Sorry to do this to ya again with the long post so soon after the last couple, but this is kind of important.
I head for the Chicago area starting the 27th. I'm trying to get the car in order by then.. and we've already dumped several hundred dollars into it in the process. Unfortunately, the "fibro fog" I get from this fibromyalgia is really getting to me as of late, and I'm having a lot of trouble concentrating.. so I'm airing it all out here in hopes that if I forget anything important, one of you can remind me so I minimize my risk of ending up on the side of the road halfway there.
Done so far:
- New Raybestos front rotors
- New ceramic front pads from AutoHole
- New wheel bearings (inner and outer) with a fresh can of Valvoline Dura-Blend grease
(the wheel bearings were the more expensive of the two offered at AutoHole)
- New A/C blower
- 2 new power window motors
- 2 new O2 sensors
- Wiper blades
- (within last few months) New 95A 3G alt, new serp. belt, and a fresh battery
Pending:
- Fresh oil change with Valvoline 10W-30, a Motorcraft or Wix filter, and that Auto-RX (http://"http://www.auto-rx.com") stuff I mentioned before
- Fresh Purolator premium air filter (I liked the one I got for my truck, gonna try another)
- New ABS relay
- Rear rotors and pads
- Complete bleeding of brake system with "synthetic DOT 3" (in quotes because we've had some doubts about the "synthetic" labelling)
- New A/C de-icing switch, or bum the one off the '88 Mark before it goes away
- Topping off of A/C system
- New radiator cap
- Tire check
- SeaFoaming the engine through a vacuum line before the oil change
- Fresh set of standard Autolite plugs after the SeaFoam
- Touch-up polish of the headlights
- Check of all external lights
- Sign up for AAA or Allstate Motor Club :p
Now for the stuff in question:
1) Is it worth the time and expense to find someone reputable to have a professional flush and fill of the transmission before we go? I've already got so much to do between now and then, (and not just on this car) I don't feel comfortable messing around with the transmission.
2) I just did a flush and fill of the cooling system late last year. Installed one of those Prestone T fittings with a long loop of heater hose. Already seeing a bit of scale on the current cap, which I bought at the time of the flush. Should I do it a second time now?
3) Change the gear oil in the diff. for synthetic?
4) The power recline on the passenger seat is acting up. Is there something I should check/clean/whatever to prevent this from going completely? As it is now, you have to hold the back of the seat forward and stab the recline switch a few dozen times back and forward and then it finally goes.
5) Have I missed anything important? I've already gone back and added in three or four things in the process of finishing the post.. so it's clear I had missed a few things prior to this.
Again, sorry for the novel.. but the thought of being stranded REALLY bothers me.. (more like freaks me out) and I haven't taken a car this old on a road trip this long for quite some time. We only have a week and a half to drive up and back.. and not a lot of money to do it with. If you made it this far without skipping ahead, thanks for reading it all.
1) I wouldn't personally flush any transmission. I've had bad luck in the past of losing the transmission shortly after flushing it.
2) A year? Might as well. I'm not sure what is considered the service life of standard coolant.
3) If you want to get adventurous, I really doubt you'll be stranded anywhere because of your rear end oil.
I would add to the prep the day before leaving to Rain-X your windshield, just be sure to rub all the swirls off. Rain-X saved my ass on the way out to Arizona as I encountered some heavy rains.
Hope this helps.
I also doubt the rear end would strand me.. but some have said putting a good synthetic gear oil in it would be a slight improvement. Anything that has a chance of giving slightly better mileage and/or smoother operation over a 2600 mile trip (and that can be done in a week and a half and without too much expense) is under consideration at this point.
Just thought of another thing I forgot to list.. replacing the TV cable bushing and adjusting the TV cable:
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00138.html
Sounds to me like you've got it all nearly thought of...if something leaves you stranded, it will most likely be of a nature that can't be fixed on the side of a road anyway. Remeber a cell phone and a calling card, it's saved my ass more than once..
I keep a prepaid cell phone just for such occasions. Have somewhere around 480 minutes left on it.
Sounds like the contacts are going south on the switch on the seat. Sometimes you can pull those switches apart and clean up the copper on the inside and they work great again.
While like others I wouldn't flush the tranny with a lot of miles on it without being torn open I WOULD drain the pan (without draining the convertor) and change the filter.
As far as the TV adjustment:
I'd go as far as saying you should have the 3-2 kick down at at least 55 MPH after the car is good and hot.
Do you mean the seat switches on the door trim panel? (like in the pic below, from another Mark)
Well, when you said power recline I thought of the type that's on the side of the seat itself. Those, like the switches in the center console you have pictured come apart easily enough. I'm not sure on the one you have pictured. Looks just like the newer Crown Vic ones though.....Maybe that would be a suitable substitute if necessary?
Yeah, that switch came apart alright.. into a dozen pieces or more. I can clean it and put it back together eventually, but it's gonna be fun with my shaky hands.
For now I used the seat switches out of my '88 Mark. The switches worked except the up function on the seat front, but a quick whack with a screwdriver handle fixed that. :p
Sorry to hit ya AGAIN with another long one, but now I'm thinking about mileage.
My worst-case estimate is 3000 mi. round trip at 20 mpg at $3/gal for gas. $450 total. It seems likely gas will be cheaper than that, and I'm hoping I can do as much as possible for the mileage end of things, but that's still a lot of money.. more money than her last paycheck, after we bought the rear rotors this morning.
I've already done one mod that I'm hoping will be a minor improvement.
Bypassed the coolant line to the EGR spacer. Included the link because there's a long discussion as to why, over there. The first guy who tried it (also a Florida resident) seems to have gained about 2 mpg.
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44980#post545570
Second idea also comes from over there, bumping the timing to take advantage of 92+ octane. A different person there tested it and seems to get about 2-3 mpg improvement:
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/showthread.php?p=550833#post550570
Already did both O2 sensors, and I'm planning on fresh oil & filter and a fresh air filter. Will run fresh plugs after a SeaFoam treatment, as stated above. Thinking about running a second can of SeaFoam or Chevron injector cleaner into the tank as well, with about half a tank of 92 to be used up before we leave. Will put the tires up around 40 PSI for the trip. I'll check the TPS and idle again. If the transmission is a little low, I'll top it off with some Lucas. We'll run without A/C whenever possible, and not go above 5 mph over the speed limit unless absolutely necessary. When we're under 45 mph, we'll probably open the windows and turn the A/C off. I'm even thinking of going so far as to strip the trunk carpeting out to save a few pounds, and sticking to packing only a few days' worth of clothing and doing laundry up there. Can any of you think of anything else that might be a slight mileage improvement, without being too insanely complex (and/or expensive) to do in the next week and a half? And no, crash diets are not an option. :p
Oh, almost forgot: I have an almost brand new reverse-rotation flex fan sitting in the '88 T-bird. The clutch fan in the Mark is a little tired, and the temperature starts to creep when the car is idling for some time. (like in a traffic jam) Would I be better off switching to the flex fan for the trip, or staying with the clutch fan? To be honest, I really don't like the flex fan.. seems to sap too much power at low revs.. and highway RPMs in this car aren't all that high, which would seem to negate the purpose of the flex fan.. yea or nay? (leaning towards "nay" at present) I've heard that a heavy duty F-150 clutch can be put in and helps cool better at low revs, but that's kind of expensive for a last-minute swap here. ($60-something, if I recall)
Well even though Ben can't see this because I'm more than likely on his block list I'll mention it anyway.
1. I've always noticed a difference with as little as a 3lb increase in tire pressure.. maybe even 5lb or 6lb depending on your current tire wear.
2. I've personally seen a gain with bumping timing and using higher octane gas.
3. And realistically Ben would pay 25% or so less for gas than he estimated, especialy getting out of Florida and there steep gas prices. Here in Ohio Gas has dropped below $2.00 a gallon.
Well Hope Ben enjoys this blank message cause thats all he can see.
If you are that worried, try Hertz.
Can't afford a rental car plus gas, not after having spent several hundred dollars on fixing the car already.
The mileage of similarly-sized new cars doesn't seem to be any better than this car.
Well, if we're down to the smartass/snippy/whatever answers, it would seem I have everything covered. Thanks to everyone for the help.
Bird, Claude threw this out there.....seems you ARE ignoring him:p
Anyhow, I'm curious about this F-150 clutch that was mentioned....where did you hear that?
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45346
If you're after fuel mileage...ditch the flex-fan. Those things suck up power.
If you buy a fan clutch...only buy Motorcraft. Hayden/Imperial clutches generally give up the ghost long before an OEM clutch will.
If you're really into upping your mpg, slap on a Taurus fan and use a relay with a switch. A fan will run you about $50, a relay will be another $20, a switch for $5 and then some wires. It'll cost a little more than a Motorcraft fan clutch.
If I do a Taurus electric fan, I'll do it after the trip when I can save up for the fan plus a DCC controller. Didn't get as much for an Ebay auction as I was hoping, so I have to keep the expenses to a minimum.
Update time:
Pulled codes tonight, and got a 33.. EGR not opening on the continuous/memory codes. S nuff, the diaphragm went. No more wondering why, after a SPOUT-pulled timing reset, my car still knocked around half to 3/4 throttle with 87 or 89 octane, I guess. (EGR shuts off only on full throttle, right?)
Swapped out the de-icing switch on the A/C. One more small victory, I'll take all I can get.
Put all the tires up to around 39 PSI from the 30 they were down to when I checked. I know some say to go right to the max listed on the tire, but I'm still having trouble getting by the old 32 PSI standard.. baby steps to 4 o'clock. :p Anyway, ride is noticeably stiffer now.. so I hope that's a good sign.
Got my rear rotors today.. gonna try my hand at 'em tomorrow, along with a spark plug change, complete brake system bleed, and checking the ABS sensors for accumulated debris. Hopefully that clears up the yellow ABS light, because for the life of me I can't find the ABS test connector. Supposedly in the trunk on later Marks.. no idea if it is on earlier Marks. Anyone have any tips on using that stupid little cube for the pistons without giving myself a migraine? :p
Have an ABS relay on order. Hope it gets here in time for the trip, because I've already had one relay go.. the relay from the parts car is what's in it now, and I've had that stick open once and drain the battery completely.
Preparing for the trip is still driving me insane, (short drive) but tonight's small victories (cleared up an issue with the door trim panels as well as the above) helped a great deal. 7 days and counting.
Oh man, I just had that right rear wheel off for the first time, and this is the worst brake damage I've ever seen without actually throwing the pad(s). The pad is so far gone, the wear tab mounting is now part of the pad surface. The rotor is so torn up that it looks like it is close to wearing through to the cooling fins in the middle.
Well at least they had their priorities straight and gave that corner a liberal covering of anti-seize on the wheel studs.. :rolleyes: