ok so far I have put in:
NGK plugs
Accel cap and rotor
ford racing 9mm wires
motorcraft fuel filter
motorcraft oil filter
royal purple 10w 40
I have yet to put in:
Mac catted 2 1/2 h pipe, with gutted cats
and smog pump delate pulley, I must first make a way to add and remove the stuff for that 'smogged' look when inspection comes around
I plan to add flowmaster h back kit
and once the brakes and everything is set
gt40 intake
ud pulleys
and eventually headers
and mass air, and intake
How much of a power boost am i looking it, im gonna take a guess of around 30-40hp?
What should i do to get it running better, smoother??
Which sensors to clean were they are located?
Next questions whats the best shift kit out there to firm up the shifts to get that nice chirp in between gears at WOT
also can someone write up how to remove the intake cause i need to know how to when i go to swap in the gt40, and swap my v/c gaskets
30 - 40 sounds kinda high. Maybe 20. I'm guessing though, and that's all anyone can do unless you dyno it before and after.
yea i figured it might be alittle high, im not looking for alot anyway its gonna be my dd i don't need insane power
Most of your power will come from that intake and the exhaust more than from the tune-up items unless it's running really bad right now. As I said, I'm only guessing.
it did run poorly when i got it, mostly cause it had not been run in 2 years
i knew thats what id get a power boost from. Id love to get it dynoed, matter of fact theres a shop near me, but i need to road ready before that!
would it be worth it to throw exploder heads on it while im at it? or just port the stock ones a little? or just leave it for now? i got a relative with a shop would prob help me do it so. hell if im gonna have it apart might as well make good use of it!
that smog pump delete kit is a joke. you can leave it there and run a shorter belt. you'll still have some parastic drag from the delete pulley, vs none with it bypassed.
your exhaust plans seem fine. for a DD i would recommend a mass-air conversion, looser converter, and gears(3.73's min).
but FIX THE FUEL LINES FIRST! :beatyoass:
fuel lines is NUMBER ONE
looser converter what you mean by that? i was looking into a 1900-2000 non lock up converter
and im looking into keeping my gas milage, so i think 3 73's are a little high, i have 3 55's in my tc rear i could use
as for the delate i wanted all the tubes and shiznit gone, for easier to work on
you want more power and fuel economy? LOL! by a wet kit then. you'll have power when you want it. start with a 75 shot, and work your way up. i meant a higher stall converter.
lol no i ment i didn't wanna KILL my mileage, nitrous is GAY unless your dragging
the reason this is all im doing is so i have ok mileage
youre not gonna keep your gas mileage with a non lockup converter, dude.
ok well converter would be far from now, cause i don't feel like dropping the trans, i really only wanna throw a shift kit in it
i know nothing about them, transmissions and rear ends are 2 things i know nothing about
a tried and true combo would be 2400 stall, 4.10's, e-cam, 1.7 roller rockers, cobra intake, 65mm t/b, 70mm maf, and some straight through lers(bullets/bassanis/magnaflow).
remember when you add power you put additional load on the trans. the mileage your at with it, might too much for any major mods, i.e. H/C/I. be prepared to have that tranny rebuilt or do a 5 speed swap.
yea i know it might be coming, its 95k its not way up there but its up there. That combo is numebr one to much for a first car/dd, to much money
im just doing small basic bolt ons for freer flow, a little more power, and better sound. just small shiznit to make it more fun to drive, and if the trans breaks i intend to do a 5 speed swap, and if the motor goes, its gonna become a 306
Don't try do do a shift kit youself then as you will surley mess up the valve body/trans.
It's not a fun job doing a shift kit,very messy and everything has to be done perfectly.
I have an aod lockup 22-2400stall,would be perfect for your car,should be out of my car i a few weeks.
How's 100+shipping sound???
Convertor works great,i'm swapping in a lentech with a slightly higher stall that's why i'll be selling it.
Actually if you want i also have a pa transmissions valvebody that i can sell ya for 100.00+shipping as well,firms up the shifts quite nicely(still using this too,will also be out in a few weeks).
Hp will probably be as stated around 15-20 at the crank with the intake and exaust mods.
Go for the 3.73s if you can afford it ,if not then just use your 3.55s,gas mileage won't be much different between the 2 however.
You need the lower gears and higher stall to get the heavy beast movin.
i would buy that stuff but i have to pass, im working on fixing everything before i do those mods i was planing. i got my relative with a shop does trans, and motors, plus hes got a lift im sure he could do my shift kit. 15-20 more is good for me. and the 3.55 will be a little better then the 3.27 in it. so far i have only like 650 in the car so im happy.
the ideas you have sound like a good start, but making more power and keeping it emission friendly is another thing. thta's why i suggested nitrous. you propably wont feel a difference at all going from 3.27 gears to 3.55's. might not even feel it with 3.73's. another reason why i suggested 4.10's. you may lose like 2mpg.
only 2 mpg with 4 10's really? i will never run nitrious its a waste in my eyes unless your drag racing. so ill get it reayd for the road, finish the exausht and intake, then some other stuff for the trans and see how it goes
the reason i can't buy anything uneeded right now, all four rotors, pads, front calipers, and rear shocks $341!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and you're 100% positive you need ALL of those things? or this your buttstuff side showing(you did mention this before)? rotors can be turned and calipers can be rebuilt a lot cheaper than replacing them.
Youll lose a couple mpg highway but probably gain a few around town with the lower gears.
the calipers are 16 bucks shiped so theres nothing expensive about that, maybe ill look into having them turned but i don't know, that would keep the price down some.
The price of having rotors turned will most likely be as expensive(if not more expensive) as buying new rotors. Anymore the price of labor and they will charge at least an hour per rotor($65/hr at the shop i worked at) unless you have a friend/family member with a shop its usually just cheaper to buy new rotors. Unless it is a rare car with really expensive rotors most shops now just replace them cause its not cost effective to turn them.
Its the same way with calipers and wheel cylinders remanufactured parts are so cheap its kind of stupid to waste time rebuilding them.
Maybe my eyes are bad but I don't see any mention of a K&N filter. That'd be the first thing I'd do if you haven't already.
I put mine in and It wouldn't shift and I did everything about as perfect as humanly possible. One of the parts in the kit was machined wrong (brand new, unopened kit) I had to tear it back open and find that problem....THAT SUCKED!
If it were my vehicle, I would not use Flowmasters. There are many lers out there with far better build quality. The flows rust quickly in areas where the roads are salted in wintertime.
im buying the stainless steel flows with flow tubes. i love the sound of them, theres no other ler that has anything that good. filter will come with new inlet tube and TB
Flows dont flow.
flows sound good, and are good enough for now
Meh, too expensive for a 'temporary' ler. Theres plenty other lers that sound as good or better and flow way more.
my moms cobra has borlas and im less then impressed by them they are much to sissy sounding. i would love to put borla stingers on but those are EXPENSIVE, but LOUD!
i HATE magnaflows, they sound to high and resonated to me. i don't like that sound, i like deep, mellow and throaty loudness
the flowmaster h back will be on till i pull the motor for a rebuild which would be a year or more so
dynomax?
never heard them before
Dude, are you serious, when I did rotors on my bird Checker turnd them for like 14 bucks. And as far as Nitrous goes, I used to think it was kind of silly too, then I actually rode in a few cars that were already fast H/C 2002 Camaro, and Cammed 2000 Corvette, and felt how much faster the nitrous makes you... it's insane. If my car didn't have 140k miles on it, I'd be sticking a wet kit on that thing as we speak. I do go to the track to race though, so I guess it'd still kinda be for drag racing, though I'm pretty sure it'd be hard to resist using on the streets if nothing more than to just show my friends how big of a deal N2O really is.
n2o only lasts as long as the bottle is filled, hence a waste to me, unless i wanted to get arrested for doing like 120 on the highway. and plans for mods other then slight bolt ons is gone for now. 100% re doing the suspension, and brakes, trans and rearend before anything. I want it to handle and stop better then it did stock, before i even get to drive it
then what is the point of this thread? :D
it made me change my mind!!!
Wha?
i was planing on motor mods and all that, now im all about doing the suspension and brakes and all that and leave the motor
did you get fuel lines yet? if not, its pointless to think about anything else if you cant drive it.
waiting on aero
Look, let's just get down to brass tax ok? Just trade me your LSC, I'll give you my Turbo Coupe, and everybody will be happy. My car is running, requires no fuel work (Although could use one of those high pressure pumps if you ask me), and already has those 3.73 gears you want so much! Just put in a T-5 and you'll be set!
I can mail you the title via FedEx and you'll have it in a day.
Sound good?