Skip to main content ↑ ↓

Messages

This section allows you to view all Messages made by this member. Note that you can only see Messages made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Driverguy

2
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
Also, further to the question about how I deleted the smog system, I removed the steel pipe to the back of the cylinder heads, cleaned out the threads the best i could with a 5/8 tap and brake clean, and plugged the holes with bolts and high heat thread sealant.  I removed the pump/bracketry, and shortened the serpentine belt.  I removed the hoses and air diverter solenoids, but I did NOT disconnect the 2 vacuum solenoids on the cowl behind the strut tower; I left them plugged into their harnesses, left the vacuum lines connected, and simply capped off the lines that used to go to the air diverter solenoids.  I assumed it would be better to leave them plugged in and connected to vacuum, so the computer didn't register them as missing/defective, was I wrong?
3
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
Sorry I've been absent from this thread for the last few months, been caught up in another project.

I decided to test my exhaust/cats/O2 sensor theory a few weeks ago, mostly because I wanted to upgrade anyway.  I put headers on, 2 high-flow cats, 2 new O2 sensors, and an X-pipe, and took out each of my plugs, cleaned off the fouling, and re-installed.  Also disconnected the battery for a few days so the computer could reset itself. 

Ran the car for about 20 minutes today; for the first 10 minutes it ran fine, then it started spitting, which I could hear easily because I don't have lers on yet.  Then, a few minutes later, it started surging again.  No CEL, and it didn't stall, but still surging nearly as bad as before. 

My theory now is that it was still running rich, and took 10 minutes to foul up the plugs again and start really running poorly again.

My next ideas are to use brake clean/carb cleaner to test for vacuum leaks (although I checked the vacuum pressure, why not try anyways), and change plug wires (I put a high-end MSD coil on it last year to try to solve the problem, but i still have stock motorcraft 7mm wires, perhaps they are old and/or can't handle the hot spark from the uprated coil)

I'm hearing the MAP sensor come up often in your recent replies, is it something I should consider testing/replacing?
4
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
waited quite a while after the '4', nothing followed.  Also it seems that the engine was running super high idle when i had the test jumper hooked up, because when i unplugged it, the idle dove.

Probably related, not only is the exhaust reeking of fuel and black, but it's also now spewing out black condensation that's staining my garage and driveway.  I have it on good authority that my cat is clogged up, and now its fouled my O2 sensors and dumping even more fuel in.  The fact that I removed the smog system probably accented the problem. 
5
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
Did the test again...

KOEOFF - 11

MEMORY - 91
                  - 41

KOER - 4

Not sure why last time i got so many engine running codes...also some of the old memory codes must have been forced out, because the 91 and 41 codes were stored 3 times each.

7
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
measured vacuum at the vacuum distribution block.  the injector o rings were lubed, yes.  if the vacuum leak is small enough that I am still getting a 20lb reading, could that really be attributing to such harsh idle consequences, and overfueling?  I'm leaning toward o2 sensor/failure as Thunderjet suggested...
8
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
Sorry for the delay, I just checked my codes, as the light came on briefly the other night while driving.  Unlike OBD2 codes, it seems that OBD1 codes are stored after the key is shut off, so the CEL does not come back on again?  I ran the codes, both with key on engine off, and key on engine running, and got several stored codes;

11
91 - No oxygen sensor switching detected
41 - Oxygen sensor circuit indicates system always lean
21 - Engine coolant temperature (ECT) out of self-test range
42 - Oxygen sensor circuit indicates system always rich
92 - Shift solenoid circuit failure
18 - Ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) circuit failure

code 92 i can attribute to the time i accidentally knocked off my kickdown cable a few weeks back.  Also, I can say the car is running SUPER rich; the exhaust smells like shiznit, and it's been getting worse, it's embarrassing now.  I'm pretty sure the bad mixture is causing the idle surge, rather than the IAC or TPS, I just dont know whats attributing the bad mixture.  Could it be bad O2 sensors, since 3 codes have to do with oxygen sensing?

A nagging guy at my shop says my smog pump delete is causing all this problem, but I really don't understand how it could be, since I left no vacuum leaks, and did not remove any electrical connectors or sensors.
9
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
checked codes, none stored, CEL isn't on.  Noticed that the exhaust odor is more pungent than usual, and quite a lot of water/carbon came out of the tailpipes yesterday when i had it running/revved it up in the driveway.  Wondering if maybe the converter is getting clogged up, and my removal of the smog system didnt help things
12
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
Quote from: Aerocoupe – on
What is your base timing set at?  Have you replaced the cap rotors and plugs?  One way to check the plug wires it to start the car at night in a dark dark place.  Look under the hood for sparking from the plug wires.  Have you check the EGR for it being plugged up?  Mine used to get plugged with carbon and cause issues.

One last thing is if you are unsure of the balancer I would find TDC on the motor using a piston stop device and see if the pointer is really at 0 deg.  My dad taught me how to make one out of an old spark plug.  Its in this thread on Post #34:

https://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/index.php?topic=34313.msg405533#msg405533
Plugs, wires and cap look to be in good shape upon inspection, i suspect they were recently changed before I purchased the car 2 years ago.  I set the timing as per the timing instructions on the fan shroud decal, 10 degrees I believe.  I checked the EGR for function, as well as the egr solenoid.  I could verify TDC, im just not really sure that would be a problem since the car runs just fine save for idle.  I could check for arcing from the plug wires next time im out at night...I was thinking of replacing the wires anyway for vanity, perhaps now theres another reason to change them, i dont know
13
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
Ran test, delayed because the fuel pressure gauge I was using malfunctioned, had to wait for a new one to be ordered.  19.5 psi on ignition, 32psi at idle, spikes to 34psi at 2000rpm, then returns immediately to 30, and idling with the regulator vacuum line unplugged, its at 40PSI.  Mustang forums seem to idicate that this is okay, but my haynes manual says i should be looking at 40 PSI, even though it does not state under what cirspoogestances that PSI should be had.
14
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
I replaced the injectors over the winter, just started really driving it now that the weather is better.  The bucking and hesitation is GONE, and I have great throttle response.  BUT, now I have a serious idle surge problem.  I checked the EGR and EGR solenoid for issues, they were both fine.  I replaced the TPS and followed the idle reset procedure to properly calibrate it, no change.  I made sure the timing was still set at factory recommendation.  I checked for vacuum leaks/breaks.  Engine light is NOT on. 

I should add, while I had the intake off to change the injectors, I also deleted the smog pump, but NOT the egr.  I don't know if this would cause idle issues.  I DID leave the smog solenoids connected to the harness to avoid an engine light.

Also, I made sure I bought 14LB injectors, under your advisp00get.  I bought F47E-A2E replacements, 'Check fit' menu said it was correct for 1988 cougar, and description said it fits ford 5.0.  BUT, the injectors I removed, 6 of them were stamped E67E-B4B, and the other 2 were a different style/housing, part number suggested they were for a Jaguar...

Did I put the wrong injectors in?  Did I ruin the Idle fuel/air ratio removing the smog tube?  Or is there something else I need to look into?  I'm very happy i have driveability back; the car does perform better, but it is bothersome having to rev it up at stop lights, and sometimes it takes 2 tries to start it up now.