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11
Other Vehicles / Re: Oops, I did it again. I bought a new car. (1986 Ford LTD wagon)
Last post by Mikey97D -
Good luck with the surgery!
I damaged the joint in my big toe once that caused it to mostly fuse.  I had surgery on it in 2016 to reform the joint.  Recovery took a bit of time (months).  Hoping you have a quicker recovery!

I bet adding the insulation also helped with lighting due to the reflecting aspect of it?
12
Other Vehicles / Re: Oops, I did it again. I bought a new car. (1986 Ford LTD wagon)
Last post by Chuck W -
The surgery is just arthroscopic, not a replacement. Managed to damage the socket lining due to some other issues. Pain of some sort most days. Was really bad when I was cycling, but some PT and readjustment on the bike has shifted that to discomfort instead of pain. I'm very active, and having my riding and running cut down by over 1/2 has done a number on my mental state. :tard:

The wiring isn't that terrible. Every connector is ID'd and recorded. Still gonna be fun, and I'm not final wrapping things until I get the car to fire up.
13
Other Vehicles / Re: Oops, I did it again. I bought a new car. (1986 Ford LTD wagon)
Last post by gtbird -
Good luck with the hip surgery. One of my snowbird buddies here in Florida had one hip replaced in September and went back to Knoxville in January to get the second one done as he couldn’t stand the pain. He originally thought he could wait until the spring when he would be back home for the summer but that didn’t happen. Anyway he was back here in two weeks after surgery and he’s back playing golf.
Anyway, I don’t know how you help track of all those wires and what goes where, hats off to you!
I had a similar situation in my garage years ago with wide open roof trusses where all my heat went up into the eaves. After I insulted the ceiling with 3 1/2” of fiberglass, it was much easier to retain heat.

Rick
14
Other Vehicles / Re: Oops, I did it again. I bought a new car. (1986 Ford LTD wagon)
Last post by Chuck W -
OK, well winter set in and I didn't have much time to fiddle with things that were out of the garage.

Speaking of the garage. Part of my holiday was spent getting 2" insulation up on the roof rafters to help maintain the heat a bit.


It was open rafters and while I have a heater in there, it doesn't do well at keeping things warm when it gets super cold, and it ran all of the time, which kills my electric bill.  Finished it up between X-mas and NY. While the concrete floor was cold-soaked for a bit, almost immediately I could tell it was working. For sure the heater didn't run as much as it did. Confirmation came in the most recent bill for that time period. Compared to last year, it was quite a bit colder on average, but the usage was down by 25% over the same time period. I call that a win.

Now to the car stuff.
Wiring, wiring, wiring.
Spent most of the frozen time working on harnesses, etc.





I had originally planned to mount the fusebox over on the PS of the engine bay, but it was going to really be crowded with the battery, etc, so I opted to move it to the DS.


There it's crowding out the airbox I was thinking about using, but I'll be able to figure something out.

I did design up a bracket to mount the fusebox and 3D printed it.
The red bracket in the picture is just the mock-up, but I printed the "real" one out of carbon-filled nylon.


At this point, I need to get stuff laid out in the engine bay to finalize some wiring lengths and prepare the bulkhead connector for the 20-ish new wires that need to enter the cabin.
Inside, I need to yank out the carpet. One, it's nasty and will be replaced. Two, I need to have access to run wires to the back for the FP and other emissions stuff that's at the rear of the car. OBD2 diagnostic port and throttle pedal need to be wired as well.

I needed to shift the car around on it's stands a bit to be able to open the tailgate, but I needed to get the trans mount installed, so that was properly supported. The task to day was to get the Stiffler's mount in place.


It wasn't a drop-in, as I needed to slot or elongate the slots in each of the frame brackets. Designed for a Fox, yes, but not the LTD/TBird floorpan. This mounting is temporary, as eventually I'm doing SFCs, etc. under the car, and will tie this mounting into that. I need to get the suspension on the front of the car and be able to properly load things up to design and install such things. Seeing as the LTS will need something similar, I'll make a couple sets.

Need to get the fuel system together, and I have a Deatshwerks DW200 pump on the way. Similar to the Walbro 255hp.

That's where we are at the moment.
I'm on a time crunch to get some things done before the end of April. Have a hip surgery coming up and that will take me out of doing the heavy and contortive work for a few weeks. Not going to be able to climb around on the ground for a bit.


15
User Rides / Re: My 85 TBird
Last post by bodyman -
I'm so glad  it's getting somewhere. I don't come on the board that much anymore, but when I do I always check to see if you've updated anything.

Looks awesome man!
Thanks!

No real progress since the last update. I am no longer in the auto collision business. I grew very tired of dealing with insurance companies on a daily basis and 4 years ago the opportunity to rent my dads and an uncles farm came up.  It’s that time of year to get my 20 to 40 year old equipment ready to go so the bird will have to wait some more. Hopefully I can keep at it here and there and get it on the road this summer sometime.
16
User Rides / Re: My 85 TBird
Last post by Clayton -
I'm so glad  it's getting somewhere. I don't come on the board that much anymore, but when I do I always check to see if you've updated anything.

Looks awesome man!
17
Electrical Tech / Re: 22k ohm resistor Ignition wiring dark green / yellow wire from the ign coil
Last post by jcassity -
yes they are,,
all these tfi wires travel from the coil, travel along the upper intake, go left along the engine bay firewall and penetrate the pass side firewall to the eec.

im confused because of your earlier take on post 6 that the open resistor is likely "not" the problem... sorry i just dont understand what your getting at.  i get what your saying and agree with your thoughts on the cross talk part.
19
Electrical Tech / Re: 22k ohm resistor Ignition wiring dark green / yellow wire from the ign coil
Last post by jcassity -
so lets settle this... from a forensic perspective............

the 22kR blew open.  (lets call this resistor a srike absorber or MOV of sorts).
The primary of the coil has sent 18kva there abouts onto each plug.
the tfi manages to switch the coil ground to open,, and the magnetic field in the coil secondary now reverses back onto the primary.
due to proximity, the harness containing this DG/Y branch headed to eec pin4, the other tfi related wires picked up the HV due to inductive coupling / antenna sorts of an effect.
the 22kR being a high ohm value its going to perform by taking on the majority of the voltage drop of this flyback voltage.
see pg43 87evtm splice 320 (unprotected), the remaing DG/Y wires would be a much lower voltage level safe for TFI use if the resistor is proper and working, the opposite if the resistor is open.
this hv would obviously effect the tfi's ability to operate and sense pip signals and overheat or burn up.


i bring this up to discussion because although the IDM DG/y wire going to pin 4 according to TMOS has said its only a monitoring lead and the 22kR is there to protect the eec,,, if the 22k goes bad,, what we are trying to say is that if its open,, then there **IS** a possibility of the TFI being burnt up??
Second, there are a lot of people out there having aftermarket relacement parts issues with Dizzy's,, and maybe due to age we should start checking the resistance of this branch circuit to eliminate a probable fault.  my son was going through dizzy'z and troubleshot it across two years then finally stumbled on intermittant issues at the TFI connector so an LMR kit fixed that.

not sure anyone else has covered this aspect before on any ford forum
20
Electrical Tech / Re: 22k ohm resistor Ignition wiring dark green / yellow wire from the ign coil
Last post by softtouch -
y.  there is no reference as to its location as well.   the fella that i was helping told me he found his just a couple feet up the coil harness headed towards the firewall.  His was 100% open.
And there you have it!!! CROSSTALK
The IDM wire and the other TFI wires are bundled together for a couple of feet in the harness before you get to the resistor.
The broke resistor is no longer doing its ignition suppression job.
The high voltage flyback voltage spike is being picked up by the other wires in the harness by what is called crosstalk.
This would explain the erratic PIP pulse error code.