake setup?
Maximum Motorsport tubular k member with coilovers and 13" cobra brakes in the front. MM rear lower control arms, panhard bar and coilovers with rear disk brakes. Running raybestos st47 pads on the front and st45 on the rear for the track along with Motul rbf660 dot 4 fluid. I shouldn't have fluid or pad fade issues. The brakes are pretty incredible with these race pads. They can be run on the street but they dust like crazy and arent cheap so I'll swap the street stuff back on after the track day.
The car looks awesome and don't worry about that stock roller block. My buddy (John George) ran the NASA circuit in the American Iron class here in the Texas/Oklahoma area with a stock block and crank all season and won the class in 2004 & 2005 so I would not worry about the block.
Thanks Aerocoupe, i always wondered how the NASA CMC and AI guys running factory 5.0 blocks kept thier junk together. I always figured they must have spares on hand. I know they mercilessly beat on thier cars in those races. Its encouraging to know that they can make a factory block last. Guess I'm just being overly paranoid, lol...
Looks real nice!
What are your wheel sizes/offsets? Tire sizes?
And since you went with MM I have to ask. Which offset control arms did you go with?
Do you have full 2.5" tail pipes? I want to add the Maximum Motorsports panhard bar to my car but I'm not sure if it will clear the 2.5" tail pipes.
Wheels are 17×9 cobra r with 255/40zr17 all around. Im using the fox mustang length control arms. The sn95 would require 8" wide wheels and i wanted to run 9" wheels. The only drawback to the shorter arms is that i cant get as much negative camber. Its maxed out at 1.2 degrees so it was a compromise. I chose wider rubber over more neg camber. I have the exhaust dumped ahead of the axle. According to mm tail pipes should clear the panhard bar and ive seen pictures but never tried it myself. The dumps just make maintenance easier for me.
The 2.5" tail pipes will clear as long as they follow the stock routing exactly. I have the panhard bar and torque arm on my Coupe and the only two aftermarket tail pipes that will work are the Dynomax and Flowmaster or at least those are the two that I know consistently clear the panhard bar assembly. I used the Dynomax tail pipes and we ended up cutting both sides in two pieces up high on the arch over the rear end to make it easier to install and it took some time lining them up so they did not hit anything. There were a couple of guys that cleared 3" but they built the exhaust and used mandrel bends so it had to have been a lot of hours to make it work.
I'm running Dynomax 2.5" tail pipes so I would hope everything clears....