i think the o2 sensors are an extremly important part of the sefi system. The computer needs communication from every input sensor in order to properly run the engine. It's not like retro fitting an old school carbureted engine with aftermarket fuel injection....where you can choose not to use o2 sensors if you want. Don't the headers have a spot for the o2 sensors? The following is an excellent website to read and understand fuel injection: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/
i would gather codes and add the o2's. But that's just me, though. In the past year on this forum i've learned enough to do basic trouble shooting. I am in no way an expert.....yet. In fact it feels strange chiming with advice cause all i ever do here is ask questions.......
About the cam question, ....do your pistons have valve reliefs in them? or are they just dished ( slightly counterbored). Must have valve reliefs to go with any cam greater lifting than a stock HO. ( and of course as was already stated you don't have a roller block so flat tappets only!) There is only one sure fire pushrod suggestion ... MEASURE for the length you need by using an adjustable pushrod and bottoming your lifters at 0.00" lift on that particular valve. Chiltons engine building books have simple step by step.
When porting or grinding iron castings in general I like a " double cut carbide burr", typically a pear shaped or elliptical. Just in case you don't know, double cut refers to the cross hatched looking cutters vs. the single cuts that have 1 set of parallel helical cutting edges. Double cuts don't load up with " sticky" or cloggy materials, such as iron aluminum, & copper. A slight drawback is they are slightly harder to control, but not enough to change my mind about them. Secondly, about the porting, mainly just blend the 2 surfaces with a slight champfer at each, & yes use the bolt holes for alignment. I like to take a big fat sharpie marker, trace the gasket on the exposed metal and just try for about a 30 - 45 degree champfer uniformly around the port of each ( 1/16" @ 30 -45/ 1/8" @ 30-45). Stay away from the inside of each component though 'cause it's really easy to make turbulance and create an imbalance of the air flow.
Master overhaul will do it, & ALWAYS put in a new or refurbished torque converter at over haul-too many good reasons why to list. And yes it's the internal friction materials that "burn up". Are you considering doing the rebuild yourself?
Well I'm a professional machinist / engine builder and what's obvious to me is that attention to detail EVERY TIME on EVERY part makes long lasting consistent engines that don't leave you standing there looking at it wondering what you halfassed that's causing the problem. Lifters stick more often than people may realize especially used ones at ambient temperature vs operating temp where they will free up. The torque spec. ( 25 ft/lbs) puts the max clamp load on the rocker that the threads in the head will produce, if you're not completely bottomed out you might not be getting that clamp force. Better to " over think" once than to do the job over again after scattering some top end parts. If you're in a hurry... don't do the job 'til you have time to do it right.
It'll be better than the stock cam with the same heads ( especially the mid range.. like when your cruisin' & then romp on it)BUThe won't see the same improvements at the top end since the heads are stifling the aspiration. My opinion- the E6s suk- should've been the 1st mod, especially from an assembly POV.Matter of fact, I wouldn't even take the time to tear down to do the cam swap until I had the heads E7s or better yet GT40s or Y303s.
WHOA! If a guy asks then ... answer. First off the lifters are hydraulic rollers. Now, are you putting the same heads pushrods etc. back in? If so then.... Turn the crank to TDC #1 ( that's 0 degrees on the dampener with the distributer rotor pointing at the #1position) From this point torque your#1 intake & exhaust,#7 int., #5 exh.,#8 int. & #4 exh. Then, rotate the the crank 1 full revolution, and torque the#5 int,#2 exh., #4 int. exh.. Now rotate the crank another 90 degrees & torque the #2 & #3 int. , & the #7 & #3 exh. This is for the stock SO engine firing order, NOT THE H.O.! Now one more thing, that you will not need if you are using all of the original parts, or the stock length pushrods, THERE ARE shim kits available that raise the seat of your fulcrums ( what your rockers sit on) particularly with roller rockers. These can be used in addition to or instead of different length pushrods. Good luck, and just be certain you are at TDC on the intake stroke #1 ( and 1 revolution out- hence check where your distributor's rotor is pointing! better be the #1! ) If you're running the H.O. firing order let me know and I'll getcha the torquing order for it. LATER!
Well, then just tell them to take it to 14 degrees. That's where I'm at and I like it, so... and heck if it pings... buy a timing light, bump it back incrementally until it doesn't ping anymore and return the darn thing!
Go with the edlebrock. 2 out of 2 of close personal friends have switched to it after buying the cobras, 1 is on a supercharged lincoln, the other was in an 89 f150. ( the latter cobra intake is for sale consequently!)And both are quite satisfied with the improved intake.
PAUL, what I was talkin' about was the keyways in the crank sprocket...retard the crank/advance the crank...retard crank = advance to cam and visa versa...so to advance this sprocket = retarded timing = all upper end. Sorry I didn't clarify.And YES if you advance the timing via retarding the crank the gains are in the lower R's.
Well, I found one still in a cam, but since I'm outta gas in my torches I can't heat it up to try & get it- Gonna get gas after the holiday. The pin diameter is .312" = 5/16, & I know the Lowes here has some. I did smell ( since I tried a lighter) what seemed to be loctite on the pin so heat otta do it. Sux that cam didn't come with one though.Probably like to get this done over X-mas break, huh? About what...I forget who said it...that other guy said about your distributor just line your rotor up with the # 1 on the cap & note where that is in relation to the 2 spring clips that hold the cap on and install it so the rotor winds up there. Though you will probably have to start feeding it in the hole with the rotor 30-45 degrees counterclockwise from there since the gear is helical and the shaft will rotate as you mesh the teeth and push it in. This will be close enough to start the vehicle and then immediately Time it with a light.-no big deal.
Bottom end will still be there, but if you can grab up an 8.8 outta T-bo coupe It'll be better! About that dowel pin...The cams I've got came with their own pre-installed...? but you can always just get a piece of TGP ( turned ground polished) round stock that diameter at a metal yard or possibly even like a lowes or somethin'. Maybe a parts store would even have it. You can also try heating up the metal around the pin and try pulling it like that, don't heat directly on the pin, heat around it to swell the bore it's seated in. PS- I'll go to the garage right now & if I can find one I'll mail it to you for $50........................Nah, just kiddin' If I've got 1 you can have it, but my garages are pretty messy.I'll let you know.
Good, cuz I just looked at an old Timing set that was factory original and the marks are all gone!-worn off by the chain. BTW- that's an enormous amount of slack- I bet it pinged when you mashed it-at least at first! Make sure you use assy. lube ( love that abreviation!)- on all the lobes and break in the engine with regular mineral oil- not synthetic, "cause the synth. won't mix with the lube, as the mineral oil has natural solvents in it that will break down and absorb the lube, where as the synth. will just chunk it up. good luck, & you'll notice a definate improvement, especially in the upper RPMs-where our cars usually flatten out and just make noise.
Hope that helps, if not I'll get extra detailed, but it ain't hard. That "SHARPIE" line you spoke of is an oiling groove for the thrust washer. Also, you can pick up a B&M shift improver kit for under $60, and put it in yourself easily if you have a drill. The choices will be RV towing, & street/strip, go street strip.PS- I hope you got a new Timing set, since they go for like $50-$60, and it'll never be more convenient to do it! Oh, just thought of somethin' I didn't mention above, to find TDC of #1 quickly, just slide your balancer back on the crank till the keyway is engaged, then rotate 'till "0" on the dampener lines up with your pointer on the block, make sure it's 0, not 10!
