Technical => Engine Tech => Topic started by: jpc647 on December 19, 2010, 12:46:41 AM
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on December 19, 2010, 12:46:41 AM
So I'm starting a new job on Monday and I figure I should do an oil change tomorrow, it's coming up on that time. Now the 5.0 has two drain plugs, and they are always trickling oil. I bought new drain plugs and the new ones (with the new nylon washers) leak.
So I'm either going to nylon tape the threads or I thought maybe use the Permatex gasket material in the can- The brush on stuff. Which do you guys think would work better?
I thought the tape might break free and get sucked up by the oil pump, but I don't know. What do you guys do? I can't be the only one with an annoying oil trickle.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: Haystack on December 19, 2010, 01:12:04 AM
Mine do not leak. I would just use some nylon tape and not worry about it.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: QUICKSHIFT on December 19, 2010, 08:27:23 PM
Quote from: Haystack;346210
Mine do not leak. I would just use some nylon tape and not worry about it.
:iagree:
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: 88CougarGT on December 20, 2010, 03:43:15 PM
I always just use the squishable nylon washer. Seems to work great.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: BadTriumph on December 20, 2010, 04:36:24 PM
The tape isn't going to solve anything. The threads aren't supposed to seal the hole... The washer is. Try cleaning the surface where the washer seats on the pan and the bolt. If there is a cut or debris on either side, it will leak.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on December 20, 2010, 07:21:47 PM
Well the bolts are new and I tried using new nylon washers, but they still dribble. Should I just coat the head of the bolt which sits on the oil pan in permatex formagasket, you know the red stuff in a brush can?
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: QUICKSHIFT on December 20, 2010, 09:47:54 PM
Quote from: BadTriumph;346325
The tape isn't going to solve anything. The threads aren't supposed to seal the hole... The washer is. Try cleaning the surface where the washer seats on the pan and the bolt. If there is a cut or debris on either side, it will leak.
The tape WILL seal the threads. Yes the washer is supposed to and will if both sides of the washer are flawless. The last pan that I couldn't get to seal had the bolt over tightened causing the thread insert to distort outward. The solution was to file the pan flat where the plastic washer seats allowing for a better seal....problem solved.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: BadTriumph on December 20, 2010, 11:12:37 PM
I didn't say the tape wouldn't seal it. I said it wouldn't solve the problem. The threads are only bolt threads, not pipe threads. They weren't designed to seal. If you wrap them up with enough teflon tape, they will seal. You also stand the chance of getting the teflon tape in your oil pan and therefore up in your engine. I know that doesn't sound like a big deal, but if a chunk of it gets caught up in an oil gallery, you could wipe a bearing. Not really worth the risk I would think. Better to fix it right.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: thunderjet302 on December 20, 2010, 11:50:40 PM
You're sure it's the drain plug? If you have a low oil level sensor they like to leak as well. The oil tends to run down to the rear drain plug and drip from there. Mine did that. I ended up removing the low oil level sensor and installing a plug. Problem solved.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: Ductape91 on December 21, 2010, 06:52:00 PM
Quote from: BadTriumph;346325
The tape isn't going to solve anything. The threads aren't supposed to seal the hole... The washer is. Try cleaning the surface where the washer seats on the pan and the bolt. If there is a cut or debris on either side, it will leak.
x2 also, unless the bolt w/washer behind the counter is cheaper for it i use the copper washers on my cars. replace them every oil change and never have any leak issues, try different washers.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: 88BlueBird on January 04, 2011, 02:56:32 PM
Go to the Ford Dealer and buy replacement Drain Plug bolts, the new ones have O-rings embossed into the bolt heads and don't cost much. I have these and they seal great.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on January 04, 2011, 03:24:39 PM
Quote from: thunderjet302;346389
You're sure it's the drain plug? If you have a low oil level sensor they like to leak as well. The oil tends to run down to the rear drain plug and drip from there. Mine did that. I ended up removing the low oil level sensor and installing a plug. Problem solved.
Yeah, mine did that, I replaced that sending unit with a plug a while back, oddly enough that was was the only bolt that didn't leak. Anyway, I didn't think ford would have them, I changed the oil the other day before 88blue responded, but I just cleaned them really well, cleaned the oil pan, and put a piece of teflon tape on the threads. We'll see. If they continue to trickle the small amount they do, I'll go to ford in 2000 miles when I change the oil again.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on January 10, 2011, 12:34:23 PM
Well I changed the oil and teflon taped the thread, but the bolts are leaking again. WTF!? I tried cleaning the oil pan, some of the paint and such to make a better seal, but this apparently did not work. So now what can I do. Buying new bolts didn't work last time, teflon tape on the threads didn't work this time.. I'm out of ideas.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: 87tbird5.0 on January 11, 2011, 10:19:17 PM
mine did the same i found some soft rubber gasket washers in a bag at work idk were to get them but they stoped my leaks
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on January 11, 2011, 10:55:15 PM
Thats wierd. I bought two new ones, just like the ones that were on the bolts from a local pats store last oil change, and they didn't help at all.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: EricCoolCats on January 11, 2011, 11:01:19 PM
I've had oil leaking problems in the stock 5.0 pan in the convertible for years. It all started when I switched to synthetic oil; since then I've tried rubber, plastic, and composite washers on aftermarket magnetic drain plugs. All of them leaked. Took them off, just ran the magnetic plugs. Still they leaked.
Since I'm not going to change the type of oil, I decided to change plugs. Put the stock ones back in...so far, so good. There are no washers of any type on them.
Just throwing this into the ring.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on January 11, 2011, 11:09:05 PM
Quote from: EricCoolCats;349372
Since I'm not going to change the type of oil, I decided to change plugs. Put the stock ones back in...so far, so good. There are no washers of any type on them.
Unfortunately, the problem has been here a while and in the beginning the car had the factory drain plugs. For a while, the first few oil changes there were no gaskets and or thread type. Since then I've tried new washers, and most recently I Teflon taped the bolts, to no avail.
* I really just need a new car. lol
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on February 21, 2011, 11:36:42 AM
I may go to ford and try to get a new drain plug from them at this point. The bolt in there says "China" on it, which could be my problem.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: Beau on February 21, 2011, 03:16:43 PM
5.0 engines don't leak, they just mark their territory..lol
Ford drainplugs FTMFW.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on February 21, 2011, 03:18:23 PM
Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;353540
5.0 engines don't leak, they just mark their territory..lol
Ford drainplugs FTMFW.
If it was one or two drips every day, wouldn't be a big deal. But it's like a quart every 1.5-2 weeks.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jcassity on February 22, 2011, 01:10:47 AM
you've got the wrong drain plug installed. no you personally but someone at sometime has done it to you. with a magnifying glass and light, inspect the threads on the pan. Ill bet you find some of the threads are kinda folded over or inconsistent as they sprial around.
post up a picture of the bolt then,,,,,,,,, a close up of the head of the bolt.
ill bet its not the correct pitch or thread count.
to further justify this.....
IF YOU CAN install your drain plug completely by hand with just a simple little half or qtr turn to tighten, then its worn out or wrong.
on both my cougs, I can only install my lower drain plug about 3/4 of the way then i have to use a socket for the rest of the distance.
you can catch your old oil easy enough with a plastic bag in your old drip pan to keep it clean so it can be re-installed.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: Haystack on February 22, 2011, 03:19:40 AM
I could see what jcassity said pretty easily. Last time I changed the oil in the wagon, I had to un-thread it all the way before any oil came out. No gasket, oring or washer. Does not leak a drop.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on February 22, 2011, 08:09:43 PM
Quote from: Haystack;353592
I could see what jcassity said pretty easily. Last time I changed the oil in the wagon, I had to un-thread it all the way before any oil came out. No gasket, oring or washer. Does not leak a drop.
I can get mine in a couple of thread before using a ratchet. Maybe about half way or so. Now the current bolt is from CAP, I matched one out of the Dorman bins from a bolt that comes with the replacement oil pan they sell. I guess I'll have to swing by Ford one of these days and bite the bullet and allow them to rape me $12 for a drain plug. The front one was from CAP too, it drips about 1 drop a week, literally. Which I have no problem with, lol.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: ronnieburd69 on February 22, 2011, 08:37:38 PM
i would make sure the bolt arent to loose when you start them should be tight after first turn you shouldent be able to screw them all the way in with your hand...
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: thewestie on February 24, 2011, 12:30:13 AM
I have a ford motor sport pan and both plugs leaked rite from the get go had drips when it was still on the stand. Afraid to tighten and waste the threads in the pan. Its been four oil changes and stll havent fixed it. Why do tomorow what you can do next week.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on February 24, 2011, 07:54:14 PM
Quote from: thewestie;353777
I have a ford motor sport pan and both plugs leaked rite from the get go had drips when it was still on the stand. Afraid to tighten and waste the threads in the pan. Its been four oil changes and stll havent fixed it. Why do tomorow what you can do next week.
Well when you go through a quart of oil a week and always have to check the oil, everyday, it becomes a problem, you know? lol
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: Haystack on February 24, 2011, 08:36:16 PM
Or you could have a car with high miles and no oil leak. Ask some of the guys on here that have had over 250k miles.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jcassity on February 24, 2011, 08:58:31 PM
aww,, just get yourself a thin copper or brass washer. ill bet you see no more drips
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: thewestie on February 24, 2011, 10:02:49 PM
Quote from: jpc647;353863
Well when you go through a quart of oil a week and always have to check the oil, everyday, it becomes a problem, you know? lol
I had an old work truck it was fill up the oil and check the gas. I like the Idea of a copper or brass washer that JCassity Suggested
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: Haystack on February 25, 2011, 03:34:15 AM
Checker "o-riley's" had some copper washers that you would use on brake line fittings in the dorman/help section.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on February 25, 2011, 08:35:05 AM
Are copper washers going to seal better than the nylon/fiber ones?
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: andrew beedle on February 25, 2011, 01:01:08 PM
I run the factory drain plugs from the Ford dealership for the 99 explorer 5.0 engines. They have a o-ring molded into the plug. I havent had a leak since!
(http://www.fordpartsuk.com/images/1013938.jpg)
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: thewestie on February 25, 2011, 11:26:51 PM
That pretty
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jcassity on February 26, 2011, 01:08:37 AM
Quote from: Haystack;353896
Checker "o-riley's" had some copper washers that you would use on brake line fittings in the dorman/help section.
yeah, typically used on banjo fittings.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jcassity on February 26, 2011, 01:12:34 AM
Quote from: jpc647;353900
Are copper washers going to seal better than the nylon/fiber ones?
save the lid on your milk container and make one. better yet, make one from an old piece of leather from the tounge of a boot or something. leather expands when it gets wet and its strong. got an old belt? thats actually leather? people think they gotta go buy something every time something breaks. I just fix broke stuff till i have to buy something.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on February 26, 2011, 11:19:05 AM
Quote from: jcassity;353588
you can catch your old oil easy enough with a plastic bag in your old drip pan to keep it clean so it can be re-installed.
What!? I don't understand. I mean catching the old oil in this case would help, considering I changed it 200 miles ago.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on February 26, 2011, 11:32:12 AM
Quote from: andrew beedle;353910
I run the factory drain plugs from the Ford dealership for the 99 explorer 5.0 engines. They have a o-ring molded into the plug. I havent had a leak since!
(http://www.fordpartsuk.com/images/1013938.jpg)
My local ford dealership said they have one in stock. It's $12, which seems like a lot, to me. But if it works for a few oil changes, hey, I guess it's worth it. I might shoot over there today and try it.
**EDIT. I went over to the Ford dealership today and found out the one for the explorer was a 13mm thread, and the one for the 5.0 in my car is for a 1/2 20 thread. Wouldn't forcing the other thread into my pan create problems?
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on March 09, 2011, 10:37:39 PM
Well, I'm almost thinking maybe my leak is not in the bolts. The reason being, my battery cable the one that runs down the front bottom of the motor near the front of the oil pan is full of oil(the loom around it). So, I've done some looking tonight. I cleaned all the smeared oil away,and ran the car in the driveway, it ran for at least twenty minutes. Granted it was on a jack, about a foot up, but there were no leaks. I lowered it and decided to take it for a drive. Right before I turned onto my street, I floored it, getting a little sideways coming back onto my main street. I pulled into my driveway, jacked it back up, and sure enough it was leaking. But it doesn't appear it could be coming from the drain plug. I took quite a few pictures.
(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/jpc647/Oil%20Leak/107_0157.jpg) This is the front drain plug. Looking at the puddle of oil and then the smear, it looks like the oil is running towards the drain plug, not away, right?
(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/jpc647/Oil%20Leak/107_0169.jpg) And it seems to drip down onto the front sway bar(Ignoe the yellow paint mark, thats been there for ages, no one knows what it is).
(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/jpc647/Oil%20Leak/107_0162.jpg) This is the battery cable, coated in oil
(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/jpc647/Oil%20Leak/107_0167.jpg) I checked the harmonic balancer area, it looks bone dry.
(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/jpc647/Oil%20Leak/107_0163.jpg) This is looking up towards the timing cover, besides some splay of antifreeze, it looks oil free from above(ie, not the timing cover)
(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/jpc647/Oil%20Leak/107_0160.jpg) I think this is the timing cover. The bolt is the bolt that holds the battery cable and tranny line bracket to the block. The area in the middle was a little damp with oil. almost looks rusty, but it seems solid.
(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/jpc647/Oil%20Leak/107_0159.jpg) This is where the antifreeze is coming from. I obviously need a water pump.
So now I'm asking all of you, the masses so to speak. What could this be? Am I looking at a timing cover? It's obviously not the rear main seal, and I don't see how the oil could move from the drain plug and get into the wire loom around the battery cable. Why does it only leak when driving, an worse sometimes than others? Could it still be the drain plug? Am I over buttstuffyzing this? I'm not sure I can do a timing belt by myself. Between the disassembly, and everything, I think it's out of my league. Do ya'll know of any ways to test or dial in to see if it is actually the timing chain cover? I've been pricing parts and with everything it's going to be pricey.
What do you guys all think? What should I do/test to figure this out. The car is averaging about a quart of oil a week, so it's a problem. But I definitely definitely don't want to replace the timing chain, cover/gasket, and any other associated parts to find out it's not the problem.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jcassity on March 09, 2011, 11:15:33 PM
cheap fix......... go get a Mass state inspection and have them list everything that needs fixed..........and show you where the leak is.
or.. presure wash the motor off again and look for the source of the leak.
your bottom weep hole isnt leaking on the water pump,, it only looks like a gasket to me.
you have a water and oil leak...like you didnt know that already. So where is the pic of the rear oil plug hole.
Which is it ,, you think you need a timing belt and a chain? v8 - timing chain I4 - timing belt
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: 88CougarGT on March 10, 2011, 07:37:50 AM
Is your power steering pump leaking. i had a similar leak on the eng i pulled from my car and it was one of the power steering lines.
Just guessing.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on March 10, 2011, 08:24:05 AM
Quote from: jcassity;355003
cheap fix......... go get a Mass state inspection and have them list everything that needs fixed..........and show you where the leak is..
State inspection stations don't check for "small oil leaks, etc". I have to go to a certain place for my inspections, as it has the v8 but still registered as a v6. It's more trouble than the car is worth to get this changed. Secondly, I've tried this route. With the intake leak, I asked two local shops to take a look at the car and tell me what was wrong with it, neither of them would. They said they weren't going to diagnose a problem without the "okay" to go ahead and fix it. I can understand it I guess, they don't want kids like me coming in having them tell me what to fix and me doing it myself.
Quote from: jcassity;355003
or.. presure wash the motor off again and look for the source of the leak.
I sort of did this last night. I didn't pressure wash it, but I scrubbed and cleaned all around the base of the motor, and this is how I got these pictures. The bottom of the pan, the crossmember, even the bottom of the tranny pan had oil on it. This is how I've mildly determined it doesn't seem to be the drain plug. The car doesn't leak when idling in the driveway, which is weird.
Quote from: jcassity;355003
you have a water and oil leak...like you didnt know that already. So where is the pic of the rear oil plug hole.
Yes, I do have both leaks, lol. I don't have one of the rear plug, I'll get one for you though. It was dry when I took these.
Quote from: jcassity;355003
Which is it ,, you think you need a timing belt and a chain? v8 - timing chain I4 - timing belt
It's a v8, and I was thinking it may be coming from the timing chain cover? It seems to be coming from above the drain plug. It's not from the harmonic balancer shaft, so I don't know what else it could be?
Quote from: jcassity;355003
your bottom weep hole isnt leaking on the water pump,, it only looks like a gasket to me.
Yes, I agree. But replacing the gasket involves removing the pump, and while the pump is off, it should be replaced. the $50 insurance to not have to tear it apart again is probably worth it. No telling how long the pump will last, it already makes noise sometimes.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on March 10, 2011, 08:27:04 AM
Quote from: 88CougarGT;355020
Is your power steering pump leaking. i had a similar leak on the eng i pulled from my car and it was one of the power steering lines.
Just guessing.
It's funny, I did notice the return, non pressure line clamp was a little loose and there was a little fluid around it. I cleaned it and tightened up the clamp. but there is definitely an oil leak, I'm adding 1-2 quarts a week depending on how much driving I do. Power steering fluid is still right where it should be.
These are the sorta idea i'm looking for. I've chased different washers for the drain plugs, 3-4 times now, and I'm beginning to wonder if I'm chasing the wrong thing. Hoping someone had a similar problem and can advise checking something, etc. I'm out of my own ideas, lol.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: thunderjet302 on March 10, 2011, 04:09:23 PM
Does the pan have a low oil level sensor? If so they like to leak in the middle of the sensor unit. I ended up replacing mine with a bolt. It solved the problem of the sensor leaking.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on March 10, 2011, 04:33:07 PM
Quote from: thunderjet302;355049
Does the pan have a low oil level sensor? If so they like to leak in the middle of the sensor unit. I ended up replacing mine with a bolt. It solved the problem of the sensor leaking.
I bought a plug and plugged that. I checked that a couple of time, it's still bone dry.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: thunderjet302 on March 10, 2011, 04:37:32 PM
Well that's one thing down ;).
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on March 10, 2011, 09:58:36 PM
Well I spent another couple hours outside tonight to find a couple of things. First off, I noticed some oil on the driver side rear plug wire, I took it off, examined it, and found the bottom of the lip of the valve cover to be wet. Well I tried turning the bolt in, it went in probably about 1 full turn, give or take. First good news of the night. Then I looked into the PCV tube, again there are traces of oil in there. Not a lot, and only a little bit was in the PCV itself. Not enough to justify the amounts I'm leaking. But just in case, I decided to pull out a couple of plugs.
(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/jpc647/107_0175.jpg) This is the plug right under where the PCV leaks. I'm thinking this is okay, it looks like the oil is going in, not out of the plug, meaning it's not blowby, its leaking and dripping in.
Just for the heck of it, I decided to pull out a couple more. And now this is where the night starts to turn bad. (http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/jpc647/107_0179.jpg) This look like overheating to me. This was on the plug furthest in the back on the passenger side. I checked a couple more, none were quite that bad, but 2 others had a little redness to them. Overheating?
Then I finally found how oil is getting onto the crossmember. (http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/jpc647/107_0184.jpg) The black permanent marker mark is where the oil pan is rotted, and under "higher" throttle, it sprays out, not a ton, but a half hour of it, could easily accumulate to my problem
So mystery solved. Between the engine clearly overheating, having to pull the engine to replace the pan, and having a slighly leaking PCV system, which has to be from a worn out motor, I think this is the end of an era for me, the end of me and this Thunderbird. The car probably isn't worth the time and money required to fix the oil pan, water pump, and whatever the "overheating" problem might be. It could be something simple, but a couple of guys think it's the timing, I dunno. I might just drive the car, stop even trying to keep the engine fill up and just let it seize up. when the car dies, I could just light it on fire to stay warm while the towtruck/taxi come to get me.
It's been a long disappointing night, all the blood, sweat, and tears i've shed over this car in 5 years, and now it still needs everything, and I wonder if it's really worth it. The body might have a year left, if i'm lucky, and to dump $400 into the car, between an oil pan, a water pump, another oil/filter change, probably should put an oil pump in the car, maybe a radiator, as looking into mine, there is a lot of crud around the tube openings, seems silly, thats a months car payment. Hell, my car isn't even worth $400, and I can't resell any of that stuff, not stuff people look for used..
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: softtouch on March 10, 2011, 11:56:49 PM
I had a hole in a gas tank like that. I put a small O-Ring on a sheet metal screw and screwed it into the hole. Then I covered it with a glob of epoxy. It lasted the until I got rid of the car two years later.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on March 11, 2011, 07:57:43 AM
Quote from: softtouch;355101
I had a hole in a gas tank like that. I put a small O-Ring on a sheet metal screw and screwed it into the hole. Then I covered it with a glob of epoxy. It lasted the until I got rid of the car two years later.
What kind of epoxy? Like the seal-all stuff they use for like gas tank repiars, etc? I'll have to check the side of the pan, to make sure the rest of it isn't too weak for me to screw into it. Maybe all hope is not lost?
Anyone got any idea on the plugs?
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: vinnietbird on March 11, 2011, 07:59:53 AM
Not that big of a deal. Pull the engine (not really that big of a job), swap all the gaskets and the few parts, re-install the engine, drive it.It's a one day job with a helper. Oil pans can be found new for a decent price.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: mcb82gt on March 11, 2011, 09:25:24 AM
Ive heard fuel additives can cause a reddish discoloring. I wouldnt worry about it. Put anything additional in the tank?
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on March 11, 2011, 12:01:46 PM
Quote from: mcb82gt;355129
Ive heard fuel additives can cause a reddish discoloring. I wouldnt worry about it. Put anything additional in the tank?
Yes. I've used a bottles gallons of fuel injector cleaner recently.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: softtouch on March 11, 2011, 04:53:28 PM
Quote from: jpc647;355119
What kind of epoxy? Like the seal-all stuff they use for like gas tank repiars, etc?
Can't remember. What ever was available 40 years ago.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: hypostang on March 11, 2011, 07:49:31 PM
I have had great luck with JB weld and Quiksteel
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: cougarman on March 11, 2011, 09:18:39 PM
Quote from: hypostang;355165
i have had great luck with jb weld and quiksteel
x2
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jcassity on March 12, 2011, 12:02:35 AM
get a nail, wobble the hole out,, then put a rivit in there with some silicone gooped on the rivit.
nice find though,, this is what your hard work leads to ,,finding the actual problem. Hopefully you are wrong about the car chassis being able to last a year.
Good job though,, this one may have kicked many of asses here , we wouldnt have thought of a pin hole in the pan, good lesson.
you could just get a fresh start and pick up another bird,, NC too far?,,lol gold bird by livefast just waiting for you
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jpc647 on March 12, 2011, 12:12:10 PM
Quote from: vinnietbird;355120
Not that big of a deal. Pull the engine (not really that big of a job), swap all the gaskets and the few parts, re-install the engine, drive it.It's a one day job with a helper. Oil pans can be found new for a decent price.
Thats true, the parts aren't too expensive. Even with an oil pump, new gasket, the water pump and the radiator, I'm looking at around $400 or so. The problem is removing everything to get the oil pan out. The motor has to be taken out/lifted a good 6-8 inches. Having to take everything off in the process. I'm all about doing things myself, but thats a lot of work. I might try to bandaid it with a screw/epoxy until it's warmer out.
Quote from: jcassity;355186
get a nail, wobble the hole out,, then put a rivit in there with some silicone gooped on the rivit.
nice find though,, this is what your hard work leads to ,,finding the actual problem. Hopefully you are wrong about the car chassis being able to last a year.
Good job though,, this one may have kicked many of asses here , we wouldnt have thought of a pin hole in the pan, good lesson.
you could just get a fresh start and pick up another bird,, NC too far?,,lol gold bird by livefast just waiting for you
My dad suggested the rivet too. The goop would have to go on after the rivet is popped and would it seal? It would be on the outside of the rivet. I wonder if that'll work though, the pan is obviously weak and I wouldn't want to try to pop the rivet and pull a chunck out of the pan. I'm happy I found the problem, it was a lot of work, but your right, it sorta did pay off. And in regards to the car chassis, one strut tower has already been patched, the other other one is getting really crusty, and the bottom of the car is riddled with holes. I fixed some last summer on the drivers side running board/fender area. Now there is a small hole in the passenger side, same area. I know this cars' days are numbered. It's been driven in new england every winter since 88. It's tired. NC is too far, I don't know how to set cam timing, and getting it here would be costly. It is a nice car. I wouldn't mind picking up a clean turbo coupe around here. Mine had it's issues, it was probably better economically that I sold it when I did because nothing was too bad, but I wouldn't mind picking one up. It'd DD drive it though. Everyone around here has that awefull red iterrior. I want the blue/gray or blue interrior, or the leather black and gray. Only options. Outside color, not too much of a concern.
Quote from: hypostang;355165
I have had great luck with JB weld and Quiksteel
Isn't that the stuff for radiators? I've seen jb weld around, seems like it should hold up to the heat of the pan.
Title: Well it wasn't the drain plugs. See post 46 for culprit. :/
Post by: jcassity on March 12, 2011, 02:07:35 PM
the goop would go on the rivit then insert the rivit in the hole. it should seal pretty good. If the car runs now and you have just a code 34, then id seriously start looking for a daily driver and dismantel this one. Sell all the parts to your hearts content knowing the car still lives on others.
its a thought you should consider,,you know now everhthing works so why not sell known good parts. start taking pics in preparation for this...thats what id do,,if the chassis is that rotted.