Alright, I've got a hot lead on a great solution for our cars.
There is a builder in the U.S.A. that has expressed interest in building Fox Thunderbird/Cougar tubular K-members. That's right, specifically for our cars. No more drilling a Mustang K-member, no more shimming, no more bending or twisting to fit. Just bolt it up and go. This K-member allows the maximum amount of room to work...so headers, starters, etc. will be a breeze to change out. It's made of chrome-moly and is extremely strong. The K-member would be available with optional spring perches so that you could use stock springs and stock A-arms (no coil-over conversion). Or if you do want coil-overs, no problem...they're planning to make tubular A-arms, again made from chrome-moly. So far there is just one that has been produced, and it was used all summer in a dedicated race '83 Thunderbird. No issues have been reported...the owner says it's incredible.
So far, so good, right?
How about a price of $289 US. ;)
I know a few of the guys here already have Mustang-tweaked tubular K-members on their cars, so their input here is invaluable. What I need is good, solid commentary. The company is willing to mass-produce them in small batches (read: group order) but only if there's enough interest and, of course, people that actually have the money instead of saying, "Me too!"
So whatcha think? Feasible?
I got my car for $1,200 3 years ago now parts and labor i spent another $15,000+. Any price under $300 is cool with me even if its $299.99 and as long as shipping is not 2 bad it would only take me 1 or 2 weeks to get the money for one if i did not just go buy stuff all the time.
Sounds good to me and its cool to say you had one of the 1st parts for your car made and to take 1 day away for cutting up or spending a few mins to a hour to find a way to get something to work would be worth the money and the fact of this being a popular mod for our cars now makes it nice.
How many for a group order? and will it maybe be read yin the next 4 months?
Well, this is the best time for me to ask.....
Other than it being lighter, possibly stronger and more clearence, what are the advatages over the stock one? I'm swapping engines and rebuilding the front suspension soon, and if the engine is out, the K-member is right there.
I just don't want to spend money where I don't have to right now, but I don't want to take the new motor out right after installing it.
I got like $1,200-800 a month to spend on car parts i want one and i will buy one soon even if its a PITA i just would like to support a place that makes or wants to make parts for our car 1st than give UPR more money for right now. I just want it bulit right and the cost to not be sky high and for a easy install.
That would be pretty cool. I know there is a guy here in Iowa that makes any of the 79-04' Mustang tubular k-members, but out of steel. He can put any motor mount that you want in them... including....sbc!
I will take one now if I can buy one. I need spring pads but no motor mounts. I can always cut them off.
Just gettting ready to build headers for the Cad-T-bird so this will be nice.
Thanks Eric, let me know.
TED
I'll take one. It'll be a good mod for when i pull my motor out to have the car sprayed. I'd prefer to keep stock spring mounts.
:2c: provide for relocating the control arms in and up and I'll take two.
my motor is in now i did think of doing a stang one but held off cause everything fit right and ChuckW MM. but do plan on doing a better motor a few years from now and in the future plan on doing a upgraded K-member. So I’m not the guy your looking for but will most likely give them business in the future.
how much would shipping be to my place? I will take one, but I need a definate price first.
What are the adjustments made to the suspension geometry?
What A-Arm length are they using?
Thanks guys...I'll forward the questions and hopefully will get an answer later today. My guess is that this K-member would probably relocate the A-arms slightly.
are they only going to do retail sales or are they going to sell to shops? just a thought of curiosity. i would love to have one. depending on when they make them will depend on if i can get one.... might just have to buy it on a Credit Card!!!! establish my credit by buyin stuff for my car! win win.... kind of
Eric what company is this? If you say Granatelli I'm gona lay a smack down.
Cost is less a concern for me as quality, strength and design. I don't want my front wheels moved 3/4" forward. I don't want a rig designed for drag racing as the won't hold up to the stresses of hard cornering. A complete SLA kit would be good too.
An SLA is a very difficult package on this chassis without some pretty heavy mods.
The MacPherson set-up can work very well if set-up right (Look at the M3's).
"The K-member would be available with optional spring perches so that you could use stock springs and stock A-arms (no coil-over conversion)."
This is SUPER important. We're building a nasty road race 88 right now, but the class rules (as in every class except Unlimited) REQUIRE stock suspension geometry and "style". That means no coil overs and no relocating.
As long as they make a stock location one with a stock spring-style setup, we're in.
Make the motor mounts for an *ahem* LS1...
:D
The company is in Michigan...it's a private builder, not a large corporation. Shipping to Canada should not be an issue, nor should pickup at their location. All the specs for this K-member were taken directly from a 1983 Thunderbird so we're talking Mustang-style motor mounts, and probably stock Fox Mustang/T-Bird/Cougar A-arm lengths.
ok guys, the company is in Michigan, we built a K-Member that was custom for my car so that i had no drilling or shimming... the wheels stayed in the stock location, the price is going to be around the 290-320 area. spring perches will be a additional item not quite sur of the price on them yet... we are just trying to get some intrest and maybe a small buy in to get these things going...... also we are making rear control arms that will be chromeoly and have urethane bushings.. any thoughts are appreciated
Thanks Ron
734-776-5987
Griggs has a SLA setup that bolts in rather nicely. It uses the current spindle and does away with the strut using a coilover shock. It's rather spendy but it works, but not alot of complications or mods. They are able to run a 315 tire up front with it.
Are these k-members going to be for straight line use only?? Will they be structurally sound enough for roadracing/autocrossing??
Ron,
Are the control arm mounting locations stock?
Your car is a drag car, correct?
the K-Member will hold up to road race....
Chuck
yes my car has relocated uppers, but the new arms we will make will be stock location. we are looking at 2 sets, non adjustables and adjustable uppers...
Ron
I was refering to the front A-Arm mounting points, are they stock?
i would take two asap if i could get them
sorry Chuck YES the arms are in stock location
Ron
Sounds like something I would be interested in. How about the possibility to offer both stock arms or offset A-arms? Which 4130 are they using? (Normalized or Heat Treated) Possible to get it in mild steel?
Hillbilly.
we are trying to keep this simple, we want NO part of fully customized parts for a car that won't see much sales, we went into this after doing 1 off parts for my car..
Ron
How about some pics of the parts made for your car?
I'm in for one with stock suspension mounting points. Would prefer something that would take a mount for any engine you'd find in a Mustang, even a Cobra or V6.
HMMM. sorry I don't think you will ever find that...guys let's not get carried away now, we want this to be simple I don't plan on making 100 different
Ron
speaking of k-members.....here is a very unique one.. just a thought. find you and 81 or 82 mustang with an INLINE 6 take that cross member and install it into a t-bird with a 300 inline 6 cyl. boy i bet that would be a torque monster. but it would be the first one i have ever seen or heard of. ?????? give me you thoughts on the idea...maybe when i finish my 84 i might just go looking for it to try...
Ok, I'd settle for something that was easy enough for me to replace the motor mounts on in my garage with a small mig welder only... or a grinder and a drill.
Just a few questions though... Why is what I asked for such a tough request? You're already looking at covering the 2.3, the 3.8 and the 302/351 if you're doing it for our T'Birds and Cougars. All I'm asking for is an additional set of holes for the 4.6 mounts? I think? Or is this thing going to be like all the other performance stuff out there - applies to 302 equipped cars only? I'm no expert but why couldn't you put a piece of flat plate in the area where the mounts fall and drill holes for each mount? Maybe I just don't know enough about building K members...
I'll take one...
How much does it weigh?
How much weight savings in there?
So this would be for the 83-86 crowd, or are the K-members the same for the 87/88? I know the LCAs are different.
You guys are overthinking this.
doodaa, it is not feasible for them to do what you're asking as the K-members are different. The mod motors require more clearance underneath. That's why the steer rack is 1" lower on those cars. The 2.3, 3.8 and 5.0/5.8 already can use the same mounting points.
tireshredder- it would work for the 87-88 cars, but yes, you would need to swap to the shorter control arms. Also different motor mounts would be needed if you have an 86-88 car.
Well shoot, that's not going to work.
Aren't the SN95 Mustang arms (for the spindles/brakes off the same car) long like the 87/88s? Most guys willing to swap K-Members are going to be upgrading brakes as well...
As Chuck said, you can use the Mustang length arms and either use a spacer on the BJ or put in an SN95 BJ. Not a show stopper.
If it goes and the price stays where it is I'd probably still buy one... if I've got to modify something it's probably still easier to start with a piece like this and considering it's cheaper than the Mustang ones it's almost a no brainer.
Seems to me 87-88 have alot a work for them to work.
Not really, that motor only put out 145hp and 265lb-ft in its final year in 96. Sure that peak torque is at 1600 rpm, but that motor runs out of steam REALLY fast. Its also really big and heavy. Okay if you want something with a dead reliable motor.
It is for the classes of racing we're doing. Stock mounting points/lengths is a big deal.
You can't update/backdate?
Dont worry, with his track record, he'll build the car and itll never see the track :hick:
My thoughts were that if you must use "stock mounting locations and lengths", then a SN95 setup would be illegal as well. It modifies the suspension geometry from stock.
If it'll bolt into my 87 TC, I'm game. Looking more for header clearance, and using the older arms bringing in the tires an inch would be a fair trade off. Now, If I could bolt in 1979 Tbird mounts(400), I'd be thrilled.
A few months after I get in a D&D this comes up, but I am not happy at all with it. I would like to see some pics of the prototype. How quick would this happen? I am only about 4-6 weeks from getting mine back on the ground and getting it aligned.
Jim
I'm not looking for one right now (bigger fish to fry at the moment, next project after getting the car back together is gonna be the 351), but what would the durability be like for a street-driven-on-really-really-shiznitty-roads car? I know autocrossing puts some high loads on suspensions, but you're not going to experience the types of bumps and shock you'd get on the road...
If I thought it would hold up to road use I'd be interested in a year or so - the weight savings would be welcome once that 351's in there...
Oh, also if you could compete with CHE pricing...I would be in for a set of adjustable uppers and adjustable ride height lowers. It would be nice if the lowers could also lower(aka MM) the car.
Thanks,
Jim
Ditto that, but If the supply run is limited, I'm still game. Heck, it can be my coffee table if I don't use it right away, lol.
Thats why I aksed about if they were thinking about offereing it in mild steel instead of Chrome-moly(4130). Willing to sacrifice a little wieght. With all the uproar over 4130 right now I wouldn't even think of touching anything made out of it unless I knew exactly what the fab shop was using.
also interested in weight figures and what kind of 4130 they are being made out of.
Within sub-generation yes. So I can backdate an 88 to an 87 or update an 83 to an 86, but I can't update an 86 to an 87.
Also, we have to update the WHOLE car, like NHRA Stock Eliminator. So if I turn my 5-Speed TC into a 5.0 car, I have to downgrade the brakes, put in an auto, drum brake rear, the works.
For the eventual class will be in (for the LS motor) we can update/backdate on chassis structure, as long as it bolts in stock mounting points with no modifications. IE- 13" Cobra brakes/control arms, CHE rear arms, etc. The engine is the only thing allowed to be "unlimited", but the V8's have to stay N/A.
Get it right! It will go to the track a hundred times, it will just get DQ'd the first 75 :hick:
That's why we have TWO projects now, one to get to the track all the time, and another one to do the "slow" work on. ;)
Not a bolt in for a 87 tc, bummer.
TED
I feel so deflated....oh well back on current schedule (10 years,lol)
ok guys I will be trying to finalize this project this weekend with the fab shop... once the deal is finalized I will have a lot more details from you, the shop does not mind having his name out just does not want 100's of call about the T-bird, Cougar parts yet.... I will be the authorized dealer for them aswell as any other parts we come up with .... I am currently a authorized dealer for all of his products now.
Once I finalize these parts this weekend I will post up a poll and need to know who is in..
I am looking for a min of 15-20 units, we need to have all new pads laser cut specifically for this project and they wont cut less than 100 otherwise the price is through the roof..
I am also a authorized dealer for most all of your High Performance need items..
call me with anything you need
Ron 734-776-5987
The factory K-member surface that mounts the steering rack is curves as it nears the rack. This makes relocating the control arms difficult.
If those surfaces were flat/parallel, it wouldn't matter where, or if, the control arm mounting holes were drilled.
Criteria that interest me in order of importance:
lighter weight
equal or greater strength
control arm issue as previously mentioned
increased rigidity
removable or deletable spring perches
straight bolt-in
As Chuck said, pics would be nice.
Thanks
I'd be interested if it had a removable center for oil pan access....Then again, is this going to be a drag racing k member, or an all around (yes, I want my car to handle)????
Its a bolt in if you use mustang control arms, and tie rod ends. People have been putting mustang k-members in their cars for years.
I would only want one if the control arm points were raised to correct the geometry of a lowered car.
I was getting all interested in this idea of k-members specific to the T-Bird/Cougar until I read it would be based on the 83 Bird dimensions.
Just me thinking out loud here, but wouldn't it be more beneficial to use the 87-88 dimensions and longer LCA?
My reasoning is that we can use our longer 87-88 LCA ( as well as 94-95 Mustang-LCA) to get the factory wheel track with the option of using Fox Mustang lowers if we want to use 3/4 inch offset wheels for whatever the reason. Allows us more flexibility in suspension/wheel choices. ( The Fox Mustang guys can't do that)
I am trying to put 2 1/8 inch Kooks 460 headers in my 87 TC and I will have to cut/reweld with gussets on the factory k-frame.( mainly because I want to use my factory coil springs)
Would be nice to have a tubular tho.
Make the control arm dimensions the same as the 87-88 as well as coil spring buckets and I will buy one.
Alan
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s3/83-88T-BirdGuy/RightfrontshotPark.jpg)
Tbird guy that is a really great Idea. Add to that raised control arm mounting points and the option to lower the engine, something tbird guy could utilize being a big block guy.
Yeah, it would be great to lower the engine even more, but header clearance is more important right now.
I dread the idea of hacking up my k-member more than I already have.
Would be wonderful to run the 460 Victor/ Dominator carb set-up.
Those wheels look nice on your TC where did you get them???
Check out the following links:
The beginning:
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=11867
The follow-up:
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=14296
[SIZE="6"][COLOR="Red"]PLEASE SEE SIGNUP SHEET NOW POSTED IN VENDOR'S SECTION HAS ALL UPDATED PRICING[HTML][/HTML][/COLOR][/SIZE]
As mentioned, pics are going to help this along quite a bit. People are going to want to see what they are getting (or close to it).
I totally agree!
Would be nice to see how the k-frame tubes slope down after the frame rail bolts on the passenger side so I can get an idea if my big 2 1/8th inch Kooks will clear....especially the # 2 cylinder.
Just bought a pair of sn cobra lowers for the front. I'm in if it's based on an 87-88 k member
still waiting on weight figures
will factory arms work on it or do we have to get Tubular?
I have been so busy at work and running when possible to chassis shop that is 45 min each way..... will get some close up pics this weekend
I am trying to figure out what the differance is between a 83-86 and a 87-88.... if someone knows can they please tell me
well weight is hard until i get back to chassis shop, I sure aint taking mine out to weigh it.. sorry.. but they are light
regular arms will work with these I rean my stock arms all summer.
I have been so busy at work and running when possible to chassis shop that is 45 min each way..... will get some close up pics this weekend
I am trying to figure out what the differance is between a 83-86 and a 87-88.... if someone knows can they please tell me
well weight is hard until i get back to chassis shop, I sure aint taking mine out to weigh it.. sorry.. but they are light
regular arms will work with these I rean my stock arms all summer.
Would be interested in one for an 87-88 but i would want the stock style motor mount pads as i am using chuckw motor mounts and prefer them over the mustang ones.
Are there any pics of the k-member larger than what's posted in the vendor thread?
What are the weights of the various components?
weighs
K-member 24 lbs
K-member with a-arms 30 lbs
Thanks for the weights.
Do the a-arms include ball joints? Is there a choice of ball joints?
I'd really like to see some big pics of the k-members.
Pm sent
These are some pics of the k-member
http://z71tahoe-suburban.com/iboard/index.php?&act=garage&CODE=12&CID=631
So, this new k-member is a copy of the UPR?
Ummm NO.
Ummm NO.. this is not CHINESE junk this is made in house in Mi. it is a 1 man show that will make these.. and has way more room and Wayu better quality than UPR
GUYS THIS IS A REAL SIMPLE THING, I HAVE SOMEONE THAT IS WILLING TO BUILD A DIRECT BOLT IN SUSPENSION FOR THESE CARS, EITHER WE ARE INTERESTED OR NOT, WE ARE ONLY BUILDING 1 STYLE WE ARE NOT IN THIS TO MAKE A KILLING OR SPEND 100'S MORE HRS BUILDING JIGS TO SETUP DIFFERENT LOCATIONS FOR EVERYTHING,, TRUST ME MAKING CHANGES IS NOT AS SIMPLE AS YOU THINK, WE ARE GOING INTO HIS BUSY TIME HE HAS THE SHOP LOADED WITH CARS THAT ARE GETTING 25.2 CHASSIS BUILDS DONE AND IS ONE OF THE MOST RESPECTED CHASSIS BUILDERS IN THE NMRA AND NMCA. I NEED TO KNOW WHO IS REALLY INTERESTED AND WHO IS NOT. I ALREADY HAVE MINE SO IF YOU GUYS WANT THIS START STEPPING UP THIS IS A LIMITED TIME OFFER.....
RON
Not If It Can't Be Done In 87-88 Style.
Stop Yelling!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry I have to agree. I would buy a 87-88 style today but if you don't have what I need I'm not going to buy one.
Also there's a lack of information that people keep on asking for. Better pictures where we don't need a magnifying glass to see them and weight. I don't think this should be hard to do.
TED
+1 to the two previous posts.
See the picture at the bottom of this message? That's two potential sales, if, IF, it is an appropriate purchase. I've already stated the criteria for my decision.
I agree as well. No pics....????
I was curious as to why the decision was made to use the 83-84 T-Bird /Cougar dimensions? It seems I am not the only one that prefers the 87-88 dimensions.
From what I gather it is replica of the K that is in his car. The shop that built it is (or not) reproducing them.
To be clear, I'm interested in a K that will work on my (two) '85s. Still waiting for pictures.
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=16645
Posting a link to an old link containing incomplete information doesn't get one any closer to answering the unanswered questions the original link failed to answer.
This will not work on a 87-88 T-Bird??? or will it?
Not trying to be mean i plan on getting a 88 TC in the next 2 years and i don't mind giving UPR some money but i want a picture of it in a 87-88 Bird or Cat.
No matter what i think we should save as many 83-88 T-Birds and Cougars as we all can afford.
It won't and that's what most of us are getting at.
It will work
*BUT*
You would need to convert to Mustang-style motor mounts and swap to the shorter Fox Mustang/83-86Tbird control arms. Which is offsetting the cost of the unit.
How could you only make it fit 2 years when the UPR one fits 79'-95' sounds like the frame is the same for all years?Check out this deal this is where I bought mine and free shipping.
https://www.coolblueperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=22
We're not talking about Mustangs, and you obviously don't know the differences between the 83-86 and 87-88 Tbird/Cougar front suspensions/motor mounts.
No one said it wouldn't bolt into the car on an 87-88, it's all the other things people would have to change to use it on those cars.
So you would replace the complete front end and you would leave the stock py motor mounts great idea :screwy: and for the suspension why just replace all the front end parts and want to leave stock worn out parts save your money and leave it all stock.Do it right the first time don't cut corners :burnout:
omghi2u2 (http://"http://foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=12926") :confused:
Well let's see. Alot of guys have already replaced all that stuff on their cars, and I guess they should just spend that money again? THAT is :screwy: If a guy was starting from scratch, then yeah, but the guys who are speaking up are the ones who have already spent the money on said other parts. Having to redo all that work makes the $300 K-member now a $600 proposition or more by the time you replace motor mounts and control arms.
Besides...there are other options besides the "stock py motor mounts", which some folks already have.
This coming from the guy who used a POS UPR K-Member. Talk about cutting corners. :rolleyes: I wouldn't use one of those things on a s rolling chassis.
Chuck
give me a call if you get a chance
Ron 734-776-5987
Anyone in the vicinity have an 87-88 K-member they'd like to donate to Ron?
... my Birdie was sent to the crusher a couple months ago.
In the mustang performance 2 book on page 75 they tell you how to convert the mustang crossmember to use the 87-88 lower control arms. All the measurments are there and I think it would be easy to do.
http://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Performance-Handbook-William-Mathis/dp/1557882029/ref=sr_1_2/102-1991869-7305704?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195025973&sr=8-2
I hope this helps.
TED
Chuck:
I was wondering why you commented on the UPR? Is there some defect with those or is it a fitment issue? Just curious.
Alan
I think UPR k-members are awesome and they are made about an hour form where I live.I have buddies that run N/A 9 sec 310ci motors(blowbyracing.com Rob Mollet)and they have them in their cars and said they have the best fitment and the most room then the others.Seing what they do with these 3,000 mustangs(added weight for specific class)is enough for me to believe so they have my vote. http://blowbyracing.com/robmollet.html (this is his old car he has a new one running low 9's)
What happen to this item anyway? Where are we on this?
TED
They are a "copy cat" company and will never get any business from me.
People like them because of the price, but you get what you pay for and you're not paying for UPR's work...you're paying for something they knocked off.
I'm not getting into the UPR thing but here's a forum with pictures of an install of a K-member, just happen to be an UPR. This kind of tells you how to do the install and advantage of doing it.
http://www.mustangforums.com/m_3178882/tm.htm
Does anybody know how much the coil overs reduces the tire clearence? My tires on my LTD LX are very close now and I don't think it will clear. I'm using Turbo Coupe snowflake wheels with 245-50-16 tires.
What K-members do you like more chuck? Do you like the D&D? I kind of like these because you can order them without motor mounts for cheaper. Did I read somewhere that the lower control arms for the 94+ is a closer fit for our 87-88 T-Bird?
I know lots of questions and I should use search.
TED
Ted
I had lots of I will buy one but when I put up a order sheet NOT ONE persone has signed up... I am not going to bust my ass on this anymore unless I see interest... I am very busy upgrading the entire car and don't have time to stop unless I see more interest......
Ron 734-776-5987
(Good thing I have a Chuck filter on :D )Street driving and autocross/road racing is far more stressful on suspension. A drag car with coilovers doesn't transmit any weight force through the K-member, at least very little, and it also has very little lateral force being applied. When you turn, you will have full cornering force trying to rip the K-member apart at the very bottom as force is transferred to the A-arm mounts.
The 87-88 Thunderbird has A-Arm mounting points set more inboard allowing a longer control arm for the same overall track width at the wheel. This is a superior geometry, as the longer control arm swings through a shallower arc. Now here is where I might mess up but I think I have things pretty straight, the shallower arc means as the suspension is compressed the spindle is not pulled in as much at the bottom for a given amount of compression, so camber stays more negative or gains more negative compared to the short control arm.
I guess the earlier style motor mount attachment allows for the most flexibility in that area. The 87-88 geometry should be conducive to better handling. You can always run shorter A-arms and tuck the wheels in if absolutely necessary, but you can't very easily put the long A-arms on the wide early k-member without flaring out the fenders or running a high offset wheel. Some people will do this to get even BIGGER track width, but mostly just track ws that aren't afraid to take pipes and hammers to their fenders to make things fit.
I at least hope I could shed some light on the situation. If you want to see a GOOD STRONG K-member, go to maximummotorsports.com, then come back and complain about the prices here if you dare.
hey, i resemble that remark.....:hick:
Yeah, I knew you'd pick up on that.
I hate to bump and old thread, but did anything ever come out of this? I'm planning to start building my 85 so it will be ready for track opening in the spring.
No one ever contacted Ron with interest, and there was really no consensus on what people wanted...and they weren't going to make several styles.
I know he was looking for an 87-88 K-member to look at, but I don't think he ever found one, and with the lack of interest, I doubt he would make the effort.
So what would be the next best choice besides UPR? Maximum Motorsports is too expensive for my budget and Steeda is right there with them. Is UPR really that bad other than being a copycat company?
That right there is reason enough that they will never see a cent of my money.
The MM stuff is more expensive than the cheapos, but you get what you pay for and the MM piece is a good one.
to the top for one last try
Okay, I just got to see the pic you posted. From what I can see, this looks to be designed for drag racing, is that right? Do you have a pic of the underside?
Thanks
BadBird...If this thing is a go AND they are worth a , count me and my 85 turbocoupe in. I have a little time as I just found out my beloved 69 Boss block that I have yet to run needs a sleeve due to the hairline crack. I guess that is what I get for buying expensive $hit over the internet......
Chuck...if you are reading this I got your rear shock mounts but have yet to open them. Thanks for getting them to me. I will put them under the tree and open the box on Christmas morning!
Merry Christmas to all...
Ok, I'm new to this thread but wanted to chime in. I'd be WAY interested but can't sign up until I have more solid answers. Mainly, my questions revolve around the "it should be based on the 87-88 K" list. I already have the shorter arms on my 88 to bring my wheels back under the fenders after the SN brake upgrade and if this K was based on the 83-86 model I'd be right back where I started from.
Those are high quality products that are being offered. There seems to be a lot of concern about wheter or not it will fit the 87-88 platform. My car is scheduled for some frame repair due to an unfortunate run in with a Ford Aerostar ler which did a slight number on the radiator support of my car. I will be contacting the frame shop tomorrow about how soon he can get to it. I am willing to volunteer my k-member and control arms for manufacturing specs if they would be interested.
Ron, let me know if they are interested in doing this.
:cougarsmily:
I don't no where the concern is. Swapping has been covered so much on this forum that almost everyone but forum newbies should know that the 83-86 K will bolt into an 87-88 but will require different a-arms for proper track width.
I think the bigger concern (coming from some 87-88 guys) is that by building it to 83-86 spec you restrict your number of possible combos. For example, I know with my setup, an 83-86 K would be completely useless because it would have my wheels sticking out 1/2"+ on each side, again, and there are no shorter arms as I already have the 83-86 spec arms.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but making this K to 87-88 spec would allow:
1. 83-86 stock brake guys to use it (using 87-88 or cobra a-arms I think),
2. 83-86 big brake guys to use it (stock a-arms - sn brake inrease track width)
3. 87-88 stock brake guys to use it (stock 87-88 a-arms)
4. 87-88 big brake guys to us it (83-86/fox stang arms- sn brake inrease track width)
and for a very small few, 5. There is a setup (slips my mind who has it, please chime in) that uses something like +30mm offset wheels with SN brakes, which should work with 83-88 cars.
The dowside of making it 83-86 spec is that you lose at least one of these options. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but pure flexibility for ALL is the biggest vote for making it 87-88.
BTW, thanks for offering your K-member Its1FastCat, I hope it works out!
Yup, as I mentioned in my first post in this thread (and one of my posts in this thread that hasn't been addressed), making provisions to relocate control arms inward and upward would make this proposal more viable.
With mounting provisions similar to the 87-88s, one would have choices of longer/shorter control arms and different wheel widths/offsets.
Installing later model ball joints allows for newer spindles, ie a wider variety of brakes and wheels. For those interested, looking at Maximum Motorsports website will provide some more info on what's possible.