one for the doors and deck and the other just for 2 10 inch pioneer woofers. every time i hook up the bok with my bigger watt amp. (1000w) i get the wine in the speakers. but when it is off nothing. but when i put a surpressor on the big amp it's all good. but takes away from the subs. and the switch on the amp that i have to run the subs on without the surpessor it sounds like the cars s in the speakers box only.
could it be the way i have the power wire run over the coil? or that the remote wire runs to the small amp and back to the big amp? so i ask what is the proper way to hook these two amps up and be happy. also i have the power wires on one side. the rca's on the otherside. and the remote down the middle. do i need to run beter rca'sor insalate my power? any ideas or help.
Erik
power wire to the trunk, into a distrib block, then off to the amps.. either take some sort of 12 volt wire and loop it on each amp, from power in to the REM, or have a toggle switch inside the car. ( wire from power in on amp, to the switch, and one from the switch to the REM) on both amps
youll have to run a 1 or 0 gauge wire to the trunk, where the distribution box is, unless you run a pair of power wires, then you can use whicher gauge wire your amp requires
i was gonna run 4 gauge. but i never had this problem in my cougar. only my mustang. but then again i only ran my big amp in the cougar. thanks for the help. where can i get a distribtion block ?
most amp kits have them.. as extra parts for whatever ... Uh you could buy a nice new amp kit, or go to a local speaker shop and they should have em. Try murrarys auto also if u haver any of them around
i was checking some of them out all they do is split the power right like one 4ga. to two 8 ga. wires. i dont think thats my problem. but i dont know could it be that my cougar had more insilation. and the mustang doesnt which then the power wires could be picking up signals from the wire harness in the car ??? just an idea
I had this same problem and it turned out to be my Head Unit. The most common problem has been the ground however. The ground need to be attached to bare metal. I have a hole drilled in my trunk for mine. Make sure there is no paint where your ground is. The next most popular culprit is the rca wires. If they have been pinched or bent too much, they could "go bad" I would run a new set of rca's inside the car with the motor off to see if that is the problem. If it makes noise with the engine off, it is the deck or the amp having problems. Next run the car with new rac's installed just laying on the seat or outside the car. If you only get noise when the car is running it is probably your ground. both amps should be ground at the same location. and yes you can bump the turn-on from one amp to trhe other. I had three amps, never a problem.
Rockford sells a great dual amp kit with distro block included. cost about 150 but it's goot stuff. BTW you can get that amp kit for half that price on ebay.
I would go with 0 or 1 gauge wire with 1000watt amp. You will get slightly more power out of it even if thats not your problem. I'll bet it is a ground somewhere or pinched rca wires like stated above.
not what i wanted to hear. i have this problem sounds like the amp is picking up the cd player spinning. im going to try shorter Rca's i can stand like 3 feet from the hatch with rca's in my hand and still more upfront. i hear this is bad also creates a magnettic feild or something like that . ands the 1000watt amp isnt a true 1000 it's like 500 true to the speakers
The easiest thing to try, I think would be moving the power wire away from the coil. You are probably hearing a "swishing sound" which can come form the engine ignition system. Try firing up the car and stereo and have someone move the power wire across the coil while it is running. Go back and forth and turn the cable across the long axis of the coil. By doing that you will change the E-M field that the cable is running through. If the static you are getting changes at all, the coil is probably your problem. In general, any wires for your audio system should be as far as possilbe from any turning, oscillating electrical part of the car. Wiper motors, turn signals, etc. should also be avoided.
If you can hear the workings of your cd player through your amp iether the amp gain control is set to high or the deck you have is very noisy. The best way to set you gain on the amp would be to turn up the head unit until it alomost clips the signal. then turn the gain in the amp up until you can hear the sound clip/destort. then your amp gain shouyld be tuned to the head unit output. Most think that the amp gain is a volume when it is really made to adjust the amp input senseitiveity. This would be my first step. you would never believe that amount of noise a unproperly set gain can make. If this fails try moving the rca routing. I hope this helps it has worked for me many times.
i have found out that the amp is starving for power so im going to run a differant bigger power wire. 4 gauge. what size fuse should i run with 4 gauge wire ?
You should try to match the fuse rating of your amp with the fuse inlinr near your battery. Too low and you will snap that fuse; too high, you may let too much current pas through to burn your amp up. In other words check what size fuse the amp has itself and match it.
WTF are you talking about blackcatdaddy? Actually you should use a bigger fuse in the power line than in the amp. There is now way that to much current will pass to the amp and cause it to fry. The amp runns off the power so it sucks the power to it. ALso the reason you should use a bigger fuse than what is in the amp is the ine in the amp is so it won't let anymore than that amount into the amp right at the amp. When you are running long lenghts of cable there is the resistance factor. This means the longer the cable the harder it is to draw the current through it. So if you are sucking up 40amps at the amp you will see more like 60amps at the power source. This is just a for intance. So if you put the same size as in the amp there is a good chance that it will blow the rule of thumb is to increase the fuse size by 20% for the main power wire.
lol ok listen i know what you talking about when you shut your music off there is this stupid whine that is drowned out the louder you turn your music up, i have 3 audiobahn amps in my car n i had rockford amps n 2 diff headunits so far it does it on all of them why exactly i dont know. its not the fuses that get rid of it rewire it as much as you want it wont work. idk if yours is as loud as mine is with your music off but iwth mine at times you can hear the altenator running thats what it is. the faster you go the higher pitched it should get untill you idol. ive talked to guys in stores and they say to buy a radio frequency choke, now exactly what that is and how it works is beyond me cause i dont care enough to do it, it usually comes and goes in my car depending on how often i drive with my system also since i have 3 amps now i can drown it out at 5 volume. the guage of the wire wouldnt have n e thing to do with it that just lets you send more power. you wouldnt want to try n wire all that off a 16g wire. as for whit ipsd said is pretty true because when you suck more juice out of it ull need a bigger amp im draing 1600w which isnt rediculous but i use a 60amp fuse. if you have diodes in your dcar to protect your speakers that could also increase the noise factor for all i know.
The best way to get rid of alternator whine and such is to Isolate the RCA/singal cables from any source of electic current. That is about impossible to do in a car. But the best thing I've ever done is bought some good high quality RCA's I bought the phenoix gold trans balanced ones they are green. Also to check just a single compent you can use a shorting plug on the RCA inputs. this is just a RCA that has the inner and outter wires twissted/solidered together. I've also had better luck running the RCA's down the center of the car and the power wires including the remote turn on wire down the battery side of the car. Then on just about any ford the best spot in the rear for a gound in the seat belt bolt. Also make sure you wire brush/strip the piant and primer off then use good spray paint to cover the whole thing when done. I've also used all of those choke cores and things and they all sucked ass. Also another thing to try is running another set of RCA's with them hooked up to the amp and the head unit with them on and runn the basic routing of the wire using duck tape to hold it inplace on top of the carpet/moldings and such to make sure you aren't getting any unwanted noise. you can also do this with the amp power wires with that shorting RCA plug installed. It isn't fun but it will pay off in a noise free system that is properly tuned. Also make sure you aren't turning you you amp's gain to much as I said before.
ehh idk about running them down the middle wherever u run them your going to pick somthing up, esp if just the wire is exposed you could cover the wire im some of those tubings but idk how much its actually worth it, for me its not cause after 1 volume i cant hear it n e more n e way
If all else fails you ca get a small lenght of slim wire (22ga) attach one side to the chasis of the radio and the other to the outside ring of one of your rca's going into your deck. plug the rca back in and your whine should be gone.
And if you don't believe me about matching the fuses jsut stop by your local bestbuy ,circuit city or any other car audio shop and ask them if it's ok. They will probably tell you that an fuse can take a surge slightly larger than it is rated. I have a rockford fosgate type rf x6 (1100 rms) with a 60 amp fuse (amp has a 75 circuit breaker built in) and I have yet to snap it. If your amp is not near clipping, than it should not even pull the amount of amps that the fuse is rated. I've been installing stereos for years. I'm sure your local shops will back me up.