Stupid questions...
I've never done any suspension work outside of pulling off tie rods. After driving 2000miles in the last week, I've come to the conclusion the stock 190+k mile suspension is a bit worn out.
Replacement shocks/struts from the parts store? Stock springs? What's the best way to go? Thinking new strut mounts and ball joints while I'm at it. I also have some sn-95 springs, but think they might get the rear end too low for my driving style.
I am also curious about air rear shocks and if there avaliable. I like to be over prepared when I travel, and after getting pulled over twice and searched for drugs at the idaho border, I'm thinking I may need to find an alternative to lugging 600 lbs worth of tools in the trunk, or stopping the bumper from dragging. I have a tiny 1 1/4 receiver hitch, and would like to eventually get a small 500lb rated trailer to tow, so air shocks seem very tempting.
Monroe has air shocks for the bird and cougars, they're a tid bit pricey, also gabrial has them too. I had a set on my lx before I tore it down they're pretty decent, I didn't notice an astounding difference
I went with the monroe sensatrac and couldn't be happier.
I've got Sensatracs all around and I like them. A bit firmer than stock ride but nice and smooth.
Mine was doing boat on the ocean impersonation prior to the shock upgrade so anything was better :D.
As far as the strut mounts go, you're not going to find a replacement for the stockers, and they're different from the Mustang ones. You can, however, get some aftermarket ones from Moog or TRW, that match the cup style of those used in the Mustangs from '83 on. They have a replaceable upper bushing (stock TBird ones are not serviceable), and you can use an inexpensive poly replacement should you like.
Good to know chuck. Might need to just go with caster camber plates. Not really planning on lowering the car or anything though, so might kinda be a waste.
Monroe also makes replacement strut mounts, well at least they did five years ago. I've got a set on my Thunderbird.
Haystack,
I just put poly bushings on my suspension except for the two center ones on my rear axle. I also put two new anti-sway bars, KYB shocks and struts, and new Moog springs. The springs I put on my car are a cargo springs (stiffer than stock). I figure if they are too stiff, I can always cut a coil off which will lower my car a little (my car sits high). I went to the Monroe sight and basically just looked up the springs I was looking for and ordered them from Summit Racing.
IMO CC plates on our cars are not a waste no matter what the suspension height is. You have to look at it this way, these cars are at a minimum of 25 years old and are unibody. If you did not weld in some stiffeners they have sagged, moved, shifted, etc. I put my 83 on a frame machine and pulled it back straight, welded in upper and lower subframes, and then installed the Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. The tech that aligned the car gave me a little static about aligning it to Maximum's recommended specs but after he drove the car he said it was on the money.
I would also suggest that you rebuild the lower control arms with new bushings and ball joints. You can get a set of SN95 control arms off a Mustang and go that route so the car is not down any longer than needs be or you can rebuild yours. Moog makes a nice bushing kit for them and you can borrow the removal/installation tool from the parts store and it will also do the ball joints. If you are still running the Fox brakes up front get the T-Bird specific ball joints but if you are running the SN95 spindles get the SN95 ball joints so you can ditch the washers if you are still running the Fox ball joints. Be sure to get a new sway bar end link kit as well.
Darren
I am with DARREN 100% on his post. The strut plates rot out from the inside and if not addressed will eventually crack the unibody. I use MAM MOTOR plates and they are absolutely necessary for a correct alignment. Just me !!!
(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/family167.jpg)
Notice how the upper pocket cracked. This is because the stock bushings FAILED. This is relatively common in states that have bad winters. Just saying!!
(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/family169.jpg)
What type of bushings are recommended for replacing front control arm bushings? I have a combination going of poly and rubber in the frontend bushings and mounts.
1. Moog rubber rack bushings
2. Solid rubber(not hydraulic) motor mounts
3. Monroe strut mount kits with rubber isolators
4. poly sway bar bushings
5. poly endlink bushings
6. poly transmission mount
This is all in an 88 XR-7 with a 5.0HO/AOD and newly upgrading to 11" front brakes.
btw, found a good writeup on late model mustang suspension
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm
Overall you have good materials in the bushings. I would run Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates and their rack bushings but that's me.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=514_2_77&products_id=258
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=514_3_86&products_id=466
Darren