I pulled the entire rear-end from my 87 20th anniversary cougar. It still has the upper and lower stock control arms and rear springs with it. The rear drum brakes will need replaced; everything was rusted out pretty bad. As I said, it has an Auburn limited slip and 3.73 gears. Nothing wrong with the rear-end, i swapped in a 9" so this one is for sale.
I also have a set of MOOG cargo coils for the rear-end and urethane bushings for them. These are brand new, were never installed.
The rear-end is the standard deal, pretty well rusted up on the outside, but mechanically solid. Bushings on the control arms are stock and pretty well worn.
I didn't take any pics of the stuff yet, but will if someone is interested.
Price is negotiable; make me an offer. Stuff is located in Nicktown, PA 15762. Obviously, for the size and weight of the stuff, i'm not shipping it anywhere, so i guess local interest only. I'm willing to drive an hour or so for delivery though.
I don't know if they make them. Mine was aluminum. My dads friend has a shop and did me a huge favor so I got mine at wholesale price. It cost me $100, and i picked it up. I would imagine about $140.00 for you. Give or take.
I painted mine too before I put it on. i figure next time i need one, they may be non existant. So i wanted to preserve it. And jsut as a fyi its a 22.1 gallon tank. thats what 1987 and 1988 cars had.
I called them, they rerouted me to an office in PA. The guy said it would be an F23B for $155.73 + tax and shipping. He also said it was just a steel tank; that he doesn't deal with anything aluminum. Wonder how your got an aluminum tank?
Actually there is a company who makes tanks for our cars. I just got a tank from my 88.
The companies name was SPI i think. They had a location in Worcester, Mass. On the same street as the higgins armory. If you want to do a little searching. I cant find the reciept, so I don't know the number.
1. My pump assembly is all rusted out and has sprung a pinhole leak on one of the tubes sticking out the top that hte fuel lines connect to. I patched it up with JB Weld for now, but I don't want to rely on this with what I'm doing to the rest of the car.
2. I had found the perfect new pump assembly, Fox Body Fuel Injection's pump on a stick, which already had -AN fittings on it and was a drop in replacement for the stocker. Unfortunately, they don't make or sell this product anymore.
3. Now I'm probably going to go with an inline Aeromotive pump or something, and figured a nice clean, new tank out back with solid fittings would be a nice addition to the car. Plus, I'm having a hard time finding a replacment stock assembly from NAPA, etc... It would also be nice to have some threaded -AN fittings to screw the stainless hoses from my fuel rails into, instead of the stock hose barbs on the pump hat.
I searched and couldn't find any information, so here goes.
I'd like to replace the fuel tank in my '87 with an aftermarket aluminum unit or a plastic fuel cell. I can't find anyone out there who manufactures something that would work.
I see that an aluminum Fox Body fuel tank from Rick's Hot Rod Shop is real nice, but is made for the stangs and looks totally different than our cars' tanks. I can't mount a fuel cell in the trunk, either, due to stereo equipment I just can't part with.
Anybody have any ideas or suggestions, aside from fabbing my own? I don't have the skills or welding supplies to make one myself.
I'm planning on replacing the stock digital dash piece in my car with a custom aluminum plate with some AutoMeter gauges in it; tach, speedo, fuel level, water temp, trans temp, oil pressure, etc...
What do you do if you remove the stock odometer and swap in a new one with zero miles on it? I know everytime i get the car inspected the guy asks for the mileage and writes it down. Won't the DMV have an issue if the guy was writing 125,000+ miles for years and suddenly submits 5 or 10 miles, like I'm starting over? Or won't they care?
Hesitant to do this swap till i find out what the deal is.
I noticed you used AN fitting hoses on the front...did you fab those yourself or does someone make those as a kit? Just curious as mine were direct plug in.
The flexible stainless hoses on the front are from InlineTube. I had to get the extended length kit they sell. I tried standard mustang type front lines from Russell and they were too short. The lines were almost kinking. The InlineTube kit is all separate parts; the flexible hose screws onto whatever type of banjo end or hard line end you request from them. It worked out really well I think.
Ok, yeah, i figured that hole would be a problem. The bolt pattern for the SN boosters/pedals is slightly different... just a few weeks ago I had to modify my Mach 1 pedals to work with the fox holes. so how is the pedal feel?
No idea on the pedal feel yet. The car is still on jackstands waiting on a motor and transmission installation.
Did you have to 'modify' the strut tower to get that booster in? I had the same unit when I did my brake setup and it looked to big to fit; that and I heard from other people it wouldn't fit without beating the strut tower.
edit: from what I can tell you didn't, but still thought i'd ask...
No, I didn't have to take a hammer to the strut tower. It was a very, very, very tight fit though. I did have to elongate and drill out a few of the booster mounting bolt holes, most notably the bottom left one that everyone always talks about as being the problem. Yeah, it is a problem. Once I enlarged a couple of the holes a bit I managed to sqeeze the booster in.
No he meant with with the stock converter... I dropped .5 with the 2600 from stock...
With the stereo gear, I'm bettin' it weighs more than 3500 lbs... My 5.0 TC weighed 3760 with me(200), a small tool box, spare, jack and 3/4 tank of gas... To double check, I got out of the car and weight dropped to exactly 3560 lbs
BTW At roughly 3650(incl me), with the TF heads & cam, Cobra intake, 2600 converter, etc, I've gone 13.11 @ 105, with it running 13.3s all day long... Went 12.23 @ 112 with a 85hp shot...
Wow, I guess I need a new torque converter. As my setup is very similar to yours, a 2600 stall would work well? I still want to drive this on the street and not have to rev to 3,000 to pull out at redlights.
I removed the spare tire, jack, and have no tools in the car. I did have it weighed on a reputable scale. It is 3,500lbs. with a tank of gas and all the stereo gear minus me in it. I'm a big guy, so add another 240lbs. with me in it.
No offense to you, but E-cam FTMFL! Sounding lumpy and getting you down the track quickly are 2 different things. What converter/gears were you running when you got that 14.2? From the sound of it I'd say you were running the stock converter.....That's about 5 tenths right there with the e-cam....
Yep, stock converter. The stock 7.5" rear end is in the car now with 3.73 gears and a limited slip. Car weighs in at around 3,500lbs. without me in it too.
I'm loosing 1/2 a second just because of that cam?!?!?! That's hard to believe.
Lots of better choices than the e-cam. Do you want a cam that makes your engine sound lumpy or one that will max out your heads and intake performance wise?
I'm no expert but who ever told you e-cam was the only one that could give you good vacuum and power was way off. I ran a TFS-1 cam in a similar setup (Eddy alum heads/cobra intake, 306 ci motor) and it ran great with awsome drivability and power. Not lumpy at all, good idle.
While the motor is out of the car I would seriously look into a different cam.
I put the cam in the engine about 6 years ago. I didn't know a whole lot about engines back then and trusted the guy at the performance shop for a recommendation. As I'm trying to get the motor back in the car soon, I probably won't change it yet.
Quote from: daboss351;226283
i think he wanted sound over power
I do like the sound of the E-cam, but also wanted more power over the stock bumpstick. I think I got a little of both. I know it's not the best choice for the heads I have right now.
The block, crank, and pistons have over 125,000 miles on them. I am planning on putting a dry nitrous setup on this motor in lieu of a supercharger for now and seeing how it does down the 1/4. I already am predicting the engine not lasting long on the spray, but I'll run it till it blows. I have plans for a DSS 347 shortblock down the road. Just don't have the $$$ for a new, blueprinted block right now.
Cool, keep the pics coming. So which heads and cam did you go with?
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads and a Ford Racing E303 cam. I was told the E cam was the lumpiest one I could go with and still maintain enough vacuum for my brake booster to work. With the stock AOD I ran a best of 14.2 a few years ago. The transmission is worn out and I do have about 500lbs. worth of stereo equipment in the car. I hope to do a little better this year with the C4.
The motor needed freshening up. The block, pistons, and crankshaft are all that's left stock. Everything else has been replaced.
I replaced the oil pump, added a windage tray, new oil pan, harmonic balancer, timing cover, water pump, motor mounts, and painted the block in the last week.
More pics to come as progress is made...Unfortunately, it's a slooooooowwww process.
