Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

I have an option of using a 351w, I would like to keep my stock hood, I have factory K-member.  I want to run headers, I have read about using a 351w swap header, I already have the double hump oil pan for the 351w.  I will use carburator most likely on this one.  Any other suggestion or tips?

I have a couple of bell housings.

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use your existing 302 accessories and belt. belt might be a hair short. rest should basically bolt in with a carb. same motor mounts and exhaust bolt pattern. may have to tweak exhaust, but it should work fine. only the balance is really different.

Your manifold choice will determine if the hood closes or not.

The 83-85 tbird k member is the most similar to the fox mustang.
You should be able to use convert motormounts.  Which lowers the engine 3/4".

If you are going with a carb setup you shouldn't have clearance issues.

Now if u want EFI....that will require careful measurement.

Travis

I have read up on some stuff, I guess a different harmonic balancer if I want to run the 5.0 front accessory setup with a different power steering bracket?  Is it possible to run standard headers and h-pipe from 302 ho motor?

i used the same pulleys of my 5.0 when i did the prolem i had was hood clearence.

I am pretty sure you do not need to change the harmonic balancer, just the pully but the power steering bracket is needed. I found the 1991/93 MN-12 5.0 Birds and Cougars have very nice engine brackets and are designed to tuck into a lower profile hood. It is pretty much the same as the 94/95 5.0 Mustang. I would look for the swap parts/ engine dress for one of those cars and use it in your bird. Here is a pic of the 5.0 I installed into a 1994 T-Bird SC a few years ago.

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....no......and No......

With regards to the harmonic balancer the 302 HO is a 50 oz imbalance motor where the 351W is a 28 oz imbalance motor.  If you are having the motor built with a neutral imbalance which most stroker kits are then it will definitely require an aftermarket balancer.  So unless you currently have a Motorsport or similar balancer that allows a person to swap the weights a new balancer will be needed.

The serpentine brackets from a Fox 5.0 car will work on a 351W motor with the only change being the AC / Power Steering bracket which you can get here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-8511-b351/overview/

Shorty 302W headers will work on a 351W however long tube headers meant for a 302W will most likely not work due to the additional width and deck height of the 351W block.  With that being said a stock style H or X pipe for a 302W will most likely not bolt up either but can probably be modified by a good exhaust shop to fit but I'm not 100% on that one.  The biggest issue you have is the stock K-Member with long tubes is typically a huge pain in the ass clearance wise as well as getting the tubes around the steering.  If you are dead set on LT's then get a nice steering shaft and not the Flaming River one as the set screws and jam nuts still get in the way.  I would just go with a good set of 1-3/4" shorties and call it a day but that is me.

As for the Fox Mustang motor mounts, they only make one style of motor mounts anymore and the dealers no longer carry the part so that means parts stores.  The mounts they carry are the convertible style so it is the only choice most of us have locally.  For my car I had to use the Energy Suspension mounts (based on the non-convertible design) to get the Canton road race pan to clear the steering rack.  I have a Griggs K-member and it lowers the motor a bit which combined with the convertible style mounts was no bueno.

Transmission wise if you decide to go the Tremec TKO 500 or 600 route do not get a Lakewood bell housing.  They are too bulky and cause nightmares with long tubes let alone everything else in close proximity.  I used an S-Rod transmission bell housing but if you want an explosion proof housing then get a McLeod as they are a much better design in the fact they are more compact and much more friendly to long tubes.

Darren

I was looking at the motor today and notice it has a 3-bolt crank pully on it, do they make a 3-bolt pulley for the serpertine setup i want to use?  I am going to mount the 94 T-5 back up to it, since that what was on it when I pulled it from the ranger, it has a double sump pan on it, I guess the rangers had to have a double sump to fit in them.  I am going to double check the flywheel and make sure it is a 28oz, i would think if he was using a 50oz, something would have happen to the motor by now, from vibration.  I will post some pics of the motor tomorrow.

Or I can buy a new balancer 28oz that will take either 4-bolt or 3-bolt?

can I run the 302 water pump, i have a new one.  I was going to put the 302 timing cover on from the mustang?

The water pump and timing chain cover will bolt right up.  Typically the Mustangs have four bolt crank pulley's and some aftermarket harmonic balancers have dual bolt patterns.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6316-c351/overview/make/ford

Darren

Looks like the right oil pan, look at the old water pump backing plate compared to the new one, looks like the old one would flow better as it looks like it fits the shape of the pump better, any thoughts?

I found that the timing chain cover on the 5.0 Mustangs is meant for a standard rotation water pump.  I ran across a thread on the Corral showing what one guy did to increase the circulation rate of coolant in the engine block.  One of the things you can do is to purchase a new timing chain cover from Autozone or O'Reillys that is a for an F-150 pickup.  It will be a Pioneer brand (they make them for Ford) and it will be for a reverse rotation water pump.  All I had to do was clean a little flashing out of the new timing chain cove and installed it.

If you take the timing chain cove you have now and hold the water pump in front of it like you were going to install it you will see that the ports on the pump and cover do not line up when they use a standard rotation water pump timing chain cove with a reverse rotation water pump.

Darren

Yea I was going to use the timing chain cover from the 91 302, with new water pump.  The motor had a standard rotation water pump on it.  V-belt pully.

I pulled cover off tonight to inspect chain, since I am running a electric fuel pump, do I have to reinstall the fuel pump centric thing back in front of cam???

If you are going to use the 91 timing chain cover I believe you have to remove it or it will rub on the cover.  They are either a two piece (tab that requires a short cam dowel pin) or one piece (requires a lone cam dowel pin) and it depends on the face of the cam gear as to which one you use but in your case since you are removing it it makes no difference.  Just pull it off and reinstall the cam bolt to the recommended torque.

Darren

And as far as the 5.8 with a stock hood goes....

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?36003-86-T-bird-drag-car&p=417384#post417384

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-351W-1986-1997-Powerbond-PB1214N-Harmonic-balancer-damper-/380617646863

You think this will work has far as the right depth so the pulley will line up ok, using the 4 bolt pulley from mustang.

Or should i go with this one for 69.99 second from the left
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Mustang-Harmonic-Balancers

Go with the second one as the crank pulley will just bolt to it and the belt alignment should be on the money.  Call them first and let them know which serpentine belt setup you are using and just tell them you are putting the 351W into a Fox Mustang as it will uncomplicated things on their end.  You tell them T-Bird and they ask to many questions that make no difference.  If it was a part related to suspension then I can see their concern but other than that they are Mustang guys through and through.

Darren