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Messages - tr_guy79

2
Events & Shows / 2nd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet 04/30/11
Date: Saturday April 30th, 2011
Time: 10:00 AM
Location:
Start -> Brandywine Creek State Park Area (+39° 50' 3.70", -75° 34' 32.08")
Finish -> Ridley Creek State Park Picnic Area #11(+39° 56' 30.53", -75° 27' 7.25")


=========================================================


I think last year worked out pretty well, including the impromptu pit stop at Ruby's Diner

Same Vehicle Qualifications as last year; Vehicle should be ONE or more of the following

-Thunderbird
-FOX Chassis
-Turbocharged 2.3 Lima

This is a pretty laid back group. We had a great time last year, and are hoping for an even bigger turn out this year.  The route from the meeting point to the end point is a great drive through some great hilly twisty country side.

The end point also has a nice picnic/bbq area that we ended up playing some frisbee in last time. 

All in all just a good time with like minded people. Post to let me know if you will be attending, and I will add you to the list
http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000127

-Shane
4
Lounge / Hcor
Jon,

Never heard back from you on that trans, and cant find your number now.....

(The '85 is for sale too)
5
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Clean Rust Free '85.5 TC For sale $4700 (Philly)
This is just a feeler, that serious interest may garner a sale. I have been really itching for some V8 Muscle in the drive way, and have a line on a clean '87 Vette. Problem is, I need to sell the bird to buy it.

The car is very clean. I am the 3rd owner and purchased it in November. The vehicle has spend 90%+ of its life in FL.

Since I bought the car I have done the following
-Replaced Alternator
-Replaced Timing belt
-Two new strut mounts
-New plugs,wires,cap,rotor
-Outer Tie rod end
-Alignment
-Fuel pressure regulator
-87-88 ECT panel
-Full trans service
-Bands adjusted on trans
-New vacspoogem modulator
-Replace accy belts
-Rear Brakes and wheel cylinder
-Flush and fill rear diff (Incl. Posi additive)
-New oil pressure sending unit
-HEATER CORE WAS JUST DONE!!!!

The car is currently sitting on snowflakes with Goodyear RS-A with good tread. The wheels have MN12 center caps, which look really nice with the Flemish Blue paint.

The car is NOT perfect though. It will need the passenger's side window repaired. The motor is getting voltage but not moving the window. Since the car does have VENT WINDOWS, you can get by without it for now. The A/C blows cold, and still has the original R12 charge. It needs a new motor mount, and the oil cooler lines replaced (they are currently bypassed and make the temp gauge read inaccurately hot). The turbo hotside has two broken bolts on the elbow, but works just fine that way. Exhaust sounds great. The trim around the rear window needs to be reinstalled.

The car has not been raped pilliaged, or molested, and has lived a very well cared for life. The car runs great, looks great, and turns heads everywhere. Even still has two working Marchal fogs with covers, and the console lid even latches. You will not find a more original rust free 4eye. It has the premium sound system, and still has a working factory amp. The OE radio has been replaced due to it not working, but I still have it so you can always get it fixed and reinstall.

It just had the oil changed, and I am including the following items

- LB3 and Large VAM (already has brown tops)
- Original 10 Holes (with marginal tires)
- New clips to install rear window trim
- Parts to repair current turbo's exhaust leak. May even be willing to throw in an SVO compressor housing in case you want to upgrade to FMIC later


Believe it or not, this car books for close to $10,000, but we all know those numbers are a bit "pie in the sky". Even so, $4700 is an extremely fair price.

I had it at the recent Tri-State NATO meet. If you click the link to it in my signature, I think there are some pictures towards the end.

Feel free to email me (trguy -at- hotmail -dot- com) PM me, or just respond here. Email is probably your best bet though.

I am at work now, so I cant load pics, but will try to do so tonight.

Also open to trades for some V8 Muscle, and am partial to Corvettes.

-Shane

--------------------
PA/MD/DE/NJ Spring meet: http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000119
6
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / True Turbo Coupes
True TC = A turbocoupe with the original Turboed Lima 2.3

This argument can go round and round.  It all comes down to what you like.  I like beating the snot out of sport compacts, and embarrassing a few modern "muscle" cars, while driving a 4cyl fuel sipper.

And I agree; Anyone who feels a 5spd TC is sluggish or underpowered, has not been in one that was properly running. Year for year, they outrun the 5.0 sport, and nip at the heels of the Mustang GT
7
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / True Turbo Coupes
An automatic TC is not a true indicator of what a TC can do... Trust me, I own both.

The 85-86 were a 3:45 diff and C3, just too tall on the gearing to work well with a turbo. 

The 87-88 were 3:73 diff (have one sitting) but the engine was "detuned" to 150hp (versus 190) because ford was (very rightly) worried about the longevity of the (POS) A4LD transmissions they used (Automatic 4speed LIGHT DUTY).  I so wish the had just made a new bellhousing for the AOD and used it instead.  I have a perfectly good  (relatively speaking) A4LD sitting, that I simply refuse to put in my '85. AOD conversion it will likely be for me.

-Shane
8
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / True Turbo Coupes
First, AMEN!!!

Of course I am biased.

I think alot of it has to do with habit.  When I bought my first TC 11 years ago, I told my dad that it should run low 16's- high 15's, and he literally laughed.  Alot of the old heads view 4 and 6 cyl. engines as the the cheap version, and turbo engines as finicky hard to tune and maintain.  These combined together makes the TC seem like an underpowered high maintenance car, that only gives you (model year dependant) about a 10 hp advantage over the tried and true, rumbly, push rod V8.

As far as making power, in my '87 with (what I consider) minor mods, I have a car that on a good day (ok, I concede, it is a little finicky) will put the back end into oncoming traffic going into 2nd gear, and with a gentle cruise (highway @ 70 and country roads @ 50) can return a 29.7 MPG (my personal best). Many people have made daily driven sub 13 second cars out of them.

But, alas, you are still missing the off idle torque and deep throaty rumble.  The torque isnt a big issue to me, but I do yearn for some bark that doesnt sound like an outboard out of the water (though I have gotten compliments on the exhaust tone).  I see a 4eye with a 460 in my future (there was one for sale on another forum that I still think about...)

-Shane
12
Electrical Tech / No power to IVR...
I skimmed through this, and wanted to offer the following input

1.  The "extra" black wire about 2" long in your plug is most likely NOT a ground.  It is probably actually a 12v feed.  I know this, because I am using it to power the gauges in my '87.  It is tied into the "dummy" light circuit.

2.  The smoke and inop heater/blower points to a bad ignition switch/connector, as does your burnt gy/y wire.  These cars are known for the contacts heating up and melting the housing and plug.  I fixed mine by disassembling the whole deal, cleaning it up, and epoxying it back together (YMMV).

3.  To properly test the lighting in the dash, would take the meter to each bulb and check for power AND ground. Just because it is gettting +12v, doesnt mean the ground is good at each bulb.


-Shane
13
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Introduction
Sure is... It was a nail biter... Thought for sure I was going to get outbid. 

I have wanted a 4eye for a very long time...  Just wish it wasnt dog slow... It is very hard to not modify it.  Add an intercooler here... Turn up the boost there...Install the 3" VAM and LB3 there... OY!!!
14
Electrical Tech / EATC illumination...
To fix the lighting.

Remove dash fascia (varies by model)
Remove 4 screws securing EATC module
Unplug 3 plugs from back (One is on the side for Rear Defrost)
Remove (2) 1/4" bolts from defrost plug
Remove (4) Phillips screws from housing. Two in bottom rear, Two in back side of the front lip
Slide rear housing off of  EATC module

This is where things vary... If you'd like, just remove the two bulbs and replace (194 I think)

If you dont want to risk breaking the bayonet mount, and/or want to clean it while its out, read on.

Remove (5) black Phillips head screws, holding circuit board to the front panel
If you are JUST replacing the bulbs, pull them out and replace

If you want to clean the buttons, remove the (2) Phillips screws holding the light bar, and then tip the face over and the buttons will fall out.

While you have everything apart, if any of your buttons are getting hard work, try gently rubbing an eyeglasses slotted screw driver between the rectangular contacts, and the dimple that they connect with. You want to se any build up off of the dimple and metal contacts without damaging it.  I have also used the end of a round tooth pick.  You actually have to be pretty darn rough with it to break the metal contacts off of the board.

If anyone wants this done, but doesnt want to deal with it, or is worried about breaking something, pull you module, and ship it to me with $20 and return postage... I will fully clean, and replace lighting.

(I actually just did that all from memory...)

-Shane

PS... Make sure you put your rear defrost switch back in the right way, or you will be really confused when you try to use it, and "ON" is towards the bottom (Squiggly arrows point up)