My 87 XR7 with the HO starts great, comes off high idle within 10 seconds and idles very choppy (like it has a big cam)and seems like it would like to stall until it warms up, then it idles pretty smooth. Is there likely a sensor gone bad or what? I just reset the idle speed and adjusted/checked the TPS. I have checked for vacuum leaks and checked for codes (nothing). Replaced my injectors with some from a friend with no change and installed new spark-plugs. It is just a cold idle problem that leads me to believe something electronic is not right(i.e. not telling the PCM that the car isn't warm yet). O2 sensors? ECT sensor? Suggestions?? Tests? :canada:
When did you snap those pics? The one I linked was from last Saturday. I wasn't there when the bird was but I went for the "run what ya brung" on Saturday night.
I've got an 87 XR7 with 3.73s and an aod. I'm using a 21 tooth speedo driven gear and have been told that I must have the 8 tooth drive gear. I will be removing the tranny tailstock to replace the output shaft bushing and was wondering if it was possible to change to the 7 tooth drive gear while I have it apart. If so what is involved? :canada:
I've been surfing and can't find any good info on my 1991 extended cab 4X4 GMC. specifically I'm trying to diagnose an intermittant a/c problem and wiring diagrams would help. ( It won't work for a year then it'll work for 2 months :disappoin )
A point in the right direction would be appreciated.
Is anyone surprised that the American government has decided to IGNORE a NAFTA ruling stating that they are WRONG in their assertion that Canadian Softwood lumber is unfairly subsidized? Not me.
As usual they just say "we don't need to play by the rules, we'll just make our own rules". Once again the US gov't can't admit defeat. The world is watching.
Canada produces more oil than it consumes, so I say let's cut 'em off and see if that dumb f##k in the white house (you know, the one we burned in the war of 1812 ) attacks an "ally" over oil. I feel sorry for the majority of Americans who dissapprove of Dubya but have to have the world think they are all just like him.
August 2005 world prices Nation City Price in USD Regular/Gallon Netherlands Amsterdam $6.48 Norway Oslo $6.27 Italy Milan $5.96 Denmark Copenhagen $5.93 Belgium Brussels $5.91 Sweden Stockholm $5.80 United Kingdom London $5.79 Germany Frankfurt $5.57 France Paris $5.54 Portugal Lisbon $5.35 Hungary Budapest $4.94 Luxembourg $4.82 Croatia Zagreb $4.81 Ireland Dublin $4.78 Switzerland Geneva $4.74 Spain Madrid $4.55 puppiesan Tokyo $4.24 Czech Republic Prague $4.19 Romania Bucharest $4.09 Andorra $4.08 Estonia Tallinn $3.62 Bulgaria Sofia $3.52 Brazil Brasilia $3.12 Cuba Havana $3.03 Taiwan Taipei $2.84 Lebanon Beirut $2.63 South Africa Johannesburg $2.62 Nicaragua Managua $2.61 Panama Panama City $2.19 Russia Moscow $2.10 Puerto Rico San Juan $1.74 Saudi Arabia Riyadh $0.91 Kuwait Kuwait City $0.78 Egypt Cairo $0.65 Nigeria Lagos $0.38 Venezuela Caracas $0.12
Where exactly is this show? West Michigan is kinda vague and the site doesn't have a good map. Maybe post a better map or distances from major cities (Detroit?) :canada:
When the armature in my alternator went bad, it caused the brushes to bounce (as explained by my auto-electric repair guy), causing intermittent loss of feed from the alternator. Never had a low battery problem but the beeping was driving me nuts (on the highway for an hour when this happened). A fresh alternator (IIRC he rebuilt it) cured the problem.
BTW - for good measure clean all battery terminals, solenoid terminals and chassis grounds as well as your starter connectins. Apply dielectric grease to all the above. This may or may not be related to your problem but in my experience, 20 yr old electrical connections, especially exposed to the weather, can wreak havoc on your sanity. Plus ensuring full voltage to your electronics never hurt idle quality and my dash function improved dramatically when I did this. (my oil pressure read a false "HIGH") Best of luck. :canada:
I've got an '87 AOD that has started squeaking at the very back of the transmission. It sounds like "chirpchirpchirpchirp...". I jacked the car up because I thought it was a u-joint but it's not. I can move the trans yoke up and down a little - should I be able to do this at all? It isn't leaking at all. Would this be a bad bearing? Can the tailstock come off with the trans still in the car? Will I have to drain the fluid first or is there another seal (I'm assuming there is) on the splined shaft in the tranny? Lastly, if this is a bad bearing, is it something I can change at home or should I take my tailstock to a shop with a press?