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Messages - MasterBlaster

1
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Key retainer?
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I think I'm gonna do what Tom did and zip tie the thing in the up position so I don't have to bother with it.
As stated, just make  sure you don't end up like the "Runaway Lexus" driver if your throttle sticks open. You're smart enough to turn off the key, but *whoops*, you turned it too far, locked the steering wheel, and less than 2 seconds later crashed into a busload of Nuns and Orphans at 90MPH while frantically trying to turn the key to unlock it again.
3
Engine Tech / overheating problem?
Your profile says "1988 xr7", so I'm assuming the 5.0 V8?

Could be a bad sensor, a bad gauge, incorrect voltage to the gauge, or actually overheating.

If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can check the resistance of the coolant sensor, to see if it's in range. It's as good a place as any to start (And this might be better in the "Engine Tech" section).

Here's a little chart I have:
4
Drivetrain Tech / Wierd Air Sound
4 common causes:
Vacuum pipes or parts for the heater controls.
Cruise control release valve at the brake pedal (if equipped).
Automatic parking brake release (if equipped).
Turbo boost gauge hose (but you don't have one).
5
Electrical Tech / Integrated Voltage Regulator in the dash
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whats resistivity readings you getting on your gauge?
12.5 ohms.  Of course, you can't make any simple conclusions with that, since a heater wire's resistance will change drastically once it gets hot.

Example 1:
14.5v (running) / 12.5ohms = 1.16amps = 16.82watts
I'm pretty sure my dash never got that toasty.

Example 2:
H4 headlight bulb: 14.5v / 0.2ohms = 72.5amps = 1051watts
Obviously, the headlights would suck up ALL the alternator's output if the filament's resistance didn't change *really* soon after power was applied.

The only way to properly test is with an in-line ammeter to measure the flow, and calculate back to get the ohms with the circuit in use.

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It does reduce the voltage down and with approx 60ohms at approx 12vdc, that tells us a lot.
But that's a completely separate circuit, that just happens to be in the same case as the contacts. The power supply to the gauges doesn't go through the coil, just the points. And the circuit isn't isolated from the rest of the car, so the heater coil won't affect the voltage any more than opening the glove box and having the little light bulb turn on.
6
Electrical Tech / Integrated Voltage Regulator in the dash
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The symbol shown in that regulator looks more like a heating element than a relay coil
Because that's exactly what it is. Something has to heat up the bi-metal strip. You'll see the same wire wrapped around the "actuator" strip holding the needles in the other gauges. Here's a fuel gauge I just took out of my Turbo cluster to illustrate...
.
7
Electrical Tech / glove box light?
Here's a front and back pic of the light itself, plus a pic of the cutout at the top right of the glovebox where the light attaches with 1 screw...
9
Lounge / Alright. I have proof now...
Oh, just let him live under the fender. Eventually he'll get careless, and one rainy evening you'll jump into your car, quickly start up the engine, hear a led "thunk-thunk", and when you back up a bit up you'll find this. Serves him right for trying to jump through a spinning fan belt.
.


10
Engine Tech / ECTS help
Well, *I* called it the EEC sensor, but that's just to make sure you're looking at the right one. ECTS is more "correct".
11
Engine Tech / ECTS help
Unless my memory has gone to pot, the sensor for the gauge is a single wire, down low behind the distributor on the driver's side, and the EEC sensor is in the metal heater pipe, passenger side, close to the oil filler, 2-wire connector.
13
Suspension/Steering / Sloppy brake pedal.
If you're not losing fluid (doesn't need to be topped up), then there's an internal leak, and that spells master cylinder. Was the second MC new, used, or rebuilt?
14
Lounge / Craigslist Rant...
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I pull up the email craigslist sends you (I didn't have an account yet) when you make a post to edit/delete your ad.
Did you click the link in the first e-mail to verify the ad, and get it published? (It's not automatic if you're unregistered).
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I delete the ad, sign up (thinking that will somehow verify me) and post it again.
Now you should have an "account" page... https://accounts.craigslist.org/
Is your ad still listed there in green?
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Look for it a few hours later and no dice. WTF??? I delete it again and this time I get the anti-spamming warning.
Occasionally there's server problems, where some ads don't show up in the listings.
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Aha! Someone (or something) is flagging my ads!!! Problem is, I have no idea why and no explanation is given either.
Did you come visit us in the Flag Help forum, as the e-mail instructed?
http://detroit.craigslist.org/forums/?forumID=3
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What a great setup! A quick google search reveals that some people flag the ads of competitors, while others have nothing better to do but to nitpick discrepancies of ads ad flag them. How f'n lame is that?
As FHelp would have told you, it takes MANY flags to bring an ad down, not just a couple of disgruntled weenies.
15
Lounge / custom headlights.
Oh, next you'll be complaining that the nose doesn't belong on that year (quarter windows do look kinda pre-87 squarish), the hood prop rod looks silly, and that spark plug #3 is gapped wrong.  :shakeass: