a couple of years ago I had a problem with my headlights, where apparently the "circuit breaker" was malfunctioning. That was at least, the best I could determine. I had power to the switch, no crossed, disconnected, or shorted wiring that I could find. The lights would just come on and go off, whenever the hell THEY felt like it was a good idea. This resulted in a $160 ticket and a ridiculous insurance hike.
So, in an effort to resolve this problem, I hardwired my lights up to rocker switches on my switch panel. Park lights on the regular switch, cause they never had a problem, Low beams on one rocker, and high beams on another. Flash to pass/bright switch completely bypassed. Eventually as I got around to trying to actually solve/eliminate the real problem, I replaced my headlight switch, where the manual says the supposed circuit breaker is located, with a brand new one. Problem solved right?. Except not.... at all. So I replaced my blinker/high beam switch with a known good one. Problem solved again right? No. not, at all, again.
Then one day, the problem just -went away-. For no reason at all. Like a magical gremlin in my electrical system just decided to go bother my neighbors car instead now or something. And so, for the last 2 years, I have had no problems with them at all. Now, yesterday, they hesitated before coming on. For about 2-3 seconds, then had no problem. Could flip them on/off as I wanted, and they stayed on all night. However, just about an hour ago, as I was getting ready to come home, they once again decided that they didn't want me to get home without getting chased by the cops. Luckily I was only about 3 minutes from home, so crisis averted. However, after I got home, I tried and tried to get them to come on, and absolutely cannot get them to function. If I pull the flash-to-pass switch, I get high beams while I hold it, but nothing else at all. Normally I'm pretty good with electrical problems but this one has me just about wanting to s my car. I'm pretty freaking pissed off. Does anyone else have a clue what I am talking about, and/or how the hell to fix it? I would greatly appreciate it so I can drive to work in the morning without having to worry about getting pulled over......
I posted several articles and slave relay modifications for this issue . Some like it some did not. Tried and true modification with 2 BOSCH relays and your troubles are over. The headlight switch is obsolete (TC) and in situations like that i wire the headlights for daylight running. If you can do some modifications and follow a print i will post the FIX AGAIN. But if you do not slave out the signal switch and also the headlight switch along with the ignition switch. Your car may turn in to a fire ball. GOD FORBID. Some posters do it differently and design a circuit that NASA engineers cant follow but mine is simple direct and easy to follow. Thanks.
How did the connectors look at the dimmer/signal switch and the headlight switch. Back in the day I had a similar issue with my 85 and the wires were burnt and the connectors were deformed. The lights would go out, I would pull over shut off the lights, wait 30 minutes or so, and they would come back on. Sometimes they would stay on all night, the next time I couldn't go 30 miles. This is why the headlamp relay mod is a good idea. Not sure if this is your problem, but maybe a place to start. Good luck.
Well I appreciate it Tom but relaying the headlights is something I already know how to do and have planned on for quite some time, just haven't gotten around to it ever. even so though, I would still like for my headlight switch to trigger the relays and seeing how I can't get it to do a dam thing that still won't help me lol
yeah, last time that was a problem. the harness atbthe dimmer switch was a little well done if you know what I mean, which is why I figured swapping the switch would solve the problem, thinking I must have had a faulty dimmer switch, not the obvious bulbs are frying your wiring problem.... s ared to open it up and look now....
currently in the process of checking for current at the main switch harness
main switch checks out, headed to dimmer switch now....
Well, after taking the column apart and checking the dimmer switch, I've got no signs of burning/melting. I did find the problem though... Turns out, when I plugged the harness back in, the lights came on. After a little trial and error, seems to be a connection problem. Course, now I feel like a dumbass but the fact that the lights seemed to come on based on a period of time was just a strange side effect that was throwing me off of the real problem. After putting the column back together, they were off again, but a nice jolt to the column with a fist got them back on again. I never thought that a harness that sits that ed tight into its socket could possibly have a connection problem but that does indeed seem to be the case. I'll definitely get around to relaying them soon though, just to be safe.....
You may want to use a thin file and clean up the connectors on both sides, and maybe use a pick to close up the gap so there is better contact. Just because the plastic connector is fitting tight does not mean the wiring contacts are making a good connection. Hitting the column may get old, lol.
I had the same problem in my 83. I replaced the headlight switch and it stayed working for a few days, then blinking again. I just ended up using a lead from the parking lights to trigger a relay for the headlights. It was just my beater car, so I wanted function over beauty. When you pulled the lever the first click lit the parking lights and the headlights, same with the second click. The brights only worked while you hold the lever.
So the short answer is yes, I've had that problem, and I rigged my way around it instead of fixing it the right way.
The general consensus is that as our cars get older the resistance of our corroding connections raises the total current draw, overheats the circuit breaker and it trips. Then cools, resets, trips again, etc.
Yeah I'll probably get in there eventually and dig around in it. I just wanted to get the thing working again tonight though lol
Yeah kinda like what I did when I hardwired them to autozone shelf rocker switches lol.
I Just took it a step further, and had seperate rockers for the low/highs lol
If you've got autolamps, we worked out a nice mod to slave the headlamps to the autolamp relays with just 2 jumper wires with diodes in them. This way, you're only making a minor mod that causes the headlamp switch to operate the autolamp relays instead of powering the lights directly. Search the forum for Foe'smod (http://"http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/search.php?searchid=64521"). She got off to a rocky start, be we ironed it out.
Also, check all the grounds involved with the headlights.
No it's cool I've got a base model.
Reading this makes me think why would someone not fix a headlight issue. Anyone that knows these cars knows that the switches are over loaded including the ignition switch. 20 minutes with a couple of relays and some solder and it is a dun deal. WELL I TRIED .
NOTE a lot of those contacts over heat and separate. Then when they cool down they work. Ford has had this issue for years including the MUSTANG. This includes the multi function as well as the headlight switch and ignition switch!! THANK YOU
hey steve,
tom said something that you need to look at when you get a chance.
he said they heat up and cool down and the contact is compromised.
what i want to add is this,
you really need to extract any given conductor on the back of the MLS or the MFS and look at it ***really close***.
there are several angles of one piece of metal bent around like a "spring loaded box" which is the female wire connector.
Where all this metal wraps around , the place where they meet up has an iddy biddy barely visible to your eye cad weld to keep it from poping open or tweeking.
"I" noticed that in my ignition switch for instance that a couple of these connectors were mis-shaped.
What i mean is if you use a magnefying glass you can see where the metal weld holding this wire end to its shape has failed.
When this cad weld breakes, the little springy arched metal parts that "trap" the male blade are not set corretly anymore.
simply put,, take a closer look at the female wire ends,, and i mean very close.
I fixed the ones that were defective in my 20th, i found 9 that the cad weld was broken.
im a little late to the party but like always, you usually end of figuring things out and im glad you got it solved.
at least now you know what your options are and where the issue is,, just a warning that you may have physical connectors failing also.
BTW, these connectors can have thier cad welds broken by simply being too rough on grooming in wires and exceeding the bend radius ect.. bending the wires too hard at a 90deg as the conductor exits the back of the plug itself will cause the wire ends cad welds to break.
ill bet you a beer you'll find out im right on this one.