The DA1 is tuneable. Either ECU will work for you but the DA1 will add a little umpf since it's programed timing is based on the slightly better E7 heads, not likely enough to get excited over.
It's TC so no solenoid. Supposed to have a large hose from canister to airbox. If you ditched the airbox you are only able vent as pressure builds. Check the vent line from the tank. They have been known to gunk up and clog.
The short answer is yes it will likely suffice. But don't think of the H pipe as a second exhaust pipe. If it were a Y or X your absolutely correct. The H works more like a pulse dampener to control sound.
The long answer is much more involved and I think your going to choke the engine at high load and rpm. I came across this site while looking for flow rates of different diameter pipes and it saves me alot of typing. I think it will pretty much answer most of your questions. http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-ler-size-pipe-diameter/
You can also use Mustang stuff. It was a long time ago when I did it so I don't remember if had to add legnth to the extension tubes (H to ler) in addition to adding legnth to the tails. Otherwise it was bolt on. I have since reverted to a 3" single for my turbo application.
I think most have abandoned those shocks since replacements are not available. I believe each quarter turn of the adjuster in the stem changed between normal and firm. You could make up some manual s or source the actuators and wire them up to a switch. I don't know if that will work since you won't know where to stop.
Is this the same bar that supports the e-brake cable? I have not looked at other Birds/Cougars but my TC has the passenger ebrake cable tucked and clipped into a bar across the car from the driver side.
I went back and re-read your posts.....I don't want to make assumptions and .you don't comment on how it runs under the boost conditions you describe. Does it actually feel down on powert? Have you hooked up a different guage to see if they agree? What's the possibility everything is fine and your dealing with a guage issue?
It is possible but not likely to be the turbine housing. To get the wooosh you describe, you would need alot of back pressure after the turbo. If anything it could be between the head and turbo including your wastgate ...this is where back pressure is usually highest. I think is should sound more like an exhaust leak than a wooosh. As a precaution...make sure everything is tight. Maybe even take the wastegate apart and clean it up so you can inspect the diaphragm.
I hate that you did all that work and didn't find a fix......did you try eliminating the BOV yet?
Ok thanks for entertaining my questions.....it is definitely sounding alot like a boost leak. Since you have done the basic checks I suspect the BOV is the possible culprit. I know you replaced it but if possible try a different vac source preferably directly off the intake. If possible I would remove it completely and test again. If you don't get proper balance on the valve, boost will force it open. The only other thing that comes to mind, not likely but is a possible cracked turbine housing that's opening up as it heats under boost.
If you have a small air compressor you can make a pressure testing cap with a coupler, plumbing cap and a Barb fitting to attach directly to the snout of the turbo. I don't think the shop vac will reveal anything since It can't make pressure.
Ahhhhhh that makes your first post so much clearer.....I almost feel stupid lol.
Anyway.....have you tied the factory BCS into the system? This sounds alot like how the BCS controls boost when your set the fuel switch in regular mode. What spring PSI you running in the wastegate?
As for the oil.....are you talking about the nose piece.....I see your running a non stock turbo....I wasn't sure if your still using that piece .....that's usually where the valve cover breather attaches and would be the only source for oil to get in. If we are talking about the same thing..I don't recall a gasket on the stock set up.
This hard to put my head around. I don't understand how an engine can rev up, build boost and stall with increasing throttle movement. It might bog down but it shouldn't stall. A boost leak will cause a rich condition....do you have a wideband? I believe these things are programed to Max out around 11.3 at high loads. At 1-5 psi I would guess you should be anywhere between 14-13:1.
When you did the soap test.....how much pressure did you apply? You want to try and simulate actual running conditions as close as you can anyway. I know you said you replaced the upper intake gasket......did you get under the car and soap up the lower? It's a pain in the ass to see but they have a tendency to leak.
I also don't understand how an oil feed line can leak into the compressor.......it can only happen internally if the tubo is in need of freshening up.
Dumb questions but .....do you have the vac line for BOV refrenced from the intake side of the TB? Not sure if yours is adjustable or set spring pressure ..... Is it possible you have the wrong?
Interesting...the tbird-cougar is different? I've always seen the mustangs either to the back of the head or the rear lower intake stud ( mine). The Turbocoupe has it on the turbo compressor housing. I've never seen it paired up with the braided cable to the firewall.
You have the right idea except the dial is for advance. You can either set it to 14 then line up zero on the balancer or leave the dial at zero and use it like your old light.
