They were on Ebay now gone, I did find out they are 4x4.25(108) 5" BS, 17x8 front 17x9 rear or 17x8 all around, and like you said If it fits a 87-93 Mustang it will fit my 87 Cougar XR7.
SP450 = ASF42c for the E7TE or SP409= ASF32c for the E6TE head, I know the heads plug holes are different but I ask is will use the right plug ASF42c be ok with the flattop pistons I just want to make sure. Or is there another better plug to use I have always used motorcraft. And should I go with a double roller timing chain?, I replaced chain a few years back but can remember what I put on.
On the H.O conversion what spark plug should I use? I like motorcraft but what one, SP450 (.460 reach) or SP409 (.708 reach).With the E7TE heads? Or what else is out there that is best for this conversion? On the conversions lists I read I have not seen anything on spark plugs. Thank you
I know they say I can use a DA1 5 speed computer, but might cause slight hesitation not anything to noticeable. They say the DA1 has a little better tune and can be found more of than the DC. I just want to know of any thing else like the DC computer 87,88 SD or newer that is for auto, I found one E7SF-12A650-C1A (DC) 87-88, Just want it right the first time. I think after 88 did they switch to MAF is that why there is only a couple of options?
I going to do the H.O conversion just bought heads, and buying the rest of parts later. I am using the coolcats list of parts, so my question is what computer # to use I see they have some part numbers like DA1 just want a full part number to go by. Everything will be stock H.O parts and the whole top end, except mass air I will be keeping SD for now. I have an auto.
TPS volt are good, spark is good. I have a wire that has been cut open for years but car ran great so I didn't worry about. Now looking at the drawing diagram where the 2 10 pin connectors are the wire come out of the wire loom and I can not figure out what that wire was until I seen the diagram. It looks like wire # 19 hego sensor ground and its come out of the wire loom about 5 to 6 inches back from the 10 pin connectors and about middle of car below ac line. Talked to my friend who works for ford, said without looking at the car said vac leak at intake because of both O2s saying lean. I will do the cross counts, broke wire, ground and check back . Thank you
I unplug O2s and nothing, unplug spout and motor idle went up and down like it was going to cut off. Unplug intake air temp sensor motor idled up, unplug coolant temp sensor same thing. Could it be the O2s?
State Trooper had car before us, bought it new and we have bill of sale and sticker and it says 93 so that's what we put in . Just cold air intake and true dual flowmaster exhaust. Check Dist timing and its right on, will check ecu ground and the other things. When I unplug FPR psi went up to 40 and she smoothed out like the FPR is bad maybe or is that normal? Is there two ports to test fuel psi? I didn't look much seen the one front right by number one cylinder. Don't know if yours is the same.
Its 93 gas with stabilizer and I never fill up. Just did fuel pressure and its 37psi at idle, never drove down road but did drive back and forward about 20 yards or so play with gas pedal and put car in different gears and pressure never drop below 28. I took off vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator and psi went to 40, 42, and cars idle smoothed out and sound better. When I put vacuum line back on car start to run rough again. I replace fpr a couple years ago but could that be my problem?
Got car to stay running and check some things out. I did not check fuel pressure don't have gauge yet, but I check top dead center again on dizy check OK, tps OK, IAC OK Throttle body really seams too be sucking a lot more air then normal sometimes she chokes out with to much air (with not enough fuel). When driving around town the pedal push down from a stop to pick up speed all she would do is sputter and then open up but like . I with you guys I think fuel pump problem. Don't drive car but maybe 800 miles a year now and the pump in the tank is only 2 years old, but I know things go bad. When I replaced pump I did notice that the strainer kept falling off I got it to stay on but I wondering if that could be something? Got a friend at Ford he's a diesel tech I am going to see if he has a gauge kit so I can check fuel.
Code 12 could be IAC right? Do not know fuel pressure, replaced fuel pump about 2 years ago. Pump sounds good and shuts off and then comes on when car does run. When running down the road I will push pedal down with a little hesitation and then she will go with no problems. Its when she is cold and warming up she doesn't want to stay running. It said in book that code 91 is o2lean and ss1 shift solenoid, (neutral safety switch) I am guessing. Just replace dizy pip and control mod, plugs wire cap and button, ignition coil. I will check spark to see what color and to look at plugs and see whats going on. Funny thing is I just remember when I had a cd player, amp and subs installed shortly after the car didn't want to run right. The factory amp had to be unplug because it would mess up the new amp and radio because of the common ground. I wonder if a ground to the factory amp being open is to blame? Don't think so but I seen some weird things over the years. Car does have cold air intake and flowmaster true duals but been on car for 10 plus years with no problems. thank you
I am getting codes 12, 41, and 91, I know what they mean but what could cause this? I have replaced a lot of parts except ECT and neutral safety switch. I do get a bang some times when trans shifts in to overdrive and when she goes in reverse. All vacuum lines are good, looks like I have volts to TPs, egrps. When warmed up she will stay running today was 70s and she would not stay running. I smell gas, and no smoke out exhaust. Any ideas? Thank you...
