The hissing I have been hearing every time I press the brakes has been found. I pulled the under dash cover and could clearly hear the hiss coming from the power booster. I have been having no braking issues. Does this sound right? I thought that if the booster went out I would have trouble braking. Any tricks to changing this thing out?
By "acting up" I mean not consistently working. It's been on my list to check. We just finished building our first house and I was the contractor - so I have been a little overwhelmed and busy. I can hear a vacuum leak every time I press the brake pedal - coming from inside. It sounded like it was coming from the driver fender area. I recently read your experience with your cruise. No fun!
What am I looking at? Is that the cruise? power booster? Would I hear it leaking inside the car? Replace or repair option? Preferred way to get at it? Any tricks?
88 Cougar, 5.0, HO Intake, 58k orig miles. I have started getting a vacuum hiss when I press the brakes. It seems to be coming from the driver's side fender/floorboard area. I am guessing that I have some sort of check valve going out out. This sound familiar to anybody? What is it and how do I fix it?
Thanks, y'all. That's what I needed. I would normally have taken them off but anything I ask for will have to be ordered - sight unseen. These part #s will get it done.
I need to replace the molded heater hoses (both coming from the core) on my 88 5.0. My shop manual shows one having the temperature control unit inline - but mine is on the manifold. I'm having trouble getting the right part #'s. Most are 5/8" 90 degrees or cut to fit but these replacements need to bend 4 or 5 different ways. I can get the Ford # off of one of the hoses (same # as in the shop manual) but not the other.
Does anyone have a good resource to get the right part the first time?
Here are the basics - 88 Cougar w/5.0 (HO) loaded w/digital dash
I have started getting a buzz coming from behind the dash. It becomes audible at around 35mph and increases in intensity as the speed increases.
It is not the radio. It is not a vibration. It has the sound of electrical arcing. It sounds like it is just on the other side of the digital dash.
Two problems that I have recently had are the cruise control and the low oil lamp. The low oil lamp I believe to be a relay as the switch and the oil level are fine. The cruise began acting up then just quit. I mention these here in case ther might be some relation between the buzz and these two items.
Believe it or not I can't find bolts that are long enough. The bolts that I found that were the right length had the threading stop too soon and hung on the intake.
After swapping out the upper intake on my 5.0 I have been very pleased with the increase in performance and power but have a nagging EGR problem. I continue to pull a code #34 (I was pulling this before the swap, too). I have replaced the TPS and the EVP sensors and now get an exhaust smell. Could it be related to the new EVP? When I swapped in the HO I used the furnished EGR spacer but used the EGR valve from my SO. Are there HO specific parts that I should use here? And if so, how do I get the numbers? The parts stores just see 5.0.
Also, does anyone know where I can get the longer upper intake bolts to accomodate the phenolic spacer?
MY 86 is missing really bad every time i leave a stop after it warms up a little. the timing is on i just but new plugs in the wirs are only a few months old.
the cat was clogged and i didnt know it for about 4 days after it stated running like . i cut it out and it still runs like .
i cant leave a stop without it studering and looking like an idiot.
if i floor it it will go but i dont like doing that.
when i am coasting the trans jumps around cause it doesnt now when to shift and the car shakes really bad.
the wires are on the right numbers.
any ideas?
A few things to look for:
Check your distributor for cracks and that the wires are well connected. Take a spray bottle with water and spray the cap and wires while it's running. Continue spraying each wire to its full length. If there is no stuttering you can assume that you have eliminated the cap and wires as being the problem. If you get stuttering you have found the location of a problem.
Take a propane torch (unlit!) and spray around all of the vacuum/intake connections. If you get a real change in speed you have found the location of a vacuum leak.
Since your cat was backed up you may have a lot of carbon buildup in the intake/EGR/etc. Try using some Seafoam pulled in through the brake booster line. Let it set for 10-20 minutes then crank it up. You should get a lot of white smoke.
You may have to pull the plugs and look to see if they are already fouled due to the poor running.
Wait a second. You said that the "Check Oil" light was coming on, right? Are you talking about the red light in the upper right corner of the instrument cluster? If so, the oil level sensor is responsible for that. That sensor is located in the oil pan itself. You can see it plugged into the driver's side of the pan if you look under the car. It may just need replacement. It usually makes the light come on if the oil is one quart low or more.
Thanks. That's the beast. I'll be checking that this evening.
It hasn't happened in a couple of days now. Thanks for the tips. I seem to remember having the smaller unit with the resistor - I have a full digital dash.
Any idea where I can find the 2 longer upper intake bolts?