Only vacuum line I’ve replaced was the source line, but there appear to be no other leaks.
As far as the tach goes, I do have the digital tach, that is what I’m basing this on, and now I feel like a dummy for being concerned since I’ve always known that period Fords have inaccurate induction tachs; makes me wonder how that affects timing advance and other ECU functions.
If it’s reading high at low RPM, could it also be reading low at high RPM? When it reads 5k (all the redline bars from 5 to 6 light up at the same time) I let off the pedal to upshift, figuring the AOD is waiting too long. Waiting for the upshift at WOT feels like it’s left the power band and is slower.
For as long as I’ve owned my ’87 5.0 TB, it’s idled at or just below 1000 RPM. I believe it should be closer to 600, no? I’ve replaced the IAC, EGR valve, and TPS. The only current error code is an intermittent KOER 44 (Thermactor system inoperative (cyl 1-4)). After replacing the above (while batter disconnected), it tried to idle down and seemed to be fine for several seconds at 400-600 according to the tach with a nice loping sound, but then fluctuated back up during a few drives and seems to have decided back on 800-1000 again.
It’s not a huge issue but I imagine fixing it could improve performance and MPG slightly.
Also, cold starts idle at 2200 for about 10-20 seconds; longer than I would like but I just deal with waiting before setitng off. Is this normal?
My stock 5.0 is running fine but wanting more response I decided to advance the base timing by twisting the distributor clockwise. Fuel tank was full of mostly premium for this, about 1/3 leftover regular, with Gumput injector cleaner that claimed to boost octane conveniently thrown in.
I don't have a timing light and thought I could still see a mark indicating 15°. Tested it out in the hills around me and had to back it off after hearing knock. Then back it off more. And more. And back to base.
I noticed the throttle response was a lot better when advanced and seemed to have more torque to power it through my AOD that shifts early, until of course I gave it more throttle. I thought these were supposed to be fine with advancing the timing, sometimes without even running premium? Or is that just for the Mustang which has different pistons?
I pulled a failing Standard Motor Products module out of my 5.0 when it failed, 10 years after I bought the car (dunno when it was put in but I put 150+k on it). When I went to the parts store ready to pay $100+ for a Motorcraft, they convinced me anybody that says the $50 STP one won't last more than a year is a FoMoCo fanboy and I walked out with a cheap STP module instead of ordering a good one. Failed a year later.
I replaced it with a $120ish Echelon unit from AutoZone. Apparently it's also made by STP but supposedly their expensive ones are better… I won't know until early 2018, the 1 year mark. Hope that helps.
I took it to a shop for diagnostics, since I don’t trust myself to accurately test with a multimeter. They narrowed it down to either the ignition module or the pickup sensor in the dizzy. I just now replaced the ICM and the tach reads accurately and it doesn’t die, yet now there’s sputtering under load. Giving more throttle at low RPMs causes it, and with it floored it starts struggling to climb past about 4k. My guess was bad spark plugs or wires (I haven’t changed them in 3 years and drive a lot), but when I checked codes, the KOEO results were fine but the KOER results are weird. It varies every time I test. The blips for cylinder count are either missing, or too few. I tried a cylinder balance test and it showed 99 twice. WTF?
I changed the cap and rotor (since they were way too old) and now, the car runs for a minute or sometimes more before dying and refusing to start for a few minutes. I did get a new error code from memory: 18 loss of ignition signal. This happened as soon as I changed the cap and rotor.
It’s worth mentioning that several months ago the water pump went out and sprayed coolant all over the TFI module and connectors.
Nope, didn’t take a picture before returning it. I’m assuming the parts store gave me the wrong one, since they do not seem to have their shiznit together. Before I buy another from a different chain, I was wondering if there could be something I missed. Given the fan blade holes are aligned on the old and new fans, I think not.
I’ll check again in total darkness for the spark jump. The ignition coil is over a decade old too. The sound does seem to come from the driver side, but hard to isolate to the coil. Perhaps bad cap or rotor?
If it was just bad plugs and wires, why would that cause the tach to wiggle and read high?
I’ve got an ’87 5.0, all stock (when I refer to the tach it’s in the stock digital dash).
For weeks I’ve been dealing with what feels like constant partial misfires, becoming more severe with more load. With increased throttle, but not enough for a downshift, it seems like total misses, especially when going up a hill. This happens at all RPMs, and the tach fluctuates a few hundered RPM and reads noticeably higher than it should – especially at higher RPMs. There’s an audible ticking sound that increases with RPM when this happens, too.
Sometimes after starting the car cold, everything runs fine for the first 3 to 15 minutes of driving. Sometimes it happens with the first cold start of the day.
I haven’t changed the plugs and wires in about 3 years, but replaced the TFI module less than a year ago. When that happened, I got trouble codes for missing PIP signal and bad TFI module. This time, I have not gotten any codes other than the 34 that I’ve had for years for the EGR sensor.
Because of the tach flux and ticking sound when this happens, I visually looked for a spark jumping to a ground from the plug and coil wires, but didn’t see any. Any tips?
So the fan clutch I bought does not fit the Mustang fan blade, nor the old fan blade. I returned it to O’Rielly’s but do you think they just have the wrong part fitment in their catalog? If I was smart I would have not thrown the bad clutch out, so I could see if the holes line up with the new one.
I’ll go with the standard duty clutch – it worked fine, and with a stock engine every HP counts. If the Mustang fan proves too much for it to handle, then I get to say 'you told me so’ :p
Quote from: Haystack;459358
...Also make sure the thermo stat is a 190° f. Lots of guys throw cooler ones in, just not worth it, that will make it take much longer for the heat to come on.
Would a cooler thermostat throw a code? I haven’t had any codes relating to that, but when I bought the car the guy said there was a code indicating the thermo was stuck open and replaced it. It warms up eventually, and definitely quicker than a car with one stuck open, but not as fast as I would think it should.
O’Reilly has a fan with that party number, and one PN 2723, both of which are branded “Murray Temperature Control” but otherwise appear identical. I’ve already bought 2723 – it was the same price as the heavy duty one you linked on Amazon. Is it the same manufacturer just rebranded? If I’m able to return the one I bought and order the Hayden 2783, I would do that if Murry as a junk brand (it came in an unlabeled white box). But why go with a 90% engagement? The clutch and fan I just took out already sounded like an airplane.
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For the fan itself, upgrade to a 9 blade for a Fox Mustang. The center hub is smaller, but blades are the same size so it's actually a smidge smaller in overall diameter, but doesn't prove to be an issue.
Also I have not installed the fan or shroud, but still need to drive. The temp around here has been around 45°. Would I cause damage driving without a fan if I shut the engine off when at a stoplight for more than 30 seconds?
The fan clutch on my ’87 5.0 seized, and while changing it, I realized a blade on the plastic radiator fan looks like it’s about to fly off. I believe it needs replaced, but can’t find OEM replacement. What I pulled out is an original Ford fan, E65E-8600-AA. I can’t find that part number online, so have some questions about the best thing to replace it with.
Is E65E-8600-AA the stock fan for this car? The blades are not in a symmetrical pattern; it looks as if two had not been added to the design.
Would a fan for a Mustang or other higher-output engine fit, without being too powerful? I do not have overheating issues with my stock non-HO engine; in fact I think it takes too long to warm up. I don't want a higher-duty fan sapping power.
Are the $30-40 generic metal flex fans any good? I have read mixed reviews on Mustang, Explorer, and truck forums, mostly negative, especially on Flex-a-Lite.
Is there an inexpensive electric fan conversion kit that’s worth it? I want to only spend enough to replace the amount of cooling I had (with stock fan I was able to go 90 MPH up a 2 mile long very steep desert hill on a 100°+ day, with my A/C on despite signs at the bottom warning to turn A/C off to prevent radiator boil over, without the temp gauge rising). However, if there is a benefit to switching to electric and it can be done for about $100, I might do that. How much horsepower might it free up?
