im getting a cam with .542/.563 lift, 110 lope seperation 8 deg overlap advertised duration 224/232
what should i do for a stall converter? i have a 1988 AOD
Will a cam with that much lift work on a stock motor?
No. What else is done to this vehicle? E7 heads in stock form will probably not be able to reap the full benefits of that cam Let's not even talk about E6's. Also you're gonna need a tailshaft governor that let's you go to around 6000 RPM. I'm guessing you have a 7.5" rearend. I'd recommend 3.45's, a 2800 lockup stall convertor and some decent heads with a mass air conversion as I can't see that cam making too much vacuum.
with a carb setup, your likely to have no real visible issues.
with an electronic setup,,,,,,,,,, your just asking to be kicked in the balls. plain / simple ,,,,,,as already said,,,,, Vacuum with that much overlap will prob be the root of all your evil.
I have the same problem,,,,,,,, my cam is gonna bo bye bye.
so what is a good size cam then that i make make great torque and good horsepower?
B or E 303 FRPP cam is my guess.
i want to make more power then that though.
I honestly duno man. I think the heads are holding you back as much as the cam.
with the cam listed you need a 2,600-3,000 with a good steep gear in the rear end (4.10 or 4.56)
^ What Demon and Cass say
im looking at cylinder heads like these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMINUM-SB-FORD-CYLINDER-HEADS-SBF-RACE-302-351W_W0QQitemZ330148602613QQihZ014QQcategoryZ33617QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
im looking for a cam that will give me a really flat torque curve and also be heavy on the horses.
im getting a rebuilt HO motor in my car within the next couple of months, so im starting to buy stuff now for it.
how much power are you thinking your gonna get? your only gonna be in the low 300's
What rpm range are you looking at?
If you use that cam with those heads, watch for coil bind!
Yeah, I'm with Boss. Thats about all I'm shooting for with my car man
yeah, low 300's is what im looking for!! because acouple months after i get my motor, im going to turbocharge it. i want to run 8-9lbs boost. im looking for 6000RPM.
too much cam for 6k max rpm. That cam will peak 7-7500 rpm. 110 lobe centers not good for boost. Too much overlap with blow the boost out of the exhaust.
I would recommend 165 afr heads, (they have reinforced decks) and a comp cams fwnx264hr14. This would be a killer fuel injected forced induction motor that will work well by itself or boost and possibly even with speed density!
AFR is alittle out of my price range though. but it does sound like a good setup though. do you know of any cheaper heads that would work?
200cc intake runner would make it a dog in the lower rpms
^ agreed
Try to save up and get the afrs and the comp cam (btw aint cheap either)
You may be able to pick up a set of edelbrock or twisted wedge cheaper. The twisted wedge have the advantage of bolting up to so type pistons and are some great alumininum heads.
Don't rule out cast iron heads, but for the most part an out of the box aluminium head will likely out flow even a ported cast iron.
LMAO.
You want the biggest cam you can get, gonna get cheap on the heads, want to run a turbocharger, and are limiting yourself to 6K rpm.
:hick:
I can't tell what you want. But it sounds to me like you would be happiest if you just turbocharged the engine that's already in there and running.
A good friend of mine here in town has been 9.86 in the quarter, with a rebuilt (stock) 306, a $300 set of TFS heads, and a pair of TurboCoupe T3s - all in a Ford Fairmont. That should be plenty fast for you, that wound up being around 550hp to the wheels through an auto.
No cam can make power without decent heads, intake, exhaust etc, it's a full package... Don't think about running such a cam on stock heads(E7 included) and valve springs...
A cam of 220*- 225* with 112* lobe center is about what I consider max for a hot street runner... My Stage1 Trick Flow is all I'd ever want... Still it needs a 3200 stall converter to really give back some bottom end...
Read up on some proven street engine combos and see what you want. Don't just go throwing the biggest parts *fancy* parts at your engine and expect it to make 500 hp. What you are considering will run like shiznit on the street. Even with mass air it won't run that good without tuning.
which is better, the edelbrock performer. or AFR 165?
well, how much RPM can a AOD take with a shift kit?
ok, what is the cheapest way to run high to mid 11's without running alot of boost?
Afr 165's, its not even close. :evilgrin: Those heads with the comp cam fwnx264hr14 will make a nice flat torque and power curve just using that combo by itself. Then any kind of forced induction will make that much better :evilgrin:
If you get that setup with 3000 stall lockup or 5spd. and 3.73 posi, it will be a cool street/strip car. Let me know how it runs cuz I always wanted that setup.
Later
ok, thank you for your help!
now for the intake side of things.what intake manifold should i get besides the explorer?
I have a XE266HR form Comp and ported 95 Cobra GT40's...my car is fast enough to get me in trouble.
95? why didnt you just get a 93 so you didnt have to do any modifications to make it work?
i want a cobra intake manifold, but i know for around the same price you can get a higher flowing one, and porting will cost me $150.
93? I have an 88 TC that I installed a 93HO and a tremec. The heads are off a 95 Cobra. Still running the stock intake at the moment. I'm leaning toward a Funnalweb intake, Aussie built. Still keeping it EFI.
Holley System MAX 2 but thats not cheap either i am getting a set of AFR 165s in a few months or AFR 185s after this next winter. For now i got a E303 Cam but i might change it out soon as well and i think i am gonna keep my PTC 2200 stall.
Just whatever you do save up and buy it as a system and don't mix and match stuff
hey, has anybody heard anything about the new kit from Holley? it comes with heads, cam, intake, etc.
Just adding a cam dose not increase HP that much all a cam dose is coach the motor what to do. Do you home work and remember an engine is a glorified air pump so making it breath is key. Then chose a RPM you want to come on at then get a stall converter to match and then and then and then do your home work.
And remember the balance of street and strip
We have basically the same engines:D . I have GT-40P heads though. I'm sticking a GT-40 style intake on mine over the winter though.