Yes, the left front turn signal is wonky, horn button has a broken tab, dash is cracked (both common problems), seats are faded but the car is 32 years old. It must of seen a lot of sun exposure. When I bought my 88 back in 2001, the dash was cracked and the seats were faded. Extensive junkyard searches yielded a crack free dash which is very hard to find, I bet 90-95% of the cars I looked at had a cracked dash, regardless of color especially if the car had been there any length of time because face it, it’s sitting in the sun every day. Finally found a red one that was pristine and have always used a windshield shade to protect it if the car was outside. My car is a sunny day only ride and lives in a garage when not being driven. I located some seats from a car that saw a lot of garage time. I had to replace my horn button as well somewhere down the line.
After 19 years it’s time to let go of my beloved car. I’m retired and want to start traveling the country in my rv and I don’t want this wonderful car just sitting around. Here’s a rundown on my 1988 Thunderbird “Super Coupe”: Car has original metallic silver paint, except for the roof which had tp be repainted due to a shop damaging it while working on the car. Red interior, crack-free dash, electronic climate control, dual 8 way power seats, p/s, p/b, p/w, power door locks, power sun/moon roof, power antenna, automatic lights, tilt wheel, rear window defroster, custom made billet “Super Coupe” door badges. Chin spoiler from (2003)Mach 1 Mustang, 3.73 rear axle recently rebuilt, new seals, bearings posi unit. King Cobra clutch, Ford clutch quadrant with firewall adjuster, T-5 transmission with Steeda Tri-ax shifter Engine: 5.0 out of an 86 Mustang GT with the following enhancements: Conical air filter in front fender well, 90 mm Lightning mass air meter, Anderson Ford “Power Pipe”, polished Vortech V-2 (S-trim) supercharger, polished “Professional Products” 75 mm throttle body, polished Edelbrock Performer II upper and lower intakes,Edelbrock Performer aluminum cylinder heads with o-ring grooves and matching head gaskets, Comp Cams 1.6 ratio stud mount roller rockers, ARP head studs, hardened push rods and guide plates, Ford F-303 blower cam, double roller timing chain, Edelbrock high flow water pump, Ford 42 lb. fuel injectors, forged flat top pistons with valve reliefs, windage tray, Melling high volume oil pump, ATI “super damper”, Ford high flow aluminum radiator, Walbro 255 liter/hour high pressure fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, MSD 6AL ignition box with Blaster coil, MSD cap, rotor, Ford 8.5 mm wires, 93 Cobra computer with custom tune SCT piggyback chip, custom computer and fuel injector harnesses from Windsor-Fox Performance, MAC short tube headers, high flow cat h-pipe, Flowpath lers. Suspension: lowered with Koni Sport springs, Koni adjustable shocks and struts, Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates, Maximum Motorsports rear lower control arms, boxed upper control arms, welded in subframe connectors, 5 lug conversion using 94 Mustang spindles and rear axles, Cobra 13” front brakes, 94 Mustang rear disc brakes, 17 x 8 Cobra wheels (97), Hankook Ventus V12 EVO 245/45ZR17 tires. Car made 446 rear wheel horsepower and 409 lb/ft of torque on a Dynapak chassis dynomometer. $12,000
Try pulling up on the e-brake pedal after you have released it. The switch for this is on the driver’s side above the kick panel and e-brake pedal. I had this happen to me once and if I recall, the brake pedal was sagging just enough to trigger the switch. I believe the switch position is slightly adjustable.
I took my pictures on my iPad and uploaded them here, I think that may be the problem. I’ll see if my son can help me figure it out or acquire some editing software. When I was still working, my computer was windows based and I knew how to edit such things, but Apple products kind of confuse me on occasion. Darren, thanks for the input/advice. Rick
Thanks Rick. It's been a real challenge. How come your car is upside down?
I don’t know why the picture loaded upside down, I can’t seem to figure out how to rotate it. I asked for help as I’m not very computer savvy but no one offered help, so it sits on its roof!
Does your car have a sunroof? There are drain lines from around the roof opening and they run down through the A pillar I believe. If clogged or split, they could be the culprit.
I finally figured out how to edit my signature and add a picture to it as well as an avatar but they are 180 degrees out, can’t seem to figure that out now. Any suggestions on how to flip my images over? Thanks, Rick
Back in 2002 when I was looking to convert a Turbo Coupe into a 5.0 powered car, there wasn’t a lot of info available for the swap and I wasn’t too sure about wiring it myself. I found a company called Windsor-Fox that specialized in making custom wiring harnesses to swap a 5.0 into just about any vehicle. I bought the main computer and a fuel injector harness from them. One of the first cars the company owner, Ed Marsh did was his wife’s Turbo Coupe on which he had done a 5 lug conversion and he had used 97 Cobra wheels, which when I saw them, I put them at the top of my list of desirable wheels for when i would get around to doing a 5 lug conversion. At that time, guys with Cobras we’re getting rid of the stock wheels for aftermarket styles, score for me! Chuck Warren has some early versions of these on his 83. Mine are off a 97 which have the 5 holes painted a dark gray while the early ones 94-95(?) the holes weren’t painted. Back then, there were a few magazine articles about Ed, his company and his converted Turbo Coupe, different car than his wife’s. There used to be pictures of his T/C on the NATO website. Ed has since passed away and I believe his company is now defunct. Their harnesses were high quality and they came with very a detailed installation manual. My car started right up and ran great right after I completed all the swap work.
