Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

Lets all put eyes on this and approve before calling it good for the board.
Purpose:
Redirect the wattage/heat displacement tyically experienced by the headlamp switch & heat sync.
Reduces heat on the headlamp switch connector.
Increases life span of OEM switch and reduces chance of electrical problems as a result of excessive heat effects experienced by the OEM design.

Source drawings are from the 1987 EVTM
If the pins/wire colors are consistent for 1988EVTM and the 86 and earlier years, then the "generic" intent stands well.

Headlamp mod ~ intercept the wiring as shown, apply power and ground.

Exterior lamp mod ~ decided to stay with same concept so intercept wiring as shown, intercept existing over current protection , apply a ground as shown.

Looks like it would work fine to me.  I wonder what the current draw through the head lamp switch would be after the modification?

all other devices such as cluster lighting, ,,,could be as low as 5A at the very very most.

Looks good to me. Also has the advantage of not overloading the headlight switch if you have factory fog lights.

I did mine differently, having access to a cop car fuse/relay box. I had six relays: one for high beam, one for low beam, one for each fog light, and two extras that I was going to use to integrate daytime running lamps into the system (Nova Scotia law requires them but I never got around to adding that functionality, instead using the fog lights, which were wired to come on with the ignition as a stop-gap measure to meet the law). Here's how I had that wired (the "To Battery" wires are wired into the integrated fuse panel, shown in the photo). The headlight switch still carried park light current, but it was my plan to replace all running lights with LED's...

The white relays in the photo below were going to be the DRL relays:

And the fuse box covered up, for a nice factory look (this fuse/relay box was a Ford part):

i feel a sticky coming on,,,, good info Thunderchicken, glad you took a peek.
I also contemplated individual relays breaking out individual circuits.  Mason may want this in his bird so he'll be buying a fuse block on digikey.

Low and High headlights I can understand, but what is the intended benefit of having left and right fog lights on distinct circuits? Also mentioned was the fact that this fuse block is a Ford part, but would it be possible for Thunder Chicken to tell us the part number or the source of this particular item?

88 as i always say people over design circuits. TC has a nice setup their but totally over built. The fog lights do not draw excessive current that need 2 separate relays. And the HI LOW relay can be accomplished with one relay instead of 2. Once again an over designed circuit and way to much confusing wiring. Just me i make it simple!! The fog lights can be paired to one relay. And another relay for HI LOW and another to slave the headlight switch is all that is needed. And it all can be dun right at the switch and not under the hood. As the wiring is adequate as built.

(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/002-27.jpg)

Tom,
Can you comment on the slave relay applications and tell us if you see a problem with either layout.

I prefer two relay layout for headlamps too. Why? Because you can use existing head lamp wires to trigger those two relays (one for low beams and one for high beams). Power for them can be connected directly to the battery (and fuse) to prevent voltage drop on the cables and switches. In fact you can use one relay version, but I don't see any bigger difference, because you must have another relay somewhere to power up the headlamps. Why? Because standard relays aren't three state (off/lo/hi), they are just two state (Lo/Hi). If you delete the relay for powering this switch relay, you lose the advice of small voltage drop. I measured it couple weeks ago and it did over 2 Volts difference on a car WITHOUT systems sentry!

One relay for both fog lamps is OK.

Trinom
Are you saying the relay should be downstream of the multi-function "hand lever" switch?
If so, i agree and its my belief now that the Hi-Lo relay fittment needs to be exactly there.

Rev1 13aug2012 below.
Pls review and approve prior to making it a tool for the board.
I placed the dual headlamp Hi/Lo beam relays downstream of the multi-function switch thus removing all heat possibilities from these switches.

This was the best i could do to keep the drawing neat and in tact with the existing overlay.

any thoughts?

I'm not definitely sure what exactly you are asking about, so I made a quick drawing. It's quite simplified, because flash to pass relay isn't important and number of bulbs isn't important either.

(http://obrazky.trinom.org/obrazky/xml2_P8130003.jpg)
Circuit on the left shows the original circuit - no relays, just switches.
The circuit in the middle called "switch saver" shows one alternative - switches are just for trigering the relays, so the current flowing through the switch contacts is much lower, than in the original circuit. This version needs one relay for each switch. This design doesn't care so much about voltage drop on those long wires.
And finally the circuit on the right shows the most ideal modification and probably also the easiest one. It uses existing wires, which were originaly connected directly to the light bulbs. Instead of this, they are now connected to the relay coils and trigger the relays. Good place for the relays is next to the starter relay. The relay feeds come directly from the battery  which is very close to the headlamps (through the fuses for each relay, or one for both). This means, that the voltage drop on the wires from battery is much smaller, than in the original circuit. The result is in much brighter headlamps and also lower switch temperatures, which means longer life span.

PS: This is reaction on your previous post, not the last one. Unfortunately the internet connection fell down before I hit the submit button yesterday night.

That's exactly, what I call version two. The best place for those two relays is next to the starter switch. It's a quite dry and safe place, very close to the battery.

Only problem is, that it's not compatible with systems sentry's low beam out warning.

Ok has anyone actually tested the voltage drop in the headlights with the stock wiring??? I have and it nothing to worry about. And does everyone realize the draw down is only 6A low and 7 A high per lamp . Not exactly a candidate for a dedicated battery feed condition. I would suggest testing voltage drop before designing circuits that are over the top and messy as well. I slave the switch contacts which is needed because the switch is the issue and the week link in the system not the wiring. And it does not interfere with FTP. It has it's own relay .  if connected properly.  Its neat clean and simple. Basically we are talking about a device that draws small amounts of current in comparison to other devices. Dont over-design circuits. It complicates it and it adds way to much wiring and is not necessary. Just My $.02

Note you might want to reconsider the relay locations under the hoods. Here is why!!!

(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/001-102.jpg)

I used this information I was directed to when I had my 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

I used crownvic.net a great panther forum.

There was a considerable difference in the brightness of the headlights after the upgrade!!

Well, this looks like relay soaked in ocean water. I saw this just once, on the old car sitting on the water reservoir beach for many years (not in the water, just next to), so I'm not worry about this problem on most cars, if you put the relays on some good place.

And the answer to your previous question - Yes, I've measured the voltage drop on the car I modified for my good friend. He has '69 Caddy Eldorado and the volage drop on that car was over 2 volts when the lights were powered just by the battery. All connectors were clean, just for sure.
The difference in brightness after this mod is huge.

my 2c on voltage drop as well.

"when" the atlernator fails and it will", the voltage goes down and therefore the current goes up.
in short order those reliable wires become very questionable at 10 or 8 vdc.

under normal cirumstances i would agree the wire is good enough.
duirng cranking of the engine with auto lamps on,, and the car seems to be cranking sluggish or hard to start, those wires are suffering from irratic voltage drop during that event as well.  there are several events the could exceed the limitations of the wire but yes under normal operation and working conditions, the wire should be ok.

i do like reducing the power feed to the lights by 50% thier actual distance now though, its like a 12' run from the lights to the switch.  3 to 6 feet sounds tempting.

All approve of the two drawings ?

I noticed a temperature increase at the headlamp switch when I moved up to a higher wattage bulb in my Coupe.  I installed two relays, one for low and one for high beam using the low and high beam outputs from the multifunction switch to trigger the relays.  The temperature at the head light switch is still noticeably less and the light output increased.  I think it is a great modification for higher output bulbs.  I did this on my Bird as well when I converted it over to the H4 bulbs as the older style head light switches are notorious for over heating with the higher amperage loads from the newer light bulbs.

So I guess what I am overly tiredly babbling about is that I think this is a great sticky it!

Darren

darren
You did what i drew up in the second layout but can you explain if you have auto lamps or not?

You know if the headlight switch is getting hotter with bulbs that draw more current???? Then the weak link as i point out many times before is the switch. So keep over designing circuits if you feel you must. And i find it hard to believe a voltage drop oe 2 Volts. Because i have only shown app .3 Voltage drop with a relay that slaves the switch. Be it as it may i will bail out of this discussion and hope to god i never have to shoot a trouble in one of these modified setups. Basically you guys are over thinking this and designing circuits that are way to complicated and not worth bothering with. That relay came out of a car at the show and was no where near the OCEAN. He had a headlight relay kit he bought and the under hood relays were corroded. Best place for the relays are in the cab or trunk. But i have a question??? If you use battery voltage from the cars battery to the relay to prevent voltage drop!!! Then what do you do if you have a trunk mount battery???  I find it very difficult to believe a 2 volt drop with the headlight switch fed with a number 12 Gauge multi strand wire. That wire can handle over 30AMPS + and a pair of headlights draws 12A. Very confusing to me. Thanks!!

 I installed two relays, one for low and one for high

WHY??? YOU ONLY NEED ONE RELAY FOR HIGH LOW!!! The 5 pr0ng relay has two positions!!!

Headlight Circuit- 14 GAUGE    

Headlight Switch To Fuse Block- 12 GAUGE

Certainly your not pointing at me over complicating anything because if you are,,, you have your work cut out for you : )

I cant see anywhere that I over complicated any part of the structure, infact i show the very drawing you suggested ,, then went further to offer optional dual relays down stream of the M/F switch so the heat load on both the main and M/F switch is greatly relieved.

what is the issue you have with who's layout and why,, thats called progress which helps us all do a better / cleaner job.  thats all that matters at the end of the day.

maybe your just in one of those moods or something, either way i take no offence, i just need to know how your comments above are substatiated when the OP shows exactly what your endorsing.

No auto lamps, my car is the old style pull  on the headlight switch.  The stock head lights on my '83 were fairly low wattage, 50W for high beam and 35W for low beam.  The H4 bulbs I put in the new headlamp fixtures are 100/90 Hi/Lo.  So some simple math and the load on high beam with the old style lights was 190 Watts total.  The load with the new H4's is 400 Watts total.  Hell even on low beam the old lights were 70 Watts total and the new H4's are 180 Watts total.

Watts / Volts = Amps

Old Head Lights:
190/12 = 15.8A (Battery Voltage) or 190/14.4 = 13.2A (with the engine running and alternator charging)

New Head Lights:
400/12 = 33.3A (Battery Voltage) or 400/14.4 = 27.8A (with the engine running and alternator charging)

For me the stock wiring was marginal at best with the stock loads and with the added power of the newer lights I thought relays were a prudent move.

Darren

WOW this is what i mean!!!!

A 60-watt halogen bulb draws 5 amps of power @12 volts. Times 2 equals 10 amps of load. Most high beam lamps are 60 - 65 WATTS

Watts = VOLTAGE X CURRENT

So a pair of headlights running at app 14 VOLTS draws app 14 AMPS on high beams.

A pair of 100WATT lamps at 14 VOLTS would draw 16 AMPS  NOT 33.5 amps?????????


14 VOLTS X 8 AMPS = 102 WATTS X2 lamps = 16 AMPS of load.

With 4 headlights it would be 32 AMPS. So one 40 AMP relay would suffice!!!

Tom,

With my '83 all four of the headlights come on for high beam which I believe was standard on the four eyed cars.

Darren

and since most of this wire is in bundles and inside a corelon flex tube, 
and since most none of this wire has any rating for insulation or temp,

we have to assume "in raceway or wire way" and at 60degC.

that being said, you should also factor in low voltage conditions of approx 10v if you wish,, then you would conclude to the amperage and size the wire to that ampacity along with the fuse.

then  yes as i have agreed to also, the wire seems a tad marginal... under normal conditions, i still would not engineer most of these circuits like this.

these are just my thoughts, thats all.

since you have the pull switch, im sure you would not have headlamps if your MF switch failed.
tom makes a good point of catching the high beams at the main light switch with a slave relay.

maybe this is a fail safe solution for people without auto lamps...
slave the high beam like he said downstream of the main light switch
slave the lows downstream of the MF switch

again, the second relay would be opitonal in some peoples opinion.

tom
you made a statement,
are  you saying to use one slave relay (designed with one contact set NO and one contact set NC) downstream of the main light switch...
wire low beams off the NC contacts
wire the high beams off the NO contacts

when high beam is selected, the relay is energized and the hi beam contacts are picked to power Hi beam?
this specifically is what i wanted to talk to you about.
i thought when hi was chosen by the user,, low beams stayed on but the additional HI beam element also got power...
how can what i described above work if both elements are needing energized to achieve HI beam?

Ok first off older cars have 4 HIGH BEAMS. That is a given. But low beams are 2. With that going to a 100W lamp you have to times it by 4 as noted by aerocoupe. So with 4 high beams you need a heavier relay and or 2 if you want to split the system?? Either way the system as stock wiring was never designed for doubling the current. But normally the switch is wired with a number 12 wire. That can easily handle the load of 4 X 100 LAMPS ON HIGH BEAM. And yes NC and No is how the 5 pr0ng works. So with normally closed contacts as low and NO contacts as high only one relay is required. Hope i explained it OK. With a 4 eyes and 100W lamps you would benefit with 2 relays and split left and right. BUT 100 Watt lamps are illegal any way so with that we use Ballasts and HID which draws much less and gives more light. WOW what a discussion!!!!

I get it now,,

i guess i dont know how the bulbs work,,lol

tell me if i am wrong here..
low is selected and then when Hi is selected, low beams stay on but the second element is illuminated.
from what you are saying i am wrong.

what you are saying is Low is selected and then....
when high is selected,, lows are off and HI is on only?????????????

what say you >?

Yep you are wrong.

Yes this how they work. Only one bulb element is on at a time.

well,, learned me something new...
i had it wrong for along time.  If i had known that, i naturally would have wire both low/hi to the single relay like****someone**(tom) ** was sayin,, : )
makes perfect sense now to use one relay...lol  and pick it right after the main headlamp switch

I swear all this time i thought a second element was energized to cause a HI beam appearance having both elements burning at once, the schematic is obvious,, just never noticed this before,,

Correct the 5 pr0ng relay is a double throw unit and can be used for HI LO. I have wired headlights to operate with both filaments on when shifting to HI. I did that on my chevy step side. Those headlights are the pits (extremely dim because of the factory design) So i burn both filaments at once on high.

Note you can actually wire the headlights with a relay to accomplish DAYLIGHT RUNNING MODE. Simple to do and this is something i have dun for customers. Just something different. That can be wired with a defeat mode controlled by the headlight switch. Just another thing to think about!!

What Tom is describing would be the way to go with composite (87-88) headlamps.  He's not wrong, he's just leaving out one step.  With your 4eye setup, you'll want to keep the high and low on together, so what you do is this:  with the relay high amp B+ Lets say [COLOR="red"]Red[/COLOR], along side the NC (low beam) output, we'll say [COLOR="yellow"]Yellow[/COLOR], strip about 1/2 inch off both side by side, then using a single wire strand, wrap around the exposed wire for both [COLOR="red"]R[/COLOR] and [COLOR="yellow"]Y[/COLOR] (joining the feed to the low out, bypassing the relay for lows), solder, reinsulate, done.  This way, your lows and Highs are on together, but your lows are on alone.  If you're trying to slave out the whole system, you'll need a 4 pin relay as the main on/off relay in addition to your 5 pin hi/low relay. This is how I modded the Hi/lo relay in my 88 with autolamps so that my projector retrofit would keep the bulb lit when I switched over and dropped the shutter down to get Hi beams.  I tried explaining this to TBirdX3 during his first BiXenon projector retro, so that he wouldn't have to use the relay harness that came with his kit.

tom,
as far as this discussion is concerned, are you indicating to burn both elements at once during HIbeam?  That way i understand your point of view.

Tom
pls try to see if you can complete this drawing,,
I am slightly stumped with how your switching the two different loads on one relay.
I assumed you are wiring directly to the wiring going out to the Low and HI as you described so that is what i show.
I show sow the common relay contact as vacant
I show the fuse not connected yet either.....

pls comment and if you can complete the drawing.

If not then it appears my first and second headlamp Hi/Lo layouts are ok , hope you can look at this.

You mind if I take a whack at that?
The hi/lo relay is at lo in the normally closed, de-energized position. when power is sent by either the headlamp switch or an on/off relay, the Lo come on. when switched to Hi, the Hi/Lo relay energizes and diverts to Hi. If you want Lo to stay on with Hi, you add a simple splice between Hi/Low supply and Lo output.

Observe:

This one keeps current down in the mfs only, and has only one relay.

wont work dude,,, power disipation is still across the main light switch, we need to bypass the main light switch,, good work though.

The first one I posted with 2 relays only pulls coil side current through the headlight switch. 60mA, tops. If you want to pull less than that through it, well, tell me what you figure out.  Maybe since I posted twice, you only noticed the second one.

no sir,,
now that i have a moment...

the first post uses two relays.,, no real issues that i can see with it although it is a nice tricky way of going about it.
The second does not achieve the goal to remove heat from the headlamp switch.

For this most recent discussion and as tom pointed out,,,,
We must do this Hi/Lo control with one relay based on my begining layout.  Thats the thing tom needs to chime in on.
If he can show us, then it is like **you said** the best way.

I just need help on this one relay with Hi on one contact and Low on the other.

I did a dual relay already
I also have a single relay layout on page 1 you can scope out as well.
In respect to maximum heat removeal, i did a dual relay option which takes away heat from both the Main Light Switch and the Multifunction switch.

My objective here is to learn what tom is trying to say.

sorry, again, the goal is as broken out per Tom using only one relay

-Power the low on one set
-power the High on the other set
-bypass all high current around the main headlamp switch.
*it would be nice if the solution also bypasses high current around the multi-function switch like my dual relay does but isnt really requried at this time.

again, if it can be done then i just need help.

However, I know exactly how to do it but you have to ommit a few conductors from any future use on your vehicle.,,that part was not discussed yet so lets wait till tom can chime in.

If you like , you and i can work off line together on options.. pm coming

ok, spoke to tom today and a "single relay" to do the whole job is not what he meant.

A dual relay setup that integrates both an ign sw relay coupled with another relay in effect using a wire from the output of the M/F switch mixed in is what he meant.

So there really are no issues to this point with the following posts for future eyes if one decides to do this mod.......
**those with AUTO LAMPS need to be clear and understand that there is an additional benefit for you.
If you remove or lose power to any given relay in these mods or you simply remove the M/F switch, YOU STILL HAVE LOW BEAM headlamps.  By way of the parallel circuitry offered by the auto lamp system, your low beam lamps will still get power.  **KEEP THIS IN MIND for future troubleshooting to avoid making invalid assumptions.

post #1-includes both exterior marker lamps and a single relay for headlamps
===Practical, passes heat through the M/F switch and no one seems to find this to be an issue

post #4-Another option , offers maximum redunduncy, requrires more peices parts, allows one to isolate circuits easily.

post #11- solves heat across both the main and M/F light switch as they are only providing ground out to dual relays. 
===requires more pieces parts, simple to do, offers redunduncy and circuit isolation.
post #36 -This solution does a very nice job because it solves the heat problem across both the main light sw and the MF switch, in conjunction burns both your hi/lo elements together.  On a budget you might find this candle power to make it not worth buying HID lamps ect. 
===Best bang for your buck with fewer parts in that compared to some of my examples, its a clever way to get the most out of your lamps.  It is a  little more tricky to wire and the user can define if he / she wishes to jumper the "HI/LO" wiring or not do so and still maintain good main light switch heat managment.  The more i stare at this , the more i like it.  i just fear i may forget what i did later on down the line, thats what notes are for and wire tags


additional thoughts per discussions.............
adding a 70 or so amp relay to the ign switch will solve heat on the yellow wires and if you use a DPDT, one could also relive heat on the gray/yellow wire as well...or just use a separate relay just for that. Better discuss the ign switch on a separate thread though .

Tom~~ thanks for the quick review, i see what you are doing, appreciate your expertise to this thread and will post up what we finally do in the next few days.
I am pretty sure we are going to bundle an ign switch contactor mod with a headlamp relay mod and kill both birds with one stone so to speak.
From what i understand, we can use qty 1) ign sw relay approx 70A and qty 1) smaller 40A relay for headlamps and wire these two in such a way that achieves the job.  This will be an interesting helpful example once i lay it out against an evtm.  thanks again.

Ok so I just read the thread over agian and Im kinda confused which is the best way to go about this(so many diagrams posted). Ive got the old run the fogs and it gets the headlight switch to hot and they start blinking on and off. So hot in fact I almost could touch the rocker part of the switch. Not to mention upon doing a voltage drop test to see if I could figure out why one headlight seem dimmer(apparently just in my head!!) I found that some where in the system before the headlamps Im getting just shy of a 3v drop in high and low beam. Ive got plenty of relays sitting here just need to know the best route to go

call me tomorrow at 304 772 3411, i have no clue what your speaking of.

which part?

I can not tell if your post contains information "in general" or your post contains information "as a result of doing this mod".....
If you are just discussing symptoms of your lighting acting up, and not a result of adding these relays, then i know what your comments mean...
they mean that your headlamp switch is getting too hot and your wanting to fix that. 

marker lamps:
Post 1, follow it to do your marker lamps.

headlamps
Post 11 is what i installed in my sons car
Post 36 is really cool and does what post 11 does with less parts

i dont have any problems working with you on it, just ring me or my other line is 4082.

good luck!

did you see the relay / fuse bank i made for this work?
its in another thread but here is a quick pic

Ya I know whats causing it. Now Im trying to remedy it. Right now I want to get my highs and lows on a relay/relays so one I can give the poor switch a break and get full battery power to them. Possibly the fogs to so I can take the biggest loads off of the switch. Im just trying to figure out which one of the ideas would be the best for me. Partly because some of them are under the hood it looks like and some under the dash, if Im looking at them right. Of course the diagram distort when I save them and try zooming it to read them better to. Ive found thats the 1 downside to scanned images.

Upon looking at them agian it looks like post 11 I believe will accomplish what I want to, to take the bulk of the loads off the switch and give my headlights full power. Thanks for kinda clarifying things.

Oh and if anyone doesnt believe Im getting close to a 3v drop on the power side I can take a pic of my meter while doing the test. Its surprised the hell out of me!! I havent had time to track down which component is causing it, but I will when I have time just to see if its something I can eliminate.

If you want a better copy, i can do it.

post 11 gives you the most circuit isolation on the concepts.
i have in the picture 3 relays

1 for healamp low beam
1 for headlamp high beam
1 for exterior marker lamps.

there is room for 3 more relays
all circuits i just listed are mounted on that metal bar along with a fuse block.  you may want to copy cat it.
ill post up the link to that in a second,, brb

ok,,

here is the link to the fuse/relay setup i did.

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34320-Headlamp-HI-Low-relay-mod-**complete&highlight=

enjoy, take your time and please let me know if you have auto lamps or not, it will become very clear to you why i ask this question later if you dont answer.

Nope no autolamps in my car. I only see 2 relays in post 11 diagram?

do post 1 for exterior marker lamps
do  post 11 for high beam & low beam  (or post 36)

there is another element to this ,,

Tom Renzo said he's bypassing the variable resistor in the headlamp switch completely,, makes sense and since we all run dash bulbs on max intensity anyway, it makes a lot of sense.
i dont have a map for that mod but not too hard to figure out. 
i like to keep each feature of the car as much as possible so i prob wont do this to my car.

i have 83 model with 4 lights.  The top of the pictures shows how I am considering to wire up the lights. Then I read about only one relay.  The bottom of the picture is me trying to understand how to use just one relay for low/high.  If 87a and 30 are connacted until 85 is triggered by high beam, that seems like low beams would be on all the time.  I might have missed read something in earlier post, could some help me out, I would love to just use one relay if can, if not no big deal. 

Would 30 have to be triggered by the headlamp switch 12v, 85 to high beam wire, 86 ground, 87 high beam lights, 87a low beam lights.  If this is the case using a relay this way is not getting a good 12v from battery is it?

You can't use just one.  You need 2, 1 to turn the lights on and off, and the other to switch between low and high. You may have to increase the fuse to 30A if you were to use the combined beam mod.  OEM's might typically use a 30A fuse at the source, but then they'll add a 10A fuse to each LO beam after the dimmer relay and a 20A fuse shared by both HI's, also after the relay.  At least on newer stuff.

You need 2 relays as foe points out. And i always remove the BUFFER RESISTOR in the cluster and run pannel lights full bright and eliminate the variable dimming . This has been a proven fix that i have been doing for years Just me. Good luck

(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/002-3.jpg)

New connector and 2 relays to slave out HI/LO and slave out around headlight switch. Hope this helps!!

(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tomrenzo/003-2.jpg)

I always put the relays close to the switch. Not under the hood where the elements can play NASTY and corrode them!!!

Foe,
On 4-eyes, two lights are dual element Hi and Lo and two are Hi only.

A minor detail.  The difference then, is that the blue wire in my diagram should hit all 4 lights and there would be little point to the purple wire.

I wired mine as shown in post #54. I thought this way high and low has its own fuse and relay, if something happens and you blow a fuse or lose a relay you will still have lights. I have yet to road test this, any advantage to Foes diagram other than less wiring?

1. This is the way the autolamp cars are setup.
2. Takes most of the current out of the turn signal switch.
3. Takes most of the current out of the headlight switch.
4. the low beams will work even if the dimmer relay fails, or if the turn signal switch fails.

I have a redundant design for people who don't trust relays, but it's on my computer at home.  I'll post it later.

Hey Foe, wasn't thinking about you guys with autolamps. So the 2 relay diagram in post 54 should be fine without autolamps.  I trust relays more than I trust running full current thru the headlamp and signal switch, plus if one does fail it is easy enough to pull a horn or ac relay if needed.

i really think you should be examining the latest drawings.
this thread is the reason why i gathered them up and put them in one spot, my diy link has them captured though so they can always be found, that and the thread was starting to get a little distracted from its original intent so i back completely out of this one and generated another thread with all the fruit gathered in one spot.
this thread was a "review only" thread.

much more accurate information is captured in the below link and its much more informative.

Relay adds to remove heat from headlamp and ignition switch
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35095-Relay-bank-mod-COMPLETE-for-IGN-switch-Headlamp-and-Marker-lamps

Just a point on this. I like neatness and very little controls on my dash and car. I converted the MIDNIGHTER to DRL. Made the instrument cluster full bright and removed the headlight switch completely. I have been doing things like this for some time now. Years back i admired some cars at the shows that had simple plain dash boards and and it stuck in my head. Just something i wanted to throw out as a talking point!!

:hick::hick: