So, anyone who has driven one of these cars with a full digital gauge cluster is aware that the normal operation of the temperature gauge shows 4 bars illuminated when at operating temperature.
My 87, which is heavily modified, had an inoperative gauge for years. Fast forward to me properly wiring it up and getting the correct sender for it. The gauge itself in this particular car will not show above 3 bars and it takes FOREVER to even read that. I have not hooked up any mechanical gauge to the vehicle yet but suffice to say, it definitely gets hot when you get on her. Big 3 core radiator, 180 degree thermostat and a high volume water pump are in the car and have been for a while but the gauge was inoperative before all that went in.
Anyway, my question is this.
What temperatures or temperature ranges do each bar on the digital temperature gauge represent provided the gauge, wiring, and sender are all working properly? I can't find anything in the shop manuals for it. My gauges all self test good as per the tests in the shop manual.
I've had an issue with the oil chime going off at approximately 20psi for YEARS (it persisted even after a full gauge cluster swap and a few different sending units) and wonder if I have an issue with the ribbon behind the cluster itself that may cause both of these gauges to read incorrectly.
Obviously I have to hook up some mechanical gauge to verify an actual temperature at this point but would LOVE know the temperature ranges for the actual digital gauge.
Anything that gets the seal of approval from Project Farm is a good product as far as I'm concerned. While some of his tests aren't quite something that could be produced by a lab, they're much more than the average person would do for testing and he's genuinely unbiased.
Ok. Considering that I now own THREE cars with a TFI style EFI Ford 5.0 ignition system I figure it's time to have some spare GOOD parts on hand; specifically a distributor or two.
I have 2 old/worn distributors with known bad PIP sensors. One from one of my cars, the other I grabbed for dirt cheap to swap the PIP on to use as a spare.
Anyway I figure if I'm going through the hassle of pulling the gear and shift to get to the PIP, I may as well swap out the shaft bushings as well while I'm at it. Worn shaft bushings can and WILL affect the idle quality and just off idle power due to the introduction of lateral and rotational shaft play even with known good electronics installed on the distributor and the rest of the ignition system. Been there done that.
My question is where the hell can I source the proper bushing? The earlier. 467" diameter ones are plentiful.
The ones for EFI cars it's a . 531" diameter shaft? I'm coming up with bupkis. Strange considering that you can obtain cheap knockoff aftermarket distributors brand new so with that in mind, one SHOULD be able to source the proper bushings as well.
So, anyone ever rebuild one or know a source for the bushings?
Hopefully you can see the pics I attached above this sentence. I'm trying to send links from my Flickr account via my phone.
Flickr is NOT mobile friendly at all.
Your issue is almost assuredly the switch. The little metal tab that connects to the switch housing and rubs on the rheostat dimmer wheel has a tendency to snap off on these switches. The pics are a troubleshooting page and 2 pages of pinouts and tests for the switch to include testing for your exact issue.
Lemme know if you can or cannot see them. I'll get on the laptop and work magic from there if I have to in order to make the pictures visible. Yeahhhhh, edited for viewing through my Laptop. Could not get it to work on my phone. Not the forum's fault at all. All blame is on Flickr.
If your switch IS in fact no good find an NOS one on Ebay. The aftermarket parts store ones are WAY overpriced. You can usually find NOS Ebay ones for around $30 USD. I think AutoZone wanted over $100 for a Duralast brand one the last time I checked....
There's a channel where the window sits that can hold water. If there's a pinhole anywhere it could leak in. The window itself most likely is not leaking.....
Are the insides of the glass getting condensation following rain storms? If not then don't worry about the glass. Pill the seal off and look for anything out of the ordinary in the channel it rests in.
