Giving up on my baby. Spent over 5k on body , paint , kit and wheels (17" TSW rims/General UHP Tires from discount tire) 2 years back only to have tranny problems. Automatic 4AOD, only no OD anymore. Maxes out at about 65 mph and just revs after that. Original motor still works fine. Always used castrol full synthetic. KNN drop in filter. New spark plug wires. New radiator and hoses. Bosch double platinum spark plugs. Optoma red top 1 year old. Upgraded power and ground cables with Rockford Terminals. Alt 1 year old. newer shocks/ struts (3 years) Now for the stuff that needs fixing: needs new power window motors. Power windows of track. needs new a/c evaporator. compressor is fine. needs new tranny(as stated before.) radio has been removed and speakers have been rmoved. Has viper alarm with remote start. There are a few dings since the paint job. can get new pics. Vehicle is in 33980. South west Fl. Asking 3.5k Original turbines for sale as well. $100 for all 4 turbines. Turbines in 32839 central FL. Orlando area.
You can use the best speakers in the world, but if you amps are or you don't use a DSP(signal processor) you can hang it up. There is no replacement. Additionally, home speakers may not hold up well in the extreme heat and cold environment of our cars. The materials are usually quite different. You need clean power and lots of it. So if you did not know, there is a lot more to this than good speakers. Look into a 3g or better alt upgrade, a capacitor, heavy gauge power wires and a good signal processor to start with. BTW most amps put out peak power in the 2-4 ohm range. I would suggest a 2 chanel for the subs and a 5 chanel for the inside speakers. A good center for the car is a lil hard to find for a decent price. Good luck and let us know how things turn out. I've sold/installed car audio in the past and currently sell/instal home audio. Let me know it you got any questions.
Any ever have a problem getting out the turn signal stalk of of the old switch to put into the new. My guide tells me it should just pull out but I've tried everything. I've taken that switch completely apart and it will not budge. I've used everything short of a hammer. so it there is some trick? someone please let me know. If someone has an extra I would appreciate that as well.
I solved the problem. I had to smash the thing into submission. All is well now
I bought the switch from Autozone for cheap around $11. also got a harness from another ford though aparantly they can be special ordered from autozone for under $10. The bad wire was blue with a yellow stripe if I'm correct. It was burnt so I could not tell. I put a 5amp fuse in-line with that power wire and buttoned everything up. Hopefully it's all good now. still have the turn signals not working. Don't know it its the flasher or the whole part with the hazards and the wipers. will keep you informed. It's a cheap fix. you do have to to get that tamper-proof torx bit though.
My wire harness connector is toast:flame: melted and broken into two pieces. I've got one burnt wire. So where could I get a replacement. Do I need to go to the junkyard and cut one off? What cars can I get one from? I think I'm going to put my own fuse on the wire that is the culprit. Can't believe ford would do such a thing. I could have roasted my whole car.:flame: This sucks to a degree I can't believe. This is my only car.
Can't believe it was the switch again. This is my fourth in six years. For some reason i just thought there was no way it was the same problem. Got to go with obvious fist before I second guess myself. Thanks
So I'm driving along I4 and hit a bump and my dash light go blank. Now I've had this problem before and tapping on the cluster (full electronic) usually puts things back in line. That did not help. Checked the fuse. fuse is still good. Now I have no back lighting too.(had back lighting last time this happened) and the electronic ATC is not working either. On top of that I have no turn signals. (may or may not be related) Hazards do work though. So the next time I start my car, everything works again. (except for the turn signals) and then it goes back out ten minutes down the road. I pull over check the fuse again (5 amp) and after some wigglin' dash lights works. Then it goes out again. Checked other threads and found good info but none helped for me. I'm thinking I have a shortage in a wire some where? Can I just rewire the power for the dash and the atc and put my own fuse on it? I want to fix this thing for good. and has anyone had the problem with the turn signals. the bulds are fine and the fuse is not blown there either. Before I go replacing parts that cost alot and do me no good, I'd like to take care of this. I'm pretty good with electical parts and I just need to be pointed in the right direction.
sorry to hear of your bad luck. I have had nothin but good luck with mine. All my friends have had their yellow tops die within two years and with the warranty gone. they were screwed. I can only talk about my experience. true the yellow top is a deep cycle battery and on paper everything told me to go yellow when my last red top finally gave out, I'm good going red.
You may have a 6 3/4 or what's called an oversized 6.5 I've had four different sets in the last six years. mine all fit. I've used infinity blaupunkt pioneer and now polk momo. The polk's are rather large for a 6.5 and they still fit quite well. Whatever you end up with, invest in some dynamat. Our doors were not designed for the best sound quality.
so it there is some trick? someone please let me know. If someone has an extra I would appreciate that as well.
Where can I find those stickers with the cougar symbols