*EDIT*
I have now moved this project over to my black Tbird and am using the white one as a parts car.
Everything is still going to be updated in this thread.
*update*
Here are a few of the parts I already have or am getting soon.
http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/forza/
Very rarely seen wheels from the UK. I am getting them custom drilled for my car.
http://www.teamdynamicsracing.com/pro-race/Pro-Race-2black.htm
Definitely keep us updated here! Time attack should be a blast in a TC.
My seats are in! Time to order an intercooler, and injectors!
We've made A LOT of progress on the race prep. 99% of the sound deadening / caulking material is gone. I uploaded a new episode on youtube! Sorry about the quality... it got screwed up in processing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fofIfR4vAG0
Heat gun and putty knife. Takes that shiznit right up if you can get under it right. Might have to go over a few spots and clean the sticky off.
I also hear dry ice and a hammer work too. Just freeze it and hit it with a hammer and it comes right off. I wish I knew that when I did mine. I got right at 40# of sound deadener off the floors.
That would have been nice to know, but all the stuff is off now. I did the finishing touches with the wire wheels. The trunk is painted and I'm moving to the floor next.
Here is my parts list for 2011
2011 Race Build
Boport Pistons $549.00 or Stinger CP Pistons $580
http://www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=26
http://www.stinger-performance.com/suspensionparts.html
Boport Head $1250.00 or Aluminum Borport Head $2950.00
http://www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=72
http://www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=58
Boport Stage 3 Ported Upper/Lower Intake Manifolds $425.00
http://www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=13
Garrett GT35R Ball Bearing Turbo (600HP) $1342.95
http://www.frsport.com/Garrett-GT3582R-GT35R-Ball-Bearing-Turbocharger-Customizable_p_16163.html
Stinger PIMP ECU w/Tuner Studio $670.00
http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.html
1000cc Injectors (640-700HP) $230.00
http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.html
38mm External Wastegate $170.00
http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.html
2.3 to SBF Bellhousing Adapter Plate $175.00
Aluminum Flywheel $335.00
http://www.stinger-performance.com/suspensionparts.html
Stage 3+ Clutch $435.00
http://www.stinger-performance.com/suspensionparts.html
Short Throw Shifter $75.00
http://www.stinger-performance.com/suspensionparts.html
Brembo Big Brake Kit $1500.00
Bullet Proof Edition T5 Transmission (600+HP) $1790.00
http://www.promotionpowertrain.com/TRANSMISSIONS.html
4.10 Moser Gears $190.00
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2005-2010-mustang-gt-tech/69270-s197-mustang-tsb-list-3.html
Snow Performance Stage 3 Water Methanol Injection $500.00
http://www.snowperformance.net
Summit Fuel Cell $104.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-290106/
Roll Cage $1500.00
Frozen Boost Water to Air Intercooler Kit (600HP) $299.99
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=216&products_id=1006&osCsid=8afa0ae1d6e3c19af4764096411a5ea3
Full 3 Inch Custom Exhaust (header/downpipe/out) $1000.00
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Total Cost $14241.89
There is currently no suspension because I don't know what kind I want to get.
Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
Installed
Big NPR Front Mount w/ Stinger's Kit
Dual Piston BOV
Optima Battery
New Performance Radiator
Taurus Fan
Stinger's 3 inch downpipe with magnaflow 3 inch race series ler
Pics to follow tomorrow! :)
I cant find anything but 1.5" lowering springs for these as far as suspension goes... Maybe SOMEONE would know where to get coilovers or maybe mustang coilovers will work with little to no fabbing.
I think an inch and a half to two inch drop is good. If you get the car to low, it loses it's usefulness. Have to come to a near stop to cross a speed bump. Not worth having a car that drags or easily bottoms out for the sake of looks.
Sorry for not posting the pics yesterday! Here they are!
The Big NPR Intercooler wedges perfectly between the explorer radiator and the car's radiator housing.
I did have to modify the stock radiator clamps to make them work, and had to cut the feet on the bottom of the explorer radiator a bit because it was too tall.
(http://i51.tinypic.com/bimkpc.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/29ngtis.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/21exnht.jpg)
Also, don't forget your 65mm TB and MAF. :) I would also get some carbon fiber work done, take off the quarter panels, hood, new grounds effects, carbon trunk. If you're running in a straight line take off the sway bar. Crower rods, Steel crank, Adjustable cam gear, new oil cooler as the old one is inferior and relied on the lower heat from the smaller turbo as well as the fact that the stock turbo is also water cooled. The Holset HX45 is a meaner turbo. Bore .030 over. If you do get some bubble mold or carbon work done, make sure you replace the front ground effects. You can make air dams that will put air flow over the tire, similar to the Lambo Spyder design, that helps give the front of the car a bit more downforce. Also do a ram air design from the bottom, ,also off another air . I actually thought about putting an oil cooler in the factory intercooler spot, but that was just a thought and would probably look sloppy with the hood up. Just a few thoughts, but def don't foget the Throttle body and the MAF.
LOL, I cant get low enough. I do agree that once you start to usefulness its too much. For me that is just handling. I s everywhere, part of the deal.
Maximum motorsports coilovers here. I think I should've gone with koni's, but I bought all the bilstien stuff. 650# in the front, 500# in the rear. I should probably go higher in the rear because in a hard corner, it still picks up the inside front tire off the ground.
Just got
Boport 1.9 Cam
Holset HX35 with rare oil and water cooled seven blade billet wheel and vband internal wastegate
Hallman Pro Boost Controller
SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch
Pics to follow as they come in the mail!
Hallman Pro RX Boost Controller Installed
Works great and as advertised. Low boost spring gives me 5 extra PSI over stock as advertised (from 10 to 15) I have yet to try the high boost spring (advertised to give much more but I'm going to set it to the 18 PSI the gillis valve failed to hold)
Turbo spools up a lot quicker!
(http://i51.tinypic.com/14c46ea.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/aekwf9.jpg)
Very Rare version of the Holset HX35 with
-Billet Wheel
-Water and Oil Cooled
-Internal Wastegate with 3in Vband
-T4
Wheel is tight in all directions and spins great!
Paid $380 bucks!
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2m5lztj.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2pq1jmb.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/969w60.jpg)
Adjustable coilovers would be nice though... So you can lower it further when you want to play, but leave it a little higher when daily driving.
Id run the boost controller inside... I can tell you it is much more tempting to bump it then. Boost is like a drug.
No real need to do that untill I run the holset.
How much weight do you think I will save from:
Full Fiberglass Front Clip
Hood
Trunk
Doors
Lexan
I was guessing 400 to 500 lbs?
http://www.hairyglass.com/thunderbird.html
I don't know how much the doors weigh, I can only assume at least 75+ pounds. I know the hood is heavy itself. I would say around 300-400 easy. I don't know about 500 though. The decklid, windows and front cover/fenders don't weight that much.
Actually all the parts are Carbon, not fiberglass. Should be able to reduce weight considerably.
Just a little update for everyone.
Rebuilt all the injectors and ran new fuel lines for E85. (have 1260cc lucas injectors for when my ECU comes in from Stinger)
In the process of replacing clutch to the stage 3+ SPEC but am having trouble removing the Pilot Bearing. I will probably be able to get the thing off today.
Put a fresh gasket on the oil pan, which will hopefully fix my oil leak.
Cleaned like 30 pounds of old oil dirt and grease off the bottom of my car... lol
Next mods after this.
Sway bars
CHE Control Arms all around
Chuck's Motor Mounts
Custom Gauges (probably autometer)
Clean up dash
Got my clutch in, and cleaned up everything! I can't really go to hard on it, because I am going to obey the 500 mile break in rule for the new clutch. I still have an oil leak, but I suspect that it's the valve cover. From what I read online it seems the ranger valve cover is the way to go.
I am at work, but I will post pics of the progress soon!
alright! that's what i'm talking about.. pennywise! hahah
Yeah man, gotta love punk rock.
I'm going to say you mean valve cover gasket, not the valve cover because I think the ranger valve covers are stamped steel instead of the cast aluminum ours are. The ranger gasket is worth the extra money!
Yup I meant the gasket :hick:
Good to know!
Ok, so... I may have been overboosting my ihi for the past 6 mos.. I found out the stock boost gauge is garbage. Turned my boost down to 16 and am slowly inching it up to a correct 18. The good news is the turbo took no damage at all. My car is wayy faster than its ever been now!
So... the car started running lean and I couldnt figure out why. Come to find out, my strainer tore and a bunch of dirt clogged up the pump. I cleaned it out and the car is running better than ever. Put some E85 in to take advantage of the new lines and injectors. Ive picked up a substantial amount of horsepower.
2011 Parts List Update
Things I have left to buy
Boport Stage 3 Head $1250.00
http://www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=72
Boport Stage 3 Ported Upper/Lower Intake Manifolds $425.00
http://www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=13
Stinger PIMP ECU w/Tuner Studio $670.00
http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.html
Short Throw Shifter $75.00
http://www.stinger-performance.com/suspensionparts.html
Roll Cage $2000
2004 Mach 1 Mustang 8.8 rear with 11.5 Vented Disks ABS 355 Gears $800
Cobra 13in Front Brake Conversion $400
Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Cell $800
Chuck's Motor Mounts
Things I have already bought
Innovative Wideband
Stinger Intercooler Piping and Big NPR Front Mount Intercooler *installed*
Holset HX35 with Billet Wheel Oil/Water Cooled Center
Hallman Manual Boost Controller *installed*
Corbeau Racing Seats *installed*
E85 Fuel Lines *installed*
Lucas 120lb Injectors
Boport 1.9 Cam
Spec Stage 3+ Clutch *installed*
Nice! Have you taken it to the track lately? I'm sure you would beat tyour 15.8 time.
Unfortunately I have not had time. Another thing is I think the Walbro is dying because it's still running lean on pump gas. Sometimes it will run fine and other times it leans out. There is probably a bunch of dirt that got in the pump.
Some of the recent work I've done
Rebuilt all injectors, cleaned fuel rail, installed Kirban FPR
(http://i54.tinypic.com/f5ueg.jpg)
New flywheel and pilot bearing
(http://i56.tinypic.com/69fkt1.jpg)
SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch Installed
(http://i55.tinypic.com/rk4oly.jpg)
Bellhousing cleaned and installed
(http://i52.tinypic.com/t9fl7l.jpg)
Just a recent pic of the bird :)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/jsiryf.jpg)
Ordered an Aeromotive Stealth 340lph. Should be in by wed or thur. :)
Welp... my fuel rail just cracked... right below the fpr. Is this common?
I crimped my fuel line, and am going to finally run E-85 lines the entire length of the car. (before I only had E-85 to replace the non metal line)
2 Questions.
How many feet of line do I need to accomidate the feed and return line?
What size should I go with to support 300-500whp? On an Evo site I read 3/8th for feed and 1/2 for return is good. Can the feed and return both be the same size?
Sorry for not posting in a while. I was hybernating this winter!
Why run a smaller feed line than return?? I'm thinking that with running E-85 you'll need the bigger feed line. Someone should chime in that would know more about that than me as I'm toying with the idea of running E-85 all the time but haven't figured out what I need either, besides, I'm not that far along.
wait.. what?! 1/2" return line?! 1/4" is more realistic, but that's too small if you ask me.. 300-500hp will live happily with a 3/8" feed and return line.. i think what you may have stumbled across was for a turbo's oil lines.. that's the only sense i can make of 3/8 feed and 1/2 return
Oops... I meant to put a 1/4 return line in my question. Not 1/2. Either way it doesn't matter. I just installed 3/8 for feed and return.
with 3/8 feed and return, you should be in good shape.. i don't remember, but i think these cars came with 5/16" feed lines and they're 'ok' up to about 350hp or so.. some people squeeze more than that out of them
The lines I am using now are temporary until I decide on a path for 3/8 steel lines.
With the Aeromotive 340 now installed, I am going to experiment with full E85 and a 50/50 mixture. Mess around with fuel pressure... etc. I should have the right combo by the end of the weekend. Mind you, this is also temporary until I install my 120lb hr injectors and Standalone ECU. Then I should be able to run full E-85 on full Boost.
I will post some install pics tomorrow.
I was just reading in the May 2012 MM&FF an article that when running E-85 that you basically need to increase the size of the feed/return lines due to the fact that you need a larger volume of E-85 compared to the size needed for gas at a given hp level, that's because of the lower energy output of the ethanol compared to gas. As far as fuel mileage goes, I can live with a 20 - 30% decrease in mileage over the higher price of 93 octane.
I have personally seen 75WHP gains from a good E-85 tune. There are several hurdles if you want to see those gains. ECU needs to be aftermarket or mapped for E-85. Injectors need to be approaching 1000cc or better. Fuel lines need to be 3/8 or better.
Ran the lines and all... but forgot to install a filter in line. I only ran the car around the block. Anyone think that did any major harm?
Alright, so I ran seafoam through the vaccuum line. Followed the instructions and everything worked great. Throttle response is much better and it got a good clean.
I finally found the problem though. When the carbon was burning off, smoke pored out of two small cracks in the manifold. One that I knew was there, the other I had no clue about. To top things off, the gasket that connects my turbo to the manifold is bad too.
I am convinced this was causing my bad A/F Ratio and various other problems with boost response etc...
I am going to go aftermarket, but was wondering what is the better option.
Bob's Log Header
I hear it's very durable, and there is provision for EGR. Not something that really concerns me, but it's nice to have.
Stinger's Header
I am leaning towards because of the ability to take the turbo off with relative ease. Also, I am going to need an external wastegate to run an HX35 properly.
Does anyone have experience with either of the two?
i've seen a few horror stories with the stinger header cranking and the wastegate snapping off.. never heard anything bad about the bob's log
Bob's it is then!
Now... I have to decide if I want stock mount or center mount. I think it might be easier to fit that Holset with center mount.
Just got Stinger's "PIMP" ECU in the Mail. Now I can put my 1250cc injectors and Wideband on and use E-85! Wooo! Dyno run soon to come!