Hello, I have a new set of Chuck W shock mounts for sale. The car ended up leaving before I got a chance to put them on. I see someone else just posted a set recently, so I will list for same. $50 shipped in the US. Thanks
Well guys and gals, I was set on doing my 351C swap, but decided a 351W (eventually Turbo) would be a better route to go. I just got the motor that came out of 89-90 "Police Interceptor type". The nice thing is I read I should be able to use the oil pan that came with it. It also came with an AOD that I plan on using. I have a 4r70w I got from a 2000 V6 Mustang that I planned on using, but figured I would use the complete package due to cheaper cost. Maybe one day I will put the 4r70w in when I want to buy that $600 controller. The engine came out of a running car, so plan on doing just the basics for now to get it moving (oil pump, timing chain, cam + lifters, GT40 heads). Figured I would use GT40s since I would have the stock E7's rebuilt anyways as well so cost will be the same (thank you Pull-A-Part). I know I have to get the valve springs to match with the 268h cam. So the "Police" car came with a mechanical fuel pump I am pretty sure (havent been able to work on engine yet). What would be recommended since I am going carb? Should I stay with the tank pump and run a Mallory 29387 regulator? Or should I run the mechanical? Are the fuel lines 5/16's? I cannot say if at some point I may move back to EFI when the turbo happens, but for now I want to keep it simple. I had a bad run in with EFI on a 5.0 swap recently (yes all wiring was good and codes always showed all was well). Also can someone tell me how much hood clearance we have when going to a 351W? Mine is an '88 Turbo Coupe and will be using a Mustang tubular subframe (AJE), Weiand Stealth intake and Street Demon 625. I saw that a company sells a 2" cowl for our cars, but not sure that would be enough or is it really needed? I probably wouldn't use the Mustang Tubular, but since ChuckW started being mean and no longer making his engine mounts I guess I have to (I at least got a set of his rear shock mounts). :) Thanks!
Well kind of scratch that. I just found out you can use 1993 Taurus outers on the metric threads of the newer racks and it will give you the same Fox total length. I went ahead and ordered those and with fingers crossed will hope it fits. :)
Thanks 85Turbo. I had to take a look at those ball joints. They do look like they would be a good option. The bad thing is I already ordered the Moog SN95's and they will be put on this weekend to the stock Fox LCAs.
Hey Aerocoupe, I was going back through what you said to me on the first page on the steering rack. Now you mentioned since I am using stock Fox LCA's that I can use the Fox inner and outer tie rods with my 2003 rack. Though since I am using the same 2003 spindles, will I still be able to use the Fox inner and outers? Or is that going to push the track width out too much and leave not enough thread? I am having SN95 ball joints pressed on the factory Fox LCAs. Just want to make sure I order the right tie rods. Also I plan on using my factory turbo springs and got a free set of used Fox struts that I plan to test with. I also ordered some offset steering rack bushings in thinking it will help with my AJE K Member. Hope to have it all installed next weekend as I finally got all the stock stuff pulled last weekend. Thanks!
Well won’t believe this. Wen’t to a guy’s Fox yard to get the LCAs for $25. He didn’t want to fool with taking them off the k member, so he said he would just give it to me. He also had some 5 lug steelies with new tires on them and I got those too......all for the grand total of $85. I just needed the wheels to be able to roll the car around once I do the swap. So I really scored today. The only bad is now I am thinking I can use that stock V8 K member as it is in excellent shape and just sell the tubular. That would save me some money and assuming the 351C should fit in there as well. Though I would be losing access space for the headers/starter. At least got the 2.3 with transmission out a few hours ago. What a pain that was to pull the 4 cylinder.
Oh and actually John my initial idea was to run 15 inch wheels as I wanted a somewhat NASCAR copy with stock car black wheels. I even wanted to go the whole Toploader and pedal swap out, but I have no clue where the shifter would end up. For convenience, I will go AOD. Now I didn’t know about the 17’s not filling the wheel wells that good. I may need to check what the 18’s have to offer. I did like the idea of 10.5 wide wheel in the back. :)
Well it would figure I would find out everyone dislikes the Poly after I ordered them. I checked older posts and people seemed excited about them. I guess they finally had to live with them. Lol I will see about sending them back and going the Moog route. :)
Thanks for the heads up John. I sent Ed a PM to see if I can’t get them from him. Sounds like they will come in handy. I had No idea the rear would cause an issue like that. I think I saw some were using convertible Mustang rear springs?
Well the lead I had on a great 460 deal is gone. I was second in line and of course the first person bought it. Would have been stupid for them not to. It was a totally rebuilt (by an engine shop) 460 with Proform heads, Lunati cam, Edelbrock intake and water pump, etc....he only wanted $1400. Yes....$1400! Hate I just barely missed it. When I saw the ad it had been posted for only 20 hours. Story of my life. Lol I guess it’s a sign to stay with the 351 :)
Totally agree Aero. I will at least change the rubber parts out. The rear calipers looked good. When I get the 2001 Parts I will find out about that. The junkyard guy told me the V6 had a single piston and the GT had the dual piston brakes. So I made sure to get them from a GT. The Mach 1 rack came in and it looks to be in excellent shape. Surprised they left the inner and outer tie rods on. I may see about just cutting those down to size. Getting stock Fox control arms for $25 and will be putting in the SN95 ball joints with Prothane bushings. Hopefully this will all work together. One other thing though, planning to my stock TC coil springs....wonder which strut will be best? Sn95 maybe?
Good News! On my lunch I was able to run up to the Pull A Part and pull the axles, backing plates, brackets, calipers and the special u-bolt bracket setup on one of the 98 V6 Mustangs. With coupon I got everything for $109 :D Now the only bad is the brake lines were gimped up and the banjo bolts were stuck. I didn't have enough time to fight with them so I am hoping I can buy new. Also got a junkyard pulling from a 2001 Mustang GT the spindles and calipers for $100. Figure I will try the 2001 setup first and hope for the best. :)
Ironically I just went out and saw this posted on another website. Hopefully the 2012 k member is the same as the new one. It should be since it as well is “universal”:
“Ok, I just got off the phone with AJE, and since their k-member is a universal one, the rack location has already been dropped to allow use of 96+ spindles. So anyone else out there that is running an AJE that was wondering the same thing, here ya go!”
Decision must be made between using the 1994-95 spindle or the 1996-04 spindle. The best choice depends on whether a stock K-member or a Maximum Motorsports K-member is used.
Do not install a 1996-04 spindle on a 1979-93 Mustang fitted with a stock-geometry k-member! Doing so will significantly increase bumpsteer because...
The steering arm on the 1996-04 spindle is about 1.02" (26mm) lower (relative to the rest of the spindle) than the steering arm of any 1979-95 spindle.
The lower steering arm forces the outer tie-rod end to a lower position.
That new position is far too low for the steering rack location of any 1979-93 Mustang, and radically changes the steering geometry.
It is impossible to correct the geometry with a bumpsteer kit because the outer tie-rod end needs to be raised so much that it would have to occupy the same physical space as the steering arm.
Stock Fox chassis k-member, or an aftermarket k-member that retains the stock front control arm pivot point vertical location, should use a 1994-95 spindle. Doing so will prevent insurmountable bumpsteer problems.
That’s where the confusion is. Lol AJE said you can use the stock Fox Parts, but they just changed it a little to help with heavy braking and nose dive how they did the mounting. Though you go on MM’s site and they say if you are using a stock or stock positioned suspension k member then do not use the 96+ arms. :) It’s all a toss up. May end up just getting both and seeing which fits better. From the prices on the 94-95 spindles I saw on EBay, should be able to get my money back out of them if I have to sell.
