As you all probly know tax refunds are gonna be showing up soon so I've been shopping for goodies.
I've found mustang ho pistons, heads, cams, and even a whole HO engine.
I was wondering...could I:
put the pistons, camshaft, heads on my SO block and use mt TBI intake?
use the whole HO engine with my TBI intake and computer?
I figured I'd probly have to use larger injectors and a different pump...at the least.
-edit-
oh also found a 91 & 93 cougar 5.0 that claim to be HO...is that true? and if so what would I need to do?
I've looked on here and can't find much for write ups...maybe I'm having a hard time since I usually have a fiance, and kids trying for my attention.
the 91/93 5.0 engine has an HO with 200 HP. Eric has a gret writeup and says that your best HO motor should come from an 86-93 mustang. That's here: http://www.coolcats.net/tech/advanced/
Now I don't know much about these swaps, having never actually done one, but from observation and input from others, if you can, it's best to switch out your SO block. I believe the HO blocks have valve reliefs...something the SO doesn't have.
And I hear you on the fiance and kids thing. While they're both great, I can't do the v-8 swap on my car anytime soon...
The 91-93 cougars are an H.O. The thing that gets them is the restrictive intake/exhaust. I am not sure if they have valve reliefs or not. I can't find specs for the cam, but it should be close enough to be
well this is getting put on hold...no garage, landlord is being a prick and won't be able to move for sometime...but information is always a plus.
I generally wouldn't consider an '86 Stang 5.0HO engine, as they had the less desirable E6 heads (same as '87-'88 Tbird 5.0)
Starting in '87, the HO engines (and the truck 5.0, as well) came with the E7 heads, E7 itself meaning 1987.
I'm not sure if the '86 pistons had valve reliefs, but from '87 and up they did.
Another option is an explorer block, but keep in mind most, if not all of those had distributor-less ignition.
Good luck with your project.
ok so toying around looking at parts...trying to find parts to convert to sefi was getting me into the $1000 price range with just the wiring goodies.
So I got to thing about Megasquirt. They have a plug and play module for the 86-93 mustang 5.0(http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtii-v357-plug-and-play-for-19861993-50-mustang-p-418.html), wouldn't that work with my 85 bird? Or is the wiring harness for the 85 different?
I've been looking and the 86 tbird and mustang pinouts look exactly the same...but I have an 85 lol.
-edit- uh duh on my part...I have cfi...won't work without upgrading to sefi anyways.
CfI is tough to make HO cheap and quick. A SEFI motor would be the easiest route... It's much like swapping a 3.8 to a 5.0.
Well I may have a line on a 88 mustang rail, injectors, regulator, and injector harness. Intakes are about about $60-70 a piece around here. Would the mustang injector harness plug into the harness that runs to the eec module on an 85 and then just swap in a mustang eec module or the MS pnp module?
oh and I've renewed my interest in this because a co-worker keeps saying a t-bird isn't worth modifying and I should get something worth modifying like a srt-4 or cavalier or mustang etc. He's a dumbass, but I have to deal with him on a daily basis and one day I'd like to pull in and say,"yea it was worthless...ya hear that? thats my H.O."
I think the wiring harness is the same it just uses diff pins, or something like that for firing the injectors... someone here will know for sure
From what I understand CFI is speed density with only 2 injectors. If I have to add a few wires in I'm not afraid to do that. I just don't want to be shelling out $600 for a wiring harness like they want....I mean for $600 I could have my pick of either a 351W or a 460....I'd buy them but no where to store them(no engine stand or hoist either).
Jcassity knows what needs to be done to make it work from CFI to EFI... there's a thread around here about that
from what I remember the EFI injectors fire in banks from the computer, and some wires need to be re-pinned I believe
I know your just thinking now so here are a few bullets to stew on..
-Your car (CFI) uses two blue top injectors approx 52Lb high resistance.
-Your computer fires each injector everytime the fin in the distributor is not blocking the magnetic pickup.
-There are only wires from you computer going to the injectors, these are the grounds being switched off / on by the computer while the red wire is hot with koeo or koer.
-The stock fuel pumpe was 65L/hr for all our cars 4cyl-v8 and the fpr narrowed down the pres to 40psi returning the remaining to the tank.
-it is interesting to study what was done on the common "ELECTRONIC Fuel Injected (as stamped on the intake)" V6 motors as they are configured exactly like CFI in that only two pins from the computer controll 3 injectors at at time switching them off/on based on the distributor rotation.
Having said that and if your ambition is to use a CFI (aka chevy TBI), the addition of one more injector to each bank may not have an adverse effect on the computer. The V6 "Fuel injected (not multiport fuel injected)" cars are already running 3 injectors on a single computer output pin but adding another to have 4 on each bank hasnt been done before.
I believe Mega squirt uses the same approach in that it controls 4 injectors at a given moment,, which makes it a mirror of your existing 5.0 now but less 3 injectors on each side.
Another option to is to take the CFI apart and hone out the lower half of the throttle body and add larger butterflies. I dont know if that will make you happy or not but there is a lot of restriction on the lower half that could be opened up more to complement the stock intake runner size.
An HO cam requires an indepth understanding of the valve train and the block provision changes. as an example, crawl the web for this phrase "convert to a roller block, 5.0" . Most people dont bother and just start thier project with a roller block.
Im just skiming the surface, figure out which way you want to go. If your looking for something different like keeping the motor and figure out a way to have the look of SEFI but keeping the computer as EFI, then you'll figure that out soon enough. Im just speaking in general , until you figure out which way you are going.
Thanks for all the info guys. I've been busy at work, drying 100-300(500 on a bad day imho) cars a day is harder than I thought. I think I'll probly just do the mass air H.O. swap. For now I'll probly do little things in preparation, like going to dual exhaust. I still have to find a way to figure out what tranny I have. I'm told it's AOD, but my cluster has a c3 pattern(p-r-n-d-2-1). The vin indicates a V8 car though? I actually argued with my brother that it's not aod because I can only feel 3 gears....1st up to about 15-20, 2nd to 37-39, then done...no more shifting. So I might try and find an AOD to throw in to...don't know...might wait till I have a garage(just like I'll have to do for the engine/mass air).
Bringing up an old one here. Hope Dragon got it together.
How about a 1988 T-Bird SO short block with a 1989 Mustang HO top end? I'm thinking '89 HO heads/cam and a carbed induction.....Same pushrods? Use '89 HO factory headers?
Push rods should always be checked for proper length/geometry with any head/cam swap.
For the price of going carbed, you could easily just toss in a stang computer, upper intake and fuel injectors for less.
Read the h.o. upgrade in coolcats.net .
No. HO cam and heads on a SO will cause the valves and pistons to collide. You may be able to do one or the other. Only a putty test could tell. Pushrods would most likely be the same, however, Haystack is correct about testing straitness and length. As for the carb, you won't gain much if anything. Fuel injection is much more efficient. If you lived in a colder climate, keeping fuel injection would be a no brainer. If you keep the cat converters, a carb will be a big mistake.
No cold - no cats......guess I will hold out for an engine rebuild to go with the better heads (alluminum) and bigger cam. Just try the HO cam for now. Thanks guys. Fuel pump is . I have a running 289 with all the parts to convert it. No costs other than gaskets - which I would need anyway.
You can use an HO cam and E7 heads with an SO block, probably even GT40/P heads, but I'd for sure check PtV with those.
Several guys here have SO blocks and HO cams and E7 or better heads.
Be doubly sure to check ptv with higher lift rockers, cams, etc.
Just get an explorer/mountaineer engine...you'll already have on it the good heads and intakes , plus pistons with valve reliefs.
Also, the '86 Stang had an HO cam, and pistons without valve reliefs...factory. valves were same size as the E7, and no ptv clearance issues... ;)
Oh boy - what to do - what to do??? I guess it will add time (I'm not working on it at my place) but I will try the HO cam and heads....I will measure for clearance though.
Yea picking up a exsploder motor is the ez way to go
wrong, I have ran a SO short block, with E7's and an E303 cam in my old '88 XR-7 and no problems.
wrong, I have ran a SO short block, with E7's and an E303 cam in my old '88 XR-7 and no problems.
I have already been corrected on that. Thanks
Not to worry chrome Piston to valve clearance is easily checked. You are 100% correct in thinking a setup wont work . Better to be safe than sorry. Even if dun many times before a fool would just assume something is set in stone. Never assume a setup works just because others have dun it. The dynamic stacking can play havoc on that. Even though the above setup will clear. But never not check it. Cheap insurance.
Here is an engine that was not checked. When modifying an engine exact measurements are necessary. The clearance may be there but knowing the exact numbers is a must.
This guy just ASSUMED ALSO AND TOOK SOMEONES WORD FOR IT. BINGO WRONG!!!
.
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/001-120.jpg)
I'm all for grabbing a 96-97 Explorer engine and a HO PCM. Especially if your budget is an issue. The dizzy drops right in place of the Cam sensor and synchro. All the parts work well together and since you need it to keep the PCM happy, pull the intake and timing cover and stuff a HO cam at the same time. The Explorer engine will be used, so you'll have the perfect excuse and best opportunity to swap in a new double roller, and fresh seals, and gaskets. This is how I did mine, and I think I got a lot for my money. I think the whole project cost $1000 to $1100. Would have been less if I had had a decent oil pan on the car already.
I just went with a 1986 Mustang 5.0 H/O engine in my car. The main reason I did was because it has 9.2:1 compression. I can always up grade the heads later. This engine also comes with stock roller rockers. There is a lot of information on http://www.fiveohinfo.com/fox/engine.html#componentweight if you need it. Also Cool Cats has a lot more information on swapping this with a stock 5.0 as was mentioned before. Jasper sells this engine with a small upgrade in cam with a three year warranty. They made sure I got the right oil pan for the transition as well. One issue with the E7 heads is the H/Hump in the exhaust port is huge! I took the heads off my stock engine and cleaned them out. Now that I have a new engine, I will just replace the heads. I'm also moving out in the country, so I will get to take off all the emissions garbage and put on dual exhaust without Cats choking it.