Alright I finally got the head off, turns out the dowel was stuck in the block and between that and the exhaust manifold in the way we weren't able to pull it up and over the dowel. I went ahead and unbolted the exhaust manifold on the other head and it dropped down about half an inch on both sides and left us enough clearance to take the head off the dowel.
One side of the cylinder head i can lift freely, the other side, can swivel around, it seems to be swiveling about where the other dowel would be, but it's stuck on the block and won't pull away, which is making me second guess myself about removing all the bolts.
I should have specified, Yes I am working on a 5.0, I have removed 2 bolts in the back of the head by the firewall. one of those bolts held a bracket welded to a metal pipe (which I am assuming is the smog crossover tube), the other bolt was a grounding wire.
I've been working at this for an hour now. My passenger side cylinder head is stuck on the block. I can swivel the head back and forth, but the side closest to the firewall is stuck on something. I think it may be a dowel pin or something, but it's stuck on there so good (it feels really solid). I removed the 10 main bolts, the 3 that connect to the alternator, and 2 more on the back closest to the firewall. Is there a 3rd bolt that I'm missing on the back of the head? I am completely stumped.
Thanks for the info Fox, and yes I probably will end up getting an ho cam at some point, but in order to do that wouldn't I also need to change the timing, get a new ecu, injectors, fuel pump etc?
I'm looking to swap my e6 heads for a pair of gt40 heads as well as a gt40 style intake and 65 mm throttle body. Do you think there will be any piston to valve clearance issues with the stock SO camshaft and the heads?
Also, later on I will probably do the full HO conversion, but for now do you think this setup will work?
I'm looking to do the mid-output conversion on my 1988 t-bird, and want to use gt40 heads instead of the e7's. Does anyone have a pair of ready to go gt40s they would be willing to sell?
If you follow this link: http://www.classiquecars.com/thunderbirdelectrical80s.htm and scroll down they have a section for fuel sending units although I found the one that I think I would need, I definitely don't want to spend $225 for it.
Yes drewstang I am still looking for the full digital cluster at the moment, although I guess I also need to look for the fuel sender that goes with the full digital cluster, and also the tachometer sender too
Hmm I put my car in neutral and then calibrated it and reverse, neutral, overdrive, drive all show correctly but when put in park, the p isn't orange, because the indicator is halfway between park and reverse.
