Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

I meant to start work on my 84 months ago, but I've been super busy with the cruise I went on, wedding, and just this past weekend, part 1 of our wedding parties. The plan keeps changing, except for it getting stripped and redone.

Today's post is about my starting point. I removed my body kit, which I thought would have been a lot more difficult. I knew I had a decent amount of work just on the body. I'm pleasantly surprised that it isn't worse than it is. Only 3 holes, 1 of which is the driver front floor. I'll need some sheet metal, but the car is as solid as it was when I got it.

(http://i.imgur.com/wLMCtoLl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/5F8ffqLl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/EQ2xCdfl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/LhoXzBtl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/LLYvUfpl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/9NYWA2Gl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/vOKLPU3l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/eUvqCvnl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/twOvxDml.jpg)

^^This is why I needed another front bumper.  To make the kit fit I had to cut all that away.

(http://i.imgur.com/8tX3YGol.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/63kT9Ezl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/ajpCauml.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/3E4sTcll.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/xUFA5Ztl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/Ib1Rv40l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/BsJmNIgl.jpg)

This all looks familiar...I've done this same thing half a dozen times in my life. ;)

Sorry to see all the rust but it happens. Still love your color combo. Very cool.

You putting the kit back on when you're done?

Wow that is really really orange! :)
I like it. And don't worry Jerry will be along momentarily to tell you how trivial that rust is LOL

As long as the structure is solid (frame rails, torque boxes, rockers, underside) the rest is cosmetic and easily fixable.

If you want, i can make you feel better by taking a few detailed pictures of my cougar.

My camera settings are a bit off, believe me, my grass is NOT that green.  The orange is a little too bright in these pictures.

Structurally the car is as solid as rock...a very flexible rock.  I'll be taking care of that in the coming months with through floor frame connectors and some other stiffening mods.  It'll need it with the future power goals I have.  Just needs a few cosmetic fixes.  I thought it was going to be much worse under the kit.

The kit is staying off.  I really liked it when it was first put on.  Then as the years went on, it became a nuisance.  The front and rear need minor fixing from tow strap damage.  The skirts need major work, the driver from the wheel off my brother had happen to him, my side pipe got pushed into it, and the passenger side ripped almost completely in two from removing it.  The kit also has prevented me from lowering the car more than I have already.  It still had truck ground clearance in the front when parked on pavement, not very aggressive looking.

I'm still torn on what to do with the color.  The combo really worked with the kit.  I don't know if it will so much without it.  But it's really difficult to picture how I'd incorporate the orange into a black base without it looking weird.  The scoops with the silver just work, but a black hood with orange scoops, or even silver, wouldn't look right I think.  Then the grille.  I'm lost on what to do with that.  The chrome isn't holding up, but painting it silver with black in between the fat bars wouldn't look good.  I have a lot running through my head for paint, but I have to concentrate on fixing the body, stiffening the chassis, and getting ready for the engine/trans this year.  Paint will be last and is planned for winter 2016/17 at this point.

This orange, competition orange
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c46/aj2385/2015mustang-competitionorange2_zps7fed900f.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/aj2385/media/2015mustang-competitionorange2_zps7fed900f.jpg.html)

+1 On the Competition Orange. With the dark trim around the windows and your headlight buckets it would work. Maybe light window tint would also look good against the orange as well.

LOL...... very funny Pauly

It all looks familiar to me too...
that'll keep you out of trouble for a while ;)

For a little while, until it's time to break in the engine

The usual spots.  Always loved this car.  Can't wait to see it back together!

On Friday, I gutted the trunk and pulled the rear bumper off.  Found an additional hole on the left side where the rear bumper holes are in the quarter panel.  Non-structural and not visible with the bumper on.  I won't be too picky about how that gets fixed.

Pulled all the sound deadening  off the trunk floor.  Only good thing about a 31 year old neglected car is that stuff peeled right off for the most part.  Pulled the carpet and removed all the jute backing by pressure washing it off.  I don't know what I'm doing with the trunk yet.  It might stay bare with some custom side panels to prevent things from flying around and putting dents in the quarters....again.  Learned that lesson the hard way.  Carpet is in decent shape but will need to be dyed if I use it.  Unlike the interior carpet, I can't get the trunk carpet new.

Also found that my Cougar...a car...is better at killing mice than my actual cats...who play with mice.  Found about 6 in just the trunk!  About 6...because I found just fir and goo in the driver side plastic compartment thing.

This Friday I hope to tackle the front.  I don't know how far I'm going to get.  I'd like to at least get the front bumper off.  If I feel up to the challenge, I'll have the header and fenders off too.  I also need to free up some space so I can start to gut the interior.

It has been awhile since I have been online. But this looks like it will be a good rebuild! Good Luck!

Finally got the mess sorted out in my dad's pole building.  Got the car inside and started tearing into it.  We're a few months behind now, but we should be fine now that it's inside with a decent amount of working room. 


(http://i.imgur.com/MOgOegXl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/UvpJfmal.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/b0u67Qzl.jpg)

The hood is going to get completely stripped.  These bubbles popped up about 2 years after the orange went down.  No idea why.  The factory paint was in good shape when we got the hood.

(http://i.imgur.com/Eh0bgSdl.jpg)

Trunk was pulled apart during the warmer weather.  There was a puddle in the rear part of the spare well.  Don't know where it came from as the seal isn't in too bad of shape and all the holes that are exposed would have put the water in the side pockets.

(http://i.imgur.com/r9fClXul.jpg)

Pulled all the trim off.  Have to strip it and decide on color.

(http://i.imgur.com/AFrACPAl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/y8soMr6l.jpg)

A few years back, my cousin hit a golf ball, or should I say shanked, and it bounced off my parked car.  It was a lucky shot, lucky for a few reasons.  First it didn't break the window, second it didn't dent the quarter, but most lucky, for me anyway, of all, it hit the quarter window trim.....at the EXACT location of one of the can't be replaced because no one makes them plastic clips. :raspberry  So I'm in need of a passenger quarter window trim piece with plastic clips intact.  Please keep me in mind when scouring the junk yards please.

(http://i.imgur.com/Nm36UQNl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/lo9J5l4l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/D9X4Sb2l.jpg)

Passenger side strut tower just needs a light blasting and new paint.

(http://i.imgur.com/28pzcl4l.jpg?1)

Driver side needs a little more attention, but it appears to be surface rust.  So I'm happy there.

(http://i.imgur.com/SGJgQgFl.jpg)

I hope to update this much more frequently now.  This is the only major project I have planned for this winter.  Hopefully come spring my wife and I have our own space to call home.  I don't like using my dad's garage, but he's on board.  We just need to have the body and chassis work done this winter to remain on schedule.

I really wanted to do a video series about this build.  I'm not much for being in front of the camera though, especially talking.  Maybe if I get over that I'll do some videos.  I'd really like to start a regularly updated YouTube channel.  I can't be any worse that some of the  that's out there...and somehow get hundreds of thousands of views.  Maybe I'll do a few once the engine stuff gets underway.  Maybe a trans video,  or converting my TC rear to 5 lug.  We'll see.

As I mentioned above, keep an eye out for any 4 eye Cougars with good quarter window trim.  I'm going to have a large list of one off things I'm going to need in the coming months.  Such as all the rubber stuff for the doors.  I plan on getting the Steele Rubber kit, but that doesn't include the most important pieces...the window channels.  Mine are rock hard and have shrunk 5 sizes.

Thanks for looking and keep checking back.  I hope this build gathers the momentum it needs to get finished for the 50th Anniversary.

You'd think there was a snow storm or something.

(http://i.imgur.com/tzKYXWel.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/kA7TQyNl.jpg)


The process of stripping the hood has begun.  There are a few dents to tend to first, before the chem stripper is applied.

(http://i.imgur.com/MxvRN8ml.jpg)

My dad was tending to the hood while I tackled the interior.

(http://i.imgur.com/irlEDMKl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/eaQFUoLl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/XEMngE7l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/Ml6UVJNl.jpg)

Does anyone know the reasoning behind this, putting the Low Fuel Warning Switch here?  Both my dad and myself are pretty confused by its placement.

(http://i.imgur.com/CK2Zr5ll.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/sauLgF1l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/Xygyesdl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/PZdxFcSl.jpg)

I tried to capture the crazy differnce in color between new and 32 year faded carpet.  It's much more dramatic in person.  New carpet going in, probably will be black in color, maybe a dark gray.  The bluish gray factory color just doesn't do it for me.

(http://i.imgur.com/UVXahuql.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/EkhjplXl.jpg)

Carpet out.  Passenger side foot well jute was soaked.  Don't know why, it's been inside for almost a month and as far as I know, the door seal still works.  Any water getting in the door would have gone out the door bottom.  The car hasn't been driven since 2010 so the soaked insulation has me confused.  Driver's side was pretty dry, but a new hole developed.

(http://i.imgur.com/OSGZThQl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/oNQhBNYl.jpg)

Found this punch card under the driver's seat under the carpet.

(http://i.imgur.com/Fzq2IFsl.jpg)


Next will be to remove all of the factory asphalt material on the floor and begin getting the holes fixed and rust under control.  Then the first chassis mods,  subframe connectors, rocker tie ins, and jacking rails.  Most important being the SFC's because engine removal and door repairs are being put off until those get put in.

Nice work so far. I like seeing someone making progress. My funds have been zero for quite some time. I almost went with that color on my Sport, but green was the way we went. It looks great.

Been busy since last weekend, so there should be more than one update this week.  I'd like to update more but my work schedule doesn't allow me to work on the car, sleep, and update this little sbook.

Pulled all the forward asphalt sound deadening.  What a pain in the butt.  It wasn't hard, just awkward to position myself to use my hammer and various sers.  Logged about 12 hours just pulling all that out, after work.  So I was in the garage from 1:30 til about 4-4:30 AM every night.  Friday being my day off, I got to spend a lot more time sing.  I cannot wait to pull the rear interior out and se some more. /s <-- (that means "end sarcasm" for those who don't speak internet.)

(http://i.imgur.com/dG1zrxGl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/BgH27z5l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/Ev8crTgl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/9UBhthKl.jpg)

Yay holes!  Don't get me wrong, I'm very relieved that it isn't MUCH worse.  I did drive this car in the winter for a few years.  I also jumped it, and slid it, and stopped traffic with localized fog with it.  The fact this car is as straight as it is boggles my mind.  Anyway, onto other things:

(http://i.imgur.com/7O1LzLEl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/pe2OlQ4l.jpg)

As is customary, nest inside of HVAC unit.

(http://i.imgur.com/vxE09a3l.jpg)

Consider this a before image.  Hopefully sooner rather than later, this harness will become one with another harness.  I have some unique and interesting plans for this car.  I just hope the pieces fall together soon, or else this will become a cookie cutter build.


I took a break from sing to take care of one of the 4 million mini-projects this car will need in the coming months.  Installed an aluminum 3 hook quadrant originally slated to be installed in my 90 Mustang GT.  Since that car has since been downgraded to lawn ornament, it no longer needs this.

(http://i.imgur.com/Cfv4sqnl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/5qIdb6Al.jpg)

A few days ago I jacked the car up on the driver side to start getting the underside ready for the SFCs.  I also took a minute to look and plan the jack rails and other stiffening mods.  I straightened the pinch weld where either a slipped jack or bottoming out on something bent it in.  I also couldn't resist opening the door to see how much the car had twisted with just a jack under the front subframe.  Now my hinge bushing are shot, so the door does the whole falls down a quarter inch thing when I open it.  I'll be sure to get a video of before and after the SFCs.  The door popped UP when I opened it.  I didn't expect that.  I thought maybe the door would have some resistance against the striker but not that it would pop up.

My 86 is like that. I've had other cars where the door was hard to open and shut when jacked up. My cougar I can't open or close either door while it's on jack stands. My last 87 bird didn't seem to care at all when it was jacked up. Doors opened and closed like normal.

I think the 87-88 cars must have been slightly stiffer. My Thunderbird didn't really flex at all on jack stands before subframe connectors.

Well I can confirm that.  My 87 felt like a tank compared to my 84.  It didn't handle better but it rode a lot quieter. The steering was heavier too.

Probably explains why the 87-88 cars were a couple hundred pounds heavier.

Back on topic. How are you replacing the rusted floor boards?

Didn't get near as much done this weekend as I had hoped.  But we did start working on the driver's quarter.  Got that pretty well straightened out.  I had to work on a family member's car Saturday, which took a lot longer than I wanted.  Kind of stuck at the moment anyway.  Still trying to find a place or person to help with getting the metal I need for the SFCs.  I'll have a ton to do once those are done.  I don't think I have anything major this coming weekend, so hopefully we'll make some good progress.


They aren't too bad.  Just going to cut out the bad and make patches with sheet metal.

Some good luck came my way this weekend.  I don't have it in my possession yet, but I have found a donor vehicle!  This is a great weight off my shoulders.  I had a moment of giddiness once I found out, like I finally can say "OMG this is actually going to happen!"  Pics coming in a few days, I'm not sure exactly when it is going to get dropped off.

I also have a question concerning the transmission tunnel.  Does anyone know if the Mustang 5 speed transmission hump fits my floor?  I don't want to buy one and it not fit.  I won't need an extra one.  I have a '90 GT and a '91 LX, they are manual and auto respectively.  The LX is getting parted and sent to the crusher.  I might have to take the one off the GT to try it.  If not, I guess I'll just have to cut the opening and figure out a way to better seal the hole to the shift lever coming out of the transmission.

I didn't use anything in addition to the lower shift boot seal and I had no issues. I actually just siliconed it to the floor, forgot to get some bolts for it and forgot all about it.

Does the donor have an Ecoboost?

No boost, at least on this first engine build.  But displacement will be doubled, HP more than doubled.

5.0 I'm guessing?

A 2.3 Ecoboost would be a cool swap to replace the 2.3 Lima.

Donor arrived today!  All the fun stuff can start now.

(http://i.imgur.com/Olo78wfl.jpg)

Doesn't look like much, but it has everything to do that swap right.  For $640 delivered, I can't complain.  I have the engine, all wiring, brake booster, and everything else I need, except for transmission...it's auto.  Not too discouraged though, my car is already 5 speed swapped so I just need a trans and the small wire harness that connects to the body harness.  I was going to get new flywheel and clutch assemblies anyway.


I'd love to do that swap.  But 2015's go for 10k+.  And the new 5.0's are double that.

I didn't realize a wrecked 15+ 2.3 was so expensive.

Is that a Mach 1 or a regular GT?

It's a '99 GT Limited Edition.

Ah. I though it was a Mach 1 because of the wheels.

You could still boost a 4.6 2V. Just saying ;).

Good work so far, I'll be watching from the sidelines.

I wish it were a Mach, it'd save me a bunch of work.  And yes....I could boost a 2V...if I were keeping it a 2V. :burnout:

Anyway, put the battery on charge to get a feel for what electrical quirks the collision created.  To my surprise, it cranked the first attempt with no issues.  After a few hours on charge, fired right up.  Today I got the hood open and made some clearance with the rotating parts and hoses/wires.  Had the wife hop in and moved it to the backyard.  Power steering/brakes worked with no issues, good oil pressure, alternator charges, I feel I got real lucky with this thing. 

Now the wife wants a 99-04 Mustang. :punchballs:

Well if the 2V isn't the final plan then yeah just make it work and don;t worry about boosting it. Any idea what the final engine plan is?

Your wife wanting a 99-04 isn't bad. I my wife and I ended up buying this new off the showroom floor for her:
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa33/thunderjet302/Mustang/DSCN2262.jpg) (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/thunderjet302/media/Mustang/DSCN2262.jpg.html)

The engine plan as of now is option A; use the 99's block and get a C-head Continental engine for the 4V stuff and work out an intake.  The Continental used B-head intakes throughout it's production run with the 4V engine.  They have adapters to use B intakes with C-heads, so that opens up options.  BUT if I can get a Lincoln Aviator for the same price as I got the Mustang, then I'll have option B.  Which is yank the 4.6 4V out of that, refresh the engine, and mate it to whatever 5 speed I end up getting.  Either way it's getting cams and maybe higher compression, depends if whatever block I use needs to be overbored.

Avoid the continental. Almost everything on it is unique to fwd. A good source for 24lb injectors but that's about it.

4V is a good idea. Too bad Coyotes are still expensive.

Sounds like a neat project, I look forward to watching your progress!

Not much has been happening lately.  Thought I'd jump on here to give a quick update.

Finally got all the metal I need to do the SFC's and floor patches.  That's the last time I use my dad's friend.  It shouldn't take a month to get 5 pieces of stock.  But that's what happens when the guy sells the most important pieces I need and have been waiting on for almost a month (the 2"x2").

Work is starting to ramp up for the spring busy season.  I might not get any time to myself after this month until about August.  That itself sucks but is compounded by worsening conditions and tensions rising between management and us on the floor, what else is new.  I've been spending a lot of time trying to figure out what my next move is, I've done the auto tech thing, not for me.  Moved into a warehouse and this one has soured my opinion on working in them.  A big reason I haven't been working on this project or even being on here has been me trying to decide on going to school, sucking it up at this job until my wife is in a better place career wise, or jumping ship and trying a third career path.  It's very stressful thinking about all of it, while also dealing being miserable at work and depression/anxiety out of work.  But anyway...

Missed out on an 03 Aviator.  Was outbid, but I also don't have a lot of cash allotted to getting another donor at the moment.  I have plenty to do with just the Mustang for now, but it would have been more weight off my shoulders knowing I have all I need for the 4V conversion.

The 99 was my first trip into salvage land.  I'm still waiting on getting some form of paperwork stating that the car is now mine for when I take it to the crusher, but honestly, I'm not even sure I'm supposed to get any such paperwork or certificate.  I also picked up the EVTM for the 99.  It's nice to know the format hasn't changed.  When I'm splicing harnesses it'll be nice to not have to "convert" if you will, different layouts between the 84 and 99 EVTM's.

I'm going to start a list and use it as my footer.  The list will be of things that I currently need for this project.  Any help in sourcing these parts would be an astronomical help.  I have like 80% of this project nailed down.  The last 20% is going to be time to do it all and these little things that inevitably will come up.

That's all I have for now.  I'm sorry this isn't really an update but more of a rant.  I don't know if I'll get anything done in the next week or two.  I have a full plate of other projects that need attention.  I have a tractor to finish swapping engines for this early spring we're having.  My brother traded is beater 69 C10 for a mostly done, not quite show truck 68-70 C10, so garage space is a bit limited right now.  My dad and I are also trying to get his 76 Fiat 124 running so that can go outside.  After the Fiat is out, then the rest of my Cougar interior can come out and it'll be full bore on getting the SFCs done and then drive train out.  Of course full bore will mean a few hours a week once work ramps up to 60 hour weeks....ugghhh.  :punchballs:

Missed out on another Aviator, BUT...I got myself a transmission.

(http://i.imgur.com/Vs9PIBhl.jpg)

This is a TR3650 out of a 2004 GT.  Guy said it was rebuilt about 12k miles ago.  We'll see.  Going to tear it down to inspect everything.  I was burned on a T5 from Craigslist before so I'm doing this for my piece of mind.  I think I got a good deal getting the trans, pedals, block plate, wiring, and an MGW shifter for $525.  Rebuild kits aren't too bad for these at $280-$300.  This shifter looks like MGW's race version.  I'll have to email them to see if I can get a lower boot from them as the one I got has ripped and is letting oil get out.


Other than that, got the car up on jack stands, not as high as I would like.  Have to figure a way to get it higher.  While I was jacking the car up, I took some pics to show how much flex the car has.  I measured 1/8" with both driver side wheels off the ground, jacking under the driver front rail.  We'll see how much smaller that gap will be once I get the SFC's in.

(http://i.imgur.com/0lfRFL5l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/YG7aOIWl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/xvRsITGl.jpg)


That's all for now.  Hoping to get the rest of the interior out and get started on the floor this Friday.

Wow. The subframes should take quite a bit of that flex out.

It's been a while. I'm still plugging away at the floor. It's too hot in the garage to be welding, grinding, and trying to be a fab guy. Driver side is 95% done. Good enough until I get the car on it's side to do the underside.

Over the past few weeks, I've learned a few things about the used parts market. Mainly that people selling and buying parts from me, are MUCH easier to deal with that people selling Mark engines. I got a guy selling an engine but no way of removing it, guy selling an engine but wanting a $50 deposit to pull the engine, and both of those guys then trying to sell me the whole car after I get annoyed and waste time. Both are over 2 hours away so I'm not buying a whole car, nor am I driving 2 hours to give $50 only to have to drive back to get the engine. People I tell ya.

So I revised my plans and skipped the Mark VIII engine and bought this 99 Continental engine for $218 pulled from EZ Pull in New Ringgold, PA. I got my C heads! I'll keep checking back there for a Mark VIII and have them pull that. But for now I have my C heads and my 99 2V block that I can use if I can't find a Teksid.

(http://imgur.com/LONIkZIl.jpg)

(http://imgur.com/Oz8dPu5l.jpg)

(http://imgur.com/l1a8xOdl.jpg)
Pile of useless FWD specific stuff.

(http://imgur.com/aaB8XEOl.jpg)
Can you guess which head overheated?

(http://imgur.com/DvGOIDCl.jpg)

(http://imgur.com/6rfx9FKl.jpg)

(http://imgur.com/STIBVTfl.jpg)
It's too bad the block is different.  It's a nice piece.

(http://imgur.com/42GCWUJl.jpg)

(http://imgur.com/lyMCC4Xl.jpg)
You can see the difference in colors better here. Cooling mod on the list.

This is the last major piece I need for this swap.  I have a donor car complete with wiring, a 4.6 specific 5-speed, and now my 4V C-heads.  Everything else I need I can get new and isn't needed, like tubular K-member.  I'm excited for the first start, even though I'm quite a long way from that point.  I can focus more on the car and not getting parts to do the swap now though.

So the 4V "C" heads are going on the 2V block correct?

That's the last resort plan.  I'm hoping to find a Mark engine that isn't owned by some pain in the ass douche who thinks he has the last 4V in existence, or from EZ Pull.  They had a few Mark's in the past year and a half but I wasn't ready for an engine.  Kicking myself for not buying one of them when they were out there.

Engine crisis has been resolved.  I hadn't browsed for any parts for a while and decided what the hell, let me take a quick look.  This came up in nearby areas when searching "cobra" under auto parts on the Philadelphia Craigslist.  $500, you come get it off my floor.  I have vacation coming up next week so I was going to wait until after that to do this.  I'm glad I didn't, I doubt it would have still been there.  Only had to drive for about 8 hours round trip to Maryland to get it.  I don't mind the drive, but it wiped me out for the rest of the day.

96 Cobra engine, complete from intake to exhaust manifolds.  All the parts I was worried about finding in time are on the engine.  My Mark VIII has a new intake, or if I decide to not go that route, I could sell and recoup most of my money.  Forged 8-bolt crank for the Cougar, as well as RWD Teksid block, timing cover and everything else I need.  Guy I got it from was a cool dude, but wasn't a hands on car guy, he buys his speed, doesn't build it.  He told me this engine might be set up for a blower.  So I had to take the valve covers off to see if it had cams....my biggest remaining expense.  Well it doesn't have aftermarket cams....nor the 96-98 Cobra intake cams I would have liked to have for the Lincoln, but it has 03/04 intake cams, which were the same across the board, Terminator/Mach 1/Marauder/Aviator etc.  Still a score but not the greatest since I'm not going blower at this stage....of course by the time that stage starts, the F150 Coyotes might be cheap enough to throw one of those in....who knows.  I have to run the numbers on the Conti C head cams I have, some sites claim the 99 Conti's had identical heads from the 99 Cobra, cams and all, so that would be nice for the Lincoln.  Also the guy said it might have pistons and rods...which would totally make me happy.  We'll see as I tear this down in the next few months.

Here are some quick pics:

(http://imgur.com/gXAMywKl.jpg)

(http://imgur.com/WZODXVvl.jpg)

F150 Coyotes run ~$3000 here.

Same here, about $3000 for an engine.  But with the Coyote, it's a lot more involved to get it to work.  There's the ECM and sensor pack that runs $1500, swap headers that run $500-$1000, intake cams to get it to Mustang spec, and all the other odds and ends to make it work.  It's crossed my mind.  But as of getting this engine, I have everything I need to get my car to run and drive, minus maintenance items (tune up, clutch kit, etc.).  Even if I didn't put another dime into this car, I could get it to run.  And I'm under $1500.  It'd be fun, but with pistons, aftermarket cams, and a tune, I'll be at Coyote Mustang level power.  That's the next step though, Coyote Cougar.

The big problem with the Coyote swap isn't so much the engine cost as much as the cost of the control pack/swap parts. You can supercharge a 4.6 4V at that point and be ahead.

Replying to a very old post, but I cringe whenever I see a front  license plate on a new mustang.  Why oh why?

Because Illinois law requires it. Plus it already had it mounted :(

With my wife's 50th anniversary, tossed the license plate and the plate holder in the trunk and told her to simply claim that her husband hasn't gotten to it yet if she ever gets pulled over.  The dealer almost installed it and I said that the deal was off if he did!.

What is wrong with us that we're working on 30 year old iron and our wives are driving beautiful new machines :shakehead

Well it already had it mounted before we picked it up. We ordered the car too. If I remove it then there are holes in the bumper cover :hick:

The Thunderbird is not my daily driver. A 2011 Focus is. The 30 year old iron is just a hobby car to keep me occupied.

I've been steadily working on the car.  I just get too lost with everything to dospoogeent it steadily.  I'll do a series of updates over the next few nights to get caught back up to the current status.

Key points:

• Plan and timeline ironed out and finalized (let's just say it's going to be a mad rush)
• All major components have been bought except for a tuner which I'm waiting on finding a tuner to tell me which tuner they use....ha
• Money has been tight and a major life changing event is on the horizon, so things were cut, I'm not happy about it.
• Prior to June 1st the car MUST be road worthy or else no Carlisle....like not even to spectate, it means that much to me to get this car into that show.

So with that out of the way, my timeline is as follows:
  I have one month to get the engine fired up inside of the car.  That leaves two months to get the car street legal.  I am, at best, two weeks away from having the engine mounted in the car.

Now on to some sweet new parts pics:

(http://i.imgur.com/UeS5D4Al.jpg)
Maximum Motorsports extreme-duty rear LCA's and Fox CatBird C/C plates.
Also a hint at my life changing event, 10 points for correct guess.

(http://i.imgur.com/tV9R3c9l.jpg)
Clutch kit with chromoly flywheel, disc and bearing kit are questionable quality, pressure plate is Valeo brand, which is the same PP that Ford sources for their King Cobra clutch kits.

(http://i.imgur.com/IVsnj0il.jpg)
UPR Chromoly k-member for 96-04 Mustangs with spring perches.

Last but not least, the engine rebuild components, no pic.  I got Perfect Circle rings, King main and rod bearings, Victor Reinz gasket kit, and bolts.  For those curious, the minimum amount of money spent to rebuild a Mod motor "properly" is in the neighborhood of $2000, not including any machine work, if so inclined.  It can easily cost you $1000 to time a 4v alone!  I'm taking a risk by not buying a timing kit and replacing every single fastener with ARP stuff, but I'm not made of money and the true cost only became clear after I started looking for parts.  My educated gamble says I'll be fine with the stock bottom end, assuming that the main bolts and rod bolts haven't been torqued more than 5 times, which according to a Ford engineer, the TTY bolts can handle.  Fingers crossed.

As I said above, I'm not happy with some of the cuts I had to make.  The clutch kit and flywheel were $300.  If it makes it to Carlisle and back, I'll be happy.  If it dies 1 mile after that, it's a $300 mistake on my part.  I can't spend $1000 on a clutch and flywheel.  I had to cut the long tube headers, coil over suspension, finished body work and paint, full interior, and the list goes on.  I didn't want to buy a K-member twice, but this is the only k-member that I could use stock A-arms, springs, and doesn't mess with the wheelbase.  The MM K-member costs over 3 times as much after including all the required parts.  Hell my order for LCA's and CC plates was almost $700.  I know it's quality.  I'm not complaining that their prices are too high.  I will be upgrading down the road.  I just can't build my dream car right now. It sucks I even had to buy those LCA's, because I'm going IRS in the future and these LCA's are Fox CatBird specific.

I've been against taking a work-in-progress to a car show, but the 50th will be the last big meet in my eyes.  I'll get over it.  It's unique and needs to be shared.

I have those Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear lower control arms in my Thunderbird. They are really nice pieces. Worth the money ;).

Yeah, that's why I went with them.  They look really good and I'm already happy with them, even though it'll be a while before I get to try them out.  There aren't many choices when it comes to LCA's for our cars, and even fewer with spherical bearings AND sway bar mounts.  I'm sticking with stock uppers and rubber, just need to find bushings for the UCA's.  I'm ordering the MM kit and tool for the rubber housing bushings.

As far as I know only the axle bushings are available in rubber for the UCA's.  You can still get new Fox UCA's with new bushings in them.  On MM's site they have the new rubber bushings that install in the rear end and they say they come from Ford or a "trusted source" and they both get them from the same manufacturer.  What I want to know is if the body side bushings are the same from a Mustang to a Bird/Cougar would MM be willing to contact their source for the Mustang UCA's and see if they would sell the bushings being our control arms are longer.  May be worth a call to MM.  I have Global West units in my car with hemispherical rod ends at the body and rubber bushings in the rear end so I am not in need but I have always wondered.

Great project by the way and keep focused on the project at hand.  Go for the 4V motor naturally aspirated for now and then add forced induction later as the stock configuration with some boost make some killer numbers.  My buddy's stock Mach 1 makes over 600 at the rear wheels with about 9 psi.

UPR makes a spherical housing bushing.  I just don't know if using the UPR's and a pair of CHE's spherical uppers would allow for enough twist to eliminate bind.  I trust what MM says about using the stock uppers with rubber on both ends when using spherical lowers.  If I can't find any upper bushings on the body side and if mine are trash, I might be forced to get a pair of CHE's.  Of course I might have to go that route anyway depending where my pinion angle sits once the 3650 and shortened driveshaft are in.

Here are a few pics of the engine tear down.  It's nothing special except that there are more chains and cams that most here are used to seeing.

(http://i.imgur.com/gKTZflFl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/YwZyk3il.jpg)
The cross hatch in the bores looks almost fresh.  The guy said the engine could have been redone and it looks plausible that it was.  I might have gotten away with not getting rings, but they were reasonably priced so why not?

(http://i.imgur.com/6SufVsEl.jpg)
Pistons weren't all that bad.  I could have cleaned them with just brake clean and some rubbing.  But instead I let them soak...

(http://i.imgur.com/I4SRBcyl.jpg)
...for about a week in PineSol.  They came out like this after 2 or 3 minutes of scrubbing with a maroon scotch brite pad each.

Next, leave it to the internet to find a solution that sounds too weird to be true.  I've tried grease.  I also bought a blind hole bearing puller kit (not specifically for this project, but I knew I'd need one).  Neither worked...but this did...
(http://i.imgur.com/CSfpbFml.jpg)
Stuck pilot bearing?  Jam bread in the cavity and use a hammer and alignment tool!  I couldn't believe it worked.

(http://i.imgur.com/ectrkZtl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/wbQ5jsql.jpg)
I got the oil pan painted and bolted on temporarily.

I'm waiting on powder for the timing cover and intake.  I have the powder for the valve covers and the clear to go over the base powder of the timing cover and intake.  I still have to come up with a cooling solution for the driver side head.

Bonus - I found out once I disassembled the heads that I have a unique situation going on with the cams.  I have matching 96-98 Cobra exhaust cams, but 1 96-98 Cobra intake, and 1 03-04 Cobra/Mach 1/Marauder/Aviator intake cam.  Upon further disassembly, I found shims under all the lash adjusters, or lifters if you will.  From what I can gather, I have custom ground cams.  Sweet, but from who?  Each cam has "Blower Left/Right Intake/Exhaust" engraved into them.  I'm excited but I hope them being blower cams won't hurt my performance too too much.  The guy that sold me the engine said that the Mustang it was installed into pulled like crazy N/A.  So fingers crossed.  Hopefully the tuner I choose will be able to dial it in without me having much info on the cams.

Great progress on the engine tear down and those cams would have me scratching my head as well.  Wonder if you could post up pictures on one of the modular Mustang sites and see if anyone on there would have a clue.

On my Bird I'm running Griggs Racing spherical ended LCA's with the Global West UCA's.  My guess is I don't have a lot of bind but the noise translation is a little higher than it would be with bushing style LCA's.

I've got MOOG bushings in my upper arms. I've got these FRPP bushings in the axle: https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-4050-B

This would also work, from MOOG: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/K8637/02936.oap?year=1987&make=Ford&model=Thunderbird&vi=1140253&ck=Search_02936_1140253_3405&pt=02936&ppt=C0106

I measured the lift on the lobes, that's how I came to the conclusion they are regrinds.  The duration has me concerned.  I don't have a degree kit to check it.  I might be able to get my hands on one, but that would have to be in the next 2 weeks so I doubt that will happen.

Hopefully the car will run good enough on the stock 99 GT tune that I'll be able to break the clutch in before the tuner gets their hands on it.

Thanks for the link.  I haven't been able to find a bushing for the arms.  I'll have to cross reference the Moog number to see what else is available.  I'm not too fond of Moog anymore.  Their quality severely declined in the last few years.

thunderjet302,

Where did you find the body side rubber bushings for the stock UCA's?  Several folks on here would greatly benefit from that source.

Ain't that the truth? I was sorely dissappointed with the early Mustang kit I used to rebuild the Comet frontend(uses identical parts)... The lower control arms needed a chincy little washer/spacer(included) to make the original stabilizer bar fit so-so and the taper was wrong on upper ball joint pin that fit into spindle... Now in process of rebuilding the Cobra Jet steering plus adding P/S, will do suspension AFTER I find better control arms than Moog supplies...


That Ford Racing kit is available on ebay for around $40 with free shipping...

On Rockauto they list the body side as "Rear Upper to Frame".  Poking around I found ACDELCO 45G11077.  That is only the body side.  The Moog K8637 is a kit for both bushings, so 2 would be needed.  The ACDelco has a lifetime warranty and it's super easy to claim the warranty through Rockauto.  I've had to do it with my wife's Cobalt.  Just keep the order number, claim warranty on Rockauto.com, buy a new part, ship the defective one back, and they reimburse you.

I trust ACDelco quality more than Moog, so if I can reuse the stock uppers, that is probably the route I'll take.  Ford Racing kit for the housing and the ACDelco bushings for the arms.

That MOOG kit has the upper control arm body side and axle housing bushing. You need two kits, one for each rear upper arm. I used the upper body side bushing from the MOOG kit and the FRPP bushing in the axle. I gave the axle side bushing from the MOOG kit to a friend with a Mark VII



That sounds like a plan. With the Maximum Motorsports lower arms I would go with what Jack, from Maximum Motorsports, recommends and run the stock uppers with rubber bushings.

Today I got down to the garage to finish stripping the engine bay to start paint prep and do some repairs.

(http://i.imgur.com/gE7ipfDl.jpg)

Since I had to remove the column and pedal assembly, I took some time to test fit the New Edge pedals so see how they'd fit.  As you can see with the below pics, the two assemblies are quite different.

(http://i.imgur.com/un32FzTl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/KVvIvEPl.jpg)

Luckily Ford didn't change how they mounted that much.

(http://i.imgur.com/6JWKiFql.jpg)

They bolted right in.  Only mods I'll have to do will be to ream out the holes for the hydrobooster.

(http://i.imgur.com/Nf0Od81l.jpg)

This weekend hopefully I'll get the donor stripped so I can test fit the steering rack and column.  The column will most likely be where I'll have issues.  Here's hoping the issues won't be that great.


So I'd like to ditch the prop rod, and I prefer not to use a gas strut solution.  Does anyone have or know where I could get a set of sprung hood hinges?  I'm kicking myself because the last Fox Cougar with them the u-pull-it I go to had, I passed on them because I didn't have the time or help to attempt to get them off.  Then the next trip out, all the Fox Birds, Cats, and Ponies were gone.  Ebay had a pair of Mark VII hinge springs that look to add on to the non-sprung hinges, but I don't know if those would have worked on my car and the price was too high for a gamble.  Thanks in advance.

The Mark VII add-on springs WILL work on your hinges. That's what I'm running on mine and they work fantastically well. But I will say that the hood doesn't go up as high as if there were a prop rod or the 1987-88 hinges. Otherwise, perfect solution.

Thanks.  I will keep that in mind if I can't find a set of hinges.

Been plugging away.  Not looking good for my goal of June 1st.  Just way to much to do and the weather hasn't helped.  I'm not too pleased with my dad at the moment.  I've been saying we needed to get a rotisserie for well over a year, closer to two probably.  He's also helping his brother with his '70 Olds 4-4-2.  He dropped the bomb last weekend that my car will be going up on the rotisserie first, then the Olds.  We're at 2 and a half months....and now he wants to put it up.  Yeah well.  I can finish the floor and gussets a lot easier.

I played around with the new edge seats.  I've read it a million times...they fit with changing the seat tracks.  Sure...except when I do it right?  Here's the passenger side bolted in.

 (http://i.imgur.com/2Ce0AXrl.jpg)

Apparently...power lower buckets don't bolt to manual seat tracks.  This goes for Fox Mustang's as well, as I have a set of manual Fox seats.  So I have to figure something out there.  I want to keep power, but would have sacrificed it for ease of installation.  I don't want to chance buying a power seat track from eBay only to find it won't fit either, or even worse, the mechanisms are shot.  I have a plan to get the New Edge seat in.  Just have to find the time.

More pressing is figuring out how to mount the steering column.  Which is going to involve hacking the New Edge dash frame, my dash frame, and probably the dash itself.

Next I have to figure out the wiring.  I have every single wire removed from the donor, as seen here.

(http://i.imgur.com/2O8F7ZLl.jpg)

Most of that is getting removed.  I don't need the airbag stuff, I don't have time to keep the ABS/TC stuff, and a lot of the emission stuff is getting axed.  Essential items are the engine/trans wiring (duh), the FPDM (fuel pump driver module, this is a returnless system), fuse box, and interior fuse box.  I have to lay the new wiring out and go through both EVTM's that I have to merge the 99 and 84 harnesses...yay.

On a positive note, I am about to finish final assembly of the engine.  I have a few more gaskets to buy and two more things to powder coat.  Tonight, I finished the valve covers.  I did the coil covers about a week ago to test the color and baking procedure.  They came out great, except for a few spots no one will ever see.  I blame the cheap gun my friend let me use.  ProTip - if powder coating semi-professionally or trying to become a pro....spend the money for a really good gun.

Pics!

(http://i.imgur.com/Nfzf5zll.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/WPgs0ZZl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/JLTFhEIl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/ubVBd1dl.jpg)


This weekend, hopefully I'll be able to finish the engine, get the car on the rotisserie, move the engine to the lower garage to mate it with the trans, mount the pair on a cart and do a test fit.  I need to find time to yank the starter off the donor too.  Then I'll be able to get the oil system primed and perhaps even get the engine fired on the floor.  I'll video that, most definitely.

That's just...crazy. Trying to hit the deadline, I mean--everything else is frickin' awesome. Having the ability to do so many things is a huge asset, although I'm sure it's becoming a burden also. But yeah, outstanding work.

So are there not extra holes in the bottom of the seat frames to allow the manual track to bolt up? How about drilling holes in the track to fit the existing seat frame holes? I ran into none of this when I bolted the SN95 seats to the stock Cougar power seat tracks, that's why I'm asking.

The manual seat buckets are different from the power buckets.  The manual buckets and tracks are flat, or the holes are all on the same plane.  The power bucket holes are on different levels and the bucket frame has a recess for the height mechanism.  I'll have to get a few pictures to show the differences.  All my excitement for having 99 Cobra seats in my car turned to frustration.  Like I said, a million times, just switch seat tracks.  It won't be that difficult to mount the new seat, but time consuming.  Two new holes for the rear mounts, and cut the front seat support with studs out of the donor and weld it to my seat support.  Again, a picture will better illustrate what I mean.

So here are a few pictures showing the issue with the seat bolting to the track.

(http://i.imgur.com/8REDtV0l.jpg)

The top is bolted flush, the bottom is a good inch, inch and a half off.

(http://i.imgur.com/U6GMNWhl.jpg)

I could take that space up with washer or a custom made spacer, but anyone who has done this swap will tell you that the seat mounts high after swapping tracks.  The passenger side feels high, but I honestly don't have anything in the car to compare it to.  I may try to put a power passenger track in down the road.  I think going from manual SN95 seat to power Fox track might be an easier conversion.  For now, my wife can feel like a big person.  I'm 6' tall, not the tallest person by any means, but the way I sit, I'd have the wheel in my crotch and my head brushing the headliner if the seat sat any higher than factory.  I want to retain the power so I can adjust the height.

(http://i.imgur.com/S5w7Xnil.jpg)

The other issue is the slide handle interferes with the power panel on the seat.  More of a none issue as, if I decided to use my manual track, the new seat covers would allow me to delete the panel.

I think that'll be the goal for this weekend.  Try to get the engine together and mated to the TR3650, test fit the K-member/steering rack+shaft, and get the column mocked up so I can center the seat and get the new mounts in place.

Interesting. I did not experience that at all...the passenger seat in the convertible has a manual seat track. I did remove the joystick control from the front of the seat when the seats got recovered. But I had no problem bolting the seat to the manual track. IIRC the seats in mine are from a '95 Mustang GT. Are you using newer seat than that? It could explain things...

Everything, except the engine and transmission, is from my 99 GT donor.  Everywhere I've read says unbolt the Fox tracks and bolt the SN95/New Edge seat to the Fox tracks.  I haven't come across a single account of the seats needing spacers.

Took the day off of work.  I had enough of their BS for the week so I decided to get some work done instead.  Started out doing some powder coating.  I did the first layer of my timing cover.

(http://i.imgur.com/dR9rmPBl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/AjlfGOel.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/0alAIc7l.jpg)

Came out pretty good.  It's too bad the clear top coat will cut the shine down considerably.  If I had prepped the cover better, it probably would have better clarity on the flats.  The upper intake will have better prep.  This part will be covered with a belt and pulleys so it won't be so clearly seen.  It's a chrome powder from www.powderbuythepound.com (http://"http://www.powderbuythepound.com").  I bought the Ford Blue Wrinkle there as well.  I knew the chrome wouldn't be anywhere near the mirror shine of real chrome, so I'm not disappointed with this.  It's going to give the timing cover and upper intake just a little more pop.

Then I decided to tackle the driver seat.  I can say this wasn't near as bad as I thought it was going to be.  I hope my plan for the steering column goes as smoothly.  Once this and the steering column are finished, the interior will be done minus the wiring.  I'll dive into that once the car is on the rotisserie.  I just have to finish all the welding inside and under the car before I begin the process of losing my mind dealing with wiring spaghetti, and so my dad can paint the underside.

(http://i.imgur.com/pRqypWJl.jpg)

It hurt just a bit cutting into the brace that I had just finished welding back into place(and together, thanks to my dad for cutting it out in two pieces).

(http://i.imgur.com/A1zF1ogl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/Fam68Qql.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/uxyyX71l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/YqsxYN2l.jpg)

Original mounting hole on the left.  I ended up tpuppies a bit more out just to make sure there is enough clearance.  The hole didn't make it through and was cut in half then welded shut.  Hopefully the carpet won't give me any fits.

(http://i.imgur.com/KnjB1JJl.jpg)

This is where I left off tonight.  My back and knees started killing me.  I just have a few more pieces of sheet metal to fab up and it'll be ready to be coated internally.  I put the seat in and sat in it for a bit.  It feels solid and the height feels good.  Sitting in it for the first time in almost a year brought back memories and hopefully will help give me motivation to push on.  Some days it feels like it'll get done and others feel like it's just too much.

Just watch the back of the seat frame and make sure it does not contact the subframe.  I have this problem with my seats which is keeping me from lowering them but I think my Griggs upper sub frames sit higher than yours by about 1/2" to 3/4" judging by how far they come up into the front seat mount cross member that you cut.  Its on my list of things to do this summer as my buddy that welds has a normal job now so I can talk him into welding stuff for me on the weekends.

Finished the welding on the front seat cross member.  The front pads sit night and level.

(http://i.imgur.com/l19QVdJl.jpg)

The rear is up next.  I have the floor marked where the holes will need to be drilled.  I drilled out the rear pad reinforcement plate from the donor.  I just have to drill the holes, cut out the section of the reinforcement plate that the frame runs through, and plug weld the plate onto my floor.  This section of the floor is surprisingly similar between the two cars.

(http://i.imgur.com/jMSP7xzl.jpg)

Aerocoupe, thanks for the heads up with the rear of the seat.  Judging by this pic, I think it'll have enough room for no interference.

(http://i.imgur.com/NqWvXkdl.jpg)

Also reamed out the holes for the hydro-booster and got that fit up.

(http://i.imgur.com/OB6k0Opl.jpg)

And a pic of the '99 pedal assembly bolted into my car and to the hydro-booster.

(http://i.imgur.com/KweXHbll.jpg)

Then, to finish off the day, I put the driver seat and center console in to do a quick mock up for the steering column.

(http://i.imgur.com/yKVe4FBl.jpg)

The angle is wrong, but with the dash shell set in place, it looks like there will be plenty of room to bring the column to a better angle.  This is my goal for the end of the week.  Once the column is mounted and fit with the dash frame, all of the interior metal fab will be done, and we can focus on getting the car inverted to finish the subframe connectors and get the underside prepped and painted.

I had to strip the timing cover yesterday.  The chrome powder cured fine.  Something funny happened with the clear coat.  The finish came out with a wrinkle texture to it.  The cover looked like it was cheaply spray canned.  I have to try again as soon as my dad gets it re-glassbeaded.  Hopefully it comes out better or else it will be going together ugly.  Next weekend I want to fire the engine up, probably on my garage floor.  Should be good times.

You're lucky to have your dad to help you out. Nice progress.

Got the column mounted.  I still have some bracing to do.  While I was working on that, my dad got the upper half of the firewall painted.

Also got the driveshaft length figured out.  For those interested, a mod motor installed with a 94-04 style k-member, attached to a Tremec 3650, requires a driveshaft 3/4" shorter than the one I pulled out, or 48 1/2".  The rear will come out in the coming days.

With the driveshaft figured out and the steering column fab work mostly done, it's time to get the car on its side.  While that's going on, the engine needs to be fully assembled and moved to the lower garage to get attached to the transmission.  The last parts to be removed from the donor are the steering shaft firewall pass-through bearing and the starter with associated wiring.  Hopefully by next Sunday night, I can turn the key and breathe life into this beast.

After it fires up, for just a minute, I can get the wiring sorted out and start laying it in the car.  Once the underside and engine bay are painted, it'll be a matter of getting everything into the car.  Engine and trans first, then wiring, suspension, interior, so on...it'll be tight.

Man that's a tight schedule. No envy here LOL. Thanks for the updates, I hope we can keep encouraging you.

She lives....

Motor in and fired up?

Not quite.

[video=youtube_share;k5U9wwwIf0E]https://youtu.be/k5U9wwwIf0E[/video]

Fired it up on the "Cobra Cart."  Now onto finishing the underside we can drop the body onto the cart.  Then it's a good month of wiring, tpuppies the harness down and merging it with my 84 harnesses.

That is just pretty  cool man.

Awesome, sounds great!

Had some time today.  Got the rear section of the rotisserie hooked up.  Tomorrow the rear comes out.  While I was at it, I did a little test fit to show my dad that, indeed, this engine will fit.

(http://i.imgur.com/efZpPDcl.jpg)

Just have to contend with the sway bar mounts.  This gets me excited.

I would think that the physical part of the engine swap would be just like putting one into a Fox Body Mustang?

Can't you just drop the engine in from the top?

Yeah, the swap is the same as a Fox Mustang, with it's own quirks.  For me, it's going to be easier to drop the body onto the cart.  I don't have lift brackets and there isn't a place that makes me feel comfortable attaching chains to lift the engine and transmission.  My hoist doesn't go high enough to clear the radiator support with the amount of tilt I have to work with either.  After I remove the valve covers, the engine should clear the sway bar mounts.  This transmission is a beast as well, so wrestling the trans to mount it to the engine laying on my side is out of the question.

If they have access to a lift most of the modular guys just drop the k-member out of the car with the engine and trans attached and lift the car off of it.  This is how Ford supposedly does it but I have never seen them do it just read the service procedure for R&R'ing a motor.

I finally remembered where I saw the sway bar relocation kits:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-Swaybar-Relocation-Kit-C83.aspx

Those kits look to move the sway bar forward and not relocate the mounts to under the frame rail like on the SN95.  My k-member doesn't move the wheels forward.  I'll remember to look into those when I decide to upgrade to the MM k-member.

Yeah, it's easier to remove the engine by lifting the body off.  While we don't have a lift, the car is stripped enough to be able to use an engine hoist on the bumper reinforcement mounts, or even using the front rotisserie unit.  Once the underside and engine compartment are painted, I expect the engine to be mounted in less than an hour.

Read Post #15 & #16

http://forums.corral.net/forums/member-build-up-projects/1890402-coyote-swap-into-89-fox-convertible.html

I haven't updated this in 2 months.  I stepped away from this to try and concentrate on getting it done.  I gave it my best shot, but it was just too much to get done.  I'll start throwing some pics and talking about what I've been doing.  I just wanted to get this thing bumped back to the top and admit defeat.  I'll be plugging away at the car when I have time.

I'd like to have it moving under its own power in the next month or so...before we move.  Mid-July or early August we leave for South Carolina.  I don't know how long after we leave I'll be able to bring the car down.

I came across a solution for our door checks.  My driver side was rotted completely off.  The door wouldn't stay open to save its life.  It would even close up hill.  I noticed the 99 check was similar in shape.  I don't remember if our checks have a 2-step design or if the check only holds the door at full open.  The Mustang has this 2-step design, but unfortunately, our hinge roller only engages past the first step.  Still better that having floppy doors.

(http://i.imgur.com/vUjwTj3l.jpg)
Before

(http://i.imgur.com/xG3qXLrl.jpg)
The Mustang check

(http://i.imgur.com/6pVH9DZl.jpg)
Installed

(http://i.imgur.com/z9cF3jMl.jpg)
At full open


Not the easiest thing to do, but if you're going to have the fender and door off the car for any reason, it's worth doing in my eyes.  These checks are plentiful and new enough to not be rotted off.  Plus I see in the future, since you know, Mustang, these will be made by the aftermarket.

To swap them over, there is one rivet on our check and two on the Mustang check.  Once drilled out, just remove the two bolts holding each to their respective hinges, and bolt the Mustang one to your car.

All I can say is the timeline has changed but by no means have you been defeated.  You would just have to throw up your hands and quit all together to call it a defeat.  What you decided to undertake in the timeframe you allotted was insane to begin with but we are all a little twisted to modify a Bird or Cat so take that with a grain of salt.  Had you been working on a car with a huge aftermarket support base this would have been a different story.  Keep up the solid work and now that you have removed the insane timeline take a moment to look back at what you have accomplished since the start of this which in my opinion is one hell of a lot of really solid work.  You have now afforded yourself to look at your build and decide what you really want to do being that you have more time to complete the project.

The biggest mistake on my Bird was rushing the interior to make the '99 World Ford Challenge.  Still took 1st in the car show but I still think the door panels look like  and I am finally going to do something about it and address the py job of installing the speakers.

The tip on the door checks is awesome by the way and thanks for posting that up!

I agree with Aerocoupe. It's a big project and you have come a long way, rushing things for a deadline usually ends up with being disappointed in some way with the final result. If you keep at it with the same ambition up until this point you will get there.

I have been following along but missed your sway bar issue, not sure if you have it figured out but I ended up mounting it under the rails and moving it forward to clear everything.
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?33763-My-85-TBird/page6 post 59

Thanks for the words of encouragement.  I'm ok with it now.  I just wanted to be apart of that show.  10 years ago I saw the car that began my infatuation with these cars and talked to the man behind it.  I told him I'd be there for the 50th.  It was nice getting to talk to Eric in person for only the 2nd time, but I would have loved to be apart of the group that showed up.

If no more big Cougar meets ever happen, I guess I'll have to crash some Mustang shows.  After all my car will be more Mustang than half of the cars that show up lol.  Hopefully the move goes smoothly and we're settled in by next summer.  I'd like to attend my first Mustang Week in Myrtle Beach next year with the Cobra Kitty.

Awesome seeing you again. Apologies if I seemed distant, just had too much to see and a lot of things going on simultaneously. That's an overwhelming show!

After talking with you, guess the only thing I can say is: Don't kick yourself about not having it done. That was a truly admirable goal but  if time just didn't go and speed up the last few months. It caught up with everyone else too. That car's gonna be something else when it's done, and it gets done when life allows it. You have a lot coming up in your life and this is going to take a back seat for awhile, but when you're comfy and the stars align correctly you'll get back on it just fine. Just wish you were moving closer my way because I'd love to help you with it!

My offer still stands too...love to contribute something to the project. Say the word and I'll do my best.

Awesome work. I'd love to 32v swap my '84 Stang.


Keep it up! :)

Getting the steering column in was fun.  Took a few hours to come up with a design to hold the column in place.  A few more hours in and we have this, the finished column bracket:

(http://i.imgur.com/HkiejAUl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/Amg4Tqil.jpg)

At first it flexed quite a bit.  I tied into the A-pillar by cutting a factory brace to size where it intersected my bracket.  This helped but still too loose.  So I also tied into the pedal mounting bolt.  Still flexes when you lean onto it, but I think it'll be good.  Won't matter much if I decide to do a dash swap down the road.

(http://i.imgur.com/vjUTxkVl.jpg)

Here's the bracket mounted in the car.

Once I get rolling on the build again, the plan is to put the dash frame in and run the dash wiring.  I have all the loom and clips stripped off the front interior harnesses so I can route them much easier.  I'll tape them up once they're routed as best as they can be.

This is the work we did to the bottom.  The before:

(http://i.imgur.com/1PtgCXdl.jpg)

We stripped what we could and painted the bottom.

(http://i.imgur.com/sjcoDxBl.jpg)

This is just to protect the metal from whatever surface rust it would have to contend with.  I don't trust this with long term rust prevention.

(http://i.imgur.com/2bDCKNAl.jpg)

Here you see how I ran the fuel line(bottom of image).  It's hard to run a protected line when the original path is changed with the addition of through-floor sub-frame connectors.

(http://i.imgur.com/tSxgWf4l.jpg)

I used the '99 fuel filter setup.  This comes off the fuel pump and uses the '99 filter.  There is plenty of room with the rear installed.

(http://i.imgur.com/eHu2FIFl.jpg)

Here is the fuel tank.  Props to my dad(who works as an insurance adjuster for a body shop) for scoring this NEW fuel tank for.....$15!!!!  He just had to paint it...whatever.  Here you see how I ran the wiring and fuel line.  The return was plugged with some marine grade shrink wrap.  The original vent runs to the "fuel tank pressure sensor."  The vent will run to the charcoal canister, which I mounted in the factory '99 location.  From there, a T-fitting allows the vapors to run up to the front to the EVAP Vent solenoid.  The purge solenoid will vent to right behind the canister.

I researched how to eliminate the EVAP system on these newer EEC-V systems, but apparently they are essential for trim functionality.  The only way the EEC-V trims fuel usage is with the EVAP system being fully functional and most tuners don't know where to look in the tuning files to eliminate the EVAP.  Most guys who delete the EVAP system in their New-Edge Mustangs complain about drivabilityissues.  My hope is to get the EVAP to function good enough to allow proper trim functionality.

(http://i.imgur.com/fXPpVFrl.jpg)

Here is the tank installed with the fuel line connected to the '99 filter assembly.

I didn't get a picture of the fuel pump modifications.  Let's just say that "returnless" isn't returnless.  The late model fuel pump module has a pressure relief and "return" line built in.  The pressure relief is self-explanatory.  The return line was a small tube that allowed fuel, above a certain pressure, to be routed back into the fuel tank without causing aeration.  I tried my best to attach the '99 fuel pump and pressure relief/"return" line to the '84 module.  I managed to make it quite compact.  It fits in the factory hole.  I had to use the '99 fuel pump as the "returnless" system uses PWM (pulse width modulation) to deliver desired fuel pressure.  The factory pump (even upgraded to a high performance pump) could not deliver the  "on-off" reliability of a pump designed to use PWM.  Walboro does not offer a pump to replace 99-04 fuel pumps, so using a 255 LPH pump like all the 2.3T guys do was out of the question.  This should suit my needs until I decide to turbo or Coyote the car....or both.  If I ever need to replace the fuel pump, it'll just need the '99-04 pump.

Keep in mind that a lot of these mods were decided upon when the car had a deadline.  While it's nice to have only a single fuel tube run up to the engine compartment, apparently it isn't the most efficient or easiest system to use with high horsepower engines.  Most higher HP 4.6 guys return to....return style fuel systems.  But for my needs of the tight deadline I had, it would have been easier/cheaper to make the '99 EEC think it was still in a '99 and not an '84 with a '96 4V swapped in.  I just hope this setup works for the time being.  I don't know whether or not the stock fuel pump can handle 400+ hp.  Not to say that my engine produces that, but I know for a fact that cams wake these engines up.  320hp stock can easily turn to 400hp with just cams.  I don't know, and won't know how aggressive these reground cams are until after the move and I find a tuner willing to work with the car to see it to it's potential without knowing its exact specifications.  A big reason I went 4V was because of how they perform with mods.  I just wish Ford would have had the wherewithal to made the GT a 4V in '99 and have the Cobra be a track monster, kind of like the current GT350.  This engine is still rare enough to have the appeal it does for swaps like mine, but costs too much to be viable.  The Coyote is the new Ford "goto."  I remember the days Ford offered a "kit" to install a 4.6 into a hot rod or swap project.  No more as the Coyote seems to be their main focus.  If they still offered the 4.6 kits, I might have made my Carlisle goal.  I digress as I still feel this is the best route I could take for my car.  I'll have the reliability of a newer car with the amenities of said newer car, but the chassis and nostalgia of a car I grew up with.  A car that miss driving dearly.

255 lph Ford Focus SVT pump is what you need and it drops right in.

https://k-mansparts.com/ford-mustang-focus-255-lph-returnless-fuel-pump-m-pfs-204-detail.htm

What did you end up painting the underside with? Regular paint?

It's Rust-Oleum  semi-gloss black.  It's just to have some protection.  Later on I'll do it properly.

As for the fuel pump, thanks for the suggestion.  I'll keep it in mind if my pump dies.

Here are a few pics of the car getting it's temporary color change.  This was the weekend prior to Memorial Day weekend.

(http://i.imgur.com/DrVz8V1l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/bQiKREsl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/2NmzxcXl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/YBTCGSWl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/RkYNNd6l.jpg)


Once I had the fuel line run, I threw in the rear.  It was at this point that I took a step back and said, "nope, not happening."  I still have to figure out where to run the vapor line and how to run the brake line to the back.  I still need to decide on a brake hose to go from body to rear.  The '84 setup might interfere with the passenger side tail pipe.  So I'm looking for suggestions on a brake hose that will work and not be too long, like the truck hoses.  It needs to come down from the center of the car to the center of the rear.

(http://i.imgur.com/Zlj3XSLl.jpg)

I'm using Fox shocks with the brackets inverted.  When I get around to it, I'll build myself a set of Chuck mounts.  This should work just to have the car mobile until I can get it down south.

Use the stock Fox 8.8 rear end brake line setup. It is hard lined to a fitting that mounts in the drive shaft tunnel just above the pinion. From there a soft line goes to the rear end and the hard lines that run along the axle tubes attach to the soft line. Depending on whether you have drum brakes or disc will determine how the axle tube hard lines attach to the brakes.

So you will need this:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2073BRKT/mustang-v8-rear-upper-brake-hose-bracket-86-93?year=1990&gclid=CjwKEAjwvYPKBRCYr5GLgNCJ_jsSJABqwfw7c4ffU6NGO6UxsHnzM3_nhO6YoExLRFyj35fEepCPHBoC5N3w_wcB

And then this:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2282B/86-95-Mustang-88-Rear-End-Center-Upper-Rear-Brake-Hose

So you will need to build or modify the rear brake line from the front of the car to the first item and than build the lines from the second item to the rear brakes.

If you have rear disc then you will need to correct soft lines from the calipers to the hard lines on the axles.

Wow...I've been looking for that part for about two months.  They must have JUST released it.  The only place I could find it was eBay, used for about triple the cost.  I wanted to go that route but like I said I couldn't find a reasonable used or alternative part.    Thanks for the find!  It really made no sense to me how they could sell the hose but not the fitting on the other end.  Just like it doesn't really make sense to me why Ford used a banjo bolt at that location.  Oh well, problem solved!

And I have a TC rear that I had to put the New Edge rotors and calipers on to go 5 lug.  The TC brake hoses on the diff housing work.  So with the Mustang rear hose, I'll just need to whip up 2 short pieces of line to finish off the rear.

I haven't decided how I'm going to run the line to the back of the car just yet.  My SFC took away any easy pathway for any lines/cables to run the length of the car.  The K-member also got rid of the cross over.  So I might run the rear line down the driver side through the drive shaft tunnel.

Look at how the rear and right front brake line is run on an 86-93 Fox Mustangs along the top of the firewall.  I went to a salvage yard and got them back in the day but you can now get them here:

https://sstubes.com/products-ford-cars-replacement-automotive-lines#/specFilters=43!#-!636!-#!25!#-!316

This will be the last update of this thread.  Once I get settled and can work on the car again, if ever, I'll begin a new one.

As of Sunday Oct. 08, '17, the move will become official.  It's been pushed back a bit, for me anyway.  I was supposed to go first, secure a place to live, then my wife would come down shortly after.  My wife, however landed a job immediately and has been living/working since mid-July in South Carolina.  I stayed behind to finish some things.

One of those things was my Cougar.  Not 'finished' but mobile.  I haven't worked on it much since my last update.  Trying to save money and get other loose ends tied up put a stop to most of the progress.  It's finally off the rotisserie and on all four wheels.  Two very major issues became apparent immediately.

First:

 (https://i.imgur.com/wXgKfZFl.jpg)

It sits like a monster truck!  I have Eibach Mustang convertable springs installed.  The front sits higher than with the 2.3T installed.  The rear sits a good 2 maybe 3 inches higher than before, and that's with the MM rear lowers adjusted as low as possible, with a lot of extra weight in the trunk.  The rear will sit higher in street trim.  I'm confused about the rear.  The tires used to tuck a bit with the stock lowers.  The front sits way high as well, but I think that is caused by something else.

I give you the second major issue:

(https://i.imgur.com/x73YVBRl.jpg)

The fenders are just sitting on the car, not bolted, no shims.  Even if there were shims, that intake would still be a good 2 inches too high.  I've looked at a lot of 4v Fox swaps and no other fox car requires a cowl hood to fit this engine.  I don't know if it's because of the solid mounts I bought(which were stupid cheap) or the k-member.  Either way, I have 1/2" spacers under the main k-member mounting pads just to get it to bolt to my car.  I won't feel comfortable with 2 1/2" spacers up front and 2" on the rear pads just to get the hood to fit.  Also the X-pipe points into the ground behind the transmission.  That tells me the engine is super high.  There's no adjustment in the X-pipe either as only 1 side has a ball-socket joint, the other is a  and that removes any adjustment.  Also when I bounce the car, the strutshiznit their upper stops, so another indication something isn't right.

I'm not too worried about it though...as I don't know when I'll be able to get the car down south and start making progress again.  Plus I'm leaning towards a Coyote swap now.  This engine will probably make it into my Lincoln, or another Mark if I find one down south.

Last pic:

(https://i.imgur.com/vc4AWBdl.jpg)

Just threw on the header and TC bumper, mostly to show my dad that the bumper is usable as he keeps insisting that it's junk and I need a new one.


So that's it for this leg of the project.  Thanks to all who helped getting me to this point.  I hope things work out for the best and I can get back to wrenching on this bad boy sooner than later.  When the time comes, a new project thread will be started.

Set a straight edge or pull a string across the bottom of the hood and measure then do the same on the fenders. With the bump up in the center of the hood it might be ok.

Good to see it on its wheels.

Well awesome progress but I agree...it is sitting quite high. And the hood clearance is a tough one...betting that spacing out the K-member would probably do it. Of course there's always a cowl hood but I can understand why you'd want to keep the current hood.

As always, your contributions are appreciated and that's gonna be a bad-ass Cat when it's done. Continued luck with life's journey.

Here is the view across my fenders. Supercharger pulley sticks up and so does the strut tower brace. Have an 87-88 hood on and I have enough clearance to get my fingers between the tightest spots. Using factory ford motor mounts for 2003 mustang and have 5/8” spacer between k member and body. I will not be able to use a hood mat.

You guys did a great job on your projects. I wonder if I can do the same on my car. Maybe I would be needing reliant finishing systems (http://"https://www.reliantfinishingsystems.com/") help.

Id like to find out more about this particular tunnel bracket.

I am adding a "full length" center console to an 87coug & converting to aod floor shift.

I dont have this bracket on my tunnel but there are 4 detents in the tunnel that tell me the jig is there for all cars to "option in"  this item.

Does your full length console have a bracket that attaches to this mounting pad?

my full length console does not,, marked as an "E6" pn.

I am using erics info to cut a hole in the floor and am still going at it kinda slow.

let me know please,,

this pad i point to coupled with the slotted hole atop the tunnel brace certer under the seats allows my center console to "tell" me where it wants to be.
I am skeptical that i really need to cut my hole in the floor that large for an aod shifter,,, the big plus sign tunnel opening  seems to be universal to either working with a aod or std drive.

no i dont have the elevation change pan that is added atop your tunnel, still gotta figure that part out.

im at 304 772 3411 if you have any exact measurements you want to share.
the instructions on coolcats do not specify exactly what precise points were used as reference start points to een begin cutting this hole i need to do.


more than nice work!!!  you might find our simplified subframe connector fab work a tad easier which in or rendidtion likely serves the same pruposes.  We avoided cutting out the floor, though i see you did what the doctor did and it looks really good!

My 86 had that there, and it was a column shift non console car. Same with my 87 bird.

i just found a drawing of it in the body section of the shop manuals.
part a of one question is answered,  the console to tunnel bracket holes are infact "centered" and not favoring forward or Aft directions.
I will have to fabricate this bracket.  its apparently removeable by 4 phiillups screws.