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Engine Tech / No Run Problem
and i get the same voltage on mine.
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Let me try to answer some of your questions.
The red "engine" light is duel purpose, Low oil pressure or engine overheating.
Your car has no check engine light.
The red wire on the fuel injectors should be 12v with the ignition in run or start.
The EEC provides ground pulses to the tan wires to operate the injectors.
The EEC will only pulse the injectors if the engine is turning over.
The EEC knows the engine is turning over if it is receiving PIP pulses from the ignition module. (danzajax's procedure tricks the EEC into thinking the engine is turning over)
Jumpering 12v and ground directly to the injectors can destroy the injectors)
The shop manual method to test if the injectors are pulsing is :
1. Install your fuel pressure gauge.
2. Pressurize the fuel by doing several "primes" and confirm that it can hold the pressure with the pump stopped at a nominal 39 psi.
3. Unplug the fuel pump relay.
4. Crank the engine for 5 seconds.
5. The fuel pressure should drop to between 10 and 20 psi.
There is a specialized test light call a noid light for testing for injector pulses. It has connectors that match up to your injector connector.
Or you can make do with a regular test light that you can use for other stuff. (note, not a self powered continuity tester type light)
So off you go to the car parts store for a fuel pressure gauge and a test light.
Here is a good way to check. If you are comfortable re-seating/aligning the distributor.
Unbolt the distributor. Pull it free from the cam gear but leave it touching the block (leaving the wires attached). Remove the cap and with the car in run, rotate the rotor button (counter clock-wise). The injectors should fire and the spark plugs should pop. You should be able to get a good close look at the injectors firing. When do it on my MPFI with the upper intake off, I can easily hear the injector spraying.
-DZ
how hot does it get in alabama?
There is no factory body kit...