Ok, I know the basics of setting my timing using timing marks and a light. The only problem i have at this point is knowing where to line up the timing marks on the crank pulley. I don't have any sort of marker on the engine. Is there something missing? Is there something for me to line the marks up with?
the marker pointer should be on the passenger side. its a piece of meteal that bolts to your water pump and sticks out past your balancer. i dont have a pic, but its should be the only piece of metal that petrudes out far enough to cover/point to marks on the balancer.
you mean this
(http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/8306/1007118nr7.jpg)
Thanks guys, I'll see if I can find anything like that. Where does the timing mark line up with? The lower socket-looking thing or the other part?
the pointy, pointer thing. its not really well shown in that pic, but its not the 'socket' portion.
Okay, got things lined up fine. It runs like when lined up at 8-10* btdc which is the stock setting. So I tried lining it up with the socket portion and still running bad. It runs great right in the middle of the two. I replaced the distributor recently, is there a possibility I've got it installed incorrectly?
Did you disconnect the SPOUT connector while you were setting the timing? If you didn't disconnect it while setting the base timing it will be severely retarded...and run like .
To find the SPOUT connector, follow the yellow wire off the TFI module. You will come to a connector that has a little removable jumper. Pull that out, start the car and set the base timing. Reinstall it after setting the timing.
yeah
there's a great possibility you you have something wrong.
setting timing per my diy link
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Distributor check and reset
remove #1 plug
insert a decent wad of tissue paper tightly in the spark plug hole
quickly bump engine over until you hear the tissue paper pop out
you are now on compression stroke for number one cyl but not tdc
looking directly at the crank pully rotate the crank CW until pointer is on tdc
as you turn your crank, use a narrow screwdriver in the plug hole and touching the piston
as you rotate the crank, the screwdriver will rise as you hold it.
you will feel a flat area where nothing happens then it changes
go back to where you were and line back up to where the piston is tdc.
if the pass valve cover is off, both #1 rockers should be kinda loose
remove dizzy cap and rotor should be pointing directly at number 1 post
if its ahead or behind, you are off and dizzy needs reset.
**if its off by like a half inch or so, then dont pull the dizzy, just adjust by advance or retarding.
The proper or typical look of a dizzy is the rotor point at number one post and the TFI pointing
towards the drivers front corner. (this is just my opinion). After the dizzy is checked, you have room
to advance either
direction.
RESET
remove 1/2 bolt,keeper at the base of dizzy
remove tfi plug
the dizzy will be tight to get out at first cause of the oring at the base
be careful if you do not know whos been in your motor before.
its possible the oil pump shaft may not have the keeper on
if it does not, the oil pump shaft may fall down into the timing cover/oil pan
if this happens, your screwed.
there is no way to tell if the little slip on keeper is installed or not.
you can only tell if the motor is opened up.
Gently rotate the dizzy back and forth while trying to lift it.
lube up the oring with grease at the base of the dizzy and the hole
when you get it out, guess / estimate your location/orientation of the rotor.
its a good idea to look at other engines as to how their dizzy sits
the orientation of the tfi is important for setting the timing later.
drop the dizzy and fully seat it.
check to see if it will be point to number 1 post
if it does, slightly snug the keeper / bolt and use your timing light to adjust.
with the key off, remove the sprout connector.
you already have a paint mark on zero and a different color mark on 10deg BTDC.
start engine and use you timing light to inspect the timing.
rotate the dizzy cw or ccw to dial in 10degBTDC.
shut off car and plug in sprout conn. Restart engine and test drive.
**sometimes you may have to nudge the crank either cw or ccw a wee bit to get the hex shaped
oil pump shaft to mate up inside the dizzy shaft. this gets tricky and if you cant get the dizzy to
seat, you gotta keep tinkering with the crank either direction while trying to seat the dizzy but only
turning the crank just a wee bit.
That helps a lot. I'll give that a shot tomorrow.
just incase you didnt get that,,,,,, remove the sprout and reinstall the sprout only with the car off.
Thanks for the tip. I imagine plugging things in while the car's running can't be good.
And a picture to help....I know yours is a 3.8, but the module and spout will be the same.
Got everything set CORRECTLY now thanks to the info on the spout jumper. I had no idea you had to pull that. It would explain why the thing never ran right when it appeared to be correct. Is the actual timing spec supposed to be 10 +/- 2? It runs great at 12, average at 10 and not so great at 8.
If it runs fine at 12* and you hear no detonation, leave it at 12*.