Thanks for the info - I also found a youtube video that made it seem more manageable. On the youtube video, they also bored out a coolant hose line towards the back of the lower intake manifold, which connects to the throttle body. Did you also bore this hole out, or is it not necessary?
Also, overall, how would everyone rate the power/torque gain that you get with the explorer intake? I have a mild built motor (bored .040, F303 cam). I've read that with some of the aftermarket intakes you get a loss of low-end torque, and I'd rather not do the swap if that is the same with the explorer intake.
Thanks, Jeremy. I found the evaporator on Rockauto, but it's not included in the LMR kit. I can't see this in the engine compartment - I'm assuming it's behind the firewall, on the other side of the acspoogeulator? If so, I'm guessing it's not easily accessible, which is probably why you're recommending to "blow it out" vs. replace it?
Let me preface this - I know nothing about A/C! Also, I apologize if there's already a post about this, but I can't figure out how to use the search function on this site for the life of me.
My 87 V8 Cougar's AC doesn't work - started out as a slow leak and then turned into an issue where it wouldn't keep a charge more than a few months. It got to be a pain, and I just haven't had A/C for a few years now. I would like to get it back up and running, and I'm planning on doing a total system replacement so I don't have to worry about it again in awhile. I've run into a couple questions I was hoping someone could help me with;
I've found that you can fairly inexpensively replace all the parts of our cars' A/C with Rock Auto parts, which is where I'm currently leaning. However, I've been told that our cars are "R12", which is now hard to get with the newer systems using R134A. If I use these parts, is my system still an R12 system? Is there a way to convert the system?
I found that LMR.com has a total replacement system designed for a mustang V8 that also claims to convert it to the R134A coolant. However, I've noticed that this system's coolant return line from the compressor to the condenser runs over the engine, past the distributor cap - while mine runs to the right of the engine and then down under it. The compressor also seems to be at a different angle on the mustangs. Has anyone tried to use one of these systems in our cars, and is it worth it?
Thanks - hope I don't sound like too much of a noob!
I haven't checked this thread in awhile, and a few months ago someone asked how this swap is going a few months in. I honestly haven't driven the car as much as I would like, but it seems to be holding up nicely. I'm still happy with the handling and still don't have any tire rub issues. The only thing that I wish would have gone better is the camber adjustments, as I mentioned earlier that I couldn't get it quite back to stock specs - that said, it's workable and so far hasn't made my tires wear badly or caused any significant handling issues.
I was just talking to my alignment guy about the sag issue, as my car has it, as well. He suggested simply putting a spring spacer in one of the rear springs to even things out. This seems like it would be an easy an effective fix, and avoid lots of labor and other expense. Has anyone tried this with success, or have any reasons why this wouldn't be a bad idea?
P.S. - I believe there are some posts around here about the fact that SN95 control arms may also work on our cars. I believe the advantage to the SN95 control arms are that they give extra clearance for larger brakes, and they have a better ball joint design. I didn't discover this until I had already done the 11" brake conversion from the stock 10" front brakes - otherwise I may have gone that route.
Looks good.. Did you swap in 87-93 GT control arms? In having similar issues after my swap, so I may try this as well. Have you noticed any issues yet? Great looking car by the way.... Ray.
Thanks, guys! Yes, Ray, the control arms were off a '90 Mustang GT - I believe any of the V8 Mustang control arms will fit from those years and get the same result. I purchased used control arms and replaced the bushings and ball joints - if I had it to do over again, I would have purchased new control arms that already have these installed, as the bushings and ball joints were a MAJOR PAIN to install into the control arms. I have noticed NO issues thus far. I was worried that there would be issues with turning radius/tire rub on the inner fender, but I haven't experienced either! The only thing that you could possibly consider an issue, would be that the alignment guy wasn't able to get the caster/camber exactly back to stock specs, even with the caster/camber plates. (The wheels are more straight up/down than the stock camber.) That said, it's pretty close, and the car drives straight and feels like it handles better than ever (it helps that I just got new springs and struts). My wife also drove it to work the other day with no complaints.
Just wanted to post an update on the control arm swap project. It's all done now, and it's one of the few projects that came out just as I had imagined! It brought the front wheels and tires into the fenders nicely, and completely eliminated the fender rub I was experiencing over bumps and heavy braking. As everyone else was saying, this project can't be done without the Caster/Camber plates - thank goodness Maximum Motorsports makes them for our cars! Along with the new SN95 struts and springs, the car handles much better now, as well. Highly recommended!
Found this on Craigslist today, thought all of you should know, as if anyone would want this car it should be one of us! A little rich for me, but for the sake of our cars I hope it fetches the asking price.
Holy smokes, my head hurts after Aerocoupe's geometry lesson! ...although I have to admit that science is probably better than my method of buying parts and hoping it fits. I went out and checked, and as I can pretty easily fit my hand between the tire and strut, I would say I have at least an inch gap. If your measurements are correct, that means I should be golden! I didn't even think about the strut being an issue, as the strut, spindle and control arm are all off of a mustang, I guess I just figured a mustang rim would fit with all that - although the one thing I didn't consider is the angle of the strut, as the cougar strut towers may be in a different spot than the mustang - does anyone know if that's the case?
