Last post by jcassity -
I was really disappointed in how ford mounted the computer power relay. Its location being difficult to get to is an understatement. I am considering lowering it downward and over to an area that would put it basically behind the glove box.
meaning,, you open said glove box then push in the tab of the clove box so it swings completely down. now when you look at your hvac enclosure, to the right there would reside the power relay.
thoughts?
tid bit of random knowledge her in case anyone out there needs to know............................................... *** IF *** you have a ford engine with a CFI fuel injection system.... your EEC power relay is unique unto itself. it is not by any stretch a mirror of what you would know of as a standard relay. more specifically, if your engine has an IDLE SPEED Control Motor, mounted to the side of your CFI, the proper relay for your car would be one that has a time delay built into the low current side / coil side of the relay offering a time delay when you turn your ign sw "OFF". during power down, the eec power relay stays energizd for a couple seconds to respot / re-position the nose of the ISC motor for your next startup. once this eec command is complete, the eec power relay will power down.,,, actually after a couple seconds it will power down. All im saying here is that the eec power relay has a power down time delay built into it just for the sake of properly operating the ISC motor controller.
I swapped in a 5.0L sefi into an originally built 3.8L CFI coug, i was able to use a standard relay for this application and so would anyone else who *does not* have an ISC motor controller typically only equipped on CFI application engines by ford.
Last post by Ductape91 -
Stopped by the garage today before i went to work, actually a few days ago also to take it out, to replace the alternator. Easy enough job with just a 7/16, 9/16, 5/8 sockets and 15mm wrench and 5/16 socket for the tensioner.
Pulled the old one out and took a pic so i can remember where the wires go.
Inspecting the alternator charging harness, wires looks good no hot spots or corrosion on the connectors. A real shame that these connectors are not reproduced by anybody.
Old and new(nos rebuilt actually). I had to drag it to work yesterday to remove the pulley since i cant find my impact anywhere.
And new one ready to go in.
The old one has alot of forward/back play in it, definately enough to make the belt jump. Rebuildable so im going to drag it to work and take it apart and see where the play came from.
Last post by Mikey97D -
January 26th I said good-bye to big blue. That was my favorite truck so far.
I got a '21 F150 Powerboost. Hard to find a used Powerboost with 6.5' bed, but I found this one with 41k miles. It has the Max Tow package and the 7.2kW connection in the bed. Should be really useful for the pulling the tow behind camper and boondocking.
Life and winter has hampered progress, but here's where we sit at the moment.
In the bay with the 2015-17 intake.
All with the hood closed.
I went to a 96-04 Kmember, as I needed a little more drop under the oil pan. Still needed to clearance the back of the Kmember to get the pan down and foreward.
I have about 1/4" between the oil pan and the rack, but as you can see, the pan is still tucked up under the K-member
Right now I'm sorting out motor mounts. I have a couple ideas on what I want to do, but we'll see which one pans out. Ironically, I may wind up welding the factory mount pads back on, even if they're in a slightly different location.
The only real clearance issue is the u-joint on the steering shaft with the DS exhaust manifold. I think I can make it work OK with a little engine placement, a spendy steering shaft, and some clearancing (meaning grinding).
Last post by 88BlueBird -
Hi, I'm looking for the bolt-on factory floor pan brace shown in the picture below. It's a curved brace that was on 87-88 dual exhaust T-bird or Cougar. Can pay with PayPal or whatever is convenient. Thanks!
