First of all I was listening to the, what you call "dumb asses" on this site.
Second, I tested with a voltmeter using the procedure noted above, and the voltage was not increasing/decreasing while pressing/depressing the throttle. There were spots where there was no change in voltage, while the throttle position was changing.
Third, I don't think I need to be talked down to, just because I'm new at this. I maybe be new at this, but I'm not an idiot. So take your "its not like we don't do this everyday you know" attitude and shove it.
OK, you all make great sense, and I purchased a new TPS. I've located the current one, and it looks simple enough for even a newbie like me can do.
This one has where the screw holes are, there not just holes, so it looks like it can be adjusted, not like the factory one. If I put it in, and it's not in the right position, it will probably just idle too low or too high, right?
I just spoke with my brother who talked to the mechanic who said it was the computer that's causing the Idle Air Control Valve to stick. Replacing the Idle Air Control Valve won't help.
Any ideas what computer is in this car, and where I might find one.
If I have to change it, are the anything I have to setup again, like idle and such?
Hi all, I'm a newbie. I just inherited a '87 T-Birb Turbo Coupe with 223,000 km. It' runs great, doesn't leak or use a drop of oil. But it has an Idling problem. Usually it appears after the first stop and start. For some reason the idle will stick at around 2000 RPM. My brother said that when it happens, turn the key on and off, so that the engine doesn't turn over, and it will correct it. But that's not fixing it. He had a mechanic look at it, and he said it was a problem with the plunger getting stuck. I guess he tried to find the part, but couldn't find a replacement. But some times, I can sit at a red light, and it will slowly climb. Cycle the iginition, and it calms down.
To me it seems to be electronic. But I don't know.
