I just installed a new ignition switch and a new starter solenoid.
Motor turns over fine and is getting spark.
I burped the line on the rail and straight fuel, no air, came out. I also hear the fuel pump prime...
I got #1 to top dead center and timed it. Nothing, I assumed it was on the wrong stroke, 180 out, and spun the rotor around, once again, nothing.
The motor is an HO swapped in and the ecu is installed...
The only thing I can think of is the injectors aren't pulsing...Anyone have any other ideas?
There is one loose wire coming from the main eec harness that I can't figure out what it is. I can't find a wiring diagram with it in it The wire is of a cream color... When I pulled the loom off the harness and re-wrapped it, I didn't find any other cream wire...
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showpost.php?p=229386&postcount=3
Awesome post, will check for voltage today... Maybe I have a bad batch of injectors, seems odd for all 8 to be out at the same time though.
I gave a set of 19lbers to a friend for his F150 and it would only fire now and then... Seven of the eight were stuck from setting up(I removed them from a running engine)...
If the EEC isn't getting the pulse from the TFI the injectors will not fire... Also if the TPS voltage is at max(over 4v) the EEC goes to dechoke mode and shuts off the injectors...
, I wish you were local...
So if I get what you're saying, the TFI can throw spark but not fire the injectors?
I borrowed a Matco tbi/efi injector tester kit from a master tech at work today, so I will know a bit later on if they are pulsing or not...
Mine acted that way last Sunday.I could hear the pump as well,but my pump was still bad.New pump,and it fired right up.
If it drives the coil, it should supply the pulse to the EEC...
Unless there is a wiring problem back to the EEC...
You could have lost the 12v signal to the injectors, the EEC fires the inj by providing ground...
Well, noid lights were blinking so I'm getting power to the injectors.
Runs with starting fluid...
I'm going drain the 4 gallons of 10 month old gas out and see if it will run...
It fires when I start it over, but it sounds like one cylinder, I'm pretty sure the gas is garbage...
I'm so excited though, she was running with one open-header and one open head:hick:
Wish me luck yo...
Your injectors may be stuck, like I mentioned in my first post...
I know man, your opinion is still there, we'll see what happens when I run new gas in it...
undo the injector connector,
manually put 12v on the injector,
feel for a click.
if no click, proceed to two posts above mine.
you definately have a dry rotted fuel line in the tank. it connects the pump to the line on the tank... right now your probably just dumping your fuel right back into the tank. if you repress the valve on the fuel line and have another person turn the car on, but not over, it should squirt like crazy,, but if it dribbles then u need to replace that line...its like two dolars..
Naw, theres no dry rotted fuel line it's fine, it sprays like crazy lol
I was gonna drop the tank tonight, but other things came up.
Update:
Tank is dropped, 6 gallons of fresh Shell 93 Octane has been dropped in :hick: lol
...but, still nothing...
I ended up buying a noid light set on sale today from the tool truck so I will actually check all of the injector plugs instead of 2 today.
If they all are getting a signal, I am pulling the injectors and soaking them in Seafoam...
Wish me luck...
They are all getting a signal. I've got them out and they will be soaking in seafoam later this day.
I think im gonna make a homemade sonic cleaner and set them in a coffee can and set that ontop of my dryer, gotta do laundry anyway :hick:
thats totally fricking nuts crazy awsome!! I swear that the most creative thing ive heard in a long time.
the washer might do better on spin
why did you drop the tank to add fuel or,, take fuel out and put in good stuff?
All you had to do is go to the eec self test connector,
jumper the tan / light green wire to ground,
turn your key forward
the fuel pump will then run constant (granted you already have the feed line unhooked).
this is the way i usually c00ch a gallon or two of gas to cut grass.
Wait, are you being serious or no?
I didn't know you could jump the eec connector and have it run constantly...but, if I did that sears would have an even bigger spot on brown, old gas all over there parking lot:hick:
I dropped it to empty it and fill it with good gas...
Wait, are you being serious or no?
I didn't know you could jump the eec connector and have it run constantly...but, if I did that sears would have an even bigger spot on brown, old gas all over there parking lot:hick:
I dropped it to empty it and fill it with good gas...
Well, I got the new injectors in and i've gotta crank her over a bit but.............................she runs on her own gas! lol
She won't idle howver, and I know the timing was way out, but, she's running and it's a step in the right direction.
yep,, dead nuts serious.
Pump runs continuous when the tan / light green wire is tied to ground and the key is turned on. When the key is turned off ,, the pump will run for about 5-10 sec then cut off.
The tan light green wire is the ground supplied to the fuel pump relay. This wires ground is supplied by the computer. the wire is branched off and up to your eec self test connector as well. You will find this exact same color wire at the base of your fuel pump relay in the pass side trunk area near the hinge. The other small wire is the relay coil power. When the tan light green gets a ground from the computer, it will energize the coil and suck the large contacts together which have the larger wires (power in/ power our). The large yellow wire is coming from your starter relay (power in) and the other large wire sends power out to the fuel pump inertia switch then to one side of your fuel pump.
Some good advice was given earlier about the hose in the tank. ITs about 3'' long and bent at a 90 so as to finish the path of fuel flow from the pump and up to the metal output line fitting via a couple of clamps. It would not be the first time ive heard of this line being cracked at that bend. You should've replaced it when you were in there. BTW, just fyi,, the super charge 3.8 pump is a really good swap as far as LPH go. Its not too agressive but is a great improvement over what you had stock. Its availability is vast as well and fits snuggly in your existing shock boot. The sock however does not fit.
Ahh, good info...
Next step is to try and get the car to idle on its own so I can time it. I'm pretty excited and I can't wait to drive her once more. I've got to put the passenger side header on, p/s pump and a/c compressor on, the belt, and find an electric fan that I can afford (going to scour ebay now)
you got pretty decent options out there on fans, and unusual options you would have never figured on to! look at some of the cram and stuff engine bays with dual fans. Ive noticed consider amounts of current draw reductions for the same rpms. Makes for a good thinking pattern on a budget especially since most any older electric fan will command a 3g swap today.
as for the car running ect,, get your timing set right, make sure there is less than 1 volt on the green TPS wire, make sure you have 30+ psi of fuel presure with a fuel presure tester taped to your windshield (lowest reading during AOD SHIFTS), (40+ at idle). Having 40psi at idle does not mean squat, you may have constant good presure at idle but under a load, Ive seen the psi drop to 20. Make sure you have perfect vac lines everywhere . On the 5.0, you can short belt your engine and leave the smog sitting there doing nothing. On the 3.8's , you have to remove the pully and the super thin plastic finned fan by popping it off, then you can short belt the 3.8 (87 and down that is for the 3.8)
less then 1 volt throttle closed right?
Vac lines are fine, did that already...
She has already been short-belted and the smog pump is gone, first thing did when I got the car. I gotta find a screw on fuel pressure gauge...
My brother bought two of these fans http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-inch-12v-Electric-Cooling-Fan-SBC-350-BBC-SBF-302_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q32Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1318QQhashZitem380052518340QQitemZ380052518340 and they made it about 4 years for him...could be a possibility...
"This is a reversible fan that can be used as a pusher or a puller."
Duhh!!!! thats normal with dc motors,,lol.
Now compare those ampacities to that of the MarkVII as well as the not so mentioned but ever so important inrush current. A clamp on meter would read prob what they are selling by , but no inrush is posted.
The tps- Yes, with the engine off and key forward only. If you cant get it below a volt, you use a round file to oblong out the mounting holes so you can reinstall it and rotate the TPS CCW and get that perfect setting. I dont know what happend years ago but you use to be able to get a tps new with oblong holes.
So, I presume the optimal reading would be 0.00v?
Now, if the engine coolant temperature sensor isn't hooked up, would it cause the car not to idle?
I do believe it was you that sad it wouldn't run, if it isn't hooked up, awhile back when I had put the E7's on...
Why did Ford make the canister purge solenoid and ects the same style plug...?
My 88 TC likes it TPS to read 0.95v. I don't know for sure for yours but I would bet it would be good at the same reading.
no
you need less than a volt,, not zero volts.
.6v -.9v
as for connector types and such, you can find many duplicates in most any automotive application. you just have to define each connection by the wire colors and the respective wiring schematic.
As for the ECT/ACT
My old 3.8 engine would not start with either unhooked. I do not know exactly why but i am sure it has something to do with the electronic hand shaking in the eec firmware.
I chuckled when I read this, lol...
Would it just turn over and not run?
Honestly, Scott is it? I wish you were nearby for all the help you have been to me...I would like to shake your hand...
It would crank but no start. I played around with this a couple of times later on and confirmed , without the ect / act connected the engine would not work in the hull effect / tfi signals to make spark.
I assume also that the injector pulse was absent as well.
the act / ect both have set reistance values,, (50kohms ) iirc and since the computer cant see that, it would not start. I have the exact sensor info in my diy, i think they both are 50k.
Thought I would throw an update out there...
Haven't touched the car, and I quit my job at Sears =/
I'm waiting for my final check to come in the mail, and it better have my hours they didn't pay me my first paycheck :-X
Just for shiznits and giggles, as far as the idleing goes, if the TPS is getting the correct voltage, where should I turn to?
IAC is usually the next culprit followed by the EGR system. Let us know how the TPS works out first ;)
Should the IAC be getting a constant voltage with the key turned on?
can you post up the current situation on the car,,, a lot has changed.
Going back over this thread, I assume the following..........
car starts fine
car idles rough
spark is nice and blue / white
fuel presure is @35psi-40psi with the vac line unhooked and plugged
alt voltage output is 14vdc +- 1v
TPS green wire to ground and black wire voltage is less than a volt key on engine off an no throttle applied.
TPS green wire to ground and black wire voltage is 4.6vdc key on engine off with wide open throttle.
ACT has been removed and cleaned with carb cleaner
ECT has been removed and cleaned with carb cleaner
IAC has been removed and all ports cleaned with carb cleaner.
with your harmonic ballancer rotated to "0" TDC by hand, your rotor is pointing directly at number 1 spark plug post on the dist cap.
Your number 1 piston is at the very top
Your number 1 valves intake/exhaust are both closed.
You have sprayed carb cleaner around all vac lines while the car is at idle and listened for changes in rpms when carb cleaner hits various intake connections and vac lines.
At night, you have let the car idle and sprayed water around various electrical connections such as spark plug wires and checked to see if there is any arching in mid air....
or.............
you have manually felt the wires as the car runs to see if you get the shiznit shocked out of you.
with key off engine off, you have removed the egr vac connection and stuck a vac hose on the egr nipple. you have sucked on the other end of the vac line and checked to make sure the hose holds your tongue up to it for a min or so........or ... you have a vac tester which allowed you to put vac on the egr and it holds vac for a min or more.
The color of your coolant is not brown or milky
The oil has no indication of water or smells of fuel
the stator assembly down in the dizzy does not have any metal shavings stuck to the magnet. To access, you remove the metal round disc held by the two hex screws and reinstall.
the timing has been set and checked to be at 10deg btdc by the following process..........
Key off engine off
remove dizzy sprount connector yellow jumper short plug
start car
loosen dizzy lock bolt.
time engine to 10deg btdc with light
tighten dizzy lock bolt
shut off car
install dizzy sprout conn.
start car and listen for rough idle
Verify your TFI points generally towards your driver front corner.
get busy:D
yes,, as is the case with most of your sensors primary input power per page 59 of the EVTM posted as a sticky in electrical tech.