Does anyone know of a source for replacement lumbar bladders? I like having the use of the lumbar support but mine recently started to leak. Thanks, Rick
Wife and I drove out to Hamilton Ohio two weeks ago to pick up our new toy. Got 20 mpg on the way out empty, 11.5 on the way home towing. Covered a little over 1700 miles round trip. Drove out in one day, took three days coming home with overnight stops in Mercer PA and Plattekill NY.
Does the EATC head unit contain some kind of battery? Whenever my car sits for a couple of days, the temperature setting reverts back to 75 degrees. If it's only been a day or so, the temperature is where it was when I shut the car off. I have replaced the unit once already because of this. Also, on occasion when making changes in the temperature or where I want to direct the airflow output, it goes haywire and the display flashes and you have no control over the temperature; after the car has been shut off for a while, it resets itself to normal functionality.
WOO HOO! CHAMPS AGAIN, 3 times in a ten year span. I've been a suffering fan since the early sixties (that's right, I'm an old fart). Finally enjoying it in my old age. What a turn around from last year.
I just negotiated a purchase of parts from Mike and it went very smooth, shipped when he said he would, provided tracking number, well packaged etc. Thanks!
Hi: I need the plastic chrome trim piece that goes under the end of the door pull strap. I'll take more than one if you have them to spare. Thanks, Rick
Hi all: I've reluctantly decided to sell my 88 "Super Coupe". Here are the particulars:
ENGINE: 5.0, VORTECH S-TRIM POLISHED SUPERCHARGER PRODUCING 10-11 POUNDS OF BOOST, FORGED FLAT TOP PISTONS NOTCHED FOR VALVE CLEARANCE, EDELBROCK PERFORMER ALUMINUM HEADS WITH O-RING HEAD GASKETS, EDELBROCK PERFORMER II POLISHED UPPER AND LOWER INTAKES, PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS POLISHED 75 MM THROTTLE BODY, COMP CAMS 1.6 STUD MOUNT ROLLER ROCKERS,HARDENED PUSH RODS WITH GUIDE PLATES, ARP HEAD STUDS, FRPP F303 BLOWER GRIND CAM, DOUBLE ROLLER TIMING CHAIN, ANDERSON FORD POWER PIPE, LIGHTNING MASS AIR METER, FRPP 42LB FUEL INJECTORS, WINDAGE TRAY, MELLING HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP, EDELBROCK HIGH FLOW WATER PUMP, HIGH FLOW ALUMINUM RADIATOR, WALBRO 255 LITER/HOUR HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP, ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, MSD 6AL IGNITION BOX WITH BLASTER COIL, CUSTOM COMPUTER AND FUEL INJECTOR HARNESSES FROM WINDSOR-FOX PERFORMANCE ENGINEERING, ’93 COBRA COMPUTER WITH SCT CHIP & TUNE BY KARL’S EAST COAST SPEED, MAC SHORT TUBE HEADERS, HIGH FLOW CAT H-PIPE, NEW FLOWPATH LERS. 446 REAR WHEEL HORSEPOWER, 409 REAR WHEEL TORQUE.
SUSPENSION: LOWERED WITH KONI SPORT SPRINGS, KONI ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS AND STRUTS, MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS CASTER CAMBER PLATES, MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS, BOXED UPPER CONTROL ARMS, SUBFRAME CONNECTORS, 5 LUG CONVERSION WITH 13” COBRA FRONT BRAKES, REAR DISC BRAKES FROM ’94 UP MUSTANG, 17” X 8” COBRA WHEELS (FROM 1997).
OTHER: 5 SPEED, KING COBRA CLUTCH, 3.73 REAR AXLE RATIO, FRPP CLUTCH QUADRANT, FIREWALL ADJUSTER, STEEDA TRI-AX SHIFTER, MACH 1 CHIN SPOILER, DUAL 8 WAY POWER SEATS, A/C, P/S, P/B, P/W, PDL, MOON ROOF, POWER ANTENNA, CRACK FREE DASH, NEW REAR QUARTER WINDOWS, ALL FRONT LIGHTS ARE NEW, SEQUENTIAL TAIL LIGHTS.
EXTERIOR IS SILVER IN VERY GOOD CONDITION, A FEW SMALL IMPERFECTIONS. INTERIOR IS RED (CLOTH) IN EXCELLANT CONDITION. GARAGE KEPT MOST OF ITS LIFE. I'M ONLY SELLING BECAUSE I BOUGHT A NEW TOY AND DON'T HAVE TIME TO ENJOY IT.
I have a weird problem that I'm having a problem diagnosing. I started my Bird and the starter motor continued to crank after releasing the key (which did return to the ON position as normal). I pulled the wire off the S terminal and it still was cranking, so I pulled the negative cable off the battery. I tested the solenoid for continuity and it was indicatating that the contact was bridging the two studs. So I went and bought a new Ford solenoid ($40) and installed that. Same results, starter continued to crank after the engine was running. I was able to get the solenoid contact freed up by gently tapping on the end of the studs and then I tried putting a test light on the starter output lug (I removed the cable going to the starter) of the solenoid and I cycled the ignition switch through the ON/START cycle several times and the test light indicated everything was working properly. I then reconnected the starter cable to the solenoid, try starting again and same results, starter continues to crank. Next I pull the starter out and bring it to the local starter/alternator shop and have the guy bench test it and he ended up rebuilding it, new bendix drive etc. I put it back in the car and tested it by putting the ignition to the ON position and jumping from the battery side of the solenoid to the S terminal and the car started and the starter stopped cranking when I removed the jumper. I then reconnect the wire to the S terminal and try starting the car in the normal fashion and the same thing happens again!!!! Something is keeping the solenoid coil energized to the point that the contact welds itself to the two solenoid lugs. Next up, I borrow a starter and solenoid (both Ford parts) from a 70's vintage car. I remove the starter feed cable (from my installed rebuilt starter) at the starter end and pull back enough cable to reach the borrowed starter whch I have mounted to a board sitting on the floor of the garage. I cycle the ignition switch several times and the borrowed starter cycles fine. OK, now I pull my rebuilt starter out of the car and mount it to the board sitting on the floor and it cycles fine. I put the rebuilt starter back in the car and again, the solenoid gets in the stuck condition. Now I'm getting PO'd. I figure I'll try the old borrowed solenoid even though this is the old style which has two studs, I know which one is the S terminal. Anyway, I put the borrowed solenoid in the car and everything works fine!!!! I figured the new solenoid was probably the culprit so I go buy another new Ford solenoid (another $40) and put it in. This one does the same thing!!!! I put the borrowed one back in and it works fine. Any ideas other than using the 35+ year old solenoid? Thanks, Rick
