Thanks for the lead, brings back memories. For a second I was tempted to phone myself. He had managed to clock about 30K miles in the last year, sort of losing its lower mileage status. He was also a heavy smoker so i'm sure the interior has taken a toll. As you guys stated the body is likely starting to show its age due to winter driving. Still its not a bad price for the car, I think you should swing it. All things considered it still would be very nice driver quality.
Yes I did see that ad on kijiji. The car is listed as from dartmouth, but I have never seen it in person. Pictures don't indicate if the lower body panels were painted to hide body work or if the car is in relative rust free condition. Headlights don't look weathered though, so it may not be a bad car. The owner has posted multiple times. There was also 4 eyed cat on kijiji recently. That was for sale previously about the same time I sold mine. I thought at the time it was presented as a rare car. Selling your house and moving to sackville? I thought in previous posts you wanted to move away from HRM. Are you still on the waiting list for RCMP training?
Yes the 3.5L seems to work very nice, it has 100,00kms on it. Although not much better mileage on the highway than the cougar. I just sold a 1994 concorde with a 3.5L which I had for 10 years, the new one does seem to have more power. In my opinion one disadvantage is the interfence aspect of the newer 3.5L I should have sold you the cougar when you had an ad in the bargain hunter looking for a nice 1987-1988 cougar!
Hello ,its 87 anniv, the previous owner of the above mentioned cougar. Since I don't have a fox tbird/cougar I don't logon often. I had the car for 19 years, and played with it as an summer driver only for that time. When I was finally ready to sell it there was very little interest in it. I had tried to sell it off and on for a year and half. The gentlemen who bought it said he was going to drive it as a car so I sort of assumed It would be a good possibility it would see some winter driving. I think the cars paint and rims would deteriorate rather quickly if it seen any amout of winter driving which was not cleaned off. Looking back, I would have had better value for my money had I driven the cougar as a car for 15 years. I was at the truro car show selling some odds and ends and the beginning of June and was suprised to find someone who recognized some duplicate 20th parts I had. He told me had one of the nicest in north america with only a few thousand km's on it. I had heard rumors of this car before so I believe the story to be true. He's part of a familly run dealership in mahome bay/bridgewater area that apparently ordered the car new. He's kind of pen 15y (maybe even a member or lurker here!) and thinks the car is an investment, worth a lot of money and doesn't even like tell many people about it. He presumably doesn't want to be pestered by offers to sell his valuable collector car. I don't know the actual value of that car but I told him I had trouble even getting people to look at my car. I can remenber back to 1987 and those cars were 24K canadian at a local dealership. I do miss the cougar since it was such a nice highway car. However I was looking for something as nice the cougar I could drive year round but not worry about getting minor parking lot dings. I already have plenty of disabled projects I can't drive. I know this isn't a mopar board (and I am a ford guy) but attached is what I came up as a replacement cougar for year round driving. Its a 02 3.5L and plan on driving it in the winter, rims included. Previous owner probably thought the same of this car as I did my cougar.
Thanks for the tips thunder ckicken. I may try to post in the cars section under $5000. Try to market it more of a car than as a collectible car. As you stated the big problem is the volume of cars. Constant renewing of the ad (within 5 pages) is useful for maximium exposure. Does anyone bother with print mediums such as the auto trader or bargain hunter anymore? The last local auto trader I saw was more of a fourm for the dealers. Bargain hunter looks thin these days.
The car doesn't really have to go, Its just that like all of us garage space is at a premium with various projects. Plus I'm married (most of you guys know what I'm talking about). It just seems that anyone who expressed interest in the car is all wrapped up in the price being too high for that year and model of car. Clean condition and/or low mileage does not seem to have a significant effect on the resale value of these cars. My inlaws have recently sold a 1999 4dr cavalier which was a typical Nova Scotia car for $2200. The chassis was never undercoated, all scaley underneath and even fuel /brake lines had previously rusted off. I know they are two different types of cars, but both are at the bottom of their depreciaton cycle and a rust free car should be worth twice as much as that cavalier. If not, then I should be able to drive my car to the condition of the cavalier (about two winters here!) and still have a value equal to what others indicate it to be worth. I even had one guy look at the car who seemed to be more interested in a maverick grabber clone project I have been working on for years. He walked right past the cougar to check it out. As was stated in a previous post, most people don't know or care about special editions of unpopular cars.
I understand what people are telling me about sellers remorse when seeing your former car abused. I used to own that 1976 torino elite that was shown here with the engine fire. I had lost track of the car but had seen it a cruise night about two years ago. I was talking to the owner and half-joking stated I would like to buy it back if he ever sold it. Last year he tracked me down and stated he was seperating from his wife and ready to sell. But like me and the 20th I guess, he had an inflated price on it. Told me he purchased if for eight, but has spent some on it and it was insured for more than that. The next thing I see it for sale with a new owner and a title still in a local salvage yards name. I saw that car in person at a local show/swap meet this spring and man did that car get hot. I have seen carb fires before but this one looked like it started from the bottom up. Power steering lines burt off, rad shrould completely melted, even the hood had buckled slightly. All the plastic and wiring was melted underneath the hood. Fuel line still intact from the pump up to the carb though. Can't really think of another reason for that car to catch fire!
I'm wondering what the general consensus is for a realistic value of well-preserved rust free 20th anniversary. I've been trying to sell it locally and once here on the site for $5500. Basically I'm getting limited response and mainly from dealer types who offer me 1/2 of what I'm asking. I have had the car for almost twenty years have rarely driven it and preserved it assuming it would have had some collectivity in the future. If I knew then what I know then I would have driven the darn thing to get the residual value out of the car. The reason why I asking is I'm at the point where I’m considering using the car as a daily driver year round if the car is really only worth 1/2 of what I’m asking. I hate to do it, but seems to be the most reasonable option. I'm not trying to sell the car with this post, just looking for honest opinions, Thanks
Okay, I haven't played around much with late model stereos to observe that effect. The most I've heard is the turn signals in my 8 track!
Interesting the scope would show an open winding or diode across the battery. I could see the voltage dropping to say 12.5 V, but I would have thought the battery would have smoothed things out under minimal load conditions
The noise of the strobes in the cop car is likely due to the switching of the strobes. Circuit probably uses a N channel mosfet and pulls the inductive load down with a square wave generating all sorts of electrical noise.
There may be slight measurable ripple but I would think the cheap stereo would have to be relativley high current draw to load down a good battery significantly. It may be more of a switching supply in a cheap stereo that creates noise. The switching frequency can develop harmonics in the RF range. This can overload the RF input and be detected and amplified as background noise in the speakers. (same principle as ignition noise on the am band). Sometimes various voltages from a switiching supply are 1/2 wave rectified with barely adequate filtering. This may also generate noise on the circuits powered by these voltages.
The battery would act as a filter and ideal voltage supply resulting in a straight line across the scope. Very little ripple would be observed even on a small volt/div setting. The only exception would be if a varying high current load were placed on the battery. Battery voltage would dip with load. With the battery (load) removed a measurable dc and ac rms voltage could be obtained. Car alternators are rectified three phase. This is why the old school trick of removing the battery terminal to verify alternator operation is not recommended. Excessive ripple and potential for increased voltage in parallel with the electronics would result.
Thanks for the compliment Jkirchman. It is the factory 150 hp engine with single exhaust. That intake plate is just a dress up. Otherwise the car is original.
48K original miles. Two owner car, I've owned it since 1991. Original paint, stored in a heated garage, occasional summer driver. No rust. Detailed engine compartment. Original engine. Car located near Halifax Nova Scotia. $5500 US OBO.
Thanks for the comments on the car, FLSTCI71. I'm basically in the same situation as you were 20 years ago, have a 2 1/2 year old at home. Just trying to clear space for another project. One of ny dream cars is a 57 fairlane, I see you have a 57 custom .
That's just a plate, its not a HO. I suppose that makes it non original but I have still have the original one somewhere. I also have the original centre caps. The ones on the car are standard mustang caps. I had replaced then as a precaution against theft. At the time the originals were still avaliable from ford but the price was something like $125 for each cap. The only other modification is the addition of sequential lights. These are units I built myself, which sequence only with the turn indicator, not the application of the brakes.
