Aod uses the shift lever facing downward for floor shift and up for column shift. 4r uses lever facing down only, range sensor is above it.
4r column shifts are cable based. Aod are linkage.
So basically 4r lever is in wrong position and shift pattern is reversed for our column shift. You might be able to weld or bolt a lever extension on to make it work, i didnt want to mod trans.
My plan was to retrofit an explorer column shift, since it works perfectly with 4r. However, seemed like a ridiculous project, so i just swapped in a floor shift from 96 mustang. Doesnt look right in console, may switch to an actual thunderbird floor shift or see if i can get bezel to work on mustang shifter.
I switched to electric after my stock fan clutch locked up during a hard rev. Destroyed the fan, radiator, water pump and timing cover. Launched one fan blade into the battery, rupturing it. Another blade completely exited through one of the scoops on my TC hood. I got a salvage yard crown vic electric fan, and bought a nice fan controller from DCC for 80 bucks. I ran it with the stock alt for awhile, but wouldn't recommend it. I'm running a 130A 3g now.
In your case, sticking with the clutched fan makes the most sense cost-wise. I wouldn't worry about the clutch you bought, should be as good as any. The heavy duty would only matter if you were having cooling issues, basically makes the fan run more. The mustang fan is nothing special, its not gonna overload the clutch or something.
A cooler thermostat won't effect your cars warm up time, it simply opens at a lower temp. So installing a 180* thermostat will still allow the engine to heat to 180* in the same amount of time as a 210*, your temps will just never go over the thermostat's temp if the cooling system is adequate and working correctly. A 180* was fine with no codes for me. I wouldn't go lower than that on a stock motor.
I wouldn't recommend driving without a fan as its too easy to forget for a minute and overheat your car. The fan doesn't really matter while moving, but when stopped temps will rise amazingly quick. You can do it if needed, but be very careful.
Ive been running one with baumann for 30k miles. Works awesome.
Tried to get column shift to work with custom cables. Gave up and installed floor shifter. If you have to have column shift, I was gonna try to retrofit an explorer column shift system next. Floor shift is way easier though.
The factory crossmember works slid all the way back. But isnt perfect. I switched to a stifflers crossmember, looks much nicer and fits perfectly.
My exhaust fits fine. Ford shorty headers and summit or jegs h-pipe for auto fox.
My trans is a stock from a 2002 3.8 stang, with a b&m holeshot 2400-stall converter.
I need a set of 87-88 thunderbird headlights. Don't care about reflector condition, just need a set of lenses to sand smooth and polish for a projector conversion. Thanks, Chris
I do. The rear fits perfectly with the mark VII axle. The front is a bit too wide with the SN95 spindles. The drivers side is right even with the fender, and the passenger side sticks out half an inch. The body on my car is complete junk, so not a great example of fitment. I replaced the passenger fender with a junkyard unit from an earlier car, I believe thats the issue there. It had what appeared to be fire ax damage when I bought it.
I can snap some fitment pics tomorrow, but again, my car isn't a great example.