WOW, what a fight! Just finished today, Tear down on GT40 Explorer engine, swap a 90 Stock HO cam, FRPP oil pump, new oil pan, new double roller set (would you believe the GT40 motor had a regular chain?), build up and install. Whew! Then I got to pull the front cover, chase a pump shaft, put it back together, fight with a thermostat that slipped down during the build (causing a leak), then when things looked good, I had all the older techs in the shop help me track down a low vac/rich mix problem that ended up being a wrong EGR plate gasket (I used a 96 motor to keep internal EGR). All said and done; 4 days, 1100 bucks including the core (which I may not cash in) and a dump truck full of frustration. Goes like stink, though, and most importantly, keeps oil pressure at 55-60 psi all the time, AND I don't smell burnt coolant in the exhaust, OR hear any knocking or tapping!
That's really not what I'm after. If I ever take my car to the strip, it only going to be as a means of validation. This is a street car, if I ever get it involved in any kind of racing, it will be autocross.
I picked my car up with a toasted AOD, and the auto trans guy in my shop and I (the man is a Ford Senior Master, and a genius) transplanted most of a 4R70W stack into it and left the AOD valve body alone. I've effectively installed the old wide ratio kit and added at least 1 clutch and 1 steel to every clutch pack, and upgraded to steel parts in place of cast iron and uped the OD band to 2 inches. I've been running it for 4 months and I love it. AOD cores are cheap, and if you've already got a 4R70W, I'd go that way. I love mine. With some fill rate mods in the VB, I should be good for 450 HP. Now on to the halfway burnt HO engine...
Update, Cirspoogestances unforeseen have caused me to revise. I picked up a 120k 96 GT40 (non P headed) motor from an Explorer. I'll get to the other mods when I can, but I've got to keep it drive-able for now, so I'm going to swap in the HO cam from my old engine, and run it for now. It's kind of funny how a loose motor can go from 'ok for now' to scary so fast. I'm hoping to open the exhaust up in a month or so, but for now, that's all I have to work with. I had to have a motor shipped in from across the state, the guy at the yard tells me, "the 96 and 97 motors go out about as fast as they come in" and "the Mustang guys grab them up like they were free candy". Figures.
Aerocoupe, while I'm not sure I'll get there with 24#'s, I'm using it as a starting point. It's almost nothing to swap out 36# or 42# injectors later (although it's almost a ludicrous statement to say that I'd need that much fuel). As for my target, I'm talking flywheel HP and the exhaust isn't that small. 1 5/8 headers in front of 2 1/2 duals isn't small, and I don't buy into the idea that I need solid lifters or that I can't get there below 6000 rpm. So I'll tell you what, I'll build it, take a picture, and scan my RWHP dyno sheet, and post my drivetrain loss correction calculation. #challengeaccepted
I had planned to do port matching throughout the inlet/outlet tract, as well as some slightly more ambitious porting in the heads. The Y heads feature smaller ports than the X heads, but I talked to a place that's local for me, and they reckon, that i should be able to get to 185cc and 75cc on the intake and exhaust ports, respectively. I've been getting a lot of recommendations to have the exhaust valves enlarged to 1.6" as 302's are crazy about more exhaust (hence the tfs s1 cam with higher lift and longer duration on exhaust) I was planning to mill also, but considering I'm making a piston change, some have recommended against it. Like thunderjet, I've got some 24# injectors that I'll be using unless I install them and have problems leaning out. But for me, with this, less is more. I'm looking for OE like driveability, 340 to 375HP at around 5 or 5.5k. And where possible I like the idea of running the parts I get a discount on. But I think I've decided on a 306. The 357 had a definite torque advantage, but with the 306, I should be getting at least 300lb-ft anywhere my torque converter will take me, and on up to the 375 -395 range.
Update, the heads aren't GT40X, they're GT40 M-6049-Y303's and according to the spec sheets of both, the Y303's out flow the X heads by a small amount on intake, but by like 10 percent on the exhaust.
I found this in the left behind junk about 10 years ago while I was moving into a new bay at a new job. I want to stick it to my trunk if I like where it's from. Problem is, I can't seem to trace it to what year T-Bird it came from, and I don't want to feel like an idiot after I find out its from a cycle or a lawn tractor or something stupid like that.
Thanks guys, I'm loving all the advice, as a point of clarification, I'm sticking with the 64cc GT40X. I'm getting them brand new and assembled from my parts dept for $500 (for the pair), which means the price is right. They will be going for some milling, and I'll be porting them a bit. However, based on the nearly unanimous ire for letter cams, I've decided to run a TFS stage 1 221/225. I hope you'll forgive me for being a bit naive. I, working in a Ford service department, tend to look close to home for parts. Also, I believe the solution for the header problem, should I build a 351, would be these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BBK-1511/ If anybody has used them, I'd like to know what you think.
Later this summer I'm putting together an engine for my T-Bird, and I'm undecided on a few points, I'm wondering who can draw on their experience and lend a hand. Parts I am decided on: 64cc GT40X heads E303 cam Explorer upper w/internal EGR Requisite MAF conversion 1 5/8 unequal length shorties 2 1/2 H-pipe (mine is 2") 2 1/2 cat-back
Undecided: Short block -rebuild my HO, or get a late model 351 and rebuild it instead Lower intake -pretty much goes with the short block choice, Explorer lower or Lightning lower Timing set -stock or something else Oiling -do I want a high volume/pressure pump?
Any good input is appreciated, I've built all manner of other engines, but never a Windsor motor. I'm making my estimate at 300 HP in the HO or 340-345 HP with the 351.
I'd really go with the full size and just carry some of the tools in the back seat or something. You don't want to put a dummy spare on an axle with a LSD, you just don't. And who wants to move a front tire to the back and put the dummy up front? On the side of the road, no less. Here, put the full size outside down, and fill it with your stuff, then, put more of your stuff where the dummy would go in the quarter well. If I'm thinking of that correctly, you may even GAIN storage space from the quarter well. Honestly, Magazines shoot lots of pics on PT, you don't want to be the guy in the background of a shot with a dummy spare on, limping to the next town while everybody else blasts down the highway without you. And that's another thing, Who wants to end up limited to 50mph on Power Tour. Put your full size (matching wheel) spare on, and look like the guy who came prepared. You'll be known as a true road warrior when you whip out your full size.
