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Messages - dw85745
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T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Need Parts? 84 Cougar going to crusher
Are ALL the screws accessible from on top???
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T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Need Parts? 84 Cougar going to crusher
The dash is beige and NOT cracked. There is small dark spot on the dash (as I recall without looking about 1/2 inch wide by 3 inch long) close to the window that appears to be sun discoloration.
As originally posted with my offer, I'm willing to give away parts (not in the junk business or trying to make a buck) provided they are easy to remove. Dash removal is NOT easy and I'm
sure shipping (other than by freight) would be a bunch.
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T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Need Parts? 84 Cougar going to crusher
Believe I replied to your PM (not sure) as find the PM system confusing as to which message I'm replying to.
To repeat just in case:
Yes: Those are the original wire wheels.
Mine have a specially keyed locking bolt that goes through the center (to stop theft)
and a black cover plate with a cougar logo (head) that snaps into the center area
to hide the locking bolt.
MY83T:
Just driver (not pass) seat is power
Have power doors, windows, and lighted mirrors
FWIW car is white with a beige interior.
I'm original owner so IMHO, things are in good shape. No Kids "ever" in vehicle and back seat only had passengers two or three times as I recall.
Did the window motors with new gears couple years back (about $20 per gear from NAPA as I recall). Never touched power mirrors and work fine.
Center dash and mirror / window controls are black in color.
Your welcome to them, but as stated if a lot of effort involved you'll have to pull yourself since this is gratis.
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T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Need Parts? 84 Cougar going to crusher
For some reason the system deleted your PM when I was deleting others. Below is a description of items of interest.
Don't have time to do pictures and such. If of interest, send me another PM and we will make arrangements..
As stated the wirewheel hubcaps and plastic inserts are yours "free" if you pay postage (however you want them sent) and the cost of packaging.
I'm not making a dime, just trying to help others.
Re:
1) the black plastic wire wheel hub cap cover plate with the cougar on it. I know I have 4 and maybe 5 or 6. One of the 4 does have three or 4 holes through it (did it years ago) to secure the metal
to the back of the plastic. Others are in good shape, but "may" have a chip or two out of them on the inside outer edge (not visible) after almost 30 years usage.
2) Re the wire wheel covers. Three are visually like new, the other has a small se on it. However, I do remember repairing several of the inside attaching wire bracket supports with
KB Weld as they are pot metal and broke where the wire went though the inside bracket support. The repair has held up well as wheel covers have been on and off several times since repair.
As of the writing, remember it took quite a lot of effort to repair them as the wire must slide (float) underneath the bracket to allow it to engage the inside of the rim.
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T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Need Parts? 84 Cougar going to crusher
Before I do, if anyone needs any parts (depending on the amount of effort required on my part to get the part off), I will be glad to give any part away provided the person who wants the parts pays for shipping and boxing.
Some items that may be of interest are:
1) Rear taillights.
2) Original wire hub caps and cover plates
3) New tires (75000 mile Goodyear Touring P205 75R14) but only with a tire / rim swap so I can have the vehicle hauled away.
4) Lot new parts incluing oxygen sensor (have about 20 miles on them).
5) A new unused throttle body rebuild kit by Standard.
6) Practically new distributor cap (about 10 miles) and fairly new plug wires.
6) Front grill and headlight cover also in good shape but NOT sure on effort required to remove these. Will have to look at Shop first.
7) The cruise control linkage connector. Supposedly I go the last one on both coasts when the engine was rebuilt.
If you live near Tucson, your welcome to come by and get a part, but as I said, in two weeks the Cougar is gone.
If someone wants the whole vehicle the crusher is offering me $500-$600 for the metal, so will sell it as/is for $500.
David
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Engine Tech / Finally No Start
1) Swapped TFI and till No-Start.
2) Decided to rebuild Throttle body and have injectors tested.
Have TB cleaned and injectors out, but still need to have them tested.
Injector screens look clean.
3) Just noticed a couple of wires where insulation has come off near connector.
So this needs some liquid tape.
4) Haven't got around to pumping some gas yet to check for water in tank.
As noted -- believe this thread -- replaced fuel filter with low mileage on it (around 2000)
to see if any trash or rust. Nothing wrong with filter.
5) Just noticed tranny front pump seal is leaking a bit.
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Kinda reaching a point - my age that is -- of all the little fixes.
Hate to do it, as love this car, but looking into getting rid of the Cougar.
Thought I'd never say that.
Since original owner have a detailed parts history.
Can get $400 - $500 from the metal guy here, but would like to see bird go to a good home, even if just for parts.
Anyone near Tucson, and need a bird with a lot of new parts let me know via this thread and we'll see what we can work out.
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Engine Tech / Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1
Thanks for the Ebay link to the tank.
Pulled injectors -- haven't pulled screens yet -- but look clean from what I can see installed.
Taking injectors to shop tomorrow to have tested and cleaned.
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Engine Tech / Shuddering engine...UPDATE July,1
Just pulled Throttle Body, but haven't looked at injector screens yet.
Will post result once I examine them..
Debating right now whether I want to break tabs off injectors as plastic connector hard, old and brittle (see post this forum). Immersed connector in go-jo hoping to soften the plastic
so needs to sit for a few days.
Any better idea to soften plastic?
Talked to a "carb rebuilder - fuel specialist" and they indicated that Chysler used plastic tanks but Ford didn't.
Assuming you got a metal tank, I'm looking for a plastic one if I can find it.
Where did you get your tank?
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Engine Tech / Plastic Tabs Holding Injector Harness on Throttle Body
The injector harness tabs used to lock the harness to the injectors is old and
IMO plastic is brittle.
Question:
Anyone know if I remove the tabs whether the harness will stay attached to the injectors
while vehicle operating. (Don't want these tabs breaking loose and being sucked into the engine).
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Engine Tech / Finally No Start
will do, but will have to be this weekend. AFAIK, if you get spark at the plugs, this eliminates the TFI and PIP.
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Engine Tech / Finally No Start
Re:
Quote
Volukm and pressure are different, and don't match each other.
Think about 120 psi in a squirt gun, then 120 psi in a garden hose. One move much more liquid.
Where you have 39 psi at idel, i. Don't think the pressure is the problem. It doesn't take 9oz of fuel to run a car for 10 seconds.
Hose and Squirt gun good buttstuffogy.
That's why -- IMO -- shop has two separate tests.
On the volume side they must "think" 9.5 oz on the return side is of importance or why call it out as a spec {see shop p24-35-5} ?
Quote
Going back to the starting fluid,
Interesting. In my case I let car sit overnight with both the fuel injector harness disconnected as well as the fuel pump relay - so - the only gas was the starting fluid.
You can tell it wants to start -- just doesn't.
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Before messing with the CFI, I think I'm going to pull all plugs again. Then attach them to the plug wires and crank to see if I'm getting spark at all cylinders.
I also may try and redo compression test and make sure dissy is ot TDC.
That - IMO - should eliminate any questions on spark and compression.
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Engine Tech / Finally No Start
Quote
If the fuel pump was only capable of 39psi of pressure, the regulator valve would never open and there would be no return fuel flow.
Makes logical sense.
Quote
If the pump is capable of more than 39psi, it forces the regulator valve open and some fuel returns to the tank.
Again logical - but - How this pressure correlates to the volume that is pushed through the regulator is the question (at least for me)?
Per the shop the return line is supposed to put out a volume of 9.5 oz at 39 psi.
So if it is less (volume that is), does that mean there is something wrong???
-- or --
Is the pump pushing just air (> 39 psi) and no gas?
There is probably some math formula (my guess in area of fluid dynamics) but will have to search net.
Quote
How wide does the regulator valve open? It depends on how much more than 39psi the pump is capable of.
This I'm not sure of, My guess is that with any pressure > 39psi, the diaphram and spring in the regulator that controls (limits) the pressure
to 39 psi, would reach its design point (here 39 psi) and any additional pressure (and volume) would be routed through the return line orfice of the regulator
instead of through the orfice to the injectors.
///////////// FollowUP //////////////////
Worth a read:
http://www.kennebell.net/KBWebsite/Common/pdfs/BAPtheory_kens.pdf
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Engine Tech / Finally No Start
Quote
is this a double fuel pump car
Yep: But based on previous thread both pressure and volume on supply side look OK,
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