Hey guys, odd request, but if anybody has it you would! I burnt up a wire the other day, and it's proven hard to find - here's the details:
The best description from my mechanical book states that it's a "Circuit Jumper Wiring Assy", part number 12638. It's the wire harness that goes from the positive (+) solenoid connector (where the positive battery wire connects) to a plug that connects it with a larger wiring harness.
It's for a 1987 Cougar 5.0 - but I believe the Mustang 5.0 assembly would work as well. I would like a new one, but from what I've heard so far it looks like I'm going to have to go used. I've attached a couple photos for reference. Thanks for any help!!
Jason
I think those are fusible links...?
I have some, but they're being used :hick:
Check out the threads about folks going to the parts yards if you haven't already, someone should be able to get you what you need pretty easily I'd think :D
so what you are saying is you cant install a new fuse link?
notice the wire size change in the area you are holding the fuse links. the rubber block is just a splice point,, not the fuse link. the wire itself is the fuse. The smaller wires are to open up in the event of catastrophic failure. normally the open occures at the splices.
Look closely at the rubber splice blocks and you'll see the fuse rating on it.
Thanks for the info, guys - not much of an electrician and I haven't installed a new fuse link before - the problem area is actually above where I am holding the wires, it caught on fire and you can actually see the bare wire. Is what you are saying that I can just open up those rubber splice blocks, replace the wire and I'm a-ok??
Thanks for all the info!
yes, follow the diagram below.
just start from the starter relay and work your way backwards using the diagram.
the blocks of rubber are just the splices. the fuse links are the wires. its easier for ford to stenciel the block with the fuse link rating rather than the wire.
word of caution on this though,, insure you use the proper type and guage wire. find one of the wires and use a magefying glass and look for the wire type information. I do not thing your average RHH/RHW is appicable in automotive but i may be wrong. you do not want to use ?SOL" wire ie- solid. you want to use "Flex" or "Standed". "Flex" typically has a higher tolerance to ampacity and if your looking to build a fuse link, its probably not the best choice in my opinion.
to be extra conservative, you could replicate the fuse links and step down one wire guage smaller than listed. Evidently what you have caught on fire for a reason, that should be determined prior to moving forward.
If you do this,, please take a razor blade and open up a fuse link block and show everyone its just a splice point,, not a fuse link.
One day maybe all of us can invent a TVSS system for an automotive application. that would cure all this catchin on fire stuff. But then again, the MOV's would probably need to be hauled in on a wheel barrow.
apparently your fuse link did its job.
now,, if you cut open the rubber block closest to the wire with damage,, you notice three wires join up there at that one point. those three wires transition to one wire. this puts a lot of current on that one splice.
i will bet you that if you open up that splice link and compare it to the others, you will find more corrosion or signs of heat there.
unplug the connector i have an arrow pointing to.
use your meter and check for continuity (ohms) from the connector up to and beyond the one single splice labled as 2. (you should have an open or no reading)
use your meter and check for continuity (ohms) from the connector up to the damaged wire point labled as 1.
*you should have a resistance reading. Keep probing down the wire towards the connector until you have a constant zero ohms. This tells you where you can cut the wire.
once you have determined where you can cut the damaged wire at the area near point 1, check all your other wires from the connector up to the large single splice point. THey all should read zero ohms.
Cut all your splice links at the point you determined was zero ohms on the damaged wire near point 1.
Cut the splice link out near point 2
strip all your conductors and splice them together.
done.
what you end up with is a harness approx 3'' shorter now which makes your existing splice links even more effective.
careful with that little pink wire pig tailing off the splice link near point 1.
while you have that connector unplugged, inspect the male/female terminals for signs of heat or corrosion. you can extract any given terminal using a small jewlers screwdriver or a paper clip to depress the plastic retainer clip.
good luck,, dont burn the car down.
Excellent info, jcassity!! I'm in your debt! I'll post an update when I'm done
REQUIRED READING>>>>>>>>>>>>>
please read this if you own a 2.3 and consider a 3g swap "death of a tbird"
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...ht=fire+melted
ok,, the link isnt working, hope someone else can help find the target so this guy can review lessons learned.
Here ya go Scott ;)
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=15802&highlight=3g
how did you do that?
Yeah, so after reading that, I was wondering if someone would like to be hired to fix my wiring harness?!!? lol
It's really not hard....Had the same thing happen about 2 years ago. Bad ground + bad connection = smelly under hood.
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=15895
You asking me?
I searched electrical tech for "3G", and scanned through the thread starters till I saw DMC24guy.
I remember when it happened, and I have a thing with names lol...
That thread is an interesting read in it's own write. (pun intended, lol).
Back to topic fellas! :D
As you requested, here's a pic with the rubber sleeve cut off - and it's just a couple wires smashed together like you said! Also in the picture I included a couple butt connectors, will one of these work to re-connect the wiring after I hack it up?? I just hope I have enough usable wire!
Thanks guys
this and all other fuse link splices are very important connections.
leaving them to the chance of a mechanical connection is going to cause risk later on with respect to unexpected events costing you time.
if i were you,,, i would solder per below.
Buy some solder flux (do not buy into the fact that solder has flux in it.
flatten out all your exposed conductors
add solder flux to each exposed wiring
group all your wires overlapping about 1''
clamp down on two spots of all the wiring with 2 needle nose pliers (these will absorbe all the heat from your torch preventing your wiring insulation from shrinking up.
heat up wiring in between the two needle nose pliers.
when solder flux starts to bubble, add solder to the copper not exposed to flame.
the solder should wick into and in between all layers of copper strands.
quickly wipe off the greasy look off the solder job the flux may have left behind.
quickly slide your heat strink into place insuring it overllaps the insulation on each end so no exposed wires are present.
the heat shrink should shrink up around the copper and possiblly on the rubber wire ends.
add another layer of heat shrink and use torch to make it shrink.
done.
Impressive instructions and diagram, helps a ton! If you ever need any custom vinyl graphics for your car let me know - I'll do it for the cost of the vinyl and shipping since you've been such a great help, jcassity.
the fat lady hasnt sang yet:hick:
Go ahead Jcassity, for a while there, I was kinda thinking that I was the only guy who still solders any more..... Butt connectors are fine and dandy here and there, but most all the wiring I do, I solder, especially if there's any chance it's gonna get wet or have moisture around it anytime. If you look closely at his last picture, you can see that there is still some corrosion still on the wire that he's gonna butt splice together. Should have cleaned it off with a wire brush, and then put dielectric grease on it before the butt connector, If you have to do it, do it right.......
ok,, got it fixed.
replaced the open 16awg wire
removed the next lower black splice cover
installed (red) new 16awg , sorry but red is all i had
grouped the upper section of 3 in and 1 out with a 6awg burndy barrel splice and crimped all coated with flux. heated up splice and silver soldered. washed off with alcahol. added 3m rubber 600v splice tape (kind that activates a glue when you stretch it), slid 600v clear heat shrink in place and shrunk it. Added more 3m tape over that.
next, moved to lower splice where there are 2 wires in and 1 16awg wire out.
repeated process above.
looks good, boxed up and going in the mail monday by the wife. stuck in some No oxide compound and a few zip ties.
Took main connector apart and cleaned all the contacts there since the connector had tail tail signs of corrosion especially on the pin associated with the open 16awg fuse link.
The original fuse link connections are cad welded so you lost a total of 1'' on your harness and thats all.
The zip ties are for a couple reasons. I noticed you broke off your clips so when you put it back together, use a zip tie to wrap around both the male/female connector longwasy to keep the connector closed. you have to fish it in between the wires but around the whole connector.
I zip tied the fuse link block back onto the red 16awg wire but you can get rid of it if you want. I just thought it would be a good idea to place it back on its associated wire since it documents the oem fuse link size. just cut the ties and remove the tape on either end and it come off. Its the one I had to slit long ways to pry off.
scott
I did away with that connector and hard-wired everything together. The connector was brittle and starting to crack.
i have scotch locks ideal for that type of stuff, they allow for max of two isolated in/out wires. they are about 1'' long and full of anti corrosion compoud. just snap em shut
scroll down and its the blue oval button one called a full pair / drop pair inline.
works pretty good on most applications, but they are kinda bulky.
I havent found these in a larger size than 16awg though.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Telecom/Home/Products/Products/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20O4M7_nid=NZW3RHPDRDbeDP16W8FB2Ngl
I had actually looked into replacing it with the GM style weatherpack connectors made by MSD, but the price was simply not worth it considering how small of a run those wires are.
Wow Scott -
This looks great! Thanks so much, can't wait to get it installed and the Cougar back up and running - without having to worry about my lack of electrical knowledge! That's a good idea about the connector - I hate taking them apart anymore because they break every time I do. I'll zip tie/electrical tape it for now, it would be nice if somebody would re-pop them though! Thanks again,
Jason
thanks man
you really cant beat the cad welds under those rubber blocks.
i looked at them under a one of my work scopes i use to check cad welds on ground rings,, really good bond. be assured that the weakest link in there is the fuse link.
now that i have introduced soldered / cirmped joints,, that may change. I am not really sure why ford went with the cad weld,, now that i think about it more and more, its likely i am right and that it puts all the current on the smaller wire.
i am sure you are good to go though,, id run with it.