Got to take my first ride with the nitrous. Started with small jets and only about 100hp. Went on about a 6 mile ride, the roads were a bit wet so I took it easy. Only gave it about 5 hits for maybe only 5 seconds each. Worked just fine but by the time I got home it was blowing coolant out the top of the overflow tank, way over heated.
Car cooled down a bit and I checked the thermostat, it was still open and seemed to be working, put a little cold water on it and it closed right up. Filled the radiator and and checked for leaks, don't see any. Let it get up to temp, looked down the open cap and the water is going through the radiator just like it should. Checked the exhaust and I don't see any water coming out there. Timing is right on, runs great.
Took it around the block (2 miles) and when I got back it was blowing out water again and over heating. In fact I spilled some water below the thermostat and it was now boiling. Now this is a very cool day for August, even for the northwest, only about 60 degrees.
Only thing I can think of is that I blew a head gasket, need to do a compression test. I can't hear worth a but my son was with me on the first ride and he did not hear any pinging or bad things. Funny thing is that it still runs great, strong, and idles as nice as before.
My trip to the track August 31st is now canceled. I have to leave Wednesday to take my dad's ashes to California and I don't have any more time for a car repair.
TED (bummed out)
Well, that's a bummer. Is it a wet or dry kit? Did you check the soleniod operations before you connected the lines? Do you have something to pull timing out or did you just set the base lower?
I personally never had much luck with nitrous either. I went faster with a 50 shot than a 150 shot during the luxobarge shootout.
Jim
That sucks Ted!
We were just getting ready to reschedule the day for Sept 7/8 anyways, maybe you can make that?
sounds lean
Just did the compression test and all is 150-155. Vacuum is 15.5 at idle; good for a 238@.050 cam. Holds 20 at fast idle, nice and stable.
Carb is jetted the same as before so is the timing and it has been through some hot days at the track without boil over.
Over heated today without the nitrous, just a 2 mile drive. Fans work as before, no problem. Stat is working good. Water is flowing fine. Why is it over heating? Only thing different is the one inch spacer for the nos plate.
The system is a wet system with a separate 1 gallon fuel cell filled with 110 gas. Very mild hit the first run, worked fine, not pinging. Heck I only have 8.5 to one compression and a 500 inch engine.
Will pull the stat next and see if it improves or what.
Might be able to make 7/8 will let you know.
TED (why does this forum think I'm a senior member, I will only be 47 on the 23rd?)
Pulled the stat completely and now the temp stays where it should during a 6 mile drive. The stat is a 160 degree and it seems to work just fine, it was open when I removed it and then it went right back down again.
I hope this is the problem.
TED
try feeling for any cool spots on the radiator. might indicate a clog, under high rpm.
How's your heat running?
Sorry I'm confused or did I confuse people.
Without the stat it runs at a okay temp but with the original stat installed it was running way hot. I know the original stat works so this really confuses me.
But now I also hear a slight knock when I hold it at about 2k. Planning on a new engine this winter so the question is, do I drive it a the track and take a chance or do I pull the engine now and check it out. I have extra engines to play with but I don't have time to do this before the 7th.
Have not been a good week-end.
TED
I'm referring to the heat in the car. Cold air coming out of the vents with a pegged temp guage would point to a problem.....
Sounds like my 5.0 when I burned a fire ring after I'd sprayed it a few times... It never had water in the oil or exhaust, but would overfill the overflow bottle... I could see small Alka Selsor size bubbles in the radiator when it was running... Pulling plug wires, I found with #3 off, they stopped... Yep that was the cylinder with the burned spot...
Run it at the track without the t-stat. I've found the best ET's are always right before something breaks!
I just don't think I can do this.
Drove it again and the temp did stay down to a good temp without the stat, so I guess it's just a bad stat.
But the bad new is the knock is getting worse and I cannot run it like this. Did the trick to remove the wires one by one and number 4 is the problem. Does not go away with number four but it gets much better. So it's either a rod bearing or piston pin.
I can pull the pan with the engine in the car but it is not fun. Need to raise engine, remove the home made cross member (engine mount) and then pull the pan while supporting the engine up. Bad rod bearing may be a fairly easy fix but the piston pin would be a lot more work.
Kind of just think that I should call Potter for a new set of forge pistons, already have the fancy rods and a 094 crank (best Cadillac crank), and just park the car for the year.
I already have a set of KB pistons here but don't think they would work with nitrous.
But a rod bearing would be a fairly easy and fairly cheap fix. But do I have the time?
Why did it just not keep running for another month? I really do not think this is the nitrous fault, just bad luck.
TED
It's OK Ted. Have any other cars you can bring? At this rate the only car at Meet #3 will be John's GTO!! :hick:
Maybe we should change it to a BBQ and car show?
Food is always good.
TED
Pulled the number 4 rod bearing today and it was spun. Not blue but sure was gone. At first I wonder where the other half was but turned out it was just one side on top of the other.
Need to pull the engine to do it right. This engine never burnt oil and always had good oil pressure (don't know how this could have been).
I tried to just stick another bearing in there but you can still wiggle the rod a 1/16 of a inch. This might exceed the max clearance allowed. I guess it screwed up the rod.
I have all the best parts to put together a great replacement engine but for now I think it will get a stocker so I can drive it. I have a very strong 72 stocker engine that will be free to put in.
No racing this year.
TED
Ugh.....
Wonder if you could get away with installing an undersized bearing to take up the slack?
You need the crank checked and at the minimum polished, and probably rebuild that rod, maybe all of them. The bearing looks like detonation marks to me, so I would suspect lean too as another poster mentioned. Bad part is some of your other rod bearings probably look like this too.
If it was me, I'd have a shop put ARP rod bolts and rebuild the rods, install forged pistons, (maybe oversize if the cylinders need it), balance the crank. I'd think about head studs too or at least good aftermarket bolts. I would surface the block and heads a minimum amount to guarantee a good gasket surface.
Good luck!
Yeah seems it would have been down... But when one spins the bearing, the oil feed to the bearing is generally blocked so they have great oil pressure...
Tom
Head gasket
Well I got busy and put a different engine in the T-Bird. Took it out of a 72 Eldorado. Looks as if it was recently rebuild and very clean inside.
Took out the T-Bird engine, took out the Eldorado engine, and put it back in the T-bird all in two days. All it cost me was a intake gasket, exhaust gasket, 2 can of paint and a tube of sealer. Did it all in 2 days.
The engine is nothing but stock except for the Edelbrock intake and nitrous but at least it runs. Sure sounds a lot more mild with a stock cam; idle at 600 now.
May make it down to Portland on Friday night if all goes well this week.
TED
keep up the good work ted!
Good job Ted! We're planning on racing on Saturday.
Badass man. I can't even imagine how big that motor is in person compaired to the motor comprtment.
That's a BIG motor:hick: . Hey the distributor is on the right end of the motor as well;)