Skip to main content ↑ ↓

Topics

This section allows you to view all Topics made by this member. Note that you can only see Topics made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - marianadeeps

2
Engine Tech / A9p, a9l, a9m?
Went the junkyard today and found an '89 Mustang that still had the computer in it -- turns out they had just put the car in the lot yesterday.  I have an AOD and this was a manual Mustang.  The ECU was an A9M.  Scanning the Mustang forums I found one article that says that an A9M was for manual convertibles while the A9L is for notch and hatch.    Not sure why convertibles would need to be any different.  Apparently there is very little difference between the two.    So my question is, can I use this A9M for my bird with an AOD?  On the Mustang forums, it says that the mustang O2 harnesses are different (manual vs AOD) and you'll fry your O2 signal rtn if you do that.  Is that also a problem on our cars?
3
Engine Tech / Engine died on freeway -- ECU?
Background -- the engine was hesitating a bit the last couple of months (I was trying different things to troubleshoot) usually when warmed up and under load i.e. accelerating from low rpms.  It always runs well on the freeway.  Today it just died all of sudden while driving 70 mph on the freeway.  I thought maybe it was my fuel pump because when I turn the key to run, the fuel pump just runs continuously.  When I got it home, I checked the schrader valve while the pump was running and gas came spraying out.  Pulling codes no longer works when connecting the proper jumper and the car will not start.    I found this comment on the forum that does describe my situation (except my car won't run at all).  Does this mean my ECU (A9P) is blown?  Is there a way to get it out of LOS?  Thanks in advance!

You said the pump runs continuously when you try to pull codes.
Does it also run continuously with the ignition in RUN without the STI grounded?
It should shut off after a second or two when the EEC senses that the engine is not running.
The pump running continuously can mean the software in the EEC is not running and the EEC has gone into a hardware only mode called LOS (Limited Output Strategy)
This means the EEC cannot look at any of the input sensors. The TFI goes to base timing (just like the SPOUT being unplugged) and the injectors are pulsed at a fixed pulse with.
It is supposed to be able to run like this to 'Limp Home" but not very well. It will run rich at low RPM. Does it smell like it's flooding?
4
Engine Tech / Bad lifter?
I had a small rattling noise under my valve cover (driver side by the firewall).  I though the exhaust or intake rocker arm could probably stand some adjustment.  After I had gotten the intake valve up all the way, I was able to move the push rod slightly up and down so that it clicked.  I adjusted the rocker arm for zero lash, tightened the locking screw.  Just after doing that, found that I could still move the the push rod up and down the same as before.  I adjusted again and tightened.  Same thing again.  I could move the the push rod slightly.  I ended up doing that 5 or 6 times.  Then moved on to the exhaust rocker arm.  That had less play but I tightened up anyway.  Checked some of the others but none had any play like that one.  I buttoned up the valve cover and replaced the intake etc....    Started the car and it idled much rougher than before.  I can still here the small rattling noise just has it had been before I adjusted it. 
Do you think the lifter is bad and I just tightened the rocker arm too much causing the valve to stay open or something?  The car has 160K on it and I never changed out the original lifters although the rest of the valve train has only 30K on it.  I did notice that when I twisted the push rod around (like they tell you to do when adjusting the lash), it would get stiff and then easy -- possibly slightly bent?  The push rods are relatively new and the hardened type.    I'm kicking myself for not changing out the lifters when I had it all apart installing the heads!    Anyone have any experience with this?
5
Engine Tech / zero oil pressure scare
I started my car yesterday and it started beeping, digital dash oil icon flashing and my add-on oil gauge reading zero.  It took me 5 - 10 seconds of shock to realize the engine was running with no oil pressure and I turned it off.  After a night of researching how to install a new oil pump and other ideas,  I started the car this AM and back to normal.  I've had this car six years and have never seen that before.  Just wondering if it's a fluke or an indicator of a disaster waiting to happen.  Anybody seen this before?
7
Body/Appearance/Interior / Trunk alignment question
Has anyone done a trunk alignment?  My trunk seems to be slightly skewed to one side/crooked and pushed to rear 1/4" or so.  It also latches lower than the rear panels. 

Another question,  what are folks doing to replace or repair the cardboard inside top cover that hides the rear speakers.  I've got bolts with big washers where the plastic push-tabs used to be but the cardboard is ripping all the way to the end.  The junkyard cars are in even worse shape or missing.
8
Engine Tech / SCT 4 bank eliminator chip question
Hey guys,

Has anyone used one of these from American Muscle/Bama Tunes?  I purchased one for the bird, gave them my build specs and installed it.  They give you three tunes,  87 octane, 91 octane (performance tune) and a 93 octane (racing tune) -- they also let you select your stock tune.  I'm not sure what all they do but timing changes are definitely part of it.    All three tunes cause my check engine light to eventually turn on -- it doesn't happen with the stock tune. 
The codes are 34, 41 and 91.  34 is something with the EGR but 41 and 91 are passenger and driver lean conditions.  I called Bama but they don't think it's related to their tunes lol.  It does seem like there is a bit more power when I run with their tunes (definitely idle RPM is increased) but I don't want to drive with the check engine light on.  Any ideas what might be happening or did I just waste $260? 

Thanks
9
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / JET PCM performance module for stock 1988 T-Brid/Cougar
Hey guys, 

I have a JET PCM performance chip for the stock T-Bird/Cougar ECU.  The PO 'donated' the car to the local wrecking yard but gave me first dibs at parts.  He didn't know it was installed.  It is part # 78801.  Here is the link from Summit.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JET-78801/

I can't tell you what kind of performance gains these chips provide -- I don't have any experience with them, but maybe it will get you a bit out of the 155 HP blues with very little work.  It just installs on the J3 connector of the stock ECU.  I think you have to clean the plastic off of the contacts first to make sure it gets a good electrical connection  (I only know this because I looked at the SCT chip install video).  On Summit it sells for $250 -- I'll let this go for $100.
10
Engine Tech / Benefit of replacing the stock fuel pressure regulator
Are there performance gains to be made by replacing the stock regulator with an aftermarket adjustable?  Or is that just hype.  I don't think there's anything wrong with my stock one but if with the bigger fuel pump and injectors,  do I need a better regulator? 

Thanks.
11
Engine Tech / Need some advice on aftermarket intakes
Well my thermostat stuck open.  Easy fix.  When I tried to get the lower bolt out, it broke off in the intake (Exploder lower).  With the water pump in the way, I can't drill it out and re-tap.  Is this my opportunity to look into an aftermarket intake?  Am I going to see any HP difference between the Exploder and say a Typhoon?  It looks like i have to pull it all out again anyway.  Sigh.
12
Electrical Tech / Gauges -- water and oil senders question
Hey guys,

I would like to install a regular set of after market gauges (oil, water and volts) in the little space above the radio.  I have the all digital dash.  I would like to get these gauges working while not sacrificing the digital gauges.  The senders don't seem compatible.  I measured the voltage with car running for the stock oil pressure gauge and it's like .01 volts.  When I hook it up to my buttstuffog gauge,  it reads a very low pressure.  I think the gauges I bought are 0-5 V.  The water pressure sender looks pretty different than the stock one as well. 

So my question is,  is there a way to run them both and how do I do it?  Would 'tee' fittings work for both oil and water?  Is there enough room? 

thanks!
13
Electrical Tech / environmental control temperature digits blinking
I found just one other thread on this and it describes my problem but not a real solution.  One idea was to make sure the temperature sensor in the dash was unclogged and the other talked about the AC.  My AC is there but doesn't work (I need some R-12) so I don't turn it on.  It just started last blinking last week.  Has anyone else seen this?  Is it a sign of an issue or should I just ignore it -- the rest of the controls seem to work fine.
14
Engine Tech / 19/24 lb MAF?
Hi guys,

I've finally completed my MAF conversion yesterday. I had one of those OEM 70mm '94 TBird SC meters and (according to the stangnet website) found a sensor from a '93 Lincoln Towncar in the junkyard.  It's the F2VF-12B579-A1A (not -AA).    I know you're not supposed to mix and match but apparently these work together.  In any case,  everything worked and the conversion fixed my last issue which was a slight lugging at lowest throttle.  Now it is very smooth. 

The question is,  on EBAY,  they advertise these meters with the  F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor as 19/24 lb MAF.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/70mm-mass-air-flow-94-95-Mustang-GT-Cobra-19-24lb-MAF-/281480716890?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41898ee25a&vxp=mtr



What does that mean?  the sensor is the same as mine (F2VF-12B579-A1A)  and the meter is the same (although without the ) as the SC.  Does that mean that I can run 24lb injectors without changing anything?    or is that bull pucky?
15
Engine Tech / low end power disappeared?
Well I finally finished my SO to HO conversion.  Explorer intake, TW heads, HO cam, 19# injectors and a DA1 (in a pear tree).    The engine runs and has much more power at high rpms but it's very soggy at low rpms.  Even hesitates a little bit. I can't spin the tires from a stop.

Too much air or too little?  I still have the SO fuel pump but I would think that fuel starvation wouldn't happen at low rpms.    One interesting thing is that prior to my conversion, I ran with the IAC disconnected because it would throw itself into a high idle at random times even when warm.  Without the IAC it worked perfectly (except when cold, I had to keep it going).  Now it surges a little at idle and if I unplug the IAC, it dies immediately.   

Any ideas?  Thanks in advance.