The motor itself still works, but the nylon bushings are shot. Everyone says the rivets have to be drilled out, but the motor isn't held in place with rivets, (at least it doesn't look like they are) the problem seems to be that the door metal itself is interfering with removing the motors, like I'd have to cut a piece of the door out to get to the motor.
You just have to drill three holes to get at the bolts that hold the motor in place. If I recall there are little indentations where the holes need to be drilled. No rivets need to be removed.
No rivets need to be drilled. They are simply held in place with 3 bolts that attach through the door panel. The bolts are brass colored.
When I did mine a ways back, I vaguely remember having to grind off those 3 rivets (mine is an 84) to get the assembly loose and then use bolts to re-install it. There should be lots of room to get the motor out but remember to keep the window propped up so as not to fall when the drive is removed.
My '88 had accessible bolts through the door panel.
I learned the trick with the 1/4" nuts from an old ford mechanics.
No sense in replacing the dumb bushings with more dumb bushings...
Yeah, I've heard about the trick with the nuts, lol. On one hand I want a functioning window, on the other, I like that I don't have to worry about locking my keys in the car, lol.
10mm gold chromate grade 8 bolt hardware in there,,
remove door panel, locate dimples then drill with a bit big enough to get your 1/4'' drive 10mm socket & 1/4'' drive extention in there
remove motor through speaker hole or where ever you find is best.
Using a stepper bit is better and if you dont have one, its a nice shop tool to have,, they are cone shaped drill bits with step increments.
spend well on Greenlee or harbor frieght cheapy ones.
if the motor still runs but the gear does not rotate, the "so called" child safety feature is stripped out..............
remove cover from the gear box end.
observe how it works
clear all grease out
epoxy the center thing that spins to the outter ring drive hear.
~~basiclly there is a sorta triangle shape drive part that frictions against the outter window regulator drive gear.
let it dry and then re-install.
if no motor movement,,,
gator clip the motor direct to your battey and momentarily tap power to the motor.... if it spins you have a power delivery problem.... click below for EVTM diagrams in my signature.
I didn't have a big enough drill bit at the time so I just cut three small access holes with a dremmell cut off tool. Not as nice looking but it got the job done.
Yep, I'm 99% sure this is the problem.
Should be able to find a rebuild kit for it here.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1985-Ford-Thunderbird/Window-Lift-Motor-Gear-Kit/_/N-ijp1fZ8iihk?filterByKeyWord=window+motor&fromString=search